Re: [bolger] Re: Glue/Epoxy - building a Teal
Lincoln,
Your right! Also Larry at RAKA is always available to answer questions. I you figure out the cost per ounce for titebond vs Raka you find very little saved. Plus with rake their are many additives to make us look like pros and save us work and time. Epoxy is 100% solids...even the hardener. At 10mills is vitually waterproof (not even polyester is that).
Use tightbond for its intented purpose (in my opinion that would be fine woodworking and joiunery).
Also, I have heard recently of well intentioned folk taking time to build nice designs and then just paint them. Somebody last week in fact had a leaking floor in his painted boat. I think that you'd be much happier after spending valuable time building building if you would protect your work with fiberglass sheathing. Once again compare cost per once of paint vs epoxy and you'll find it worth going all the way. Raka has inexpensive cloth and tape.
Wish you the best,
Don
Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@...> wrote:
Don't use polyester, use epoxy. I've had very good luck with Raka epoxy
from www.raka.com and it's a lot cheaper than West.
Look around at the links from www.apci.net/~michalak for various essays
on building including one on taping. Also, if you can find System 3 (or
is that System Three) on the web, you might try getting their epoxy book.
Other people say good things about Titebond II but I haven't dared to
mess with it yet in boatbuilding.
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Your right! Also Larry at RAKA is always available to answer questions. I you figure out the cost per ounce for titebond vs Raka you find very little saved. Plus with rake their are many additives to make us look like pros and save us work and time. Epoxy is 100% solids...even the hardener. At 10mills is vitually waterproof (not even polyester is that).
Use tightbond for its intented purpose (in my opinion that would be fine woodworking and joiunery).
Also, I have heard recently of well intentioned folk taking time to build nice designs and then just paint them. Somebody last week in fact had a leaking floor in his painted boat. I think that you'd be much happier after spending valuable time building building if you would protect your work with fiberglass sheathing. Once again compare cost per once of paint vs epoxy and you'll find it worth going all the way. Raka has inexpensive cloth and tape.
Wish you the best,
Don
Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@...> wrote:
Don't use polyester, use epoxy. I've had very good luck with Raka epoxy
from www.raka.com and it's a lot cheaper than West.
Look around at the links from www.apci.net/~michalak for various essays
on building including one on taping. Also, if you can find System 3 (or
is that System Three) on the web, you might try getting their epoxy book.
Other people say good things about Titebond II but I haven't dared to
mess with it yet in boatbuilding.
>Chris wrote:Bolger rules!!!
>snip Is there a less expensive alternative that
>will do the job? Is there anywhere on the web that
>explains "fiberglass taping 101?"
>snip?
>Also, I used Titebond II and nails for the side butt straps,
>centerline frame, stem, and stern. Does anyone have experience
>using Titebond II, should this be adequate?
>
>Any assistance is appreciated,
>Chris
>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
All true, but tape on the outside plywood edges would make for a more
durable boat, and taped joints instead of chine logs would make it lighter.
durable boat, and taped joints instead of chine logs would make it lighter.
>Bruce Hallman wrote:
>
>Mail order epoxy can be much
>cheaper. You have choices.
>
>The one I like and buy from
>exclusively is www.Raka.com
>
>Teal, with it's chine logs,
>doesn't require taped seams.
>snip
>
Don't use polyester, use epoxy. I've had very good luck with Raka epoxy
from www.raka.com and it's a lot cheaper than West.
Look around at the links from www.apci.net/~michalak for various essays
on building including one on taping. Also, if you can find System 3 (or
is that System Three) on the web, you might try getting their epoxy book.
Other people say good things about Titebond II but I haven't dared to
mess with it yet in boatbuilding.
from www.raka.com and it's a lot cheaper than West.
Look around at the links from www.apci.net/~michalak for various essays
on building including one on taping. Also, if you can find System 3 (or
is that System Three) on the web, you might try getting their epoxy book.
Other people say good things about Titebond II but I haven't dared to
mess with it yet in boatbuilding.
>Chris wrote:
>snip Is there a less expensive alternative that
>will do the job? Is there anywhere on the web that
>explains "fiberglass taping 101?"
>snip?
>Also, I used Titebond II and nails for the side butt straps,
>centerline frame, stem, and stern. Does anyone have experience
>using Titebond II, should this be adequate?
>
>Any assistance is appreciated,
>Chris
>
Chris --
Take a look at U.S. Composites epoxy. It's even less expensive than
Raka.
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html
All best,
Garth
(Just bought 13.3 gallons from them for Cormorant)
PS While I'm posting that, I thought I'd pass along the amusing
news that my credit card company put my card on hold. They thought
someone had stolen it and was making fraudulent charges -- all this
lumber and fiberglass and epoxy in the space of a week or so, bought
by a cheapskate guy who usually has a zero balance and hardly any
purchases. I explained to the woman at the credit card company that I
was BUILDING A BIG BOAT and that's why I was spending so wildly. She
wasn't impressed, but she did reactivate my card. . .
Take a look at U.S. Composites epoxy. It's even less expensive than
Raka.
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html
All best,
Garth
(Just bought 13.3 gallons from them for Cormorant)
PS While I'm posting that, I thought I'd pass along the amusing
news that my credit card company put my card on hold. They thought
someone had stolen it and was making fraudulent charges -- all this
lumber and fiberglass and epoxy in the space of a week or so, bought
by a cheapskate guy who usually has a zero balance and hardly any
purchases. I explained to the woman at the credit card company that I
was BUILDING A BIG BOAT and that's why I was spending so wildly. She
wasn't impressed, but she did reactivate my card. . .
>All true, but tape on the outside plywood edges would make for a moreA coat of epoxy & glass over the titebonded joints (at least the
>durable boat, and taped joints instead of chine logs would make it lighter.
butts) would go a long way to keeping them dry. Titebond II will
work, but if left wet for a long time will come apart... it is not
"waterproof" like epoxy or polyurethane glues which could sink to the
bottom of Lake Michigan and nothing would happen tot he joint.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
System Three at
http://www.systemthree.com/index.html
Go to literature and you can download the epoxy book, good basic stuff.
HJ
Lincoln Ross wrote:
http://www.systemthree.com/index.html
Go to literature and you can download the epoxy book, good basic stuff.
HJ
Lincoln Ross wrote:
>Don't use polyester, use epoxy. I've had very good luck with Raka epoxy
>from www.raka.com and it's a lot cheaper than West.
>Look around at the links from www.apci.net/~michalak for various essays
>on building including one on taping. Also, if you can find System 3 (or
>is that System Three) on the web, you might try getting their epoxy book.
>Other people say good things about Titebond II but I haven't dared to
>mess with it yet in boatbuilding.
>
>
>
>>Chris wrote:
>>snip Is there a less expensive alternative that
>>will do the job? Is there anywhere on the web that
>>explains "fiberglass taping 101?"
>>snip?
>>Also, I used Titebond II and nails for the side butt straps,
>>centerline frame, stem, and stern. Does anyone have experience
>>using Titebond II, should this be adequate?
>>
>>Any assistance is appreciated,
>>Chris
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>.
>
>
>
--- Lincoln Ross wrote:
with chine logs, and a
Yellow Leaf with taped seams;
I see that chine logs give
more protection to the chine.
[Though, taped seams would be
'durable enough' in my opinion.]
I agree with you, chine logs
add weight to the boat.
> a more durable boat,Having just built a Teal
with chine logs, and a
Yellow Leaf with taped seams;
I see that chine logs give
more protection to the chine.
[Though, taped seams would be
'durable enough' in my opinion.]
I agree with you, chine logs
add weight to the boat.
> I priced the ... epoxy andMail order epoxy can be much
> got a little sticker shock.
cheaper. You have choices.
The one I like and buy from
exclusively is www.Raka.com
Teal, with it's chine logs,
doesn't require taped seams.
Do be careful though, fitting
the seams and use lots of glue.
I started a Teal this weekend and have a few questions for those who
have been down this road.
I plan to use fiberglass tape on the seams. I have no fiberglassing
experience, but understand I will need to use a resin or epoxy to
wet and adhere the tape. I priced the West System Epoxy and got a
little sticker shock. Is there a less expensive alternative that
will do the job? Is there anywhere on the web that
explains "fiberglass taping 101?"
Also, I used Titebond II and nails for the side butt straps,
centerline frame, stem, and stern. Does anyone have experience
using Titebond II, should this be adequate?
Any assistance is appreciated,
Chris
have been down this road.
I plan to use fiberglass tape on the seams. I have no fiberglassing
experience, but understand I will need to use a resin or epoxy to
wet and adhere the tape. I priced the West System Epoxy and got a
little sticker shock. Is there a less expensive alternative that
will do the job? Is there anywhere on the web that
explains "fiberglass taping 101?"
Also, I used Titebond II and nails for the side butt straps,
centerline frame, stem, and stern. Does anyone have experience
using Titebond II, should this be adequate?
Any assistance is appreciated,
Chris