RE: [bolger] hp, hull, etc.

Generally speaking, my first impression that my 6 hp Seagull needs fuel is
when it simply quits, solving the 'engine off' issue. The tank is, I think,
designed to carry just enough fuel to last just past the point where you're
still wondering about capacity..



And regarding reliability, Seagulls are loud, smoky, leaky, rattling pieces
of pre-WWII technology; BUT... by the same token, they're so rat-simple that
it's easy work to put them right when something gets out of whack. Know
your engine, and have a source of parts (there's a fellow in Canada that's
worth knowing).



HJ, that must've been one helluva day!



David Romasco



-----Original Message-----
From: Harry James [mailto:welshman@...]
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2003 2:53 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] hp, hull, etc.



You want to shut the motor off before refueling, if you spill while it
is running it will catch fire, the residue from the fire extinguisher
you use to put the fire out will get in the fuel tank through the open
cap through which you were pouring the fuel when it caught fire. This
residue will make the engine quit just when a tug and barge wants to
share the small channel you were motoring down. I know all this for a fact.

HJ

> Otherwise, and
>this'll grab you, I'm sort of wonkers over Seagulls although haven't
>yet found one offered that is 6hp (about 56 lbs.). I presume one
>assumes a hunched position over the Seagull, continuously
>refueling.... That would be fun wouldn't it?
>
>
>
>






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
You want to shut the motor off before refueling, if you spill while it
is running it will catch fire, the residue from the fire extinguisher
you use to put the fire out will get in the fuel tank through the open
cap through which you were pouring the fuel when it caught fire. This
residue will make the engine quit just when a tug and barge wants to
share the small channel you were motoring down. I know all this for a fact.

HJ

> Otherwise, and
>this'll grab you, I'm sort of wonkers over Seagulls although haven't
>yet found one offered that is 6hp (about 56 lbs.). I presume one
>assumes a hunched position over the Seagull, continuously
>refueling.... That would be fun wouldn't it?
>
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dickb_bolger" <burnharch@h...> wrote:
> Responding to all on the o/b and the Chebacco (haven't figured out
> how to "reply"--must be a special skill missing here. I'm thinking
> of a used outboard, so it'll be a 2-cycle sort--and I think they
> weigh in at about 60+ lbs. Jamie is the first to like the short
> shaft, I recall that Bolger spoke for the longshaft and I suspect
> it'll work best in a seaway. No? The sort of prices I'm seeing on
> eBay (I'm peeking) is about US$350 to 450 for a mid-'80s o/b. These
> are Mercury, Johnson, something called Sailmaster. Otherwise, and
> this'll grab you, I'm sort of wonkers over Seagulls although haven't
> yet found one offered that is 6hp (about 56 lbs.). I presume one
> assumes a hunched position over the Seagull, continuously
> refueling.... That would be fun wouldn't it?



Personally, I don't like Seagulls; for one thing, it
is very possible for the lower unit to fall off and
sink while the engine is running, and yes I know that
for a fact.

Second problem is parts; I needed to find a banjo fittng
with a Whitworth thread in order to replace a missing fuel
line on one.

Third, they are inefficient even by two-stroke standards,
probably because there is no way to advance the ignition
timing as the throttle is advanced.

If you are going to look at engines from the '80s, I would
suggest looking at older engines from the early '70s or even
older, as they will have simple-to-maintain points-and-condenser
ignition, rather than expensive black boxes.

A fresh-water engine is, of course, preferable to a
salt-water engine.

Old outboards are rarely "worn-out," although they can
certainly suffer from neglect or abuse.

But few people ever go boating enough to wear-out an outboard
motor.


Max
The big question is: "Do you want to sail, or repair the motor. Most
Seagull owners have an afinity to the quirkiness of the motor. Yes,
it looks cool, but they definately have reliability issues. Stay
with a motor you can easily get parts on and that you can get fixed
locally. For me, it means Evinrude/Johnson/Merc. but may be
different where you live. A lot of J24 sailors use Nissan 5hp motors
due to their reliability and light weight (2 cycle models).
My 6Hp evinrude was made in 1990 and is a Sailmaster model with
the extra long shaft. It is very handy in a sloppy southwester in
Nantucket Sound. I am considering taking my 10hp Johnson long shaft
of the same vintage (currently on the back of Diablo) and building an
AS29 around her!

David Jost



something called Sailmaster. Otherwise, and
> this'll grab you, I'm sort of wonkers over Seagulls although
haven't
> yet found one offered that is 6hp (about 56 lbs.). I presume one
> assumes a hunched position over the Seagull, continuously
> refueling.... That would be fun wouldn't it?
Responding to all on the o/b and the Chebacco (haven't figured out
how to "reply"--must be a special skill missing here. I'm thinking
of a used outboard, so it'll be a 2-cycle sort--and I think they
weigh in at about 60+ lbs. Jamie is the first to like the short
shaft, I recall that Bolger spoke for the longshaft and I suspect
it'll work best in a seaway. No? The sort of prices I'm seeing on
eBay (I'm peeking) is about US$350 to 450 for a mid-'80s o/b. These
are Mercury, Johnson, something called Sailmaster. Otherwise, and
this'll grab you, I'm sort of wonkers over Seagulls although haven't
yet found one offered that is 6hp (about 56 lbs.). I presume one
assumes a hunched position over the Seagull, continuously
refueling.... That would be fun wouldn't it?