Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!
Sam Devlin describes something simiar. Sounds practical to me! Thanks.
Frank
Frank
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <lestat@b...> wrote:
> Frank,
> Mike is obviously the real "surgeon" in the gang and his
> experience is valuable.
> Just to add to the plywood joining ideas,I've used a number of
> times a thing I call the "Butt-Scarf". What this is esentially is a
> butt strap let into the panels you wish to join without the unsightly
> excrescence of the butt strap reminding you forever of what lays
> underneath.
> With the 1/2" side panels,you would/could router out 1/4" of the
> side panel to a width equal to the width of your intended butt strap
> which would be,of course,1/4" thick. Mix up a nice thick batch of
> epoxy after pre-coating the exposed landings and clamp the sucker
> together with clamps,srews or whatever works best for your
> situation.Screws work well and it is a breeze to later seal up the
> little screw holes.Done with attention to detail and some care,you'll
> have a hard time seeing where"it" is once painted over :-)
> Also,a whole lot quicker and"easier" to get right then a true
> scarf.
>
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "mikestockstill" <mkstocks@b...> wrote:
Mike is obviously the real "surgeon" in the gang and his
experience is valuable.
Just to add to the plywood joining ideas,I've used a number of
times a thing I call the "Butt-Scarf". What this is esentially is a
butt strap let into the panels you wish to join without the unsightly
excrescence of the butt strap reminding you forever of what lays
underneath.
With the 1/2" side panels,you would/could router out 1/4" of the
side panel to a width equal to the width of your intended butt strap
which would be,of course,1/4" thick. Mix up a nice thick batch of
epoxy after pre-coating the exposed landings and clamp the sucker
together with clamps,srews or whatever works best for your
situation.Screws work well and it is a breeze to later seal up the
little screw holes.Done with attention to detail and some care,you'll
have a hard time seeing where"it" is once painted over :-)
Also,a whole lot quicker and"easier" to get right then a true
scarf.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> Definitely go with butt blocks. The only thing I did that couldpass loosely has
> a scarf is the chine - note from the earlier link the 45 degreecut, and the bit of
> extra length of plywood I added to make the sheet longer. But foractually
> joining the new ply to the existing, I used what the plans calla "reinforcing
> strap. This is a long 3"x1"(2 layers of 1/2") piece that runsalong the upper
> horizontal edge of the ply side that remained after themidshipectomy. See
>thick.
>http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/frame_construction/
>
> Each end had also a vertical butt block - much wider, but not as
>Frank,
> Mike
Mike is obviously the real "surgeon" in the gang and his
experience is valuable.
Just to add to the plywood joining ideas,I've used a number of
times a thing I call the "Butt-Scarf". What this is esentially is a
butt strap let into the panels you wish to join without the unsightly
excrescence of the butt strap reminding you forever of what lays
underneath.
With the 1/2" side panels,you would/could router out 1/4" of the
side panel to a width equal to the width of your intended butt strap
which would be,of course,1/4" thick. Mix up a nice thick batch of
epoxy after pre-coating the exposed landings and clamp the sucker
together with clamps,srews or whatever works best for your
situation.Screws work well and it is a breeze to later seal up the
little screw holes.Done with attention to detail and some care,you'll
have a hard time seeing where"it" is once painted over :-)
Also,a whole lot quicker and"easier" to get right then a true
scarf.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Definitely go with butt blocks. The only thing I did that could pass loosely has
a scarf is the chine - note from the earlier link the 45 degree cut, and the bit of
extra length of plywood I added to make the sheet longer. But for actually
joining the new ply to the existing, I used what the plans call a "reinforcing
strap. This is a long 3"x1"(2 layers of 1/2") piece that runs along the upper
horizontal edge of the ply side that remained after the midshipectomy. See
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/frame_construction/
Each end had also a vertical butt block - much wider, but not as thick.
Mike
a scarf is the chine - note from the earlier link the 45 degree cut, and the bit of
extra length of plywood I added to make the sheet longer. But for actually
joining the new ply to the existing, I used what the plans call a "reinforcing
strap. This is a long 3"x1"(2 layers of 1/2") piece that runs along the upper
horizontal edge of the ply side that remained after the midshipectomy. See
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/frame_construction/
Each end had also a vertical butt block - much wider, but not as thick.
Mike
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
> Mike, how did you fasten your new plywood panels - scarfing or butt
> blocks?
I'd put butt blocks on the inside to hold everything together, and lay some glass over the joint on the outside, in order to fair
the joint smooth and invisible from the rest of the hull.
the joint smooth and invisible from the rest of the hull.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 12:39 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!
> Thanks Mike, Bruce and Richard! For the ideas *and* encouragement.
>
> ok - I'll summarize the idea:
>
> - Cut holes the sides
> - fix the chines and rebuild the wells
> - scarf in some new side pieces
>
> Sounds like a good plan to me. I only need to replace parts below the
> waterline (slightly above) so I'll be scarfing the timbers and
> exterior ply and using butt blocks for inboard sides of the bilgeboard
> wells.
>
> Mike, how did you fasten your new plywood panels - scarfing or butt
> blocks?
>
> Frank
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...> wrote:
> > I shouldn't be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull
> and make it near perfect, either.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@h...>
> > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:11 AM
> > Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!
> >
> >
> > > --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
> > > > Take a saw to the exterior hull,
> > >
> > > Oh yes, another reason to fix
> > > the off-center board wells from
> > > the exterior, is that if you were
> > > to try to gain access from the
> > > interior, you would need to move
> > > the *large* lead ballast bars
> > > hiding beneath the cabinets.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
> posts
> > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Thanks Mike, Bruce and Richard! For the ideas *and* encouragement.
ok - I'll summarize the idea:
- Cut holes the sides
- fix the chines and rebuild the wells
- scarf in some new side pieces
Sounds like a good plan to me. I only need to replace parts below the
waterline (slightly above) so I'll be scarfing the timbers and
exterior ply and using butt blocks for inboard sides of the bilgeboard
wells.
Mike, how did you fasten your new plywood panels - scarfing or butt
blocks?
Frank
ok - I'll summarize the idea:
- Cut holes the sides
- fix the chines and rebuild the wells
- scarf in some new side pieces
Sounds like a good plan to me. I only need to replace parts below the
waterline (slightly above) so I'll be scarfing the timbers and
exterior ply and using butt blocks for inboard sides of the bilgeboard
wells.
Mike, how did you fasten your new plywood panels - scarfing or butt
blocks?
Frank
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...> wrote:
> I shouldn't be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull
and make it near perfect, either.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@h...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:11 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!
>
>
> > --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
> > > Take a saw to the exterior hull,
> >
> > Oh yes, another reason to fix
> > the off-center board wells from
> > the exterior, is that if you were
> > to try to gain access from the
> > interior, you would need to move
> > the *large* lead ballast bars
> > hiding beneath the cabinets.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
I shouldn't be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull and make it near perfect, either.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!
> --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
> > Take a saw to the exterior hull,
>
> Oh yes, another reason to fix
> the off-center board wells from
> the exterior, is that if you were
> to try to gain access from the
> interior, you would need to move
> the *large* lead ballast bars
> hiding beneath the cabinets.
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
--- Bruce Hallman wrote:
the off-center board wells from
the exterior, is that if you were
to try to gain access from the
interior, you would need to move
the *large* lead ballast bars
hiding beneath the cabinets.
> Take a saw to the exterior hull,Oh yes, another reason to fix
the off-center board wells from
the exterior, is that if you were
to try to gain access from the
interior, you would need to move
the *large* lead ballast bars
hiding beneath the cabinets.
> Get a saw, cut out the bad stuff, and rescue yourI agree! After looking again at the
> boat! It doesn't have to look perfect
AS-29 drawings, the off-centerboard
wells could be totally rebuilt without
removing the interior cabinetry. Take a
saw to the exterior hull, rebuild the
wells and patch back the hull by lapping
on some plywood.
I the worse case, the boat could 'swell'
out another inch at that location, so what!
Hi Frank-
Let me offer the following perspective:
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/deconstruction/
I think your repair is small by comparison.
Get a saw, cut out the bad stuff, and rescue your boat! It doesn't have to look
perfect
either - it just needs to be safe and secure.
You will have this finished in time for your cruise.
Have at it!
Mike
Let me offer the following perspective:
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/deconstruction/
I think your repair is small by comparison.
Get a saw, cut out the bad stuff, and rescue your boat! It doesn't have to look
perfect
either - it just needs to be safe and secure.
You will have this finished in time for your cruise.
Have at it!
Mike
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
> It's a sad day for Alisa (my AS-29).
...snip...
>
> If you want to see pictures of what rot can do to your chine logs, visit:
>http://www.fsanmiguel.com/alisa/rot-9-28-03
>
> If you have some suggestions as to what I should do with Alisa, let me
> know.
>
> Frank
--- Frank San Miguel wrote:
layer of plywood to the sides,
then apply an external chine log,
and then tip the boat on its side
to add a layer of plywood to the
bottom.
I would also want to try the
George Buehler trick of using cheapo
'tar based' roofing patch compound
as the adhesive between the existing
plywood and the new plywood.
If you don't think tar is sticky
enough, do a test.
> It's a sad day for Alisa (my AS-29).I would fix it by adding a
layer of plywood to the sides,
then apply an external chine log,
and then tip the boat on its side
to add a layer of plywood to the
bottom.
I would also want to try the
George Buehler trick of using cheapo
'tar based' roofing patch compound
as the adhesive between the existing
plywood and the new plywood.
If you don't think tar is sticky
enough, do a test.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
With Fiberglass," by Allan H. Vaitses, copyright 1981 and 1989
by International Marine, you ought to have a look at it.
Mr Vaitses, a verteran boat builder, has "saved" many old
wooden boats with structural problems by covering them
with multiple layers of fiberglass mat and roving and
polyester resin.
He does not rely on the polyester resin to hold the fiberglass
shell to the boat, but rather mechanically fastens the first
layer or two to the hull by driving in throusands of staples
with an air-driven staple gun.
He then builds-up what amounts to a complete fiberglass
hull (not just a sheathing) over the existing hull.
Since the fiberglass is mechanically held by the staples, he
usually did not bother removing the existing paint from the
hull. And since he uses such a heavy glass laminate, the
condition of the wood underneath matters little, most of
the time.
The boat would be heavier, but since the size of the hull
is increased by the thickness of the glass, the boat may
not float any deeper in the water,
An author of several books on marine repair, maine surveying,
and also lofting, one has to take his method seriously.
The U.S. Coast Guard does; they specifically mention his
method, by name, in their NAVIC 7-95, which concerns the
inspection and repair of passenger-carrying wood boats:
http://www.uscg.mil/hq/g-m/nvic/7_95/n7-95.htm
If the rest of the boat is in such condition that the
investment in polyester resin and glass is warranted,
it is worth looking into.
Max
> It's a sad day for Alisa (my AS-29).If you have not seen the book, "Covering Wooden Boats
>
With Fiberglass," by Allan H. Vaitses, copyright 1981 and 1989
by International Marine, you ought to have a look at it.
Mr Vaitses, a verteran boat builder, has "saved" many old
wooden boats with structural problems by covering them
with multiple layers of fiberglass mat and roving and
polyester resin.
He does not rely on the polyester resin to hold the fiberglass
shell to the boat, but rather mechanically fastens the first
layer or two to the hull by driving in throusands of staples
with an air-driven staple gun.
He then builds-up what amounts to a complete fiberglass
hull (not just a sheathing) over the existing hull.
Since the fiberglass is mechanically held by the staples, he
usually did not bother removing the existing paint from the
hull. And since he uses such a heavy glass laminate, the
condition of the wood underneath matters little, most of
the time.
The boat would be heavier, but since the size of the hull
is increased by the thickness of the glass, the boat may
not float any deeper in the water,
An author of several books on marine repair, maine surveying,
and also lofting, one has to take his method seriously.
The U.S. Coast Guard does; they specifically mention his
method, by name, in their NAVIC 7-95, which concerns the
inspection and repair of passenger-carrying wood boats:
http://www.uscg.mil/hq/g-m/nvic/7_95/n7-95.htm
If the rest of the boat is in such condition that the
investment in polyester resin and glass is warranted,
it is worth looking into.
Max
Bummer!
I don't have any answers. Perhaps with some time to think things over you'll
figure out fixing her up won't be as bad or as hard as you think.
Do you think the epoxy encapsulation helped or hurt in your situation?
JB
I don't have any answers. Perhaps with some time to think things over you'll
figure out fixing her up won't be as bad or as hard as you think.
Do you think the epoxy encapsulation helped or hurt in your situation?
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 5:50 PM
Subject: [bolger] A sad day for Alisa
| It's a sad day for Alisa (my AS-29).
|
| I've spent the past few days laying on new sheathing along the opening
| of the bilgeboard trunks, hoping to eliminate the leaks. I was hoping
| to launch next weekend to get some October sailing in.
|
Once the shock wears off, you might consider jacking up the deck,
superstructure, etc. and putting a new hull under it. Maybe just at the
stage where it's turned over? Working with new clean lumber, doing a task
you've practiced once, being sure you've got it all ... The cost should be
a small fraction of the total investment you've made.
Just a thought.
Roger (the insensitive)
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
superstructure, etc. and putting a new hull under it. Maybe just at the
stage where it's turned over? Working with new clean lumber, doing a task
you've practiced once, being sure you've got it all ... The cost should be
a small fraction of the total investment you've made.
Just a thought.
Roger (the insensitive)
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@...>
>
> It's a sad day for Alisa (my AS-29).
>
> I've spent the past few days laying on new sheathing along the opening
> of the bilgeboard trunks, hoping to eliminate the leaks. I was hoping
> to launch next weekend to get some October sailing in.
>
> Then I decided to work inside the cabin. Earlier, I had noticed that
> the inside of the hull in the area along the bulkhead in between the
> aft cabin and the galley looked suspicious underneath some thick
> epoxy. I stuck a chisel in and found soft plywood at least 3/8" down.
> The epoxy had been hiding the problem. I excavated an area 6" x 7'
> (the entire beam of the boat). I was thinking "ok, calm down Frank.
> I can handle this." But then I noticed a crack in the port chine log
> just aft of the port bilgeboard case. I stuck a chisel in it and as
> soon as I penetrated the thick hard shell of epoxy, I found the chine
> log was almost entirely rotten.
>
> How did I miss such a major problem? Well I knew about most of
> Alisa's problems and knew how to fix them without too much effort, but
> the real problems were lurking under a hard crust of epoxy. I was
> over-confident that I could spot problems because I know how to build
> an AS-29. Naive. I was also wrong in thinking that repairs are
> similar to doing it the first time. That just isn't true. The
> repairs I've done on Alisa are really difficult because I don't have
> good access and the parts are dirty from paint, dirt, etc.
>
> I have no idea how to fix this problem without disassembling the
> entire galley, bulkhead and both bilgeboard cases. Probably also have
> to replace some or all of bottom. That's just too much work. As I
> mentioned in a prior post, we originally planned to take a 1 year
> family cruise on Alisa, but we postponed the trip and I put her up for
> sale last month. Now I'm not sure what to do, but I may just write
> her off as a total loss.
>
> If you want to see pictures of what rot can do to your chine logs, visit:
>http://www.fsanmiguel.com/alisa/rot-9-28-03
>
> If you have some suggestions as to what I should do with Alisa, let me
> know.
>
> Frank
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Frank,
Sorry to see the pics, very sad. Do you have room to work on her at home?
One approach would be to lay her on her side with the downward side evenly
supported. Strip off the bottom ply and the rout out the chine logs.
Laminate in new ones and then laminate on a new ply bottom. The hull would
have to be well supported so it wouldn't wrack with the bottom off. It would
be some work but not too complicated. Hate to see an AS-29 die!
Paul
Sorry to see the pics, very sad. Do you have room to work on her at home?
One approach would be to lay her on her side with the downward side evenly
supported. Strip off the bottom ply and the rout out the chine logs.
Laminate in new ones and then laminate on a new ply bottom. The hull would
have to be well supported so it wouldn't wrack with the bottom off. It would
be some work but not too complicated. Hate to see an AS-29 die!
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 5:50 PM
Subject: [bolger] A sad day for Alisa
> It's a sad day for Alisa (my AS-29).
>
> I've spent the past few days laying on new sheathing along the opening
> of the bilgeboard trunks, hoping to eliminate the leaks. I was hoping
> to launch next weekend to get some October sailing in.
>
> Then I decided to work inside the cabin. Earlier, I had noticed that
> the inside of the hull in the area along the bulkhead in between the
> aft cabin and the galley looked suspicious underneath some thick
> epoxy. I stuck a chisel in and found soft plywood at least 3/8" down.
> The epoxy had been hiding the problem. I excavated an area 6" x 7'
> (the entire beam of the boat). I was thinking "ok, calm down Frank.
> I can handle this." But then I noticed a crack in the port chine log
> just aft of the port bilgeboard case. I stuck a chisel in it and as
> soon as I penetrated the thick hard shell of epoxy, I found the chine
> log was almost entirely rotten.
>
> How did I miss such a major problem? Well I knew about most of
> Alisa's problems and knew how to fix them without too much effort, but
> the real problems were lurking under a hard crust of epoxy. I was
> over-confident that I could spot problems because I know how to build
> an AS-29. Naive. I was also wrong in thinking that repairs are
> similar to doing it the first time. That just isn't true. The
> repairs I've done on Alisa are really difficult because I don't have
> good access and the parts are dirty from paint, dirt, etc.
>
> I have no idea how to fix this problem without disassembling the
> entire galley, bulkhead and both bilgeboard cases. Probably also have
> to replace some or all of bottom. That's just too much work. As I
> mentioned in a prior post, we originally planned to take a 1 year
> family cruise on Alisa, but we postponed the trip and I put her up for
> sale last month. Now I'm not sure what to do, but I may just write
> her off as a total loss.
>
> If you want to see pictures of what rot can do to your chine logs, visit:
>http://www.fsanmiguel.com/alisa/rot-9-28-03
>
> If you have some suggestions as to what I should do with Alisa, let me
> know.
>
> Frank
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
It's a sad day for Alisa (my AS-29).
I've spent the past few days laying on new sheathing along the opening
of the bilgeboard trunks, hoping to eliminate the leaks. I was hoping
to launch next weekend to get some October sailing in.
Then I decided to work inside the cabin. Earlier, I had noticed that
the inside of the hull in the area along the bulkhead in between the
aft cabin and the galley looked suspicious underneath some thick
epoxy. I stuck a chisel in and found soft plywood at least 3/8" down.
The epoxy had been hiding the problem. I excavated an area 6" x 7'
(the entire beam of the boat). I was thinking "ok, calm down Frank.
I can handle this." But then I noticed a crack in the port chine log
just aft of the port bilgeboard case. I stuck a chisel in it and as
soon as I penetrated the thick hard shell of epoxy, I found the chine
log was almost entirely rotten.
How did I miss such a major problem? Well I knew about most of
Alisa's problems and knew how to fix them without too much effort, but
the real problems were lurking under a hard crust of epoxy. I was
over-confident that I could spot problems because I know how to build
an AS-29. Naive. I was also wrong in thinking that repairs are
similar to doing it the first time. That just isn't true. The
repairs I've done on Alisa are really difficult because I don't have
good access and the parts are dirty from paint, dirt, etc.
I have no idea how to fix this problem without disassembling the
entire galley, bulkhead and both bilgeboard cases. Probably also have
to replace some or all of bottom. That's just too much work. As I
mentioned in a prior post, we originally planned to take a 1 year
family cruise on Alisa, but we postponed the trip and I put her up for
sale last month. Now I'm not sure what to do, but I may just write
her off as a total loss.
If you want to see pictures of what rot can do to your chine logs, visit:
http://www.fsanmiguel.com/alisa/rot-9-28-03
If you have some suggestions as to what I should do with Alisa, let me
know.
Frank
I've spent the past few days laying on new sheathing along the opening
of the bilgeboard trunks, hoping to eliminate the leaks. I was hoping
to launch next weekend to get some October sailing in.
Then I decided to work inside the cabin. Earlier, I had noticed that
the inside of the hull in the area along the bulkhead in between the
aft cabin and the galley looked suspicious underneath some thick
epoxy. I stuck a chisel in and found soft plywood at least 3/8" down.
The epoxy had been hiding the problem. I excavated an area 6" x 7'
(the entire beam of the boat). I was thinking "ok, calm down Frank.
I can handle this." But then I noticed a crack in the port chine log
just aft of the port bilgeboard case. I stuck a chisel in it and as
soon as I penetrated the thick hard shell of epoxy, I found the chine
log was almost entirely rotten.
How did I miss such a major problem? Well I knew about most of
Alisa's problems and knew how to fix them without too much effort, but
the real problems were lurking under a hard crust of epoxy. I was
over-confident that I could spot problems because I know how to build
an AS-29. Naive. I was also wrong in thinking that repairs are
similar to doing it the first time. That just isn't true. The
repairs I've done on Alisa are really difficult because I don't have
good access and the parts are dirty from paint, dirt, etc.
I have no idea how to fix this problem without disassembling the
entire galley, bulkhead and both bilgeboard cases. Probably also have
to replace some or all of bottom. That's just too much work. As I
mentioned in a prior post, we originally planned to take a 1 year
family cruise on Alisa, but we postponed the trip and I put her up for
sale last month. Now I'm not sure what to do, but I may just write
her off as a total loss.
If you want to see pictures of what rot can do to your chine logs, visit:
http://www.fsanmiguel.com/alisa/rot-9-28-03
If you have some suggestions as to what I should do with Alisa, let me
know.
Frank