Re: [bolger] Re: A Man, A Plan, A Drill Press...
No slot and no screw in the chuck, so it must be a press-fit press.
More after this weekend (boat events to distract me from fiddling in
shop!)
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
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More after this weekend (boat events to distract me from fiddling in
shop!)
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
Morse and Jacobs tapers, which I usually confuse and get wrong, are
standards defined by the SAE and codified by the their successors. (Hey, we
didn't use them too often in designing computer systems.)
If you nest two cones, they either lock together or come apart easily
depending on the degree of taper, hence the concept of a "locking taper."
(assumes clean surfaces)
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
standards defined by the SAE and codified by the their successors. (Hey, we
didn't use them too often in designing computer systems.)
If you nest two cones, they either lock together or come apart easily
depending on the degree of taper, hence the concept of a "locking taper."
(assumes clean surfaces)
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "craig o'donnell" <dadadata@...>
> >IIRC the last Chinese press I looked
> >at had a standard Jacob taper
>
> Thanks guys. I'll try.
>
> What's a Jacob taper?
> --
> Craig O'Donnell
Paul,
I think you're talking about the industrial flavor drills with female Morse
taper in the quill. The cheapies often have a number 33 male on the end of
the quill. Since it's Chinese, anything is possible; e.g. it might be
screwed on like the hand drills are.
On my cheapie, I've had fair luck bashing the chuck to loosen it by putting
a drill bit (that fits tightly) into one of the chuck's holes and rapping
that. One wants to strike tangentially to loosen the chuck without bending
the quill. Ideally, one would put two pins in and buck one with a large
hammer while striking the other. Bending the quill is too easy, but it can
be fixed, sort of. Measure for bend by putting a Z of coat hanger in the
chuck and seeing if the outer tip sweeps the table at a uniform clearance
spacing. That's after you've made sure the table is perpendicular to the
quill's movement.
My drill press has a collar with holes for a spanner which is supposed to
lock a mortising attachment on. By unscrewing it, I applied a "removal"
force to the chuck. Several times now I've been surprised when locking
tapers released under light loads after being allowed to think about it for
a while. I wrestled with an MG steering wheel for an hour, went in the
house for coffee, and came back to find the wheel had popped off and was
laying in the front seat. Pressure from the horn button slip ring I guess.
The chuck is definitely replaceable. It would cost too much to make it as
part of the quill.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
I think you're talking about the industrial flavor drills with female Morse
taper in the quill. The cheapies often have a number 33 male on the end of
the quill. Since it's Chinese, anything is possible; e.g. it might be
screwed on like the hand drills are.
On my cheapie, I've had fair luck bashing the chuck to loosen it by putting
a drill bit (that fits tightly) into one of the chuck's holes and rapping
that. One wants to strike tangentially to loosen the chuck without bending
the quill. Ideally, one would put two pins in and buck one with a large
hammer while striking the other. Bending the quill is too easy, but it can
be fixed, sort of. Measure for bend by putting a Z of coat hanger in the
chuck and seeing if the outer tip sweeps the table at a uniform clearance
spacing. That's after you've made sure the table is perpendicular to the
quill's movement.
My drill press has a collar with holes for a spanner which is supposed to
lock a mortising attachment on. By unscrewing it, I applied a "removal"
force to the chuck. Several times now I've been surprised when locking
tapers released under light loads after being allowed to think about it for
a while. I wrestled with an MG steering wheel for an hour, went in the
house for coffee, and came back to find the wheel had popped off and was
laying in the front seat. Pressure from the horn button slip ring I guess.
The chuck is definitely replaceable. It would cost too much to make it as
part of the quill.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "pauldayau" <wattleweedooseeds@...>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, craig o'donnell <dadadata@f...> wrote:
> > sale. I have a "Central Machinery" (Chinese) benchtop drill press
> > among the assorted odd tools left by the previous owner.
> >
> > This would seem to be a 5 speed unit, I checked Harbor Freight and
> > this is not a current model (Harbor sells the "Central Machinery"
> > brand.
> >
> > Problem is that I have no chuck key and have tried every key in my
> > local hardware store, no dice, none fits. The chuck serrations look
> > like they were bitten in by a raptor!
> >
> > So. How do I determine if the chuck is replaceable with a new one?
> > How would I remove the chuck? Naturally, I have no manual for this
> > thing. And I've already emailed Harbor Freight. It could be years
> > before I hear from them.
> If youwind the handle all the way down you should find a vertical
> slotin the shaft . You will see the top of the chuck shaft at the
> bottom of the slot. you need to make a long tapered wedge to tap
> into this slot which will pop the chuck out.these are usually made
> from 1/4x 1" flat bar the chucks usually have a tapered shaft on the
> back to hold them in.To replace the chuckthe chuck is placed in the
> hole and wound down firmly onto a block of wood.
> If you want to use bigger drill bityou can buy them with the
> sametapered shaft.
> this is how all the drill presses ive used operate.If your drilling
> with big bits on a 5 or 6 speed machine it pays to slacken the belt
> abitand use some engine oil as a lubeto keep it all spinning
>IIRC the last Chinese press I lookedThanks guys. I'll try.
>at had a standard Jacob taper
What's a Jacob taper?
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, craig o'donnell <dadadata@f...> wrote:
slotin the shaft . You will see the top of the chuck shaft at the
bottom of the slot. you need to make a long tapered wedge to tap
into this slot which will pop the chuck out.these are usually made
from 1/4x 1" flat bar the chucks usually have a tapered shaft on the
back to hold them in.To replace the chuckthe chuck is placed in the
hole and wound down firmly onto a block of wood.
If you want to use bigger drill bityou can buy them with the
sametapered shaft.
this is how all the drill presses ive used operate.If your drilling
with big bits on a 5 or 6 speed machine it pays to slacken the belt
abitand use some engine oil as a lubeto keep it all spinning
cheers Paul
>yard
> Hi y'all,
>
> bought a house a while back and with it inherited a whole mess -o-
> stuff. Much went to dump, some went to Goodwill, some went to a
> sale. I have a "Central Machinery" (Chinese) benchtop drill pressIf youwind the handle all the way down you should find a vertical
> among the assorted odd tools left by the previous owner.
>
> This would seem to be a 5 speed unit, I checked Harbor Freight and
> this is not a current model (Harbor sells the "Central Machinery"
> brand.
>
> Problem is that I have no chuck key and have tried every key in my
> local hardware store, no dice, none fits. The chuck serrations look
> like they were bitten in by a raptor!
>
> So. How do I determine if the chuck is replaceable with a new one?
> How would I remove the chuck? Naturally, I have no manual for this
> thing. And I've already emailed Harbor Freight. It could be years
> before I hear from them.
slotin the shaft . You will see the top of the chuck shaft at the
bottom of the slot. you need to make a long tapered wedge to tap
into this slot which will pop the chuck out.these are usually made
from 1/4x 1" flat bar the chucks usually have a tapered shaft on the
back to hold them in.To replace the chuckthe chuck is placed in the
hole and wound down firmly onto a block of wood.
If you want to use bigger drill bityou can buy them with the
sametapered shaft.
this is how all the drill presses ive used operate.If your drilling
with big bits on a 5 or 6 speed machine it pays to slacken the belt
abitand use some engine oil as a lubeto keep it all spinning
cheers Paul
>Junks,
>
> --
> Craig O'Donnell
> Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
> <http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
> The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
> The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
> Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese
> American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
> Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
> _________________________________
>
> -- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
> -- Macintosh kinda guy
> Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
> _________________________________
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
Hi Craig
Many if not most drill presses have their chucks retained by friction. The
shaft onto which the chuck fits is tapered and the chuck is simply tapped up
into place. Over time the 'bond' between chuck and shaft can 'firm up' but
some BF&I will usually separate them. IIRC the last Chinese press I looked
at had a standard Jacob taper; you may be lucky. Bad news is that a decent
chuck will cost more than a new Chinese made press. I replaced the chuck on
one Chinese press with a spare part ordered from a supplier of a different
Chinese press, but that was up here in Canada.
Good luck
Derek
Many if not most drill presses have their chucks retained by friction. The
shaft onto which the chuck fits is tapered and the chuck is simply tapped up
into place. Over time the 'bond' between chuck and shaft can 'firm up' but
some BF&I will usually separate them. IIRC the last Chinese press I looked
at had a standard Jacob taper; you may be lucky. Bad news is that a decent
chuck will cost more than a new Chinese made press. I replaced the chuck on
one Chinese press with a spare part ordered from a supplier of a different
Chinese press, but that was up here in Canada.
Good luck
Derek
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, craig o'donnell <dadadata@f...> wrote:
How do I determine if the chuck is replaceable with a new one?
I'm not certain with Chinese stuff, but try this:
1-Open the chuck jaws as wide as possible.
2-See if a crewdriver bit will fit in a screw inside the chuck, at
the bottom (top of a drill press chuck?)
3-Turn hard clockwise to loosen (all chucks I've encountered have had
left handed threads)
4-Swear mightily if this doesn't help!
Good luck.
Bruce Hector
Hi y'all,
bought a house a while back and with it inherited a whole mess -o-
stuff. Much went to dump, some went to Goodwill, some went to a yard
sale. I have a "Central Machinery" (Chinese) benchtop drill press
among the assorted odd tools left by the previous owner.
This would seem to be a 5 speed unit, I checked Harbor Freight and
this is not a current model (Harbor sells the "Central Machinery"
brand.
Problem is that I have no chuck key and have tried every key in my
local hardware store, no dice, none fits. The chuck serrations look
like they were bitten in by a raptor!
So. How do I determine if the chuck is replaceable with a new one?
How would I remove the chuck? Naturally, I have no manual for this
thing. And I've already emailed Harbor Freight. It could be years
before I hear from them.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
bought a house a while back and with it inherited a whole mess -o-
stuff. Much went to dump, some went to Goodwill, some went to a yard
sale. I have a "Central Machinery" (Chinese) benchtop drill press
among the assorted odd tools left by the previous owner.
This would seem to be a 5 speed unit, I checked Harbor Freight and
this is not a current model (Harbor sells the "Central Machinery"
brand.
Problem is that I have no chuck key and have tried every key in my
local hardware store, no dice, none fits. The chuck serrations look
like they were bitten in by a raptor!
So. How do I determine if the chuck is replaceable with a new one?
How would I remove the chuck? Naturally, I have no manual for this
thing. And I've already emailed Harbor Freight. It could be years
before I hear from them.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]