[bolger] Re: Help! I need to buy a saw for boat building!
I've had a Rockwell direct drive saw for years, it's a 646 (I think) model,
just like Dynamite Payson used when he wrote his books, only his was a
Porter Cable, and thus pretty polished aluminum, while mine is dull. It's
durable as hell. I wish I could wear it out so I'd have an excuse for
getting a saw that uses 7.25" blades (cheaper and more readily available
than 6.5" ones) and has the blade on the right (left!) side, but I can't!
I've used it for terrible things like doing full depth, 30' long cuts
through nail-filled flooring and it still won't quit. I think Porter Cable
may still make the 7.25" version of this saw, though now it has a body of
plastic of some sort. If it's made anywhere near as well as my Rockwell
it'd be a saw for a lifetime. (Porter Cable became Rockwell then became
Porter Cable again)
Another nice thing for boatbuilders about the Porter Cable/Rockwell 646 and
its cousins is the bevel adjustment, the blade still enters the wood at the
same distance from the edge of the shoe no matter what angle it's set at.
Very handy when using a guide! Milwaukee's direct drive saws use the same
sort of setup and maybe some others. Look for a sliding height adjustment,
not a pivoting shoe, with a big knob on the front of the saw to lock it,
that'll probably be a saw with the good sort of angle adjustment.
As far as I know all worm drive saws use a pivoting shoe for depth
adjustment, so the blade will enter the wood at a different distance from
the edge of the shoe depending on the depth of cut and angle. Score a big
one for the good direct drive saws. For long straight cuts without a guide
I like the feel of a worm drive saw, you just crawl along behind and push
and it seems to follow a straight course (straight enough for house
carpentry anyway) almost on its own. Since I almost always use a guide,
that's not something I miss. I'd say go for a direct drive saw, with the
good angle adjustment, and you wouldn't go wrong with a Porter Cable. Some
of Porter Cable's saws can be had with the blade on the right (left!) side
so you can see where you're cutting too.
just like Dynamite Payson used when he wrote his books, only his was a
Porter Cable, and thus pretty polished aluminum, while mine is dull. It's
durable as hell. I wish I could wear it out so I'd have an excuse for
getting a saw that uses 7.25" blades (cheaper and more readily available
than 6.5" ones) and has the blade on the right (left!) side, but I can't!
I've used it for terrible things like doing full depth, 30' long cuts
through nail-filled flooring and it still won't quit. I think Porter Cable
may still make the 7.25" version of this saw, though now it has a body of
plastic of some sort. If it's made anywhere near as well as my Rockwell
it'd be a saw for a lifetime. (Porter Cable became Rockwell then became
Porter Cable again)
Another nice thing for boatbuilders about the Porter Cable/Rockwell 646 and
its cousins is the bevel adjustment, the blade still enters the wood at the
same distance from the edge of the shoe no matter what angle it's set at.
Very handy when using a guide! Milwaukee's direct drive saws use the same
sort of setup and maybe some others. Look for a sliding height adjustment,
not a pivoting shoe, with a big knob on the front of the saw to lock it,
that'll probably be a saw with the good sort of angle adjustment.
As far as I know all worm drive saws use a pivoting shoe for depth
adjustment, so the blade will enter the wood at a different distance from
the edge of the shoe depending on the depth of cut and angle. Score a big
one for the good direct drive saws. For long straight cuts without a guide
I like the feel of a worm drive saw, you just crawl along behind and push
and it seems to follow a straight course (straight enough for house
carpentry anyway) almost on its own. Since I almost always use a guide,
that's not something I miss. I'd say go for a direct drive saw, with the
good angle adjustment, and you wouldn't go wrong with a Porter Cable. Some
of Porter Cable's saws can be had with the blade on the right (left!) side
so you can see where you're cutting too.
On Sat, 26 Feb 2000 14:26:06 -0800, Chuck C. wrote:
> OK Guys,
>
> I need an electric saw. What should I get.
> ...
> I saw a direct drive, 15 amp, Porter Cable, framing saw that looked
> nice for $150,...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~jkohnen/nautical.html
All the troubles of man come from his not knowing how to sit still.
<Blaise Pascal>
Bad Karma!!? These tools have probably suffered abuse and who knows what
kind of indignities. I say that giving them a good home is the best kind of
Karma! Same for flea markets, and garage sales.
Chuck Leinweber
Duckworks Magazine
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com
kind of indignities. I say that giving them a good home is the best kind of
Karma! Same for flea markets, and garage sales.
Chuck Leinweber
Duckworks Magazine
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com
----- Original Message -----
From: David Ryan <david@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 8:15 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Help! I need to buy a saw for boat building!
> >Bolgeramos,
> >
> >When I was building my Windsprint I needed tools. All I started out with
was
> >a Craftsman circular saw and a hammer. I bought a jig saw. I borrowed a
table
> >saw. Then I happened to peek inside a pawnshop. Tool heaven!
>
> bad karma, dude.
>
> David Ryan
> Minister of Information and Culture
> Crumbling Empire Productions
> (212) 247-0296
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Get what you deserve with NextCard Visa! Rates as low as 2.9%
> Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR, online balance transfers, Rewards Points,
> no hidden fees, and much more! Get NextCard today and get the
> credit you deserve! Apply now! Get your NextCard Visa at:
>http://click.egroups.com/1/930/5/_/3457/_/951660835/
>
> eGroups.com Home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
Bolgeramos,
When I was building my Windsprint I needed tools. All I started out with was
a Craftsman circular saw and a hammer. I bought a jig saw. I borrowed a table
saw. Then I happened to peek inside a pawnshop. Tool heaven! They were
selling tools with a 30 day guarantee. I bought a small table saw and a mitre
saw for about a hundred and twenty bucks. Both still work great. I would
check it out.
Mike Masten
When I was building my Windsprint I needed tools. All I started out with was
a Craftsman circular saw and a hammer. I bought a jig saw. I borrowed a table
saw. Then I happened to peek inside a pawnshop. Tool heaven! They were
selling tools with a 30 day guarantee. I bought a small table saw and a mitre
saw for about a hundred and twenty bucks. Both still work great. I would
check it out.
Mike Masten
The modern Skill saws are not near the quality of the old ones,
ditto for Craftsman and B&D. I would go for PC 7 1/4" framing
saw with an electric brake. Makita often get good comments too.
A wormdrive saw will last forever but is too heavy for me.
When I was contemplating to mount a circular saw in a table,
I came across a cheap B&D bench saw with a small table and
5/8" miter slots. The fence was a joke. I replaced the saw
table with 3/4" formica covered baltic birch ply top, 53" by 33".
To keep the top straight under load it was built as a torsion box.
I routed two 3/4" x 3/8" miter slots that accept a decent miter
gauge and a tenonning jig.
Initially I used a maple fence I've built from a kit, but recently
it was replaced with a precision fence which serves the saw and a
table- mounted router.
alex
"chuck" <cpcorrei-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3173
ditto for Craftsman and B&D. I would go for PC 7 1/4" framing
saw with an electric brake. Makita often get good comments too.
A wormdrive saw will last forever but is too heavy for me.
When I was contemplating to mount a circular saw in a table,
I came across a cheap B&D bench saw with a small table and
5/8" miter slots. The fence was a joke. I replaced the saw
table with 3/4" formica covered baltic birch ply top, 53" by 33".
To keep the top straight under load it was built as a torsion box.
I routed two 3/4" x 3/8" miter slots that accept a decent miter
gauge and a tenonning jig.
Initially I used a maple fence I've built from a kit, but recently
it was replaced with a precision fence which serves the saw and a
table- mounted router.
alex
"chuck" <cpcorrei-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3173
> OK Guys,a
>
> I need an electric saw. What should I get.
>
> I will be using it as a general around the house, and building Bolger
> boats, saw, I only have a hand saw at this time. I would like to keep
> it under $200.
>
> Isn't a left side (blade) better because you can keep your eye on the
> cutting line.
>
> What's the difference in a regular (I think direct drive), and a worm
> drive?
>
> Your brand preference? and size preference?
>
> Are there saws that can be attached upside down to a table and become
> sort of table saw, so you could have both?need
>
> I saw a direct drive, 15 amp, Porter Cable, framing saw that looked
> nice for $150, but I won't be using the saw for looking nice, so I
> your imput.
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> Chuck C., on the banks of the Suisun Slough, back water of the
> Sacramento River, on a grey day in an otherwise sunny California
> awaiting spring and what I hope will be my first successful sail of my
> Folding Schooner.
>
>
Hi Chuck,
Since I work on construction I've been through a few. I've had the same
Skil 77 -7 1/4" wormdrive for 19 years and can't kill it, but it is heavy.
I like to also have a 5 1/2" or 6" saw for most work. Skil makes a 5 1/2"
for about $120 with the blade on the left that is heavy duty for it's size
and will cut through 2by lumber. I've been through 2 of them in 12 years or
so but they are good and got a lot of use. Then I bought the Porter Cable
6" with the blade on the left that I have now and am disappointed in some of
the details. It runs fine but the depth and angle adjustments are really
hard to use. They stick and then jump too far. It was about $120 too. If
I were doing it over I'd get the Skil again. I've also had a Milwaukee 7
1/4" worm drive that ran like a Mercedes until it got stolen. Would
probably last forever but costs $200. I really like the smaller saws for
the generally lighter weight boat work, plywood and 1x lumber. Especially
with the thin kerf blade. Easier to handle and more precise and a lot less
tiring.-I only use the heavy duty ones for a lot of heavy work and ripping
2x's.-- The quality little ones work fine for most framing where you are
just crosscutting 2x's .I definitely like the blade on the left.
For ripping 1x's and lumber, get the rip fence accessory and you'll hardly
ever need the table saw.
Like Ron B. says, a saber saw is really useful, if not indispensable,
but for $200 I think I'd spend $120 on the circular saw and $80 or less on
the saber saw.
Gary
From Florence, on the Oregon Coast, where he is trying to build a 30'
trimaran outdoors in the pouring rain, and also waiting for spring.
Since I work on construction I've been through a few. I've had the same
Skil 77 -7 1/4" wormdrive for 19 years and can't kill it, but it is heavy.
I like to also have a 5 1/2" or 6" saw for most work. Skil makes a 5 1/2"
for about $120 with the blade on the left that is heavy duty for it's size
and will cut through 2by lumber. I've been through 2 of them in 12 years or
so but they are good and got a lot of use. Then I bought the Porter Cable
6" with the blade on the left that I have now and am disappointed in some of
the details. It runs fine but the depth and angle adjustments are really
hard to use. They stick and then jump too far. It was about $120 too. If
I were doing it over I'd get the Skil again. I've also had a Milwaukee 7
1/4" worm drive that ran like a Mercedes until it got stolen. Would
probably last forever but costs $200. I really like the smaller saws for
the generally lighter weight boat work, plywood and 1x lumber. Especially
with the thin kerf blade. Easier to handle and more precise and a lot less
tiring.-I only use the heavy duty ones for a lot of heavy work and ripping
2x's.-- The quality little ones work fine for most framing where you are
just crosscutting 2x's .I definitely like the blade on the left.
For ripping 1x's and lumber, get the rip fence accessory and you'll hardly
ever need the table saw.
Like Ron B. says, a saber saw is really useful, if not indispensable,
but for $200 I think I'd spend $120 on the circular saw and $80 or less on
the saber saw.
Gary
From Florence, on the Oregon Coast, where he is trying to build a 30'
trimaran outdoors in the pouring rain, and also waiting for spring.
You will adjust to whatever you get. I bought a cheep "Skill" saw 24 years
ago. It's real ugly now. I can't seem to ruin it.( so I can get a cool
looking one,... dumb ) It is direct drive. works just fine,and it's done a
lot of work all around.
Best, Steve Yahn
At 02:26 PM 02/26/2000 -0800, you wrote:
ago. It's real ugly now. I can't seem to ruin it.( so I can get a cool
looking one,... dumb ) It is direct drive. works just fine,and it's done a
lot of work all around.
Best, Steve Yahn
At 02:26 PM 02/26/2000 -0800, you wrote:
>OK Guys,
>
>I need an electric saw. What should I get.
>
>I will be using it as a general around the house, and building Bolger
>boats, saw, I only have a hand saw at this time. I would like to keep
>it under $200.
>
>Isn't a left side (blade) better because you can keep your eye on the
>cutting line.
>
>What's the difference in a regular (I think direct drive), and a worm
>drive?
>
>Your brand preference? and size preference?
>
>Are there saws that can be attached upside down to a table and become a
>sort of table saw, so you could have both?
>
>I saw a direct drive, 15 amp, Porter Cable, framing saw that looked
>nice for $150, but I won't be using the saw for looking nice, so I need
>your imput.
>
>Thanks for the help,
>
>Chuck C., on the banks of the Suisun Slough, back water of the
>Sacramento River, on a grey day in an otherwise sunny California
>awaiting spring and what I hope will be my first successful sail of my
>Folding Schooner.
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>GET A NEXTCARD VISA, in 30 seconds! Get rates as low as 2.9%
>Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR and no hidden fees. Apply NOW!
>http://click.egroups.com/1/932/5/_/3457/_/951603981/
>
>-- Create a poll/survey for your group!
>--http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=bolger&m=1
>
>
>
Actually, I seem to remember about last october, Leander, the folding
schooner builder, ended up buying the same porter cable "framer's saw" with
blade on the left and loved it.
The Porter Cable is my personal favorite, after 12 years with an adequate,
but right blade, sears saw.
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, fla.
robert@...
amy@...
schooner builder, ended up buying the same porter cable "framer's saw" with
blade on the left and loved it.
The Porter Cable is my personal favorite, after 12 years with an adequate,
but right blade, sears saw.
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, fla.
robert@...
amy@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chuck [mailto:cpcorreia@...]
> Sent: February 26, 2000 5:26 PM
> To:bolger@...
> Subject: [bolger] Help! I need to buy a saw for boat building!
>
>
> OK Guys,
>
> I need an electric saw. What should I get.
>
> I will be using it as a general around the house, and building Bolger
> boats, saw, I only have a hand saw at this time. I would like to keep
> it under $200.
>
> Isn't a left side (blade) better because you can keep your eye on the
> cutting line.
>
> What's the difference in a regular (I think direct drive), and a worm
> drive?
>
> Your brand preference? and size preference?
>
> Are there saws that can be attached upside down to a table and become a
> sort of table saw, so you could have both?
>
> I saw a direct drive, 15 amp, Porter Cable, framing saw that looked
> nice for $150, but I won't be using the saw for looking nice, so I need
> your imput.
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> Chuck C., on the banks of the Suisun Slough, back water of the
> Sacramento River, on a grey day in an otherwise sunny California
> awaiting spring and what I hope will be my first successful sail of my
> Folding Schooner.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> GET A NEXTCARD VISA, in 30 seconds! Get rates as low as 2.9%
> Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR and no hidden fees. Apply NOW!
>http://click.egroups.com/1/932/5/_/3457/_/951603981/
>
> -- Create a poll/survey for your group!
> --http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=bolger&m=1
>
>
If I could only have one powered saw I'd buy one of the Bosch
jig saws. They are amazing! Much more versatile then a circular
saw.
Ron
jig saws. They are amazing! Much more versatile then a circular
saw.
Ron
>From: "Chuck" <cpcorreia@...>
>
> I need an electric saw. What should I get.
>
I would second the vote for the PC. I have had one for a few years and it
is a very good saw. On a commercial note, A current Harbour Freight catalog
lists these saws for $99. They are refurbs.
James
is a very good saw. On a commercial note, A current Harbour Freight catalog
lists these saws for $99. They are refurbs.
James
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert N. Lundy" <robert@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2000 7:25 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Help! I need to buy a saw for boat building!
> Actually, I seem to remember about last october, Leander, the folding
> schooner builder, ended up buying the same porter cable "framer's saw"
with
> blade on the left and loved it.
>
> The Porter Cable is my personal favorite, after 12 years with an adequate,
> but right blade, sears saw.
>
> Robert & Amy Lundy
> St. Petersburg, fla.
>robert@...
>amy@...
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Chuck [mailto:cpcorreia@...]
> > Sent: February 26, 2000 5:26 PM
> > To:bolger@...
> > Subject: [bolger] Help! I need to buy a saw for boat building!
> >
> >
> > OK Guys,
> >
> > I need an electric saw. What should I get.
> >
> > I will be using it as a general around the house, and building Bolger
> > boats, saw, I only have a hand saw at this time. I would like to keep
> > it under $200.
> >
> > Isn't a left side (blade) better because you can keep your eye on the
> > cutting line.
> >
> > What's the difference in a regular (I think direct drive), and a worm
> > drive?
> >
> > Your brand preference? and size preference?
> >
> > Are there saws that can be attached upside down to a table and become a
> > sort of table saw, so you could have both?
> >
> > I saw a direct drive, 15 amp, Porter Cable, framing saw that looked
> > nice for $150, but I won't be using the saw for looking nice, so I need
> > your imput.
> >
> > Thanks for the help,
> >
> > Chuck C., on the banks of the Suisun Slough, back water of the
> > Sacramento River, on a grey day in an otherwise sunny California
> > awaiting spring and what I hope will be my first successful sail of my
> > Folding Schooner.
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > GET A NEXTCARD VISA, in 30 seconds! Get rates as low as 2.9%
> > Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR and no hidden fees. Apply NOW!
> >http://click.egroups.com/1/932/5/_/3457/_/951603981/
> >
> > -- Create a poll/survey for your group!
> > --http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=bolger&m=1
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Get what you deserve with NextCard Visa! Rates as low as 2.9%
> Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR, online balance transfers, Rewards Points,
> no hidden fees, and much more! Get NextCard today and get the
> credit youdeserve! Apply now! Get your NextCard Visa at:
>http://click.egroups.com/1/929/5/_/3457/_/951618345/
>
> -- Create a poll/survey for your group!
> --http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=bolger&m=1
>
>
>OK Guys,The first power tool I ever bought was a Skil brand circular saw and
>
>I need an electric saw. What should I get.
>
>I will be using it as a general around the house, and building Bolger
>boats, saw, I only have a hand saw at this time. I would like to keep
>it under $200.
I haven't had moment's regret. I think on your budget you can get
both a good little table saw (I picked up a used craftsman for $75,)
and a circular saw.
Better tools are better, but not enough better to justify the price
if you're on budget.
David Ryan
Minister of Information and Culture
Crumbling Empire Productions
(212) 247-0296
has to be a Makita!!! I have owned saws from a skill to a sears... and the
Makita that I recently purchased is the best that I have ever used.....also
get a thin kerf blade... you would be amazed at how much difference that
makes for power and cut!!!!
Makita that I recently purchased is the best that I have ever used.....also
get a thin kerf blade... you would be amazed at how much difference that
makes for power and cut!!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck <cpcorreia@...>
To: <bolger@...>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2000 5:26 PM
Subject: [bolger] Help! I need to buy a saw for boat building!
> OK Guys,
>
> I need an electric saw. What should I get.
>
> I will be using it as a general around the house, and building Bolger
> boats, saw, I only have a hand saw at this time. I would like to keep
> it under $200.
>
> Isn't a left side (blade) better because you can keep your eye on the
> cutting line.
>
> What's the difference in a regular (I think direct drive), and a worm
> drive?
>
> Your brand preference? and size preference?
>
> Are there saws that can be attached upside down to a table and become a
> sort of table saw, so you could have both?
>
> I saw a direct drive, 15 amp, Porter Cable, framing saw that looked
> nice for $150, but I won't be using the saw for looking nice, so I need
> your imput.
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> Chuck C., on the banks of the Suisun Slough, back water of the
> Sacramento River, on a grey day in an otherwise sunny California
> awaiting spring and what I hope will be my first successful sail of my
> Folding Schooner.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> GET A NEXTCARD VISA, in 30 seconds! Get rates as low as 2.9%
> Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR and no hidden fees. Apply NOW!
>http://click.egroups.com/1/932/5/_/3457/_/951603981/
>
> -- Create a poll/survey for your group!
> --http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=bolger&m=1
>
OK Guys,
I need an electric saw. What should I get.
I will be using it as a general around the house, and building Bolger
boats, saw, I only have a hand saw at this time. I would like to keep
it under $200.
Isn't a left side (blade) better because you can keep your eye on the
cutting line.
What's the difference in a regular (I think direct drive), and a worm
drive?
Your brand preference? and size preference?
Are there saws that can be attached upside down to a table and become a
sort of table saw, so you could have both?
I saw a direct drive, 15 amp, Porter Cable, framing saw that looked
nice for $150, but I won't be using the saw for looking nice, so I need
your imput.
Thanks for the help,
Chuck C., on the banks of the Suisun Slough, back water of the
Sacramento River, on a grey day in an otherwise sunny California
awaiting spring and what I hope will be my first successful sail of my
Folding Schooner.
I need an electric saw. What should I get.
I will be using it as a general around the house, and building Bolger
boats, saw, I only have a hand saw at this time. I would like to keep
it under $200.
Isn't a left side (blade) better because you can keep your eye on the
cutting line.
What's the difference in a regular (I think direct drive), and a worm
drive?
Your brand preference? and size preference?
Are there saws that can be attached upside down to a table and become a
sort of table saw, so you could have both?
I saw a direct drive, 15 amp, Porter Cable, framing saw that looked
nice for $150, but I won't be using the saw for looking nice, so I need
your imput.
Thanks for the help,
Chuck C., on the banks of the Suisun Slough, back water of the
Sacramento River, on a grey day in an otherwise sunny California
awaiting spring and what I hope will be my first successful sail of my
Folding Schooner.