Re: [bolger] Re: scarfing vs butt joints
If you are building under a roof where you can wedge a few 2x4's from
ceiling to the bottom of the boat you shouldn't have any trouble adding
a second layer over the first using 3/8ths. That's what I did on my
JBJr. Two staggered layers of 1/2" fir, just butted, one layer at a time...
That, plus the layer of xynole with epoxy/graphite has made for a strong
bottom.
Rick
ceiling to the bottom of the boat you shouldn't have any trouble adding
a second layer over the first using 3/8ths. That's what I did on my
JBJr. Two staggered layers of 1/2" fir, just butted, one layer at a time...
That, plus the layer of xynole with epoxy/graphite has made for a strong
bottom.
Rick
> I was looking at between 3/8ths
> and 3/4" for the bottom and first chines. I am looking at building a Scram
> Pram.
>
> The reason was to build up the panels a bit thicker than the plans stated,
> to make the hull less vulnerable to punctures. The more I look at the
> whole
> situation, I think instead, I'll just follow the plans specifications, and
> add a few more layers of fiberglass on the bottom.
>
> See Ya
>
> Have Fun
>
> Bruce
>
Yes. Paint dropcloths might work but you might be better off with stuff
that's 4 or 5 mils so it doesn't get holes in it too easily. Some of the
heavy duty dropcloths are this thick, I think. Another source is the big
rolls of plastic that are sold for vapor barrier when building houses.
Most of these are polyethylene, which epoxy won't stick to. Around edges
of sheets you might want some kind of release covered by something (like
paper towels) to soak up the excess that gets squeezed out. Aircraft
dacron can be used as a release, which I understand also can leave a
nice textured surface behind for gluing. I've also heard of just poking
a lot of holes in polyethylene, but then you'll have a smooth finish on
the epoxy, except for the little holes. They make rollers of spikes
which might work for the holes. I think they're sold for model airplane
use but I can't remembe what they're called. Might be good to leave
masking tape on any surface near an edge that needs to stay free of
epoxy, but it's important to peel it off right away and to keep it from
getting too warm.
that's 4 or 5 mils so it doesn't get holes in it too easily. Some of the
heavy duty dropcloths are this thick, I think. Another source is the big
rolls of plastic that are sold for vapor barrier when building houses.
Most of these are polyethylene, which epoxy won't stick to. Around edges
of sheets you might want some kind of release covered by something (like
paper towels) to soak up the excess that gets squeezed out. Aircraft
dacron can be used as a release, which I understand also can leave a
nice textured surface behind for gluing. I've also heard of just poking
a lot of holes in polyethylene, but then you'll have a smooth finish on
the epoxy, except for the little holes. They make rollers of spikes
which might work for the holes. I think they're sold for model airplane
use but I can't remembe what they're called. Might be good to leave
masking tape on any surface near an edge that needs to stay free of
epoxy, but it's important to peel it off right away and to keep it from
getting too warm.
>kris nordby <bonsii@...> wrote:
>so if im understanding all this right, the bag compresses from the
>preashure of the atmaspher pushing on the bagging material? and if so
>would the plastic that is used when painting to cover the floor that
>comes on different thicknesses work? and a (real) release should be
>used?
>
Bruce,
I recall you wrote something about building 3/8" ply up to 1.5" ? But
can't remember what your building? ( or planning to).
Rick
Bruce C. Anderson wrote:
I recall you wrote something about building 3/8" ply up to 1.5" ? But
can't remember what your building? ( or planning to).
Rick
Bruce C. Anderson wrote:
> Howdy[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: scarfing vs butt joints
> >
> >. Since
> > with the jig I have a scarph is as easy as running my saw along the
> > endge of the wood, why not scarph, but that's just me.
> >
> The way the patterns are laid out, on the 4x8' sheets, there is not enough
> room for scarfs. Other wise I would. :(
>
> Thanks
>
> See Ya
>
> Have Fun
>
> Bruce
>
>http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
>
>
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Howdy Rick
and 3/4" for the bottom and first chines. I am looking at building a Scram
Pram.
The reason was to build up the panels a bit thicker than the plans stated,
to make the hull less vulnerable to punctures. The more I look at the whole
situation, I think instead, I'll just follow the plans specifications, and
add a few more layers of fiberglass on the bottom.
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
> -----Original Message-----Oops, If I said 1.5", I miswrote. Sorry, I was looking at between 3/8ths
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: scarfing vs butt joints
>
> I recall you wrote something about building 3/8" ply up to 1.5" ? But
> can't remember what your building? ( or planning to).
and 3/4" for the bottom and first chines. I am looking at building a Scram
Pram.
The reason was to build up the panels a bit thicker than the plans stated,
to make the hull less vulnerable to punctures. The more I look at the whole
situation, I think instead, I'll just follow the plans specifications, and
add a few more layers of fiberglass on the bottom.
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
Howdy
room for scarfs. Other wise I would. :(
Thanks
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
> -----Original Message-----The way the patterns are laid out, on the 4x8' sheets, there is not enough
> Subject: [bolger] Re: scarfing vs butt joints
>
>. Since
> with the jig I have a scarph is as easy as running my saw along the
> endge of the wood, why not scarph, but that's just me.
>
room for scarfs. Other wise I would. :(
Thanks
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
self,
bottoms mostly, and have more than adequate strength. The problem
when vaccing would come up if at all if the butts did not have a
snooth radius. presumably they would smooth out great when next
layer of ply is nailed down, but that may not happen with vac. Since
with the jig I have a scarph is as easy as running my saw along the
endge of the wood, why not scarph, but that's just me.
>plywood with
> If that was in reference to my plan to vacuum bag laminates of
> but joints included, then I would like to add that I intend to useshould make
> fiberglass strips on the exposed side of the butt joints. That
> it as strong as the same thickness of ply.If your building a bolger, the butts are used on the multilayer
>
> If not, never mind. :)
>
> See Ya
>
> Have Fun
>
> Bruce
bottoms mostly, and have more than adequate strength. The problem
when vaccing would come up if at all if the butts did not have a
snooth radius. presumably they would smooth out great when next
layer of ply is nailed down, but that may not happen with vac. Since
with the jig I have a scarph is as easy as running my saw along the
endge of the wood, why not scarph, but that's just me.
>
>http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
so if im understanding all this right, the bag compresses from the
preashure of the atmaspher pushing on the bagging material? and if so
would the plastic that is used when painting to cover the floor that
comes on different thicknesses work? and a (real) release should be
used?
preashure of the atmaspher pushing on the bagging material? and if so
would the plastic that is used when painting to cover the floor that
comes on different thicknesses work? and a (real) release should be
used?
Howdy Natalie
but joints included, then I would like to add that I intend to use
fiberglass strips on the exposed side of the butt joints. That should make
it as strong as the same thickness of ply.
If not, never mind. :)
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
> -----Original Message-----If that was in reference to my plan to vacuum bag laminates of plywood with
> Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: scarfing vs butt joints
>
> butt joint has
> almost no strength in it self,
but joints included, then I would like to add that I intend to use
fiberglass strips on the exposed side of the butt joints. That should make
it as strong as the same thickness of ply.
If not, never mind. :)
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
be very careful concerning Butt joints, a butt joint has almost no strength in it self, It is best to stagger in both directions (that is both length and width) to get the most strength from the least joints in long plywood finish projects
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I kinda doubt it would be worth it on 2X4's, but on a sheet of plywood,
if you pull only 2" or so of mercury, that's over 4000 pounds of
pressure, distributed almost perfectly evenly. Try to do that with
clamps! (and depending on the pump and your patience sealing bags, it's
feasible to get more than 20 inches Hg, and theoretically possible to
get about 30). That's a lot of screws not to drive, remove or holes to
fill! (Ok, I've used vacuum bags, even big ones, but not for that, yet.
I did bag a daggerboard but I made the mistake of waiting too long with
the glue (mixed in my shop and then brought to the site!) and it set up
a bit too soon.)
if you pull only 2" or so of mercury, that's over 4000 pounds of
pressure, distributed almost perfectly evenly. Try to do that with
clamps! (and depending on the pump and your patience sealing bags, it's
feasible to get more than 20 inches Hg, and theoretically possible to
get about 30). That's a lot of screws not to drive, remove or holes to
fill! (Ok, I've used vacuum bags, even big ones, but not for that, yet.
I did bag a daggerboard but I made the mistake of waiting too long with
the glue (mixed in my shop and then brought to the site!) and it set up
a bit too soon.)
>kris nordby <bonsii@...>
>
>
>wrote:
>
>ok here come a silly question why vacum bag, epoxy? like scarfing 2x4s
>together. i had a friend that cast jewlry, and he vacumed that, to fill
>the tiny details up, dose vacume pumping epoxy and wood make it
>penatrate the wood better? why not just clamp it there?
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, kris nordby <bonsii@m...> wrote:
you have the first layer down, the second layer is as easy a
squirting out the caulk around the edge, and droping a pastic sheet
over it. You get totaly even distribution of pressure, no bunching,
and glue does settle far better than it does with point fasteners,
less glue is used, you can usualy get away with zero fillers being
added. With things like scarphs the results are just spectacular.
All the little bits of wood in the feathers are faired down, and the
glue is held just where you want it. When I first used it on one
project where I was looking forward to it, but intimidated, I sure
didn't want to have to do any other steps that way. After getting
used to it, I did everythig I possibly could with vac. It's so much
better. It is necesary in certain cases, but Bolger boats don't
require it, so it's just a choice one may take.
On wood, it becaome necesary when doing vast parts where one could
never get the clapms or screws in place in time. Techniques like
constant camber, or cylinder molding, or making one's own preshaped
balsa core panels, or digonal laminated plywood.
Vac is widely uses in fabric and foam boats, because these materials
lack the stiffness for clamping to work, plus large amounts of resin
are used, and the vac can be configured as a material handling thing,
where it draws the resin, wets the whole part, squeezes away the
waste, and clamps the part untilit has cured. A process called resin
infusion. Home builders are working with this technique.
One advantage appreciated as much in the small shop as large, is that
once the bag is on, smell/vapour from the resin is contained, so the
results are healthier for you and the environment. This is a major
plus for industry in a world where VOC compliance is an issue. Small
shops usualy don't have the air volume to disperse these vapours, and
the small shop can be a pretty toxic place.
> ok here come a silly question why vacum bag, epoxy? like scarfing2x4s
> together. i had a friend that cast jewlry, and he vacumed that, tofill
> the tiny details up, dose vacume pumping epoxy and wood make itOnce you get the hang of it, it's far easier than clamping. Imagine
> penatrate the wood better? why not just clamp it there?
you have the first layer down, the second layer is as easy a
squirting out the caulk around the edge, and droping a pastic sheet
over it. You get totaly even distribution of pressure, no bunching,
and glue does settle far better than it does with point fasteners,
less glue is used, you can usualy get away with zero fillers being
added. With things like scarphs the results are just spectacular.
All the little bits of wood in the feathers are faired down, and the
glue is held just where you want it. When I first used it on one
project where I was looking forward to it, but intimidated, I sure
didn't want to have to do any other steps that way. After getting
used to it, I did everythig I possibly could with vac. It's so much
better. It is necesary in certain cases, but Bolger boats don't
require it, so it's just a choice one may take.
On wood, it becaome necesary when doing vast parts where one could
never get the clapms or screws in place in time. Techniques like
constant camber, or cylinder molding, or making one's own preshaped
balsa core panels, or digonal laminated plywood.
Vac is widely uses in fabric and foam boats, because these materials
lack the stiffness for clamping to work, plus large amounts of resin
are used, and the vac can be configured as a material handling thing,
where it draws the resin, wets the whole part, squeezes away the
waste, and clamps the part untilit has cured. A process called resin
infusion. Home builders are working with this technique.
One advantage appreciated as much in the small shop as large, is that
once the bag is on, smell/vapour from the resin is contained, so the
results are healthier for you and the environment. This is a major
plus for industry in a world where VOC compliance is an issue. Small
shops usualy don't have the air volume to disperse these vapours, and
the small shop can be a pretty toxic place.
Howdy
plywood. I intend to butt join 2 4x8 sheets to make a 4x16 ft sheet. Then
center one of the other 4x8 sheets on the 4x16. Cutting the last 4x8 in
half, I would then butt the resulting 4x4 pieces on either end of the top
4x8 sheet.
The resulting laminate would have no scarf joints, just 3 butt joints.
After it's laminated the 3 butt joints will be fiberglassed on the exposed
side.
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
If you give me money, I'll try to spend it.
Click here to Donate
> -----Original Message-----For me it seems to be the only practical way to laminate large sheets of
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Vac pumps - Review of small pump
>
>
> ok here come a silly question why vacuum bag, epoxy?
plywood. I intend to butt join 2 4x8 sheets to make a 4x16 ft sheet. Then
center one of the other 4x8 sheets on the 4x16. Cutting the last 4x8 in
half, I would then butt the resulting 4x4 pieces on either end of the top
4x8 sheet.
The resulting laminate would have no scarf joints, just 3 butt joints.
After it's laminated the 3 butt joints will be fiberglassed on the exposed
side.
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
If you give me money, I'll try to spend it.
Click here to Donate
Howdy
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
> -----Original Message-----Great info Thanks!!!!
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Vic pumps - Review of small pump
>
> There are three basic bag set-up:
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
ok here come a silly question why vacum bag, epoxy? like scarfing 2x4s
together. i had a friend that cast jewlry, and he vacumed that, to fill
the tiny details up, dose vacume pumping epoxy and wood make it
penatrate the wood better? why not just clamp it there?
together. i had a friend that cast jewlry, and he vacumed that, to fill
the tiny details up, dose vacume pumping epoxy and wood make it
penatrate the wood better? why not just clamp it there?
It is really simple, all that stuff, from the 300 dollar pumps to
stethoscopes isn't necessary.
There are three basic bag set-up:
Everything in the bag; Sticking something to a part of the boat;
Wrapping a bag around just a single area, like say scarfing 2 2x4
together with the bag only in the middle.
Yours if you are doing it on the floor would be one, and if doing it
on the boat would be two.
On the floor, just lay all the pieces over one layer of construction
plastic. Scarf joints are a really good idea, and once you have made
a few, won't raise an eyebrow, though people sometimes worry about
making them. SO lay you first layer down with scarfs overlapping.
shoot staples or something similar so the scarfs don't separate, but
make sure the heads don't sit up and hold the next piece from a good
fit, or fire through into the bag. Once your first layer is laid
own, poor some slow epoxy on by the cupful, and use a squeegee to
fully coat all the surface, though anything more than fully poured on
and scrped off is unnecessary. When you squeegee, the epoxy often
foams, but it will wet out adjacent ply just as well.
Throw your next layer down, and wet it also, then flip it over with
offset scarfs with two layers you should be able to use staples to
hold everything in position if you want. Of course with any
positioning staples, be sure they won't either stop the vac from
smoothing the sheets down, or end up shoving the scarphs out of
position. Keep going until all the layers are down.
Either you can fold the bag over, or need a second sheet to cover the
stuff you are bagging. Take the cheapest caulk you can find that
will seal anything, and squirt a bead all the way around, where there
will be a joint.
Dragging the air out can be done a number of ways. An old garden
hose is the simplest, drill a hole every 6 inches, but leave say 5
feet without holes where it will emerge from the bag. Tape that end
with tight raps of duct tape, until it a firm fit with the hose of
you shopvac. Don't worry about an airtight fit, the shopvac doesn't
need that. Distribute the hose aver your panels, and throw around
some rope or bubble wrap as an air diffuser. Don't worry about all
those complicated diffusers one reads about, since 90% of your wood
will be dry, you don't have the problems they do bagging fabric
stacks.
Fold the bag closed, but don't press anything down. You need a layer
above and below where the hose emerges. Turn the vac on, and start
closing the bag around the hose. Work out around the bag bringing
everything together. Try to work it so puckers are kept to a
minimum, but if you get a section where the bag bunches up, take the
fold off at an angle, and seal it up. When everything is patted
down, look for any areas where the caulk isn't in contact, or
adjacent plastic isn't tight to the part. If your plastic is new,
and you use a bead of caulk, then all the leaks should be very easy
to find. Before I got my QSP vac, I used to do this with a vac from
h$$l, and I would wear earmuffs through the process, never had any
problem finding leaks. For fancy woodwork I use a ballast tank, and
a remote pump and pressure switch (basically your handy compressor
set-up in reverse). But that kind of thing isn't useful here.
The other method is to install the fist layer on the boat just as you
would at any time, use scarphs if possible, and plug any holes with
epoxy before you leave it to dry. You want a good flange of extra
material for the caulk, and to let the material overlap enough for a
bond all around. Apply you epoxy as before, and put the second layer
down. This time the scarphs shouldn't require preassembly, just tack
them in place for stability. You can put extra layers on as you
wish, but realistically if this is your first go, do one layer at a
time.
The bag in this case is just a sheet that will be caulked to the
first layer of ply. Everything is done the same as above, except,
you just treat the bottom layer of ply as the bottom sheet of the
bag. Basically everything else is the same.
Some Bolger boats have very heavy curves in the ply, and this can
create problems for vac bagging. It's like that saying, with a long
enough lever and something to rest it on I can move the world. With
a wide enough flange, vac pressure is strong enough to flatten
anything in the contact area, but it gets impractical after a
certain. On the positive, most of the big boats use transverse sheet
layouts, which are relative pussycats to crush. Another way to deal
with areas like perimeters if you think there is some risk they won't
suck down, is to apply a mayonnaise bog to fill any areas that happen
to open. This stuff is thick enough to fill or squeeze out depending
on what happens. A nice thing about making your own thick ply is you
can put the good surfaces outermost, and the glue or bog can fill any
bad holes.
I tell you it's all so fun, it would be worth the trouble even if it
didn't work better.
stethoscopes isn't necessary.
There are three basic bag set-up:
Everything in the bag; Sticking something to a part of the boat;
Wrapping a bag around just a single area, like say scarfing 2 2x4
together with the bag only in the middle.
Yours if you are doing it on the floor would be one, and if doing it
on the boat would be two.
On the floor, just lay all the pieces over one layer of construction
plastic. Scarf joints are a really good idea, and once you have made
a few, won't raise an eyebrow, though people sometimes worry about
making them. SO lay you first layer down with scarfs overlapping.
shoot staples or something similar so the scarfs don't separate, but
make sure the heads don't sit up and hold the next piece from a good
fit, or fire through into the bag. Once your first layer is laid
own, poor some slow epoxy on by the cupful, and use a squeegee to
fully coat all the surface, though anything more than fully poured on
and scrped off is unnecessary. When you squeegee, the epoxy often
foams, but it will wet out adjacent ply just as well.
Throw your next layer down, and wet it also, then flip it over with
offset scarfs with two layers you should be able to use staples to
hold everything in position if you want. Of course with any
positioning staples, be sure they won't either stop the vac from
smoothing the sheets down, or end up shoving the scarphs out of
position. Keep going until all the layers are down.
Either you can fold the bag over, or need a second sheet to cover the
stuff you are bagging. Take the cheapest caulk you can find that
will seal anything, and squirt a bead all the way around, where there
will be a joint.
Dragging the air out can be done a number of ways. An old garden
hose is the simplest, drill a hole every 6 inches, but leave say 5
feet without holes where it will emerge from the bag. Tape that end
with tight raps of duct tape, until it a firm fit with the hose of
you shopvac. Don't worry about an airtight fit, the shopvac doesn't
need that. Distribute the hose aver your panels, and throw around
some rope or bubble wrap as an air diffuser. Don't worry about all
those complicated diffusers one reads about, since 90% of your wood
will be dry, you don't have the problems they do bagging fabric
stacks.
Fold the bag closed, but don't press anything down. You need a layer
above and below where the hose emerges. Turn the vac on, and start
closing the bag around the hose. Work out around the bag bringing
everything together. Try to work it so puckers are kept to a
minimum, but if you get a section where the bag bunches up, take the
fold off at an angle, and seal it up. When everything is patted
down, look for any areas where the caulk isn't in contact, or
adjacent plastic isn't tight to the part. If your plastic is new,
and you use a bead of caulk, then all the leaks should be very easy
to find. Before I got my QSP vac, I used to do this with a vac from
h$$l, and I would wear earmuffs through the process, never had any
problem finding leaks. For fancy woodwork I use a ballast tank, and
a remote pump and pressure switch (basically your handy compressor
set-up in reverse). But that kind of thing isn't useful here.
The other method is to install the fist layer on the boat just as you
would at any time, use scarphs if possible, and plug any holes with
epoxy before you leave it to dry. You want a good flange of extra
material for the caulk, and to let the material overlap enough for a
bond all around. Apply you epoxy as before, and put the second layer
down. This time the scarphs shouldn't require preassembly, just tack
them in place for stability. You can put extra layers on as you
wish, but realistically if this is your first go, do one layer at a
time.
The bag in this case is just a sheet that will be caulked to the
first layer of ply. Everything is done the same as above, except,
you just treat the bottom layer of ply as the bottom sheet of the
bag. Basically everything else is the same.
Some Bolger boats have very heavy curves in the ply, and this can
create problems for vac bagging. It's like that saying, with a long
enough lever and something to rest it on I can move the world. With
a wide enough flange, vac pressure is strong enough to flatten
anything in the contact area, but it gets impractical after a
certain. On the positive, most of the big boats use transverse sheet
layouts, which are relative pussycats to crush. Another way to deal
with areas like perimeters if you think there is some risk they won't
suck down, is to apply a mayonnaise bog to fill any areas that happen
to open. This stuff is thick enough to fill or squeeze out depending
on what happens. A nice thing about making your own thick ply is you
can put the good surfaces outermost, and the glue or bog can fill any
bad holes.
I tell you it's all so fun, it would be worth the trouble even if it
didn't work better.
Sounds pretty expensive. I bet improvisation can do better. In my
experience, for a boat sized bag setup, it's good to have high capacity
(i.e. cfm) but it's also good to have quiet. If I was doing something
like this, I might use two thrift store vacs a long ways off. That way
you can use something similar to a stethescope (I think it might
actually be a little microphone, amplifier and earpiece, but I can't
remember) to find leaks. Strip caulk is probably worth it, or very
heavy, sticky conventional caulk, maybe? We used specialty stuff. I
wouldn't even consider duct tape. It's already kind of a pain to find
all the leaks.
For bleeder (to let the air out) try cheapo rope and paper towels.
In my experience (which has been mostly on small stuff) common sense
improvising works pretty well on vacuum bagging, but try a dry run first.
experience, for a boat sized bag setup, it's good to have high capacity
(i.e. cfm) but it's also good to have quiet. If I was doing something
like this, I might use two thrift store vacs a long ways off. That way
you can use something similar to a stethescope (I think it might
actually be a little microphone, amplifier and earpiece, but I can't
remember) to find leaks. Strip caulk is probably worth it, or very
heavy, sticky conventional caulk, maybe? We used specialty stuff. I
wouldn't even consider duct tape. It's already kind of a pain to find
all the leaks.
For bleeder (to let the air out) try cheapo rope and paper towels.
In my experience (which has been mostly on small stuff) common sense
improvising works pretty well on vacuum bagging, but try a dry run first.
> Ford and Mary Ann Walton <waltons@...>
>wrote:
>Baggers,
>
>For those interested, the November 2003 Better Homes and Gardens "WOOD"
>magazine favorably reviews a $300 small pump and bag system from Quality
>VAKuum Products, 800-547-5484, www.qualityvak.com.
>
>Ford Walton
>
4 x 8 inches or 4x8 feet ?
If inches a poly bag sealed with strip type window caulk.
If feet, it's bigger than any bagging I've been around, but will at
least need a bigger pump
If inches a poly bag sealed with strip type window caulk.
If feet, it's bigger than any bagging I've been around, but will at
least need a bigger pump
>
>
> Either way, so that's the way the pump works, but I have to laminate 4
> pieces of 3/8 ths 4x8 into 1 3/4" section. So how does one rig the bag?
>
>
Howdy
duct tape and a flat concrete floor. :)
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
> -----Original Message-----Sorry 4x8 feet into 4x16 ft. sheet. Maybe a big sheet of plastic a roll of
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Vac pumps - Review of small pump
>
>
> 4 x 8 inches or 4x8 feet ?
>
> If inches a poly bag sealed with strip type window caulk.
>
> If feet, it's bigger than any bagging I've been around, but will at
> least need a bigger pump
>
duct tape and a flat concrete floor. :)
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
Howdy
So I got of my lazy duff and did a google search
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~flyingwing/vacbag/
http://www.pilotsguide.com/rc/vacbag.shtml
http://www.fibreglast.com/contentpages-content-230.html
http://www.info-central.org/construction_vacuumbagging.shtml
Nothing boat specific, and I still wonder how to laminate big sheets of
plywood with out screws or nails. :)
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
So I got of my lazy duff and did a google search
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~flyingwing/vacbag/
http://www.pilotsguide.com/rc/vacbag.shtml
http://www.fibreglast.com/contentpages-content-230.html
http://www.info-central.org/construction_vacuumbagging.shtml
Nothing boat specific, and I still wonder how to laminate big sheets of
plywood with out screws or nails. :)
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
>http://www.berkut13.com/sucker.htmBruce C. Anderson wrote:
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Does anyone know of a home grown system though? Or like the other fellow
> said a primer for same
>
> Thanks
>
> Bruce
>
>
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Howdy
I found this:
http://www.badger.rchomepage.com/vacbag.html
But still no bag info. :(
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
I found this:
http://www.badger.rchomepage.com/vacbag.html
But still no bag info. :(
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
Howdy
Looking at the pictures reminded me of something. I was looking at soda
syrup bags for floatation. Inside those bags is a little strip of
perforated plastic that is designed to keep the vacuum inlet from plugging
with the bag. It could probably be adapted to a vacuum bag system.
Either way, so that's the way the pump works, but I have to laminate 4
pieces of 3/8 ths 4x8 into 1 3/4" section. So how does one rig the bag?
THANKS
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
> -----Original Message-----Thanks!
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Vac pumps - Review of small pump
>
> >http://www.berkut13.com/sucker.htm
>
Looking at the pictures reminded me of something. I was looking at soda
syrup bags for floatation. Inside those bags is a little strip of
perforated plastic that is designed to keep the vacuum inlet from plugging
with the bag. It could probably be adapted to a vacuum bag system.
Either way, so that's the way the pump works, but I have to laminate 4
pieces of 3/8 ths 4x8 into 1 3/4" section. So how does one rig the bag?
THANKS
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
Howdy
said a primer for same
Thanks
Bruce
> -----Original Message-----Does anyone know of a home grown system though? Or like the other fellow
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Vac pumps - Review of small pump
>
>
> Baggers,
>
> "WOOD" magazine favorably reviews a $300 small pump
> and bag system
said a primer for same
Thanks
Bruce
Baggers,
For those interested, the November 2003 Better Homes and Gardens "WOOD"
magazine favorably reviews a $300 small pump and bag system from Quality
VAKuum Products, 800-547-5484, www.qualityvak.com.
Ford Walton
For those interested, the November 2003 Better Homes and Gardens "WOOD"
magazine favorably reviews a $300 small pump and bag system from Quality
VAKuum Products, 800-547-5484, www.qualityvak.com.
Ford Walton