Re: cold weather work
It's not all warm sunshine here. Despite our daytime highs in the 90'sF
the overnight lows are now down to 40'sF and soon will be in the 30'sF.
Burrrrrr! First frost can't be far away. Gotta start chopping firewood
for the boatshop stove.....
the overnight lows are now down to 40'sF and soon will be in the 30'sF.
Burrrrrr! First frost can't be far away. Gotta start chopping firewood
for the boatshop stove.....
>
>
> LOL!!Stop it Rick.........yer killing me :-D !!!
>
> Peter
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Heins" <eheins@c...> wrote:
Ed,
It is a device that is sold in most automobile parts place up
here and is usually used to pre-heat the interior of your car so that
you do go into shock or stick to the inside of your car( you
know,like what happens when a tongue or sweaty hand touches frozen
steel!) after it has been sitting in the driveway over night in -20
C.weather. You have to plug this thing into an outlet either near
your house/driveway or string an extension cord out to the street.
They usually have a themostat and small fan to blow that delicious
warm air arounf the interior.Monts under the dash from a bracket.
Peter lenihan
> Just a question, on these heaters. Is this something that is madefor car interior heating purposes?
Ed,
It is a device that is sold in most automobile parts place up
here and is usually used to pre-heat the interior of your car so that
you do go into shock or stick to the inside of your car( you
know,like what happens when a tongue or sweaty hand touches frozen
steel!) after it has been sitting in the driveway over night in -20
C.weather. You have to plug this thing into an outlet either near
your house/driveway or string an extension cord out to the street.
They usually have a themostat and small fan to blow that delicious
warm air arounf the interior.Monts under the dash from a bracket.
Peter lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
Peter
> Oh Peter, fall is in the air here as well, only yesterday it was102F,
> today's high plummeted down to 94F, soon it will be cold enough tokeep
> that beer cold on the boatshop shelf. THEN I'll be looking for thatcar
> warmer of Cam's......LOL!!Stop it Rick.........yer killing me :-D !!!
>
> Rick
Peter
Oh Peter, fall is in the air here as well, only yesterday it was 102F,
today's high plummeted down to 94F, soon it will be cold enough to keep
that beer cold on the boatshop shelf. THEN I'll be looking for that car
warmer of Cam's......
Rick
today's high plummeted down to 94F, soon it will be cold enough to keep
that beer cold on the boatshop shelf. THEN I'll be looking for that car
warmer of Cam's......
Rick
>
>
>
> For Rick,
> No fear,I wouldn't really wring your neck, but I might offer you
> a few cold beers from the frozen North and pretend I ain't
> respondsible for your actions thereafter :-)
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan
>
>
Just a question, on these heaters. Is this something that is made for car interior heating purposes?
I've lived in Vermont 5 yrs and knew about crankcase heaters, heated dipsticks, cooling system heaters and engine blankets but never saw a heater marketed for the inside. Reason I'm asking is that we currently keep a drop light burning in our airplane to keep the instruments warm. Seems something like y'all have would be infinitely safer.
I've lived in Vermont 5 yrs and knew about crankcase heaters, heated dipsticks, cooling system heaters and engine blankets but never saw a heater marketed for the inside. Reason I'm asking is that we currently keep a drop light burning in our airplane to keep the instruments warm. Seems something like y'all have would be infinitely safer.
----- Original Message -----
From: sctree
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2003 10:06 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: cold weather work
Oh Peter, fall is in the air here as well, only yesterday it was 102F,
today's high plummeted down to 94F, soon it will be cold enough to keep
that beer cold on the boatshop shelf. THEN I'll be looking for that car
warmer of Cam's......
Rick
>
>
>
> For Rick,
> No fear,I wouldn't really wring your neck, but I might offer you
> a few cold beers from the frozen North and pretend I ain't
> respondsible for your actions thereafter :-)
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan
>
>
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
If your epoxied work was still warm to the touch after that night it
sounds like this car heater is a great solution!
Rick
Cam Alexander wrote:
sounds like this car heater is a great solution!
Rick
Cam Alexander wrote:
> An electric car warmer is a small heater designed with a small draw[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> and is well enough insulated to sit on carpet without causing fires.
> It runs all night, and is used to keep car interiors from cooling
> down to outside temperatures, so that ill-designed cheap plastic
> parts do not snap off in your hand. I did not have a thermometer on
> the assembly, but it was warm to the touch in the morning.
>
> Cam
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Cam Alexander wrote:
> >
> > > In electric car warmer
> > > underneath, for the night.
> >
> > Not being in the frozen north I have two questions..
> >
> > What's a car warmer?
> >
> > And how much did it bring up the temp from -5C on the panel. (That
> is if
> > you had a thermometer on it)
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Rick
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=251812.4052765.5265175.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705065791:HM/A=1754451/R=0/SIG=11tfoi6qi/*http://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60178323&partid=4052765>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Cam Alexander" <calex@e...> wrote:
Don't you just feel like wringing the neck of someone who only
knows the blissful pleasures of year round outdoor warmth and whose
car probably came with air conditioning as standard equipement :-)
It drives me nutty green with envy,I tell you!
Glad to hear you are having success with your epoxy work despite the
unseasonably cold weather......have you had your Indian Summer yet?
For Rick,
No fear,I wouldn't really wring your neck, but I might offer you
a few cold beers from the frozen North and pretend I ain't
respondsible for your actions thereafter :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> It runs all night, and is used to keep car interiors from coolingCam,
> down to outside temperatures, so that ill-designed cheap plastic
> parts do not snap off in your hand. > Cam
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > What's a car warmer?
> >
> > Rick
Don't you just feel like wringing the neck of someone who only
knows the blissful pleasures of year round outdoor warmth and whose
car probably came with air conditioning as standard equipement :-)
It drives me nutty green with envy,I tell you!
Glad to hear you are having success with your epoxy work despite the
unseasonably cold weather......have you had your Indian Summer yet?
For Rick,
No fear,I wouldn't really wring your neck, but I might offer you
a few cold beers from the frozen North and pretend I ain't
respondsible for your actions thereafter :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
An electric car warmer is a small heater designed with a small draw
and is well enough insulated to sit on carpet without causing fires.
It runs all night, and is used to keep car interiors from cooling
down to outside temperatures, so that ill-designed cheap plastic
parts do not snap off in your hand. I did not have a thermometer on
the assembly, but it was warm to the touch in the morning.
Cam
and is well enough insulated to sit on carpet without causing fires.
It runs all night, and is used to keep car interiors from cooling
down to outside temperatures, so that ill-designed cheap plastic
parts do not snap off in your hand. I did not have a thermometer on
the assembly, but it was warm to the touch in the morning.
Cam
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
>
>
> Cam Alexander wrote:
>
> > In electric car warmer
> > underneath, for the night.
>
> Not being in the frozen north I have two questions..
>
> What's a car warmer?
>
> And how much did it bring up the temp from -5C on the panel. (That
is if
> you had a thermometer on it)
>
> Thanks,
> Rick
Cam Alexander wrote:
What's a car warmer?
And how much did it bring up the temp from -5C on the panel. (That is if
you had a thermometer on it)
Thanks,
Rick
> In electric car warmerNot being in the frozen north I have two questions..
> underneath, for the night.
What's a car warmer?
And how much did it bring up the temp from -5C on the panel. (That is if
you had a thermometer on it)
Thanks,
Rick
I'm in the midst of cold weather work as we speak. I'm putting the
bottom on the main hull of my Bantam 24/20, and last night it went
down to -5 C (Manitoba). My other project is trying to get the heat
into my garage, and since it is not as fun as the Bantam, it has been
lagging behind. I have been insulating my garage, and have 6 mil
poly laying about. I drape it over the piece (last night a 8 foot
section of the 24 foot hull) and stick an electric car warmer
underneath, for the night. Don't have to deal with tape, or other-
wise sealing it, since the hot air rises. I'm even using 206
hardener instead of 205, (it's all I have on hand). Just checked and
everything is cured just fine. There's probably more scientific
methods, but this works for me.
bottom on the main hull of my Bantam 24/20, and last night it went
down to -5 C (Manitoba). My other project is trying to get the heat
into my garage, and since it is not as fun as the Bantam, it has been
lagging behind. I have been insulating my garage, and have 6 mil
poly laying about. I drape it over the piece (last night a 8 foot
section of the 24 foot hull) and stick an electric car warmer
underneath, for the night. Don't have to deal with tape, or other-
wise sealing it, since the hot air rises. I'm even using 206
hardener instead of 205, (it's all I have on hand). Just checked and
everything is cured just fine. There's probably more scientific
methods, but this works for me.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
> Sounds good Roger. Just lay 'em on the table, covered with poly and
> later either return them of use them for floatation.
>
> Another solution would be adding heat below the table. Any sort of
a
> heater could be hazardous, and leaving it unattended would be
foolish.
> How about something like a few 55 gallon drums under the table,
heat
> water in another barrel over a fire of scrap wood (far away) and
> transfer the hot water to the below table barrels by garden hose.
Seal
> up the skirt and go home knowing the heat from the hot water
barrels
> will gently and safely warm the panel above for a few hours...
>
> I've also heard of, but not tried, laying thrift store electric
> blankets first over the work to pre-warm, then after glassing put
them
> back over the work (with a layer of plastic between) to maintain a
nice
> warm environment on frosty nights.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Roger Derby wrote:
>
> > Or maybe include an inch or so of the pink plastic foam board
sold for
> > sheathing houses as part of the table top?
> >
> > (They can be butt jointed ;-)
> >
> > Roger
> > derbyrm@s...
> >http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Peter Lenihan" <lestat@b...>
> >
> >
> > > Would a skirt drapped around the table help regarding heat
> > > loss from underneath the table?
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> >
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=244522.3707890.4968055.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=17
05065791:HM/A=1595055/R=0/SIG=124j83ehr/*http://ashnin.com/clk/muryuta
itakenattogyo?YH=3707890&yhad=1595055>
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930,
> > Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service
> > <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Rick and Roger,
Thanks guys! You have both given great ideas and suggestions for pursuing my hope for year end objectives! With the weather turning in bellow seasonal temperatures so soon, my lazy-bone reflex would be to just wrap the whole works up for the winter and wait for Spring. Now,I can hope to continue some craziness despite the weather :-)
Before the ideas go over board however,it may be worth noting that my all-out-doors-all-the-time boat shop is just a rented space in a large boat yard,thus no fires allowed :-( Another problem,and I do not know if this is common elsewhere,is that the place is rife with thieves! Water hoses,ladders and electrical extensions dissappear with disturbing regularity. This,of course, stiffles any hopes of laying out my 200 foot extension to provide an over night heating source.
And that "table".....well,it is just a framed out rectangle measuring 10' X 32' and sitting about 14 " off the ground. It was used to assemble the 4 main bulkheads,to recieve the righted bottom(earlier this past summer), and now to assemble the hull sides. No chance of getting much under there,including barrels of hot water........
Nevertheless,the ideas for passive solar heating and pre-heating the epoxy are greatly encouraging and will see me building late into the fading days of autumn. I just need me a stretch of sunny days!
Know too that,not only do I appreciate the moral boost:-),but that my Pesky Crew will forever hate you :-(
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,awaiting his official certificate of insanity from le ministre de la santé,from along the slate grey shores of the St.Lawrence................
_____________________________________________________________
the BoatBuilding.Communityhttp://boatbuilding.com/
the Internet boatbuilding, design and repair resource
Thanks guys! You have both given great ideas and suggestions for pursuing my hope for year end objectives! With the weather turning in bellow seasonal temperatures so soon, my lazy-bone reflex would be to just wrap the whole works up for the winter and wait for Spring. Now,I can hope to continue some craziness despite the weather :-)
Before the ideas go over board however,it may be worth noting that my all-out-doors-all-the-time boat shop is just a rented space in a large boat yard,thus no fires allowed :-( Another problem,and I do not know if this is common elsewhere,is that the place is rife with thieves! Water hoses,ladders and electrical extensions dissappear with disturbing regularity. This,of course, stiffles any hopes of laying out my 200 foot extension to provide an over night heating source.
And that "table".....well,it is just a framed out rectangle measuring 10' X 32' and sitting about 14 " off the ground. It was used to assemble the 4 main bulkheads,to recieve the righted bottom(earlier this past summer), and now to assemble the hull sides. No chance of getting much under there,including barrels of hot water........
Nevertheless,the ideas for passive solar heating and pre-heating the epoxy are greatly encouraging and will see me building late into the fading days of autumn. I just need me a stretch of sunny days!
Know too that,not only do I appreciate the moral boost:-),but that my Pesky Crew will forever hate you :-(
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,awaiting his official certificate of insanity from le ministre de la santé,from along the slate grey shores of the St.Lawrence................
_____________________________________________________________
the BoatBuilding.Communityhttp://boatbuilding.com/
the Internet boatbuilding, design and repair resource
Sounds good Roger. Just lay 'em on the table, covered with poly and
later either return them of use them for floatation.
Another solution would be adding heat below the table. Any sort of a
heater could be hazardous, and leaving it unattended would be foolish.
How about something like a few 55 gallon drums under the table, heat
water in another barrel over a fire of scrap wood (far away) and
transfer the hot water to the below table barrels by garden hose. Seal
up the skirt and go home knowing the heat from the hot water barrels
will gently and safely warm the panel above for a few hours...
I've also heard of, but not tried, laying thrift store electric
blankets first over the work to pre-warm, then after glassing put them
back over the work (with a layer of plastic between) to maintain a nice
warm environment on frosty nights.
Rick
Roger Derby wrote:
later either return them of use them for floatation.
Another solution would be adding heat below the table. Any sort of a
heater could be hazardous, and leaving it unattended would be foolish.
How about something like a few 55 gallon drums under the table, heat
water in another barrel over a fire of scrap wood (far away) and
transfer the hot water to the below table barrels by garden hose. Seal
up the skirt and go home knowing the heat from the hot water barrels
will gently and safely warm the panel above for a few hours...
I've also heard of, but not tried, laying thrift store electric
blankets first over the work to pre-warm, then after glassing put them
back over the work (with a layer of plastic between) to maintain a nice
warm environment on frosty nights.
Rick
Roger Derby wrote:
> Or maybe include an inch or so of the pink plastic foam board sold for[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> sheathing houses as part of the table top?
>
> (They can be butt jointed ;-)
>
> Roger
>derbyrm@...
>http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Lenihan" <lestat@...>
>
>
> > Would a skirt drapped around the table help regarding heat
> > loss from underneath the table?
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=244522.3707890.4968055.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705065791:HM/A=1595055/R=0/SIG=124j83ehr/*http://ashnin.com/clk/muryutaitakenattogyo?YH=3707890&yhad=1595055>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
Hey anyone who can build a boat in two languages is doing far better
than I ever will.
And yes, if you if you can skirt the table and seal it off then that
makes a good buffer to slow the cooling. You can do this after the
frantic pace if coating the panels... The enemy here is losing the heat
you gained from the sun as the day ends and night begins. Anything to
hold the heat longer will give you more cure time.....
Rick
than I ever will.
And yes, if you if you can skirt the table and seal it off then that
makes a good buffer to slow the cooling. You can do this after the
frantic pace if coating the panels... The enemy here is losing the heat
you gained from the sun as the day ends and night begins. Anything to
hold the heat longer will give you more cure time.....
Rick
>
>
> Would a skirt drapped around the table help regarding heat lose from
> underneath the table?
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan
>
>
>
Or maybe include an inch or so of the pink plastic foam board sold for
sheathing houses as part of the table top?
(They can be butt jointed ;-)
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
sheathing houses as part of the table top?
(They can be butt jointed ;-)
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Lenihan" <lestat@...>
> Would a skirt drapped around the table help regarding heat
> loss from underneath the table?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
Sorry about the misunderstanding.....I should have
written.."practical advantage to using the black poly AS APPOSED to
the clear stuff" :-).....I'm losing my English,bit by bit......
Nevertheless,your explaination is wonderfully clear and I,very
grateful!
Would a skirt drapped around the table help regarding heat lose from
underneath the table?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
>there
>
> Peter Lenihan wrote:
>
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
> > Rick,
> > Thanks for the suggestions.Based on your experience,would
> > be any practical advantage to using the black poly over the cleargain
> > stuff?
>
> Not black over the clear, use black under the clear. Think about a
> parked car. Black plastic over the windshield would block solar
> into the car, while black plastic draped over the dash and seatwould
> retain the solar gain and share it with anything in the car.Rick,
Sorry about the misunderstanding.....I should have
written.."practical advantage to using the black poly AS APPOSED to
the clear stuff" :-).....I'm losing my English,bit by bit......
Nevertheless,your explaination is wonderfully clear and I,very
grateful!
Would a skirt drapped around the table help regarding heat lose from
underneath the table?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Peter Lenihan wrote:
parked car. Black plastic over the windshield would block solar gain
into the car, while black plastic draped over the dash and seat would
retain the solar gain and share it with anything in the car.
trying to gain heat as soon as possible with the first light of dawn,
secondary was warming the soil throughout the day to keep the bed warmer
through the night. Often we used black plastic in direct contact with
the soil with slits for each plant, then of course the clear poly over
it all. Always had soil and air thermometers. Soon as the overnight lows
(air temp just after dawn) dropped below 40 F we covered. Overheating
during the day was easily resolved by opening one or both ends of the
poly. I doubt that would cause a problem for epoxy. I recall at times we
kept the planting beds as much as ten degrees above the "outside " temps
with no added heat source. Of course we had the soil as a heat sink.
Your table is going to lose heat out the bottom.
My thought is day before lay black plastic directly on the panels, over
this the clear, with a bubble of air between whether created by hoops or
forced air. (This pocket of air is important, slows the transfer of heat
from the panel to the outside) Make the perimeter airtight either way.
This should "pre-warm" your panels the next morning, always a good
thing, maybe put the unmixed epoxy containers in there also. Then
uncover and coat soon as temp is up, re-cover and gain as much from the
sun as possible. That will speed the epoxy cure and should hold the temp
well into the evening. The black on plastic on the panels wil alsol
protect them from any condensation drips off the clear.
Now how to stop the heat loss through the bottom of the table ???
Rick
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:Not black over the clear, use black under the clear. Think about a
> Rick,
> Thanks for the suggestions.Based on your experience,would there
> be any practical advantage to using the black poly over the clear
> stuff?
parked car. Black plastic over the windshield would block solar gain
into the car, while black plastic draped over the dash and seat would
retain the solar gain and share it with anything in the car.
> Also, at what temperatures would you start using theseObviously we had a different goal than what you need, primarily we were
> structures in New England?
trying to gain heat as soon as possible with the first light of dawn,
secondary was warming the soil throughout the day to keep the bed warmer
through the night. Often we used black plastic in direct contact with
the soil with slits for each plant, then of course the clear poly over
it all. Always had soil and air thermometers. Soon as the overnight lows
(air temp just after dawn) dropped below 40 F we covered. Overheating
during the day was easily resolved by opening one or both ends of the
poly. I doubt that would cause a problem for epoxy. I recall at times we
kept the planting beds as much as ten degrees above the "outside " temps
with no added heat source. Of course we had the soil as a heat sink.
Your table is going to lose heat out the bottom.
My thought is day before lay black plastic directly on the panels, over
this the clear, with a bubble of air between whether created by hoops or
forced air. (This pocket of air is important, slows the transfer of heat
from the panel to the outside) Make the perimeter airtight either way.
This should "pre-warm" your panels the next morning, always a good
thing, maybe put the unmixed epoxy containers in there also. Then
uncover and coat soon as temp is up, re-cover and gain as much from the
sun as possible. That will speed the epoxy cure and should hold the temp
well into the evening. The black on plastic on the panels wil alsol
protect them from any condensation drips off the clear.
Now how to stop the heat loss through the bottom of the table ???
Rick
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Merci Beaucoup!!!
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan,feeling inspired,from along the blustery shores of the
> St.Lawrence.......
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=259395.3614674.4902533.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705065791:HM/A=1524963/R=0/SIG=12o885gmo/*http://hits.411web.com/cgi-bin/autoredir?camp=556&lineid=3614674&prop=egroupweb&pos=HM>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
Rick,
Thanks for the suggestions.Based on your experience,would there
be any practical advantage to using the black poly over the clear
stuff? Also, at what temperatures would you start using these
structures in New England?
Merci Beaucoup!!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,feeling inspired,from along the blustery shores of the
St.Lawrence.......
That way you'll have a bathtub to hold the snow instead of a shelter for the
critters.
As to sequence, I'd suggest getting the wood (& epoxy) warm before
application. It penetrates better.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
critters.
As to sequence, I'd suggest getting the wood (& epoxy) warm before
application. It penetrates better.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Lenihan" <lestat@...>
> Peter Lenihan,absolutely hell bent on getting the hull sides done so
> that I can get my finished bottom righted before the snow flies,from
> along the shores of the Mighty St.Lawrence............
Way back, many decades ago, I lived in New England and worked in a
nursery where we extended the vegetable and flower growing season on
each end with similar tactics. Not really a greenhouse, we called them
'cold-frames' as we added no heat. If you get the edge of the plastic
down to the earth and shovel on a berm of soil around the perimeter, or
if you have an apron or an edge to the table that you can seal the
plastic to, then adding pressurized air to make a bubble of the
outermost plastic layer will greatly increase heat absorption and
retention. Won't take much air pressure, we used a collection of thrift
shop hair dryers.. (not today's hand held blowers, they were the old
style, a motor and fan in a box with a hose that lead out to a plastic
hair net). I'm sure a reversed shop vac would do the same. The best
results came from a double layer of plastic supported by some bent hoops
(to hold the plastic up off the seedlings) with the air sent in between
the two layers of plastic, sort of an inflatable roof.
Perhaps you can get a short length of plastic off a roll of continuous
tube like used by for feed storage at some feed lots (plastic tunnels
big enough to drive a tractor loader into!) , then you would only need
to seal the ends to make an airtight cover.
Check with your local commercial greenhouses for their suppliers. There
are specialty plastics for this type of thing.
Rick
Peter Lenihan wrote:
nursery where we extended the vegetable and flower growing season on
each end with similar tactics. Not really a greenhouse, we called them
'cold-frames' as we added no heat. If you get the edge of the plastic
down to the earth and shovel on a berm of soil around the perimeter, or
if you have an apron or an edge to the table that you can seal the
plastic to, then adding pressurized air to make a bubble of the
outermost plastic layer will greatly increase heat absorption and
retention. Won't take much air pressure, we used a collection of thrift
shop hair dryers.. (not today's hand held blowers, they were the old
style, a motor and fan in a box with a hose that lead out to a plastic
hair net). I'm sure a reversed shop vac would do the same. The best
results came from a double layer of plastic supported by some bent hoops
(to hold the plastic up off the seedlings) with the air sent in between
the two layers of plastic, sort of an inflatable roof.
Perhaps you can get a short length of plastic off a roll of continuous
tube like used by for feed storage at some feed lots (plastic tunnels
big enough to drive a tractor loader into!) , then you would only need
to seal the ends to make an airtight cover.
Check with your local commercial greenhouses for their suppliers. There
are specialty plastics for this type of thing.
Rick
Peter Lenihan wrote:
> Bolgerados,[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Living in a full 4 season area, I must face the oncoming
> realities of arctic temperatures.Not yet,but soon! In the mean time
> however, before the temperatures drop well bellow freezing, I would
> dearly love to be able to get a bit more work in.Namely,Payson Joint
> taping of the panels for the hull sides of WINDERMERE.
> With this happy thought in mind, I have been lazily toying
> with the notion of creating something like a mini-greenhouse to lay
> over the work until the epoxy cures. To wit, procceed with the entire
> proccess of assembling and glassing the panels together(eight per
> side) and then after the final bit of epoxy has been applied,cover
> the works with black poly vapour barrier followed by some clear poly.
> My thinking is that the black poly will warm up significantly in a
> bright sun while the over-laying clear poly will prevent the wind
> from dragging the heat away.Both of these poly sheets would be laid
> directly over the panels laid on the assembly table and stapled
> around the perimeter for relative"air-tightness". The whole affair
> measures 10' X 32' and would,I think,act like a big passive solar
> panel.
> What I would like to know from anyone experienced with
> greenhouse type structures is the following; Can I reasonably expect
> this proposal to be effective? Is there some type of scale to figure
> the temperature differentials possible with such devices? And, is
> there something essential here that I am missing to get this proposal
> to work effeciently?
> Between now and the end of October,it is unlikely the
> temperatures will get down much bellow freezing and then only
> overnight.Otherwise,average daily highs could be around 10 degrees C.
> and with a few bright sunny days thrown in to boost ones spirits,I
> would like to have the panels done.
> So, any "experts" out there willing to toss their .02cents in??
> Much appreciated!!!
>
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan,absolutely hell bent on getting the hull sides done so
> that I can get my finished bottom righted before the snow flies,from
> along the shores of the Mighty St.Lawrence............
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=259395.3614674.4902533.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705065791:HM/A=1524963/R=0/SIG=12o885gmo/*http://hits.411web.com/cgi-bin/autoredir?camp=556&lineid=3614674&prop=egroupweb&pos=HM>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
Bolgerados,
Living in a full 4 season area, I must face the oncoming
realities of arctic temperatures.Not yet,but soon! In the mean time
however, before the temperatures drop well bellow freezing, I would
dearly love to be able to get a bit more work in.Namely,Payson Joint
taping of the panels for the hull sides of WINDERMERE.
With this happy thought in mind, I have been lazily toying
with the notion of creating something like a mini-greenhouse to lay
over the work until the epoxy cures. To wit, procceed with the entire
proccess of assembling and glassing the panels together(eight per
side) and then after the final bit of epoxy has been applied,cover
the works with black poly vapour barrier followed by some clear poly.
My thinking is that the black poly will warm up significantly in a
bright sun while the over-laying clear poly will prevent the wind
from dragging the heat away.Both of these poly sheets would be laid
directly over the panels laid on the assembly table and stapled
around the perimeter for relative"air-tightness". The whole affair
measures 10' X 32' and would,I think,act like a big passive solar
panel.
What I would like to know from anyone experienced with
greenhouse type structures is the following; Can I reasonably expect
this proposal to be effective? Is there some type of scale to figure
the temperature differentials possible with such devices? And, is
there something essential here that I am missing to get this proposal
to work effeciently?
Between now and the end of October,it is unlikely the
temperatures will get down much bellow freezing and then only
overnight.Otherwise,average daily highs could be around 10 degrees C.
and with a few bright sunny days thrown in to boost ones spirits,I
would like to have the panels done.
So, any "experts" out there willing to toss their .02cents in??
Much appreciated!!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,absolutely hell bent on getting the hull sides done so
that I can get my finished bottom righted before the snow flies,from
along the shores of the Mighty St.Lawrence............
Living in a full 4 season area, I must face the oncoming
realities of arctic temperatures.Not yet,but soon! In the mean time
however, before the temperatures drop well bellow freezing, I would
dearly love to be able to get a bit more work in.Namely,Payson Joint
taping of the panels for the hull sides of WINDERMERE.
With this happy thought in mind, I have been lazily toying
with the notion of creating something like a mini-greenhouse to lay
over the work until the epoxy cures. To wit, procceed with the entire
proccess of assembling and glassing the panels together(eight per
side) and then after the final bit of epoxy has been applied,cover
the works with black poly vapour barrier followed by some clear poly.
My thinking is that the black poly will warm up significantly in a
bright sun while the over-laying clear poly will prevent the wind
from dragging the heat away.Both of these poly sheets would be laid
directly over the panels laid on the assembly table and stapled
around the perimeter for relative"air-tightness". The whole affair
measures 10' X 32' and would,I think,act like a big passive solar
panel.
What I would like to know from anyone experienced with
greenhouse type structures is the following; Can I reasonably expect
this proposal to be effective? Is there some type of scale to figure
the temperature differentials possible with such devices? And, is
there something essential here that I am missing to get this proposal
to work effeciently?
Between now and the end of October,it is unlikely the
temperatures will get down much bellow freezing and then only
overnight.Otherwise,average daily highs could be around 10 degrees C.
and with a few bright sunny days thrown in to boost ones spirits,I
would like to have the panels done.
So, any "experts" out there willing to toss their .02cents in??
Much appreciated!!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,absolutely hell bent on getting the hull sides done so
that I can get my finished bottom righted before the snow flies,from
along the shores of the Mighty St.Lawrence............