Re: [bolger] Re: PL Premium failure (don't use over epoxy?)
>I'm a fan obviously of PL glues like Gorilla Glue and I've had to tear apart
> The liquid stuff is easy to apply and has a much longer "pot life"
> than epoxy. I sometimes wonder if the foamyness might help fill the
> gap when pieces don't mate perfectly.
a whole bunch of stuff I've glued with it without a joint failure. But, I
qualify that by only including the joints that where tight. Any gap at all
and the joint is literally not holding anything. With a tight fit and boat
nails. PL so far has proven to me of being an excellent adhesive.
Jeff
>I've use a lot of the Elmers PL glue. Works great, just like Gorilla Glue.
> I didn't get the Elmers since
> I didn't want to be a pioneer into unknown glues. :)
Jeff
I just gave up on barehanding any of the adhesives and resins this
summer when I noted I was getting both respiratory and skin
reactions. Any time I'm ready to get into the stuff (any of it)
these days, I'm decked out with filtered mask, disposable latex or
nytril gloves, and longsleeved shirts. I used to be invulnerable and
immortal, but since I passed into my fifties I notice more frayed
edges and ungreased bearings...JR
summer when I noted I was getting both respiratory and skin
reactions. Any time I'm ready to get into the stuff (any of it)
these days, I'm decked out with filtered mask, disposable latex or
nytril gloves, and longsleeved shirts. I used to be invulnerable and
immortal, but since I passed into my fifties I notice more frayed
edges and ungreased bearings...JR
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
> ugh.. I remember reading some of that. I use gloves, but I will
> think twice before using it.
>
> I also have heard how poisonous is the two part polyurethane paint.
>
> Frank
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> > 2) Reading the MSDS makes chain smoking cigarettes sound benign
> relative to
> > using this stuff. It includes, for the tube version, the
statement "The
> > material fits the EPA Hazard Category definition of Immediate
> (Acute) and
> > Delayed (Chronic) health hazards under SARA Sections 311, 312."
> > Check it out before deciding it's safer than epoxy.
> >http://www.osiliterature.com/image/pdf/sP20130.pdf
> > The MSDS also has interesting stuff about fumes from burning and
the
> use of
> > water to extinguish the fire.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
apparently not as satisfactory as yours. I can believe that in a
stem assembly where the surfaces are both under compression and very
close fits, the waterproof PL would work fine. I just don't trust
the stuff for filling gaps unless I have a GOOD epoxy seal with
reinforcement above it.
> --- Roger Derby asked:See my earlier post; my recent experience with the PL as a filler is
> > True, but what are its advantages?
>
> Last year while working on my Spur II
> experiment, I was trying to scarf together
> pieces of wood for the stem. Working in
> the rain, epoxy wouldn't stick, [I tried].
> The second attempt with the $3 a pint Home
> Depot 'generic Gorilla Glue' worked great.
>
> The price is right, it fills gaps decently;
> and, in my opinion, it has good adhesive
> properties. I use it, and I also use a lot
> of Raka epoxy too.
>
> I find that the polyurethane seems to
> cure an hour faster than Fast Raka epoxy too.
apparently not as satisfactory as yours. I can believe that in a
stem assembly where the surfaces are both under compression and very
close fits, the waterproof PL would work fine. I just don't trust
the stuff for filling gaps unless I have a GOOD epoxy seal with
reinforcement above it.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
isn't as evident as with the liquid
> I've only seen it at one hardware store, but it looks and actsexactly
> the same as the stuff polyurethane glue that Elmers sells in abottle
> - which I can get at Home Depot and Lowes. Interesting behavior -it
> foams up after five minutes or so. Not as neat as epoxy. PL fromthe
> tube bubbles a little but not nearly as much.If the wood is wet, it can foam right up on you, but I agree, it
>
> Frank
>
>
isn't as evident as with the liquid
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
use. I have also heard it said that cartridge masks for organics
don't help, anyone know? I have used it oudoors without difficulty.
I have heard it said that it is fairly safe if applied with a roller,
tipped with a brush. Spraying needs a pressure suit etc. There are
one part LPUs, as you probably know.
> ugh.. I remember reading some of that. I use gloves, but I willIt is poisonous at a different tempo, it can can kill you during one
> think twice before using it.
>
> I also have heard how poisonous is the two part polyurethane paint.
>
> Frank
use. I have also heard it said that cartridge masks for organics
don't help, anyone know? I have used it oudoors without difficulty.
I have heard it said that it is fairly safe if applied with a roller,
tipped with a brush. Spraying needs a pressure suit etc. There are
one part LPUs, as you probably know.
ugh.. I remember reading some of that. I use gloves, but I will
think twice before using it.
I also have heard how poisonous is the two part polyurethane paint.
Frank
think twice before using it.
I also have heard how poisonous is the two part polyurethane paint.
Frank
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> 2) Reading the MSDS makes chain smoking cigarettes sound benign
relative to
> using this stuff. It includes, for the tube version, the statement "The
> material fits the EPA Hazard Category definition of Immediate
(Acute) and
> Delayed (Chronic) health hazards under SARA Sections 311, 312."
> Check it out before deciding it's safer than epoxy.
>http://www.osiliterature.com/image/pdf/sP20130.pdf
> The MSDS also has interesting stuff about fumes from burning and the
use of
> water to extinguish the fire.
OK, I will give it a try. However, I do love to play Devil's Advocate, so:
Regarding PL Products:
1) The Construction Adhesive is different stuff from the liquid "Wood
Repair Product." The liquid directions state that surfaces must be "clean
and dry." The Construction Adhesive just says "clean."
http://www.stickwithpl.com/products/products.asp
2) Reading the MSDS makes chain smoking cigarettes sound benign relative to
using this stuff. It includes, for the tube version, the statement "The
material fits the EPA Hazard Category definition of Immediate (Acute) and
Delayed (Chronic) health hazards under SARA Sections 311, 312."
Check it out before deciding it's safer than epoxy.
http://www.osiliterature.com/image/pdf/sP20130.pdf
The MSDS also has interesting stuff about fumes from burning and the use of
water to extinguish the fire.
Roger (I also own a roll or two of asbestos tape for insulating/sealing
stove pipes and auto exhausts.)
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
Regarding PL Products:
1) The Construction Adhesive is different stuff from the liquid "Wood
Repair Product." The liquid directions state that surfaces must be "clean
and dry." The Construction Adhesive just says "clean."
http://www.stickwithpl.com/products/products.asp
2) Reading the MSDS makes chain smoking cigarettes sound benign relative to
using this stuff. It includes, for the tube version, the statement "The
material fits the EPA Hazard Category definition of Immediate (Acute) and
Delayed (Chronic) health hazards under SARA Sections 311, 312."
Check it out before deciding it's safer than epoxy.
http://www.osiliterature.com/image/pdf/sP20130.pdf
The MSDS also has interesting stuff about fumes from burning and the use of
water to extinguish the fire.
Roger (I also own a roll or two of asbestos tape for insulating/sealing
stove pipes and auto exhausts.)
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@...>
>
> I've never used the liquid polyurethane glue on an under-water joint.
> I did some joint experiments with a hammer and two pieces of pine and
> found it to be stronger than the wood. The "film" seemed to be
> perfectly uniform where the wood was bonded together i.e. no bubbles.
>
>
> Frank
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "James W. Sloan" <jamessloan@m...> wrote:
> > >I sometimes wonder if the foamyness might >help fill the gap when
> pieces don't mate >perfectly.
> >
> > How "foamy" is foamy? I've used PL Premium (tube) and observed it
> rise somewhat and get a warty appearance, but no foam. Seems like foam
> would equate to air voids and a poor seal, for boatbuilding at least...
> >
> > James
hmm... Its kind of like a dense closed cell foam seat cushion - and
only at the edges where it sqeezes out of the joint. I can cut it
with a sharp chisel, but it is very plastic - not crispy at all.
I've never used the liquid polyurethane glue on an under-water joint.
I did some joint experiments with a hammer and two pieces of pine and
found it to be stronger than the wood. The "film" seemed to be
perfectly uniform where the wood was bonded together i.e. no bubbles.
Frank
only at the edges where it sqeezes out of the joint. I can cut it
with a sharp chisel, but it is very plastic - not crispy at all.
I've never used the liquid polyurethane glue on an under-water joint.
I did some joint experiments with a hammer and two pieces of pine and
found it to be stronger than the wood. The "film" seemed to be
perfectly uniform where the wood was bonded together i.e. no bubbles.
Frank
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "James W. Sloan" <jamessloan@m...> wrote:
> >I sometimes wonder if the foamyness might >help fill the gap when
pieces don't mate >perfectly.
>
> How "foamy" is foamy? I've used PL Premium (tube) and observed it
rise somewhat and get a warty appearance, but no foam. Seems like foam
would equate to air voids and a poor seal, for boatbuilding at least...
>
> James
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> The liquid stuff is easy to apply and has a much longer "pot life"Just so, and it cleans up with water and sands quite well. It's been said here, though,
> than epoxy. I sometimes wonder if the foamyness might help fill the
> gap when pieces don't mate perfectly.
>
> Frank San Miguel
the gap filling, hardened foam none too strong.
Mark
--- Roger Derby asked:
experiment, I was trying to scarf together
pieces of wood for the stem. Working in
the rain, epoxy wouldn't stick, [I tried].
The second attempt with the $3 a pint Home
Depot 'generic Gorilla Glue' worked great.
The price is right, it fills gaps decently;
and, in my opinion, it has good adhesive
properties. I use it, and I also use a lot
of Raka epoxy too.
I find that the polyurethane seems to
cure an hour faster than Fast Raka epoxy too.
> True, but what are its advantages?Last year while working on my Spur II
experiment, I was trying to scarf together
pieces of wood for the stem. Working in
the rain, epoxy wouldn't stick, [I tried].
The second attempt with the $3 a pint Home
Depot 'generic Gorilla Glue' worked great.
The price is right, it fills gaps decently;
and, in my opinion, it has good adhesive
properties. I use it, and I also use a lot
of Raka epoxy too.
I find that the polyurethane seems to
cure an hour faster than Fast Raka epoxy too.
>I sometimes wonder if the foamyness might >help fill the gap when pieces don't mate >perfectly.How "foamy" is foamy? I've used PL Premium (tube) and observed it rise somewhat and get a warty appearance, but no foam. Seems like foam would equate to air voids and a poor seal, for boatbuilding at least...
James
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Susan,
All of those reasons are why I used it! I built an elegant punt with
the stuff too. Herb McLeod built the prototype Michalak AF3 entirely
with PL from the tube. I think I'll send him an email to see how it's
working out after four years. Perhaps "it's just me" and not really a
problem with the PL Premium.
The liquid stuff is easy to apply and has a much longer "pot life"
than epoxy. I sometimes wonder if the foamyness might help fill the
gap when pieces don't mate perfectly.
Frank San Miguel
Landenberg, PA, USA
All of those reasons are why I used it! I built an elegant punt with
the stuff too. Herb McLeod built the prototype Michalak AF3 entirely
with PL from the tube. I think I'll send him an email to see how it's
working out after four years. Perhaps "it's just me" and not really a
problem with the PL Premium.
The liquid stuff is easy to apply and has a much longer "pot life"
than epoxy. I sometimes wonder if the foamyness might help fill the
gap when pieces don't mate perfectly.
Frank San Miguel
Landenberg, PA, USA
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Davis" <futabachan@y...> wrote:
> Roger:
> > Besides the desire to see if it works, why would one use
> > polyurethane instead of epoxy?
>
> It's cheaper? It's one-part? You won't make a smoking hockey
> puck out of it by mixing too much of it at once? Dispensing the
> tube kind from a caulking gun is a convenient way to lay down a
> fillet along a seam? You can go grab a tube from the Orange Box
> at need, rather than waiting a week for Raka to ship it to you?
> You can use it even if you're violently allergic to epoxy?
>
> I grabbed a couple of tubes to test on a Tortoise that I've had
> parts lying around for for a year or so. I haven't used it yet,
> but I'll be interested to see how well it holds up in practice,
> as the reasons for using it listed above sound pretty compelling.
>
> --
> Susan Davis <futabachan@y...>
True, but what are its advantages?
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan Davis" <futabachan@...>
> Roger:
> > Besides the desire to see if it works, why would one use
> > polyurethane instead of epoxy?
>
> It's cheaper? It's one-part? You won't make a smoking hockey
> puck out of it by mixing too much of it at once? Dispensing the
> tube kind from a caulking gun is a convenient way to lay down a
> fillet along a seam? You can go grab a tube from the Orange Box
> at need, rather than waiting a week for Raka to ship it to you?
> You can use it even if you're violently allergic to epoxy?
>
> I grabbed a couple of tubes to test on a Tortoise that I've had
> parts lying around for for a year or so. I haven't used it yet,
> but I'll be interested to see how well it holds up in practice,
> as the reasons for using it listed above sound pretty compelling.
Roger:
puck out of it by mixing too much of it at once? Dispensing the
tube kind from a caulking gun is a convenient way to lay down a
fillet along a seam? You can go grab a tube from the Orange Box
at need, rather than waiting a week for Raka to ship it to you?
You can use it even if you're violently allergic to epoxy?
I grabbed a couple of tubes to test on a Tortoise that I've had
parts lying around for for a year or so. I haven't used it yet,
but I'll be interested to see how well it holds up in practice,
as the reasons for using it listed above sound pretty compelling.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
> Besides the desire to see if it works, why would one useIt's cheaper? It's one-part? You won't make a smoking hockey
> polyurethane instead of epoxy?
puck out of it by mixing too much of it at once? Dispensing the
tube kind from a caulking gun is a convenient way to lay down a
fillet along a seam? You can go grab a tube from the Orange Box
at need, rather than waiting a week for Raka to ship it to you?
You can use it even if you're violently allergic to epoxy?
I grabbed a couple of tubes to test on a Tortoise that I've had
parts lying around for for a year or so. I haven't used it yet,
but I'll be interested to see how well it holds up in practice,
as the reasons for using it listed above sound pretty compelling.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
Besides the desire to see if it works, why would one use polyurethane
instead of epoxy?
I bought a bottle of "Gorilla Glue," read the label, and decided "I don't
need this stuff."
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
instead of epoxy?
I bought a bottle of "Gorilla Glue," read the label, and decided "I don't
need this stuff."
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@...>
> I've only seen it at one hardware store, but it looks and acts exactly
> the same as the stuff polyurethane glue that Elmers sells in a bottle
> - which I can get at Home Depot and Lowes. Interesting behavior - it
> foams up after five minutes or so. Not as neat as epoxy. PL from the
> tube bubbles a little but not nearly as much.
>
> Frank
>
Howdy
PL Premium in a tube, but none in the bottle. I didn't get the Elmers since
I didn't want to be a pioneer into unknown glues. :)
This is all very timely, since I was just about to try to build a 40/40
boat. A boat built in less than 40 hours for less than 40 dollars. I'm
building a pirogue style canoe, and was going to use the PL Premium that
came in the tube. The dilemma I'm in is that for all of the conversations
concerning PL Premium that I've been following which led up to my decision
to build this Pirogue, I thought that the glue being discussed was the PL
Premium in the tube. :( Now I will have to go into the archives and reread
all that stuff. :)
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
> -----Original Message-----I saw that bottle at Home Despot today, and wondered about that. They had
> Subject: [bolger] Re: PL Premium failure (don't use over epoxy?)
>
> I've only seen it at one hardware store, but it looks and
> acts exactly the same as the stuff polyurethane glue that
> Elmers sells in a bottle
PL Premium in a tube, but none in the bottle. I didn't get the Elmers since
I didn't want to be a pioneer into unknown glues. :)
This is all very timely, since I was just about to try to build a 40/40
boat. A boat built in less than 40 hours for less than 40 dollars. I'm
building a pirogue style canoe, and was going to use the PL Premium that
came in the tube. The dilemma I'm in is that for all of the conversations
concerning PL Premium that I've been following which led up to my decision
to build this Pirogue, I thought that the glue being discussed was the PL
Premium in the tube. :( Now I will have to go into the archives and reread
all that stuff. :)
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
I've only seen it at one hardware store, but it looks and acts exactly
the same as the stuff polyurethane glue that Elmers sells in a bottle
- which I can get at Home Depot and Lowes. Interesting behavior - it
foams up after five minutes or so. Not as neat as epoxy. PL from the
tube bubbles a little but not nearly as much.
Frank
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce C. Anderson" <bcanderson@c...>
wrote:
the same as the stuff polyurethane glue that Elmers sells in a bottle
- which I can get at Home Depot and Lowes. Interesting behavior - it
foams up after five minutes or so. Not as neat as epoxy. PL from the
tube bubbles a little but not nearly as much.
Frank
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce C. Anderson" <bcanderson@c...>
wrote:
> Howdy
>
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: PL Premium failure (don't use over epoxy?)
> >
> > PL liquid Polyurethane glue
>
> (SNIP)
>
> > Based on my personal experience, I'd say don't use the tube
> > PL Premium at all
>
> Please excuse my ignorance, I am familiar with PL Premium tube glue, but
> where do I get the PL liquid polyurethane glue?
>
> Thanks
I used a combination of silicon bronze ring nails and clamps to keep
the chine logs against the ply. It really required a lot of force:
http://www.fsanmiguel.com/boat/creamcheese/from_june.html
Because of the way the wood bends, the chine wants to open up a crack
between the upper surface (when the boat is upright) and the plywood
sides.
Frank
the chine logs against the ply. It really required a lot of force:
http://www.fsanmiguel.com/boat/creamcheese/from_june.html
Because of the way the wood bends, the chine wants to open up a crack
between the upper surface (when the boat is upright) and the plywood
sides.
Frank
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Mark <marka@h...> wrote:
> Frank,
>
> Is it correct that you just glued with no metal fastenings? Or did
it pop between them?
> Mark
>
> Frank San Miguel wrote:
>
> > Based on my personal experience, I'd say don't use the tube PL Premium
> > at all or at least don't use it in places where you have a lot of
> > stress.d
Well, that's a whole different animal. PL Premium is the stuff in the
tube, unless I'm mistaken and they now call everything PL Premium. PL,
without the qualifier "Premium", is just a brand name for a whole bunch
of different stuff. I'm sure I sanded my epoxy, too.
tube, unless I'm mistaken and they now call everything PL Premium. PL,
without the qualifier "Premium", is just a brand name for a whole bunch
of different stuff. I'm sure I sanded my epoxy, too.
>Message: 15
> Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 17:59:47 -0600 (MDT)
> From: <boatbuilding@...>
>Subject: RE: PL Premium failure (don't use over epoxy?)
>> Did it take any wood with it?, or did it come off clean
>> without any of the glued surface with it?
>
>I've had good experience with PL over epoxy but it was well
>sanded. When I had to tear it apart, the wood gave way behind
>the epoxy and the epoxy/PL joint remained intact without
>exception. It was the liquid type PL like Gorrilla Glue, not
>the construct type in a tube.
>
>Jeff
>
Clean, unfortunately. It left behind a little PL in some of the rough spots.
>MBruce C. Anderson" <bcanderson@...> wrote:
>
>Howdy Lincoln
>
>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>>> Recently had the thwart pop off
>>
>>
>Did it take any wood with it?, or did it come off clean without any of the
>glued surface with it?
>
>snip
>
Thus far, my only use of PL was tube type Premium. I used it for "tacking" some hull components in place, instead of stitching. I equated the concept to tack welds with metal and found the PL worked just great. I sanded it down some and did my epoxy fillets and tape right over the tack welds. No problems yet....
James
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
James
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Frank,
Is it correct that you just glued with no metal fastenings? Or did it pop between them?
Mark
Frank San Miguel wrote:
Is it correct that you just glued with no metal fastenings? Or did it pop between them?
Mark
Frank San Miguel wrote:
> Based on my personal experience, I'd say don't use the tube PL Premium
> at all or at least don't use it in places where you have a lot of
> stress.d
Howdy
where do I get the PL liquid polyurethane glue?
Thanks
> -----Original Message-----(SNIP)
> Subject: [bolger] Re: PL Premium failure (don't use over epoxy?)
>
> PL liquid Polyurethane glue
> Based on my personal experience, I'd say don't use the tubePlease excuse my ignorance, I am familiar with PL Premium tube glue, but
> PL Premium at all
where do I get the PL liquid polyurethane glue?
Thanks
Lincoln,
I built my AF3 as kind of an adhesive experiment. I used PL Premium
in a tube, PL liquid Polyurethane glue (like gorilla glue), PL 500
subflooring, and thickened epoxy. Unfortunately, I didn't record
exactly which joints used which glues :-) but I pretty much remember.
The PL stuff hasn't held up that well. It cracked in one corner of
the cockpit where the gap was about 3/8". I know an epoxy fillet
wouldn't have had any problem at all in that area. I also used it on
the chines and have had to repair four separate areas where the chine
had separated from the 1/4" ply (the pine 1x2 had some compound
curves). I repaired the "pops" with thickened epoxy and haven't had
any problems.
Based on my personal experience, I'd say don't use the tube PL Premium
at all or at least don't use it in places where you have a lot of
stress. I like using the liquid stuff for thinks like gluing
stiffeners to plywood sheets on my bulkheads. Since I built my AF3
I've gotten much better at mixing up batches of thickened epoxy, and I
always have a bunch on hand, so its been an easy thing for me to switch.
Frank
I built my AF3 as kind of an adhesive experiment. I used PL Premium
in a tube, PL liquid Polyurethane glue (like gorilla glue), PL 500
subflooring, and thickened epoxy. Unfortunately, I didn't record
exactly which joints used which glues :-) but I pretty much remember.
The PL stuff hasn't held up that well. It cracked in one corner of
the cockpit where the gap was about 3/8". I know an epoxy fillet
wouldn't have had any problem at all in that area. I also used it on
the chines and have had to repair four separate areas where the chine
had separated from the 1/4" ply (the pine 1x2 had some compound
curves). I repaired the "pops" with thickened epoxy and haven't had
any problems.
Based on my personal experience, I'd say don't use the tube PL Premium
at all or at least don't use it in places where you have a lot of
stress. I like using the liquid stuff for thinks like gluing
stiffeners to plywood sheets on my bulkheads. Since I built my AF3
I've gotten much better at mixing up batches of thickened epoxy, and I
always have a bunch on hand, so its been an easy thing for me to switch.
Frank
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> Recently had the thwart pop off on our (my? I can't remember) sorta
> Roar 2. It came off very easily. I think the gunwhale had some epoxy on
> it first. I'm pretty sure I sanded the epoxy, but maybe that's not
> enough to get the PL to stick. The boat has been outside for a year or
> two in harsh weather. Repaired with epoxy and hoping it holds. The
> thwart had survived some cartopping and limited use in choppy water.
> Did it take any wood with it?, or did it come off cleanI've had good experience with PL over epoxy but it was well
> without any of the glued surface with it?
>
sanded. When I had to tear it apart, the wood gave way behind
the epoxy and the epoxy/PL joint remained intact without
exception. It was the liquid type PL like Gorrilla Glue, not
the construct type in a tube.
Jeff
Recently had the thwart pop off on our (my? I can't remember) sorta
Roar 2. It came off very easily. I think the gunwhale had some epoxy on
it first. I'm pretty sure I sanded the epoxy, but maybe that's not
enough to get the PL to stick. The boat has been outside for a year or
two in harsh weather. Repaired with epoxy and hoping it holds. The
thwart had survived some cartopping and limited use in choppy water.
Roar 2. It came off very easily. I think the gunwhale had some epoxy on
it first. I'm pretty sure I sanded the epoxy, but maybe that's not
enough to get the PL to stick. The boat has been outside for a year or
two in harsh weather. Repaired with epoxy and hoping it holds. The
thwart had survived some cartopping and limited use in choppy water.
Howdy Lincoln
glued surface with it?
Thanks
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
> -----Original Message-----Did it take any wood with it?, or did it come off clean without any of the
> Subject: [bolger] PL Premium failure (don't use over epoxy?)
>
>
> Recently had the thwart pop off
glued surface with it?
Thanks
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
The hard to find, and great book:
_Voyaging on a Small Income_
is presently selling on EBay.
http://tinyurl.com/r77z
[Keeping 'on topic'], she is a
fan, and writes of, the Tortoise
as the perfect small boat tender.
I dare you to read her book
and keep your 'day job',
never more, never more...
_Voyaging on a Small Income_
is presently selling on EBay.
http://tinyurl.com/r77z
[Keeping 'on topic'], she is a
fan, and writes of, the Tortoise
as the perfect small boat tender.
I dare you to read her book
and keep your 'day job',
never more, never more...