[bolger] Re: how rip 2x4 w/circular saw
David,
I have been ripping 1 X material with a circular saw only for a long
time. I use a long piece of angle iron salvaged from an old bed frame as the
guide. First I cut the work piece to length. I clamp the angle iron guide
on the work piece with the area to be cut hanging off the side of my work
table (1/2 ply on sawhorses) . Depending on the width of the stock, various
adjustments have to be made to assure clamping tension. For example, if the
stock is narrow, I put two of them side by side and overlap another board
which is clamped for stability. Very often the frame rail is longer than
what I want to cut, so I clamp it at it's very ends to several "filler"
blocks that go between the guide and the workbench. If you do this, it is
important to assure that the work piece is held firmly enough, so sometimes I
use a thin shim or spacer to adjust the tension. With practice, and repeated
measuring of the depth of the guide on each end, the results can be quite
good. Regards, Warren
I have been ripping 1 X material with a circular saw only for a long
time. I use a long piece of angle iron salvaged from an old bed frame as the
guide. First I cut the work piece to length. I clamp the angle iron guide
on the work piece with the area to be cut hanging off the side of my work
table (1/2 ply on sawhorses) . Depending on the width of the stock, various
adjustments have to be made to assure clamping tension. For example, if the
stock is narrow, I put two of them side by side and overlap another board
which is clamped for stability. Very often the frame rail is longer than
what I want to cut, so I clamp it at it's very ends to several "filler"
blocks that go between the guide and the workbench. If you do this, it is
important to assure that the work piece is held firmly enough, so sometimes I
use a thin shim or spacer to adjust the tension. With practice, and repeated
measuring of the depth of the guide on each end, the results can be quite
good. Regards, Warren
Your mention of sawhorses reminds me of something my son said back when he
was 10. "Sawhorses which are used for boatbuiling are called SEAHORSES".
Sorry to interupt,just thought this group might enjoy it.
Best Steve Yahn, father of Geoff.
At 08:45 PM 02/27/2000 -0800, you wrote:
was 10. "Sawhorses which are used for boatbuiling are called SEAHORSES".
Sorry to interupt,just thought this group might enjoy it.
Best Steve Yahn, father of Geoff.
At 08:45 PM 02/27/2000 -0800, you wrote:
>David,
>
>What about making a few sawhorses? Then you can place
>your 2x4 on them, set a depth of cut to be a bit deeper than 2x4,
>and not to worry too much if you cut in to the sawhorse.
>
>alex
>
>
>> If you clamp it to the edge of a bench, then use a rip fence, the
>fence
>> or the saw runs into the clamps. If it isn't suspended off the side
>of
>> a bench and just laying on the floor, the saw blade goes into the
>> floor.
>
>
>
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Thanks for all your suggestions!!!
I had no idea that a circular saw was so versatile. Was thinking had to
plunk down $200 for that table saw, but with the techniques you guys
described, I can put that off for while.
Thanks!
David Routh
I had no idea that a circular saw was so versatile. Was thinking had to
plunk down $200 for that table saw, but with the techniques you guys
described, I can put that off for while.
Thanks!
David Routh
David,
What about making a few sawhorses? Then you can place
your 2x4 on them, set a depth of cut to be a bit deeper than 2x4,
and not to worry too much if you cut in to the sawhorse.
alex
What about making a few sawhorses? Then you can place
your 2x4 on them, set a depth of cut to be a bit deeper than 2x4,
and not to worry too much if you cut in to the sawhorse.
alex
> If you clamp it to the edge of a bench, then use a rip fence, thefence
> or the saw runs into the clamps. If it isn't suspended off the sideof
> a bench and just laying on the floor, the saw blade goes into the
> floor.
I have had no problems ripping with the guide! I use a straight edge
backing to help control the saw and place a 2x8 right next to it. If
you only have an 8" table saw, you are not going to cut accurately
without the help of another person, and forget about cutting the 2X4 on
the 4" axis. You would need a 10" saw for that. A cabinet maker I
know made a table extension all around his saw so that a full 4X8 sheet
of ply could be supported throughout all cuts. He built four tables
around the saw at the saw tables height. That seems to be excessive
for what we are talking here. If you are cutting mahogany or teak,
then that is another story as you cannot afford to mess up here.
richard spelling <richar-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3195
backing to help control the saw and place a 2x8 right next to it. If
you only have an 8" table saw, you are not going to cut accurately
without the help of another person, and forget about cutting the 2X4 on
the 4" axis. You would need a 10" saw for that. A cabinet maker I
know made a table extension all around his saw so that a full 4X8 sheet
of ply could be supported throughout all cuts. He built four tables
around the saw at the saw tables height. That seems to be excessive
for what we are talking here. If you are cutting mahogany or teak,
then that is another story as you cannot afford to mess up here.
richard spelling <richar-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3195
> What everyone is assuming you know is that when they refer to a "ripof
> fence" or "rip guide" for a circular saw, they are talking about a "T"
> looking piece of metal. The long part of the "T" fits into the front
> the saw in a slot, perpendicular to the blade, and the short sidedrops
> down in various fasions, and rides on the edge of the board. You ripby
> adjusting the "T", and running the saw down the length of the board,fence
> with the short side riding on the side of the board.
>
> They do. Don't get one.
> Most important things about a table saw:
> 1) accurate, easily ajustable fence.
> 2) accurate, easily ajustable blade angle/depth
>
> The conversion ones don't meet these criteria.
>
>Shorty@...wrote:
> >
> > How do you rip a 2x4 with a circular saw?
> >
> > If you clamp it to the edge of a bench, then use a rip fence, the
> > or the saw runs into the clamps. If it isn't suspended off theside of
> > a bench and just laying on the floor, the saw blade goes into thethese
> > floor.
> > I don't have a table saw. Heard they have tables that you can mount
> > your circular saw to convert it to table saw. Anyone seen one of
> > and know where I can get one?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > David Routh
> >
Richard:
I agree with you that a table saw is mandatory. There is little that a
circular hand saw will do that a table saw won't. My advice would be to get
a table saw and a good jig saw.
Chuck Leinweber
Duckworks Magazine
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com
I agree with you that a table saw is mandatory. There is little that a
circular hand saw will do that a table saw won't. My advice would be to get
a table saw and a good jig saw.
Chuck Leinweber
Duckworks Magazine
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Spelling <richard@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 9:42 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: how rip 2x4 w/circular saw
> What everyone is assuming you know is that when they refer to a "rip
> fence" or "rip guide" for a circular saw, they are talking about a "T"
> looking piece of metal. The long part of the "T" fits into the front of
> the saw in a slot, perpendicular to the blade, and the short side drops
> down in various fasions, and rides on the edge of the board. You rip by
> adjusting the "T", and running the saw down the length of the board,
> with the short side riding on the side of the board.
>
> They do. Don't get one.
> Most important things about a table saw:
> 1) accurate, easily ajustable fence.
> 2) accurate, easily ajustable blade angle/depth
>
> The conversion ones don't meet these criteria.
>
>Shorty@...wrote:
> >
> > How do you rip a 2x4 with a circular saw?
> >
> > If you clamp it to the edge of a bench, then use a rip fence, the fence
> > or the saw runs into the clamps. If it isn't suspended off the side of
> > a bench and just laying on the floor, the saw blade goes into the
> > floor.
> > I don't have a table saw. Heard they have tables that you can mount
> > your circular saw to convert it to table saw. Anyone seen one of these
> > and know where I can get one?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > David Routh
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Get what you deserve with NextCard Visa! Rates as low as 2.9%
> > Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR, online balance transfers, Rewards Points,
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> --
> Richard
> Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
> Don't have a webpage yet? Your competition does! See us for custom web
> design.
> Boat building projects:http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats/
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> -- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault
> --http://www.egroups.com/docvault/bolger/?m=1
>
>
What everyone is assuming you know is that when they refer to a "rip
fence" or "rip guide" for a circular saw, they are talking about a "T"
looking piece of metal. The long part of the "T" fits into the front of
the saw in a slot, perpendicular to the blade, and the short side drops
down in various fasions, and rides on the edge of the board. You rip by
adjusting the "T", and running the saw down the length of the board,
with the short side riding on the side of the board.
They do. Don't get one.
Most important things about a table saw:
1) accurate, easily ajustable fence.
2) accurate, easily ajustable blade angle/depth
The conversion ones don't meet these criteria.
Shorty@...wrote:
Richard
Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
Don't have a webpage yet? Your competition does! See us for custom web
design.
Boat building projects:http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats/
fence" or "rip guide" for a circular saw, they are talking about a "T"
looking piece of metal. The long part of the "T" fits into the front of
the saw in a slot, perpendicular to the blade, and the short side drops
down in various fasions, and rides on the edge of the board. You rip by
adjusting the "T", and running the saw down the length of the board,
with the short side riding on the side of the board.
They do. Don't get one.
Most important things about a table saw:
1) accurate, easily ajustable fence.
2) accurate, easily ajustable blade angle/depth
The conversion ones don't meet these criteria.
Shorty@...wrote:
>--
> How do you rip a 2x4 with a circular saw?
>
> If you clamp it to the edge of a bench, then use a rip fence, the fence
> or the saw runs into the clamps. If it isn't suspended off the side of
> a bench and just laying on the floor, the saw blade goes into the
> floor.
> I don't have a table saw. Heard they have tables that you can mount
> your circular saw to convert it to table saw. Anyone seen one of these
> and know where I can get one?
>
> Thanks!
> David Routh
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Get what you deserve with NextCard Visa! Rates as low as 2.9%
> Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR, online balance transfers, Rewards Points,
> no hidden fees, and much more! Get NextCard today and get the
> credit youdeserve! Apply now! Get your NextCard Visa at:
>http://click.egroups.com/1/929/5/_/3457/_/951654801/
>
> -- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault
> --http://www.egroups.com/docvault/bolger/?m=1
Richard
Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
Don't have a webpage yet? Your competition does! See us for custom web
design.
Boat building projects:http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats/
Hi David
short-@...wrote:
put the board on the floor (covered with particle board panels),
adjusted the cut depth to go only a hair below the board lower face,
set the lateral guide and cut through. That's it. I've a Black and
Decker, 7.25 inches dia. blase (very coarse: 12 teeth in total), about
2 hp. Very good cut, by the way. Had some more problems in cutting
lighter boards becuase they're difficult to keep from sliding around.
Best, Pippo
short-@...wrote:
> How do you rip a 2x4 with a circular saw?I ripped a mahogany 2x6, 8ft long, with my circular saw very simply: I
put the board on the floor (covered with particle board panels),
adjusted the cut depth to go only a hair below the board lower face,
set the lateral guide and cut through. That's it. I've a Black and
Decker, 7.25 inches dia. blase (very coarse: 12 teeth in total), about
2 hp. Very good cut, by the way. Had some more problems in cutting
lighter boards becuase they're difficult to keep from sliding around.
Best, Pippo
Hmmm. . . I have done this quite a few times, but I remember the first
coupld of times were difficult. I used to use an 8 inch table saw, but
gave up on that due to problems feeding the long stock accurately
singlehanded.
Here is my current procedure.
1. I use a Craftsman Industrial Grade circular saw with a thin kerf
blade.
A sharp clean blade is essential, and much safer than a dull one!
2. I clamp a relatively straight 2X8 to 4 saw horses and butt the 2X4
up against it.
3. My craftsman has a rip fence that is fairly accurate, always
measure the distance from the fence to the blade to be sure of
distance, don't rely on the printed measurements on the fence.
4. This method is quick and accurate but involves a little practice.
Happy Building
David Jostdjost@...
short-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3189
coupld of times were difficult. I used to use an 8 inch table saw, but
gave up on that due to problems feeding the long stock accurately
singlehanded.
Here is my current procedure.
1. I use a Craftsman Industrial Grade circular saw with a thin kerf
blade.
A sharp clean blade is essential, and much safer than a dull one!
2. I clamp a relatively straight 2X8 to 4 saw horses and butt the 2X4
up against it.
3. My craftsman has a rip fence that is fairly accurate, always
measure the distance from the fence to the blade to be sure of
distance, don't rely on the printed measurements on the fence.
4. This method is quick and accurate but involves a little practice.
Happy Building
David Jostdjost@...
short-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3189
> How do you rip a 2x4 with a circular saw?fence
>
> If you clamp it to the edge of a bench, then use a rip fence, the
> or the saw runs into the clamps. If it isn't suspended off the sideof
> a bench and just laying on the floor, the saw blade goes into thethese
> floor.
> I don't have a table saw. Heard they have tables that you can mount
> your circular saw to convert it to table saw. Anyone seen one of
> and know where I can get one?
>
> Thanks!
> David Routh
>
How do you rip a 2x4 with a circular saw?
If you clamp it to the edge of a bench, then use a rip fence, the fence
or the saw runs into the clamps. If it isn't suspended off the side of
a bench and just laying on the floor, the saw blade goes into the
floor.
I don't have a table saw. Heard they have tables that you can mount
your circular saw to convert it to table saw. Anyone seen one of these
and know where I can get one?
Thanks!
David Routh
If you clamp it to the edge of a bench, then use a rip fence, the fence
or the saw runs into the clamps. If it isn't suspended off the side of
a bench and just laying on the floor, the saw blade goes into the
floor.
I don't have a table saw. Heard they have tables that you can mount
your circular saw to convert it to table saw. Anyone seen one of these
and know where I can get one?
Thanks!
David Routh