[bolger] Re: Home made anchor
"Peter Vanderwaart" <pvanderw@...> wrote:
http://www.boatparts.net/anchors.htm
This is what I was looking for!
Didn't know it existed. Right price, right size...
Thanks!
David Routh
> you can buy a 8 lb Hooker "quick set" economy anchor for $13.found a picture of one:
>
http://www.boatparts.net/anchors.htm
This is what I was looking for!
Didn't know it existed. Right price, right size...
Thanks!
David Routh
Hello All
Peter Wrote:
"The substance of my remarks was that, according to the West catalog,
you can buy a 8 lb Hooker "quick set" economy anchor for $13. It will
probably work at least as well as a home made anchor, and better than a
rock. How much do you expect to save?"
Since this interesting thread seems to be dying I'll add my 2cents worth. I recently built a grapnel anchor for nothing. I was on New Zealands remote Stewart Island, with my boat. We wanted to fish over rocky reefs but I didn't want to risk losing the big CQR anchor. A grapnel can be made so it will "pull straight" and come free.
The only garage/motorshop on the island was busy but said I could raid their scrap pile and use their workshop as long as I didn't get in their way. In the scrap pile was some 10mm (3/8") rebar 750 mm (2' 6") long and water pipe about 45mm - (1 3/4") diameter, 250 mm - (10") long. A design came to mind from something I'd read in the past.
The rebar was bent into two "U"s of about with the legs close enough together to drive right though the water pipe. The top of the "U"s are driven down to form an eye for the rode.
Bend the other ends (now sticking out of the other end of the water pipe) back to form the prongs of the grapnel and cut them to an even length. A refinement is to preen the ends of the pipe to ensure the rebar can't turn inside the pipe.
This grapnel has a good heft to it due to the weight of the water pipe and works better than the cast folding or welded ones due to this weight. You only need some scrap, a hacksaw, hammer and vice to build it.
It works well over rocky bottoms, in kelp or other areas where plow/fisherman/danforth anchors foul.
Regards - Foster
Southland, New Zealand
Peter Wrote:
"The substance of my remarks was that, according to the West catalog,
you can buy a 8 lb Hooker "quick set" economy anchor for $13. It will
probably work at least as well as a home made anchor, and better than a
rock. How much do you expect to save?"
Since this interesting thread seems to be dying I'll add my 2cents worth. I recently built a grapnel anchor for nothing. I was on New Zealands remote Stewart Island, with my boat. We wanted to fish over rocky reefs but I didn't want to risk losing the big CQR anchor. A grapnel can be made so it will "pull straight" and come free.
The only garage/motorshop on the island was busy but said I could raid their scrap pile and use their workshop as long as I didn't get in their way. In the scrap pile was some 10mm (3/8") rebar 750 mm (2' 6") long and water pipe about 45mm - (1 3/4") diameter, 250 mm - (10") long. A design came to mind from something I'd read in the past.
The rebar was bent into two "U"s of about with the legs close enough together to drive right though the water pipe. The top of the "U"s are driven down to form an eye for the rode.
Bend the other ends (now sticking out of the other end of the water pipe) back to form the prongs of the grapnel and cut them to an even length. A refinement is to preen the ends of the pipe to ensure the rebar can't turn inside the pipe.
This grapnel has a good heft to it due to the weight of the water pipe and works better than the cast folding or welded ones due to this weight. You only need some scrap, a hacksaw, hammer and vice to build it.
It works well over rocky bottoms, in kelp or other areas where plow/fisherman/danforth anchors foul.
Regards - Foster
Southland, New Zealand
I wrote out a longish comment about homemade anchors last night, but it
seems to have disappeared into the bit bucket. (that's where computer
data goes when you hit 'Delete'.) So, pardon me if this is a repeat.
The substance of my remarks was that, according to the West catalog,
you can buy a 8 lb Hooker "quick set" economy anchor for $13. It will
probably work at least as well as a home made anchor, and better than a
rock. How much do you expect to save?
Peter
seems to have disappeared into the bit bucket. (that's where computer
data goes when you hit 'Delete'.) So, pardon me if this is a repeat.
The substance of my remarks was that, according to the West catalog,
you can buy a 8 lb Hooker "quick set" economy anchor for $13. It will
probably work at least as well as a home made anchor, and better than a
rock. How much do you expect to save?
Peter
I've seen old brake drums from cars uses quite effectively.
short-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3217
short-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3217
> Tough decision on which anchor to go with. Leaning towards the
> brick-on-a-string...
>
> Was hoping there was a design for a grapple or danforth made from
> galvanized angle iron & 1/4" bolts, but the bricks should suffice.
>
> Thanks for all your suggestions.
>
> David Routh
>
Tough decision on which anchor to go with. Leaning towards the
brick-on-a-string...
Was hoping there was a design for a grapple or danforth made from
galvanized angle iron & 1/4" bolts, but the bricks should suffice.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
David Routh
brick-on-a-string...
Was hoping there was a design for a grapple or danforth made from
galvanized angle iron & 1/4" bolts, but the bricks should suffice.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
David Routh
My dad always used a peice of 1.5 inch steel shaft with
some light rebar welded on one end in the form of an X
and a loop on the other to tie the ancor line to.
He could hit the end of the nylon ancor line and bend the
rebar and get the ancor back out of the rocks.
Gordon W5RED
G. C. Cougergcouger@...Stillwater, OK
www.couger.com/gcouger
"You miss 100 percent of the shots you never take." - Wayne Gretzky
some light rebar welded on one end in the form of an X
and a loop on the other to tie the ancor line to.
He could hit the end of the nylon ancor line and bend the
rebar and get the ancor back out of the rocks.
Gordon W5RED
G. C. Cougergcouger@...Stillwater, OK
www.couger.com/gcouger
"You miss 100 percent of the shots you never take." - Wayne Gretzky
----- Original Message -----
From: <Shorty@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 11:52 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Home made anchor
> Tough decision on which anchor to go with. Leaning towards the
> brick-on-a-string...
>
> Was hoping there was a design for a grapple or danforth made from
> galvanized angle iron & 1/4" bolts, but the bricks should suffice.
>
> Thanks for all your suggestions.
>
> David Routh
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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yup! Sash weights work well as "flouder pounders" get a bag of
crushed clams in an old onion sack, and bang that sash weight on the
bottom for a little bit to stir up the mud. It is like a dinner bell
for sleeping flounder.
Tie three of em together with clothesline or whatever and you have a
suitable small boat anchor (temporary). I use one to mark my mooring
location while we put in the 150lb mushroom during servicing.
David Jost
"epoxy weather in Boston" :-)
"samson family" <bill.samso-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3202
crushed clams in an old onion sack, and bang that sash weight on the
bottom for a little bit to stir up the mud. It is like a dinner bell
for sleeping flounder.
Tie three of em together with clothesline or whatever and you have a
suitable small boat anchor (temporary). I use one to mark my mooring
location while we put in the 150lb mushroom during servicing.
David Jost
"epoxy weather in Boston" :-)
"samson family" <bill.samso-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3202
> Hi,are
>
> Here in the UK we have lots of sash windows that use cast iron
> counterweights - which are readily available at scrap yards. These
> often used as anchors for little fishing boats - they get a goodenough grip
> in the mud, and won't snag on anything.dia steel
>
> If you can't get a 'real' one it's simply a foot-long length of 2"
> with a hole in one end to tie the rope. No flukes or anycomplications.
>the
> Of course they wouldn't be great in a strong stream, but for holding
> boat while you picnic or fish - couldn't be more convenient.
>
> Bill
>
Hi,
Here in the UK we have lots of sash windows that use cast iron
counterweights - which are readily available at scrap yards. These are
often used as anchors for little fishing boats - they get a good enough grip
in the mud, and won't snag on anything.
If you can't get a 'real' one it's simply a foot-long length of 2" dia steel
with a hole in one end to tie the rope. No flukes or any complications.
Of course they wouldn't be great in a strong stream, but for holding the
boat while you picnic or fish - couldn't be more convenient.
Bill
Here in the UK we have lots of sash windows that use cast iron
counterweights - which are readily available at scrap yards. These are
often used as anchors for little fishing boats - they get a good enough grip
in the mud, and won't snag on anything.
If you can't get a 'real' one it's simply a foot-long length of 2" dia steel
with a hole in one end to tie the rope. No flukes or any complications.
Of course they wouldn't be great in a strong stream, but for holding the
boat while you picnic or fish - couldn't be more convenient.
Bill