Re: Question on Halyards for Gaff Rig (Light Schooner)
Ah, now that makes good, practical sense! Are you sure film is a good
place for you to be working? ;)
Thanks a bunch! I think that'll give me a little confidence to 'play
around'!
Callan
place for you to be working? ;)
Thanks a bunch! I think that'll give me a little confidence to 'play
around'!
Callan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> Okay, I've studied and studied the plans, and I *think* that there is
> not a block or anything needed to 'stop' the gaff at the top of a gaff
> rig.
>
> I raise the gaff in a more or less horizontal orientation by pulling
> both halyards. This will keep the jaws from binding. I find it easier
> to judge when the thing is high enough by looking at the jaws on the
> boom than by looking 12 feet up to the jaw on the gaff.
>
> Once I get it where I want it, I pull up a little more because I
> always loose a little in the process of making the throat halyard
> fast to the cleat. That's probably because I'm usually rigging the
> boat myself and only have two hands for the two halyards. I find I
> can allow the peak halyard sag quite a bit while fiddling the throat.
>
> Once the throat is tied off, pull the peak halyard taught. Again, I
> find judging by the end of the boom to be the easiest/most precise.
>
> Once the mainsail is up, I like to put up the jib. No tricks there.
>
> Then put up the foresail in the same manner as the main.
>
> I think that one of the things that can be inferred from Bolger's
> designs and writings is that many aspects of sailing are not nearly
> as precise as all the stainless steel hardware you see on production
> boats might make you think. Put the sails up too high, the boat heels
> a bit more. Put them up too low and you get hit on the ass as you
> duck under the boom. Either way, no big deal
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
> --
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> Mobile (646) 325-8325
> Office (212) 247-0296
Okay, I've studied and studied the plans, and I *think* that there is
not a block or anything needed to 'stop' the gaff at the top of a gaff
rig.
I raise the gaff in a more or less horizontal orientation by pulling
both halyards. This will keep the jaws from binding. I find it easier
to judge when the thing is high enough by looking at the jaws on the
boom than by looking 12 feet up to the jaw on the gaff.
Once I get it where I want it, I pull up a little more because I
always loose a little in the process of making the throat halyard
fast to the cleat. That's probably because I'm usually rigging the
boat myself and only have two hands for the two halyards. I find I
can allow the peak halyard sag quite a bit while fiddling the throat.
Once the throat is tied off, pull the peak halyard taught. Again, I
find judging by the end of the boom to be the easiest/most precise.
Once the mainsail is up, I like to put up the jib. No tricks there.
Then put up the foresail in the same manner as the main.
I think that one of the things that can be inferred from Bolger's
designs and writings is that many aspects of sailing are not nearly
as precise as all the stainless steel hardware you see on production
boats might make you think. Put the sails up too high, the boat heels
a bit more. Put them up too low and you get hit on the ass as you
duck under the boom. Either way, no big deal
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
not a block or anything needed to 'stop' the gaff at the top of a gaff
rig.
I raise the gaff in a more or less horizontal orientation by pulling
both halyards. This will keep the jaws from binding. I find it easier
to judge when the thing is high enough by looking at the jaws on the
boom than by looking 12 feet up to the jaw on the gaff.
Once I get it where I want it, I pull up a little more because I
always loose a little in the process of making the throat halyard
fast to the cleat. That's probably because I'm usually rigging the
boat myself and only have two hands for the two halyards. I find I
can allow the peak halyard sag quite a bit while fiddling the throat.
Once the throat is tied off, pull the peak halyard taught. Again, I
find judging by the end of the boom to be the easiest/most precise.
Once the mainsail is up, I like to put up the jib. No tricks there.
Then put up the foresail in the same manner as the main.
I think that one of the things that can be inferred from Bolger's
designs and writings is that many aspects of sailing are not nearly
as precise as all the stainless steel hardware you see on production
boats might make you think. Put the sails up too high, the boat heels
a bit more. Put them up too low and you get hit on the ass as you
duck under the boom. Either way, no big deal
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
> there is not a block or anything needed to 'stop' the gaffIf I follow your question, then my answer is, yes, that's right, so
> at the top of a gaff rig.
stop.
With my catboat, the process was to raise the both halyards (keeping
the gaff approximately horizontal) until the boom jaws had risen to a
predetermined point. Cleat the throat halyard. Raise the peak halyard
until there were minor wrinkles in the sail from the peak to the
tack. Cleat the peak halyard.
If you had a downhaul at the boom jaws, then that would get tightened
either after belaying the throat halyard, or at the end. You would
have to work out what was best for you.
If you don't raise the peak halyard until you get wrinkles from peak
to tack, the almost certainly by the time you get the peak halyard
cleated, there will be wrinkles from throat to tack, and you would
want to peak up the sail a bit. Stretch in the halyards is much more
apparent in gaff rig.
So, to answer your question in another way, you don't need a stop on
the peak halyard because "over-raising" would be obvious from
wrinkles in the sail.
Peter
You tie the bottom of the sail down, or let the weight of the boom hold it down. Then, you pull on the throat halyard and peak
halyard at the same time to raise the sail till the part next to the mast (leach) is tight. Then you pull only the peak halyard till
the luff (trailing edge) is tight.
halyard at the same time to raise the sail till the part next to the mast (leach) is tight. Then you pull only the peak halyard till
the luff (trailing edge) is tight.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Callan Hale" <calhale@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 9:19 AM
Subject: [bolger] Question on Halyards for Gaff Rig (Light Schooner)
> Okay, I've studied and studied the plans, and I *think* that there is
> not a block or anything needed to 'stop' the gaff at the top of a gaff
> rig.
>
> I thought I might ask if anyone with some experience putting up a gaf
> rig the 'Bolger' way could clarify that for me (as I am not certain).
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
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>
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>
>
Okay, I've studied and studied the plans, and I *think* that there is
not a block or anything needed to 'stop' the gaff at the top of a gaff
rig.
I thought I might ask if anyone with some experience putting up a gaf
rig the 'Bolger' way could clarify that for me (as I am not certain).
not a block or anything needed to 'stop' the gaff at the top of a gaff
rig.
I thought I might ask if anyone with some experience putting up a gaf
rig the 'Bolger' way could clarify that for me (as I am not certain).