Re: another glass idea
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
I'm sorry......I did not go into greater detail.Was distracted
by a list of things to do before the BOSS came home.
But yes,I was suggesting the use of 2 layers of same width
tape.The 8 over 6 method is best used when not routing while aiming
for a reasonably hump free junction.
Your proposed ideas of tucking finished fiberglass edges under
a rub rail or toe rail after wrapping them over the deck sound
alright by me,especially with stiff shapes like those alluring Bolger
Boxes.
While it is true that for the chines and other underwater
parts "only the fishes and mermaids will notice",it will become
plainly visible for all to see come haul out time:-( Beyond that,I
must confess that I try to improve my methods/techniques which each
new boat.I really do want to build as best I can each time and try to
aim for near perfection. I have yet to succeed,thank God,but this is
what drives me. I'm one sick puppy Nels and sometimes miss the lost
innocence of my first boat where its simple floating on the water was
as close to a miracle as I have ever witnessed.
Happy Winter!
Peter Lenihan
> To Wit. We have these two beautifully glassed panels that we wantto
> join together at right angles - say for the sake of argument alongtape,
> the topside/deck joint. And we want to use two layers of 45/45
> one say 6 inches wide and the next 8 inches wide (As recommended bywith
> most FS experts.) And then we want this all to blend in together
> the afore - mentioned glassed panels with no unsightly lumps as younot
> suggest.
>
> I agree fully that we should not grind away any of the tape that is
> holding the joint secure, but routing a "step" on each edge does
> look all that great a solution unless we use instead two layers ofHi Nels,
> tape the same width?
>
> This seems to have me baffled somewhat.
I'm sorry......I did not go into greater detail.Was distracted
by a list of things to do before the BOSS came home.
But yes,I was suggesting the use of 2 layers of same width
tape.The 8 over 6 method is best used when not routing while aiming
for a reasonably hump free junction.
Your proposed ideas of tucking finished fiberglass edges under
a rub rail or toe rail after wrapping them over the deck sound
alright by me,especially with stiff shapes like those alluring Bolger
Boxes.
While it is true that for the chines and other underwater
parts "only the fishes and mermaids will notice",it will become
plainly visible for all to see come haul out time:-( Beyond that,I
must confess that I try to improve my methods/techniques which each
new boat.I really do want to build as best I can each time and try to
aim for near perfection. I have yet to succeed,thank God,but this is
what drives me. I'm one sick puppy Nels and sometimes miss the lost
innocence of my first boat where its simple floating on the water was
as close to a miracle as I have ever witnessed.
Happy Winter!
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <lestat@b...> wrote:
I thank you most graciously for the proffered information earlier.
Perhaps you just backed off a bit here - from another item that you
inadvertantly broached with your "biased" opinions about 45/45 tapes -
a bit too soon because the brain cells became a bit weary?
But you did, my piratical GoFS, open up a vision in my head that is
creating some turbulence in the inner spaces between my own ear holes.
To Wit. We have these two beautifully glassed panels that we want to
join together at right angles - say for the sake of argument along
the topside/deck joint. And we want to use two layers of 45/45 tape,
one say 6 inches wide and the next 8 inches wide (As recommended by
most FS experts.) And then we want this all to blend in together with
the afore - mentioned glassed panels with no unsightly lumps as you
suggest.
I agree fully that we should not grind away any of the tape that is
holding the joint secure, but routing a "step" on each edge does not
look all that great a solution unless we use instead two layers of
tape the same width?
This seems to have me baffled somewhat.
Perhaps the best solution for that would be to leave the glassing of
the deck until last and use heavier weight glass after all - and
carry it down over the topsides to end with a small ridge UNDER the
rubstrake, which has a space routed out to accept this ridge, No
grinding or routing of the plywood at all. Another option may be to
install the toerail over the offending ridge on the deck? Any other
ideas? I am mostly interested in ones that require no grinding or
sanding or routing:-)
Now for the chines it does not matter so much as any extra layer will
just add to the abrasion barrier and only the fishes and mermaids
will notice:-)
Nels (Admiring the clean white expanses sparkling under the
streetlights)
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@r...> wrote:the
> > If routing edge of wood for tape to stick, wouldn't it be much
> better to
> > taper the edge of the routed area so it's feathered than to be
> butting
> > the tape against the outer ply?
>
>
> Hi Lincoln,
> Yes,I suppose that would work too but we're notching up
> finicky work load a bit too much for this lazy bum:-)Hi Peter,
>
>
>
> Of course then if you want it to be
> > pretty you have to grind.
>
> And that is what I try to avoid,whenever my guard is down :-D
>
>
> Peter Lenihan
I thank you most graciously for the proffered information earlier.
Perhaps you just backed off a bit here - from another item that you
inadvertantly broached with your "biased" opinions about 45/45 tapes -
a bit too soon because the brain cells became a bit weary?
But you did, my piratical GoFS, open up a vision in my head that is
creating some turbulence in the inner spaces between my own ear holes.
To Wit. We have these two beautifully glassed panels that we want to
join together at right angles - say for the sake of argument along
the topside/deck joint. And we want to use two layers of 45/45 tape,
one say 6 inches wide and the next 8 inches wide (As recommended by
most FS experts.) And then we want this all to blend in together with
the afore - mentioned glassed panels with no unsightly lumps as you
suggest.
I agree fully that we should not grind away any of the tape that is
holding the joint secure, but routing a "step" on each edge does not
look all that great a solution unless we use instead two layers of
tape the same width?
This seems to have me baffled somewhat.
Perhaps the best solution for that would be to leave the glassing of
the deck until last and use heavier weight glass after all - and
carry it down over the topsides to end with a small ridge UNDER the
rubstrake, which has a space routed out to accept this ridge, No
grinding or routing of the plywood at all. Another option may be to
install the toerail over the offending ridge on the deck? Any other
ideas? I am mostly interested in ones that require no grinding or
sanding or routing:-)
Now for the chines it does not matter so much as any extra layer will
just add to the abrasion barrier and only the fishes and mermaids
will notice:-)
Nels (Admiring the clean white expanses sparkling under the
streetlights)
If routing edge of wood for tape to stick, wouldn't it be much better to
taper the edge of the routed area so it's feathered than to be butting
the tape against the outer ply? Of course then if you want it to be
pretty you have to grind.
taper the edge of the routed area so it's feathered than to be butting
the tape against the outer ply? Of course then if you want it to be
pretty you have to grind.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
Yes,I suppose that would work too but we're notching up the
finicky work load a bit too much for this lazy bum:-)
Of course then if you want it to be
Peter Lenihan
> If routing edge of wood for tape to stick, wouldn't it be muchbetter to
> taper the edge of the routed area so it's feathered than to bebutting
> the tape against the outer ply?Hi Lincoln,
Yes,I suppose that would work too but we're notching up the
finicky work load a bit too much for this lazy bum:-)
Of course then if you want it to be
> pretty you have to grind.And that is what I try to avoid,whenever my guard is down :-D
Peter Lenihan