Re: Northern Lights
It's certainly not true that the purpose of a fillet is solely to
provide a curved surface for the glass. But if your engineering
concept is that the boat you are building would not require the
strength of the fillet (which can be enough by itself without any
glass), then just put the glass in without any fillet, that's
perfectly acceptable. It can be pre-molded over an abs pipe, for a
rounded chine effect, or scrunched hard to the inside corner, or let
hot flash and then tooled into the joint, or you can radius masking
tape and fire it over that. I don't see much harm in any caulk used
in the joint, it just seems like a possible contaminant, and extra
weight and expense.
provide a curved surface for the glass. But if your engineering
concept is that the boat you are building would not require the
strength of the fillet (which can be enough by itself without any
glass), then just put the glass in without any fillet, that's
perfectly acceptable. It can be pre-molded over an abs pipe, for a
rounded chine effect, or scrunched hard to the inside corner, or let
hot flash and then tooled into the joint, or you can radius masking
tape and fire it over that. I don't see much harm in any caulk used
in the joint, it just seems like a possible contaminant, and extra
weight and expense.
Hi All -
Hey, hey, you guys' got me all excited and last noght I was out checking for those Northern Lights. But all I saw was the bottom of my glass of Southern Comfort.
Aloha - Jack Spoering - Ft Lauderdale, Florida
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hey, hey, you guys' got me all excited and last noght I was out checking for those Northern Lights. But all I saw was the bottom of my glass of Southern Comfort.
Aloha - Jack Spoering - Ft Lauderdale, Florida
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Northern Lights were trully spectacular from the shores of Fundy last night. Scarsely a blink of light pollution. They appeared to imminate from straight overhead, like looking up inside a giant teepee. There was a period of red intensity to the east lasting 30 min. or so that was breath taking. Gotta love those sun spots.
jeb, out standing in the middle of Russia Road in the dark, shouting "ENCORE! ENCORE!", above the crashing shores of Fundy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
jeb, out standing in the middle of Russia Road in the dark, shouting "ENCORE! ENCORE!", above the crashing shores of Fundy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At 7:00 PM in Westborough, Massachusetts, the Northern Lights were
simply fantastic!!! One of the most amazing events I have ever
witnessed. At 8:00 PM it was all but over.
The lights were visible ENE.
David Jost
in the burbs of Boston.
simply fantastic!!! One of the most amazing events I have ever
witnessed. At 8:00 PM it was all but over.
The lights were visible ENE.
David Jost
in the burbs of Boston.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank Bales" <fbales@l...> wrote:
Nope! We had a bit of cloud cover/haze and darned if I could
get far enough away from the loom of the city lights.Wanted to take a
drive up North but my attorney told me to get my sorry a** back
inside before she gives me some"Northern Lights"..........what a
sport:-(
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,watching the rain clouds rolling back in after several
hours absence...........
> Peter, my Canadian wife was outside tonight looking for northernlights
> since the news said they might be visible this far south becauseof "Mr..
> Sun," but she didn't see any. How about you? --FrankFrank,
Nope! We had a bit of cloud cover/haze and darned if I could
get far enough away from the loom of the city lights.Wanted to take a
drive up North but my attorney told me to get my sorry a** back
inside before she gives me some"Northern Lights"..........what a
sport:-(
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,watching the rain clouds rolling back in after several
hours absence...........
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Chamberland" <cha62759@t...>
wrote:
have much in the way of directions.
Here is the entire set of directions from my can. (Plan)
"General: All plywood is intended to be from 3/8" X 4' X 8'. May be
thicker up to 1/2" for greater resistance to local impact and
generally more solid sensation, traded agains added cost, increased
trailer weight, and (probably slight) reduction in performance.
Natural wood can be any species having good gluing properties.
Relatively soft, flexible types, spruce, fir or cedar are preferable
to hard and stiff woods except where "hard" is specified. Fastenings
can be screws or ring nails mostly 1" long. External fiberglass
sheathing typically one layer of 10 oz. cloth, is recommended for
ease of finish and maintenance. It is not needed for structural
reasons."
Certainly this is enough information, particularly when combined with
a copy of the appropriate Payson book. But on the other hand, when
some of these olders designs were drawn up - Payson was still
recommending polyester resins!
Seems perhaps the new designs may come with more written intructions
by the sound of what Peter tells us. That is why a forum such as this
is so valuable I would suggest.
Thanks for all the advice!
Cheers, Nels
wrote:
> As a postscript to this wise advice I would suggest that a lot ofspeak.
> questions are answered by "reading the directions on the can" so to
> Bob ChamberlandAlthough I agree to that advice - for some of us - "the can" doesn't
have much in the way of directions.
Here is the entire set of directions from my can. (Plan)
"General: All plywood is intended to be from 3/8" X 4' X 8'. May be
thicker up to 1/2" for greater resistance to local impact and
generally more solid sensation, traded agains added cost, increased
trailer weight, and (probably slight) reduction in performance.
Natural wood can be any species having good gluing properties.
Relatively soft, flexible types, spruce, fir or cedar are preferable
to hard and stiff woods except where "hard" is specified. Fastenings
can be screws or ring nails mostly 1" long. External fiberglass
sheathing typically one layer of 10 oz. cloth, is recommended for
ease of finish and maintenance. It is not needed for structural
reasons."
Certainly this is enough information, particularly when combined with
a copy of the appropriate Payson book. But on the other hand, when
some of these olders designs were drawn up - Payson was still
recommending polyester resins!
Seems perhaps the new designs may come with more written intructions
by the sound of what Peter tells us. That is why a forum such as this
is so valuable I would suggest.
Thanks for all the advice!
Cheers, Nels
As a postscript to this wise advice I would suggest that a lot of
questions are answered by "reading the directions on the can" so to speak.
Bob Chamberland
questions are answered by "reading the directions on the can" so to speak.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <lestat@b...> wrote:
> Perhaps it would not be a bad idea to perhaps mention that my
> particular approach,at present,regarding the application of glass
> fibers is guided by the designers instructions regarding his
> WINDERMERE design.The heaviest build up of glass is all concentrated
> on the bottom structures.To wit; 1 layer of 10oz glass UNDER the
> shoe,followed by 3 layers of 10oz glass over the shoe,fillet
> pieces,box-keel and hull bottom.The box-keel proper has an additional
> layer of 10oz glass extending 16 feet back from the stem.
> The topsides,roof top etc...get but a single layer of glass.
> Certainly it can be expected that some prefer less glass while others
> might suggest more. Being nothing more then a lazy boat bum who
> happens to love lots of cold beer, I am compelled to stick with my
> Heros specs if only for the sake of a good nights sleep :-)
> I also whole heartedly encourage other amateur builders to follow the
> scantlings and schedules called out for by their designer since I
> believe this leads to much less grief over the long haul.
>
> Happy building to all:-)
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan,about to take a late night stroll in the hope of seeing
> some vivid displays of the Northern lights thanks to our burping
> solar furnace,Mr Sun.
Peter, my Canadian wife was outside tonight looking for northern lights
since the news said they might be visible this far south because of "Mr..
Sun," but she didn't see any. How about you? --Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:lestat@...]
Peter Lenihan,about to take a late night stroll in the hope of seeing
some vivid displays of the Northern lights thanks to our burping
solar furnace,Mr Sun.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
since the news said they might be visible this far south because of "Mr..
Sun," but she didn't see any. How about you? --Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:lestat@...]
Peter Lenihan,about to take a late night stroll in the hope of seeing
some vivid displays of the Northern lights thanks to our burping
solar furnace,Mr Sun.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Perhaps it would not be a bad idea to perhaps mention that my
particular approach,at present,regarding the application of glass
fibers is guided by the designers instructions regarding his
WINDERMERE design.The heaviest build up of glass is all concentrated
on the bottom structures.To wit; 1 layer of 10oz glass UNDER the
shoe,followed by 3 layers of 10oz glass over the shoe,fillet
pieces,box-keel and hull bottom.The box-keel proper has an additional
layer of 10oz glass extending 16 feet back from the stem.
The topsides,roof top etc...get but a single layer of glass.
Certainly it can be expected that some prefer less glass while others
might suggest more. Being nothing more then a lazy boat bum who
happens to love lots of cold beer, I am compelled to stick with my
Heros specs if only for the sake of a good nights sleep :-)
I also whole heartedly encourage other amateur builders to follow the
scantlings and schedules called out for by their designer since I
believe this leads to much less grief over the long haul.
Happy building to all:-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,about to take a late night stroll in the hope of seeing
some vivid displays of the Northern lights thanks to our burping
solar furnace,Mr Sun.
particular approach,at present,regarding the application of glass
fibers is guided by the designers instructions regarding his
WINDERMERE design.The heaviest build up of glass is all concentrated
on the bottom structures.To wit; 1 layer of 10oz glass UNDER the
shoe,followed by 3 layers of 10oz glass over the shoe,fillet
pieces,box-keel and hull bottom.The box-keel proper has an additional
layer of 10oz glass extending 16 feet back from the stem.
The topsides,roof top etc...get but a single layer of glass.
Certainly it can be expected that some prefer less glass while others
might suggest more. Being nothing more then a lazy boat bum who
happens to love lots of cold beer, I am compelled to stick with my
Heros specs if only for the sake of a good nights sleep :-)
I also whole heartedly encourage other amateur builders to follow the
scantlings and schedules called out for by their designer since I
believe this leads to much less grief over the long haul.
Happy building to all:-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,about to take a late night stroll in the hope of seeing
some vivid displays of the Northern lights thanks to our burping
solar furnace,Mr Sun.