Re: [bolger] Drill Press or Drill Guide?
if i had some holes to drill and they had to be square/strait, id take
a chunk of alluminum or mabee oak, 4" and take it to a drill press and
make a drill guide. you would not even have to use the full size bit it
could just be a pilot hole you drill with the jig,
if you live where there are harbor tool and frieght, they have decent
drill presses, i have one and know some others that do also, we all
like ours!! and saved some money.. good luck
a chunk of alluminum or mabee oak, 4" and take it to a drill press and
make a drill guide. you would not even have to use the full size bit it
could just be a pilot hole you drill with the jig,
if you live where there are harbor tool and frieght, they have decent
drill presses, i have one and know some others that do also, we all
like ours!! and saved some money.. good luck
On Sunday, November 9, 2003, at 06:07 PM, Dawn and Derek wrote:
> Hi David
>
> >> If you were going to have one, which would it be? <<
>
> I'd have a smallish drillpress, a bench model. At ten bucks a Harken
> sheave
> you could save the cost of a cheap press just by using it to make the
> sheaves for your new blocks. Fitted with a $5 drum it makes a useful
> sander.
> Spinning a felt wheel it makes an effective sharpening system. With
> only
> moderate ingenuity it is possible to swing the motor assembly on its
> post
> allowing long (tall) workpieces to be clamped up the leg of the
> supporting
> bench.
>
> >> If you were going to have both, which would you buy first? <<
>
> I've eyed up a number of those drillmotor jigs, and haven't felt the
> need to
> augment my drillpress yet. It's not like I'm immune to the 'toolaholic'
> urges either....
>
> My 2c worth, YMMV.
>
> The ballpeen hammer thimbles didn't work too well for me - things
> tended to
> slip out of alignment too easily. Two large ball bearings and a vice
> proved
> more controllable. Most of the blocks on Moriarty are worked with
> grommets
> made through snap hooks or carabiners, the grommets then being seized
> into
> place round the block. If you intend unhooking the rigging much
> there's a
> lot of time to be saved over using thimbles and keyed shackles.
>
> Thats 4c. Have fun.
> cheers
> Derek
>
>
<image.tiff>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
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> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
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> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi David
you could save the cost of a cheap press just by using it to make the
sheaves for your new blocks. Fitted with a $5 drum it makes a useful sander.
Spinning a felt wheel it makes an effective sharpening system. With only
moderate ingenuity it is possible to swing the motor assembly on its post
allowing long (tall) workpieces to be clamped up the leg of the supporting
bench.
augment my drillpress yet. It's not like I'm immune to the 'toolaholic'
urges either....
My 2c worth, YMMV.
The ballpeen hammer thimbles didn't work too well for me - things tended to
slip out of alignment too easily. Two large ball bearings and a vice proved
more controllable. Most of the blocks on Moriarty are worked with grommets
made through snap hooks or carabiners, the grommets then being seized into
place round the block. If you intend unhooking the rigging much there's a
lot of time to be saved over using thimbles and keyed shackles.
Thats 4c. Have fun.
cheers
Derek
>> If you were going to have one, which would it be? <<I'd have a smallish drillpress, a bench model. At ten bucks a Harken sheave
you could save the cost of a cheap press just by using it to make the
sheaves for your new blocks. Fitted with a $5 drum it makes a useful sander.
Spinning a felt wheel it makes an effective sharpening system. With only
moderate ingenuity it is possible to swing the motor assembly on its post
allowing long (tall) workpieces to be clamped up the leg of the supporting
bench.
>> If you were going to have both, which would you buy first? <<I've eyed up a number of those drillmotor jigs, and haven't felt the need to
augment my drillpress yet. It's not like I'm immune to the 'toolaholic'
urges either....
My 2c worth, YMMV.
The ballpeen hammer thimbles didn't work too well for me - things tended to
slip out of alignment too easily. Two large ball bearings and a vice proved
more controllable. Most of the blocks on Moriarty are worked with grommets
made through snap hooks or carabiners, the grommets then being seized into
place round the block. If you intend unhooking the rigging much there's a
lot of time to be saved over using thimbles and keyed shackles.
Thats 4c. Have fun.
cheers
Derek
Hi David,
Long drill bits are another way to go - the human eye is remarkably good at keeping things square (or especially parallel) if you give it something long enough and the right perspective - helps to have a spotter standing off a bit. You can accomplish a very long, straight bore this way. --Fritz
Long drill bits are another way to go - the human eye is remarkably good at keeping things square (or especially parallel) if you give it something long enough and the right perspective - helps to have a spotter standing off a bit. You can accomplish a very long, straight bore this way. --Fritz
> I've once again buggered up a job because I can't keep my drill
> square to my project. A simple $100 drill press would do the job,
David,
I used one of the better portable drill guides and really found it to work well. While it wasn't on a boat project, much of the requisite drilling was similar (I build one of those MASSIVE wood playsets for my daughter).
Be sure to get one with an adjustable depth stop and a "cradle" on the upper part of the base for round stock or edge drilling. I think I paid something around $30 for mine at Lowe's.
James
I used one of the better portable drill guides and really found it to work well. While it wasn't on a boat project, much of the requisite drilling was similar (I build one of those MASSIVE wood playsets for my daughter).
Be sure to get one with an adjustable depth stop and a "cradle" on the upper part of the base for round stock or edge drilling. I think I paid something around $30 for mine at Lowe's.
James
----- Original Message -----
From: David Ryan
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2003 7:59 AM
Subject: [bolger] Drill Press or Drill Guide?
FBBB,
I've once again buggered up a job because I can't keep my drill
square to my project. A simple $100 drill press would do the job, but
I'm tempted by the drill guides that you see in things like the
Rockler catalog. Not only is it cheaper (about $50) but it can be
taken to the project, which seems like it might be handy.
If you were going to have one, which would it be? If you were going
to have both, which would you buy first?
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My vote for "stationary" power tools would be:
1) table saw
2) drill press (floor model)
3) band saw
A drill press likes a level floor, but isn't too fussy. I've moved mine
with a hand truck on occasion.
A bench style drill press needs a bench and that costs much more than the
few dollars extra for the added column length of a floor model. Besides,
the table can be swung out of the way and large pieces drilled if necessary.
The gadgets; e.g. drill guides have never seemed to me to be worth the
trouble. I can screw up a project with the best of guides.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
1) table saw
2) drill press (floor model)
3) band saw
A drill press likes a level floor, but isn't too fussy. I've moved mine
with a hand truck on occasion.
A bench style drill press needs a bench and that costs much more than the
few dollars extra for the added column length of a floor model. Besides,
the table can be swung out of the way and large pieces drilled if necessary.
The gadgets; e.g. drill guides have never seemed to me to be worth the
trouble. I can screw up a project with the best of guides.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ryan" <david@...>
> I've once again buggered up a job because I can't keep my drill
> square to my project. A simple $100 drill press would do the job, but
> I'm tempted by the drill guides that you see in things like the
> Rockler catalog. Not only is it cheaper (about $50) but it can be
> taken to the project, which seems like it might be handy.
>
> If you were going to have one, which would it be? If you were going
> to have both, which would you buy first?
FBBB,
I've once again buggered up a job because I can't keep my drill
square to my project. A simple $100 drill press would do the job, but
I'm tempted by the drill guides that you see in things like the
Rockler catalog. Not only is it cheaper (about $50) but it can be
taken to the project, which seems like it might be handy.
If you were going to have one, which would it be? If you were going
to have both, which would you buy first?
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
I've once again buggered up a job because I can't keep my drill
square to my project. A simple $100 drill press would do the job, but
I'm tempted by the drill guides that you see in things like the
Rockler catalog. Not only is it cheaper (about $50) but it can be
taken to the project, which seems like it might be handy.
If you were going to have one, which would it be? If you were going
to have both, which would you buy first?
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296