[bolger] Re: Home made table saws
Chuck,
Here are the plans, better late than never I suppose,
david
Here are the plans, better late than never I suppose,
david
CPCorreia@... wrote:
David,
I would love a copy of this for interest sake, but I've been put off
a bit
from my original post by all the talk of losing fingers and being chased
by a
runaway saw!
Chuck C., FS, on the banks of the Suisun Slough, contemplating a long
life
with 10 fingers.
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David Ryan,
Whatevah.... Maybe you should try to lighten up a little. The caution
sign was turned on a long time ago, and nobody's arguing with you,
david
Whatevah.... Maybe you should try to lighten up a little. The caution
sign was turned on a long time ago, and nobody's arguing with you,
david
David Ryan wrote:
>My point was not that factory tools are just as dangerous as
half-baked home-made jobbies.
Rather, it was that the most experience users given all the
advantages in safety and ergonomic design still manage to have their
situation go from "just fine" to "completely unacceptable" in the
blink of an eye.
With regard to hokey home-made saw rigs, to quote from our name sake
(when commenting on some only slighly more ill-advised modifications
to, and uses of the LS Margaret Ellen,) "The worst case scenarios
range from embarrassing to fatal."
I'm quite willing to risk death (if the risk is very slight,) for a
little glory. But I'm quite sure I'm not willing to risk the
embarrassment of cutting off my own finger because I couldn't find
$100 for an incredibly useful tool.
Yes, you could do the same stupid thing with a Rockwell, but at least
you wouldn't have spend the rest your life explaining why you were
using a Rockwell....
Chuck,
I used one and I still had ten fingers, last time I counted. My father has 9 2/3
fingers, but he lost the end of the one to a bone infection in childhood, not his
saw. As Dave Ryan pointed out, plenty of people cut off fingers with expensive
saws (and planes, jointers, routers, drills, you name it) as well. Frankly, I'm
afraid of all my power tools no matter what they cost. It's a healthy attitude to
maintain as long as it inspires caution instead of hysteria. I'll send you the
plans as soon as I get my daughter (the computer czarina) to help me with the
multileveled graphics program that has to be negotiated to get the picture from
the scanner to Netscape. Btw, how many people have injured themselves while
trying to beat their computers into submission?
CPCorreia@...wrote:
I used one and I still had ten fingers, last time I counted. My father has 9 2/3
fingers, but he lost the end of the one to a bone infection in childhood, not his
saw. As Dave Ryan pointed out, plenty of people cut off fingers with expensive
saws (and planes, jointers, routers, drills, you name it) as well. Frankly, I'm
afraid of all my power tools no matter what they cost. It's a healthy attitude to
maintain as long as it inspires caution instead of hysteria. I'll send you the
plans as soon as I get my daughter (the computer czarina) to help me with the
multileveled graphics program that has to be negotiated to get the picture from
the scanner to Netscape. Btw, how many people have injured themselves while
trying to beat their computers into submission?
CPCorreia@...wrote:
> In a message dated 3/1/00 9:50:37 AM Pacific Standard Time,galvind@...
> writes:
>
> << I can scan the Fred Bingham design and send it off. The book
> was published in 1983 and no longer in print, I think, so we wouldn't
> be violating copyright law,
> david >>
>
> David,
>
> I would love a copy of this for interest sake, but I've been put off a bit
> from my original post by all the talk of losing fingers and being chased by a
> runaway saw!
>
> Chuck C., FS, on the banks of the Suisun Slough, contemplating a long life
> with 10 fingers.....
Or you can replace the original bench saw top with a homemade. All it
takes is to drill holes for 8 bolts (Delta and B&D models) and chisel a
bit underneath the motor mounts. This way you could still use a stock
blade guard, through mine was unworthy. I would be more concern with
jury-rigged fences like the one Bill described below, since even a
small slant of a fence towards the back of the blade can result in
injury. And I agree with Bill that reaping narrow stuff is dangerous -
use pushsticks and featherboards.
At any rate, in my books, a table saw is only as good as its fence, and
good fences are expensive. Which might make a decent used table saw a
better deal. I took a different route and build a table for both a
router and the old bench saw, so I felt less guilty talking myself into
Incra fence...
I have to admit that building my own table saw was almost as enjoyable
as building a boat
alex
"william d> jochems" <wjochem-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3333
takes is to drill holes for 8 bolts (Delta and B&D models) and chisel a
bit underneath the motor mounts. This way you could still use a stock
blade guard, through mine was unworthy. I would be more concern with
jury-rigged fences like the one Bill described below, since even a
small slant of a fence towards the back of the blade can result in
injury. And I agree with Bill that reaping narrow stuff is dangerous -
use pushsticks and featherboards.
At any rate, in my books, a table saw is only as good as its fence, and
good fences are expensive. Which might make a decent used table saw a
better deal. I took a different route and build a table for both a
router and the old bench saw, so I felt less guilty talking myself into
Incra fence...
I have to admit that building my own table saw was almost as enjoyable
as building a boat
alex
"william d> jochems" <wjochem-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3333
> Bolgeristas,fences. A
> The worst features of bench saws are the small tops and flimsy
> new top, 2 or 3 times larger than original, can be made of half inchply and
> bolted down to the original top. Cut an opening for the blade anddraw a
> series of lines all the way across the new top parallel to the blade.Then
> use a very straight board about 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 as a fence, which youalign
> with the pencil lines and secure with a "C" clamp at either end. Thealso
> improvement is well worth the small loss of depth of cut. But, it's
> more dangerous since you no longer have a guard. Incidentally, I'mtold that
> the most frequent injury is from pulling small boards through. Theblade can
> drive the board backwards, dragging the pulling hand into the blade.when
> Bill Jochems----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Vanderwaart <pvanderw@...>
> To:bolger@...<bolger@...>
> Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 10:23 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Home made table saws
>
>
> >
> >To: Cheap saw enthusiasts
> >
> >Once upon a time, about 1974, a friend who was enthused about
> >woodworking got me a little enthused about boatbuilding. This was
> >I started the my Elegant Punt.foot
> >
> >I acted on his idea for a table saw which was to buy a very
> >inexpensive, small table saw, the top surface of which is about a
> >square. It is powered by a separately purchased electric motor via aand
> >belt. I can't remeber if the cost was $30 total, or $30 for the saw
> >$30 for the motor. These things were probably advertised in the backof
> >Popular Science.the
> >
> >Following my friend's suggestions, this small saw was set flush in
> >surface of a rough, homemade wooden table (2'x4'). I dadoed a groovepiled
> >for a guide for the stock.
> >
> >This contrivence has not been used in years, but I still have it,
> >two feet high with junk, mostly useless pieces of scrap wood. I will
> >certainly never use it. If I ever need a table saw I will buy a
> >sensible used saw from the classified ads or eBay. Or Home Depot.
> >
> >If anyone wants it, e-mail me. You can find my unabridged e-mail
> >address at
> >http://members.xoom.com/vandepI'm in Connecticut.
> >
> >Peter in Stamford, CT who is really more interested in design than
> >building, more mathematician than wood butcher, more computer
> >programmer than wood finisher.
> >
> >
The book is published by International Marine, Camden, Maine
I can copy a couple of pages for you if your library does not
have it. Email me atalexm@...
alex
cpcorrei-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3312
I can copy a couple of pages for you if your library does not
have it. Email me atalexm@...
alex
cpcorrei-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3312
> In a message dated 2/29/00 9:30:23 PM Pacific Standard Time,alexm@...
> writes:
>
> << It's inaccurate and rather dangerous contraption, but, if you
> are into it, check "Boat Joinery and Cabinetmaking Simplified"
> by Fred Bingham. He calls it a $5 saw.
> >>
>
> Where would you find this?
>
>Chuck,saws (and planes, jointers, routers, drills, you name it) as well. Frankly,
>I used one and I still had ten fingers, last time I counted. My
>father has 9 2/3
>fingers, but he lost the end of the one to a bone infection in
>childhood, not his
>saw. As Dave Ryan pointed out, plenty of people cut off fingers with expensive
My point was not that factory tools are just as dangerous as
half-baked home-made jobbies.
Rather, it was that the most experience users given all the
advantages in safety and ergonomic design still manage to have their
situation go from "just fine" to "completely unacceptable" in the
blink of an eye.
With regard to hokey home-made saw rigs, to quote from our name sake
(when commenting on some only slighly more ill-advised modifications
to, and uses of the LS Margaret Ellen,) "The worst case scenarios
range from embarrassing to fatal."
I'm quite willing to risk death (if the risk is very slight,) for a
little glory. But I'm quite sure I'm not willing to risk the
embarrassment of cutting off my own finger because I couldn't find
$100 for an incredibly useful tool.
Yes, you could do the same stupid thing with a Rockwell, but at least
you wouldn't have spend the rest your life explaining why you were
using a Rockwell.
David Ryan
Minister of Information and Culture
Crumbling Empire Productions
(212) 247-0296
On Wed, 1 Mar 2000, david wrote:
very well be considered fair use.
Get a copy from the library, it's great!
Chris Crandallcrandall@...(785) 864-4131
Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045
I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.
> sure that the pedigree goes back further than that. If anyone wants aJust one a fine point, the copyright still obtains. HOwever, this might
> copy, I can scan the Fred Bingham design and send it off. The book was
> published in 1983 and no longer in print, I think, so we wouldn't be
> violating copyright law, david
very well be considered fair use.
Get a copy from the library, it's great!
Chris Crandallcrandall@...(785) 864-4131
Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045
I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.
Bolgeristas,
The worst features of bench saws are the small tops and flimsy fences. A
new top, 2 or 3 times larger than original, can be made of half inch ply and
bolted down to the original top. Cut an opening for the blade and draw a
series of lines all the way across the new top parallel to the blade. Then
use a very straight board about 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 as a fence, which you align
with the pencil lines and secure with a "C" clamp at either end. The
improvement is well worth the small loss of depth of cut. But, it's also
more dangerous since you no longer have a guard. Incidentally, I'm told that
the most frequent injury is from pulling small boards through. The blade can
drive the board backwards, dragging the pulling hand into the blade.
Bill Jochems----Original Message-----
From: Peter Vanderwaart <pvanderw@...>
To:bolger@...<bolger@...>
Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 10:23 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Home made table saws
The worst features of bench saws are the small tops and flimsy fences. A
new top, 2 or 3 times larger than original, can be made of half inch ply and
bolted down to the original top. Cut an opening for the blade and draw a
series of lines all the way across the new top parallel to the blade. Then
use a very straight board about 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 as a fence, which you align
with the pencil lines and secure with a "C" clamp at either end. The
improvement is well worth the small loss of depth of cut. But, it's also
more dangerous since you no longer have a guard. Incidentally, I'm told that
the most frequent injury is from pulling small boards through. The blade can
drive the board backwards, dragging the pulling hand into the blade.
Bill Jochems----Original Message-----
From: Peter Vanderwaart <pvanderw@...>
To:bolger@...<bolger@...>
Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 10:23 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Home made table saws
>
>To: Cheap saw enthusiasts
>
>Once upon a time, about 1974, a friend who was enthused about
>woodworking got me a little enthused about boatbuilding. This was when
>I started the my Elegant Punt.
>
>I acted on his idea for a table saw which was to buy a very
>inexpensive, small table saw, the top surface of which is about a foot
>square. It is powered by a separately purchased electric motor via a
>belt. I can't remeber if the cost was $30 total, or $30 for the saw and
>$30 for the motor. These things were probably advertised in the back of
>Popular Science.
>
>Following my friend's suggestions, this small saw was set flush in the
>surface of a rough, homemade wooden table (2'x4'). I dadoed a groove
>for a guide for the stock.
>
>This contrivence has not been used in years, but I still have it, piled
>two feet high with junk, mostly useless pieces of scrap wood. I will
>certainly never use it. If I ever need a table saw I will buy a
>sensible used saw from the classified ads or eBay. Or Home Depot.
>
>If anyone wants it, e-mail me. You can find my unabridged e-mail
>address at
>http://members.xoom.com/vandepI'm in Connecticut.
>
>Peter in Stamford, CT who is really more interested in design than
>building, more mathematician than wood butcher, more computer
>programmer than wood finisher.
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>GET A NEXTCARD VISA, in 30 seconds! Get rates as low as 0.0%
>Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR and no hidden fees. Apply NOW!
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>
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>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
In a message dated 3/1/00 9:50:37 AM Pacific Standard Time,galvind@...
writes:
<< I can scan the Fred Bingham design and send it off. The book
was published in 1983 and no longer in print, I think, so we wouldn't
be violating copyright law,
david >>
David,
I would love a copy of this for interest sake, but I've been put off a bit
from my original post by all the talk of losing fingers and being chased by a
runaway saw!
Chuck C., FS, on the banks of the Suisun Slough, contemplating a long life
with 10 fingers.
writes:
<< I can scan the Fred Bingham design and send it off. The book
was published in 1983 and no longer in print, I think, so we wouldn't
be violating copyright law,
david >>
David,
I would love a copy of this for interest sake, but I've been put off a bit
from my original post by all the talk of losing fingers and being chased by a
runaway saw!
Chuck C., FS, on the banks of the Suisun Slough, contemplating a long life
with 10 fingers.
Alex,
Thanks for the post. I have this book and never noticed Fred's saw
design. It is certainly more elegant, and perhaps safer, than mine. I
never noticed Jim Michalak's article either, which, I guess, reveals
something about my miserable powers of observation....
The actual origin of the table saw conversion is lost in history. apparently.
I got the idea from my father, who built one in the 1950's from a design
he thinks he spotted in a late '40's edition of _Mechanix Illustrated_. I'm
sure that the pedigree goes back further than that. If anyone wants
a copy, I can scan the Fred Bingham design and send it off. The book
was published in 1983 and no longer in print, I think, so we wouldn't
be violating copyright law,
david
Thanks for the post. I have this book and never noticed Fred's saw
design. It is certainly more elegant, and perhaps safer, than mine. I
never noticed Jim Michalak's article either, which, I guess, reveals
something about my miserable powers of observation....
The actual origin of the table saw conversion is lost in history. apparently.
I got the idea from my father, who built one in the 1950's from a design
he thinks he spotted in a late '40's edition of _Mechanix Illustrated_. I'm
sure that the pedigree goes back further than that. If anyone wants
a copy, I can scan the Fred Bingham design and send it off. The book
was published in 1983 and no longer in print, I think, so we wouldn't
be violating copyright law,
david
alex wrote:
It's inaccurate and rather dangerous contraption, but, if you
are into it, check "Boat Joinery and Cabinetmaking Simplified"
by Fred Bingham. He calls it a $5 saw.
alex
short-@... wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3309
> Well after all the suggestions about ripping 2x4's, I decided not
to
> persue circular saw conversion table. 20 minutes later, I was
reading
> one of Jim Michalak's back issues:
>
>http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/1999/0115/index.htm
>
> "I have a homemade table saw that is just a circular saw mounted
on a
1"
> plywood plate, about 20" x 30". It is blocked off the floor about
12"
-
> just enough to take the saw. The saw's trigger is clamped in the
"on"
> position and the rig starts when I plug it in. ..."
>
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Hi,
I would like a copy also please.
jamar@...
TIA
James
I would like a copy also please.
jamar@...
TIA
James
----- Original Message -----
From: <CPCorreia@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 1:13 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Home made table saws
> In a message dated 3/1/00 9:50:37 AM Pacific Standard Time,
galvind@...
> writes:
>
> << I can scan the Fred Bingham design and send it off. The book
> was published in 1983 and no longer in print, I think, so we wouldn't
> be violating copyright law,
> david >>
>
> David,
>
> I would love a copy of this for interest sake, but I've been put off a bit
> from my original post by all the talk of losing fingers and being chased
by a
> runaway saw!
>
> Chuck C., FS, on the banks of the Suisun Slough, contemplating a long life
> with 10 fingers.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> GET A NEXTCARD VISA, in 30 seconds! Get rates
> as low as 0.0% Intro APR and no hidden fees.
> Apply NOW!
>http://click.egroups.com/1/975/5/_/3457/_/951941627/
>
> -- Create a poll/survey for your group!
> --http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=bolger&m=1
>
>
I've used my share of home rigged saws..... however.
Last year I picked up a PRO- TECH brand 10" bench saw at Lowe's (a Home
Depot type chain) for $139 complete with metal stand that makes it into
a table saw. Though the saw body is made of reinforced plastic, the
table is cast and ground. The fence, T square, blade depth and tilt
controls all work fine, and plenty accurately for my purposes. I use our
ping pong table as my "out feed" support and ripping is a pleasure. I
know it's not free like a rigged circular saw, but it's paid for itself
already in lower frustration.
David Beede
david wrote:
the last few days earning the money I hope to waste on more boats....
WARNING: what follows is advice that, if followed, could cause loss
of limb or life to the user or an innocent bystander. The author assumes
no responsibility for any such misadventure....
With a little thought any hand circular saw can be fitted under a
table. I used to see tables designed for just that purpose in Sears and
elsewhere, but one can also be built without too much trouble. They are
probably no longer available commercially because of the safety concerns
(and attendant litigation) that goes with marketing such a device. I
made one from an old wooden card table and a sheet of 3/8" Masonite for
a top. To fasten the saw to the bottom of the Masonite I used flathead
machine screws set through countersunk holes in the Masonite and into
holes drilled into the saw's base plate. I secured it with lock washers
and wing nuts (the wing nuts are so you can quickly free the saw for use
as a hand held when the need arises). If you don't want to drill holes
in your brand new saw, the screws can go into lengths of angle iron that
cross the base plate on either side of the blade and also hold the saw
firmly to the table. The main trick (and annoyance) of such a rig is
fussing with the fence to ensure that it's parallel to the blade before
a rip cut. You can fasten the fence to the table with C-clamps. Of
course, you cannot use a dado set with this gear, and the depth of the
cut is a little limited, but for routine ripping to about 1 3/4" it
beats trying to do it with the saw in hand-held mode. As for running the
saw, I would just jam a wedge into the trigger hole and start and stop
it with a switched outlet, but you can get fancy and install a proper
cut-off switch on the table and plug the saw into that. Just remember,
whatever you do, that these things eat fingers and other appendages at
the slightest provocation, so be very careful. I always worried that the
wing nuts would work loose from the vibration and the saw would fall on
the ground and start chasing me (seriously). After building some storm
windows and my first boat with my home made table saw, I grew
sufficiently fearful of the thing to overcome my inborn cheapness and
buy a real table saw...
david
SOME CLICKS THAT COUNT!!
Feed someone.
http://www.thehungersite.com/
Save a little rain forest.
http://rainforest.care2.com/front.html/player12296
Simplicity Boats (& mirror sites)
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/index.html
http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/index.html
Here's my latest boat:
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/featherwind.html
http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/featherwind.html
Quasi esoteric musical instruments
http://unicornstrings.com
Last year I picked up a PRO- TECH brand 10" bench saw at Lowe's (a Home
Depot type chain) for $139 complete with metal stand that makes it into
a table saw. Though the saw body is made of reinforced plastic, the
table is cast and ground. The fence, T square, blade depth and tilt
controls all work fine, and plenty accurately for my purposes. I use our
ping pong table as my "out feed" support and ripping is a pleasure. I
know it's not free like a rigged circular saw, but it's paid for itself
already in lower frustration.
David Beede
david wrote:
>Sorry about the delayed response to your query, but I've been busy
> Chuck,
the last few days earning the money I hope to waste on more boats....
WARNING: what follows is advice that, if followed, could cause loss
of limb or life to the user or an innocent bystander. The author assumes
no responsibility for any such misadventure....
With a little thought any hand circular saw can be fitted under a
table. I used to see tables designed for just that purpose in Sears and
elsewhere, but one can also be built without too much trouble. They are
probably no longer available commercially because of the safety concerns
(and attendant litigation) that goes with marketing such a device. I
made one from an old wooden card table and a sheet of 3/8" Masonite for
a top. To fasten the saw to the bottom of the Masonite I used flathead
machine screws set through countersunk holes in the Masonite and into
holes drilled into the saw's base plate. I secured it with lock washers
and wing nuts (the wing nuts are so you can quickly free the saw for use
as a hand held when the need arises). If you don't want to drill holes
in your brand new saw, the screws can go into lengths of angle iron that
cross the base plate on either side of the blade and also hold the saw
firmly to the table. The main trick (and annoyance) of such a rig is
fussing with the fence to ensure that it's parallel to the blade before
a rip cut. You can fasten the fence to the table with C-clamps. Of
course, you cannot use a dado set with this gear, and the depth of the
cut is a little limited, but for routine ripping to about 1 3/4" it
beats trying to do it with the saw in hand-held mode. As for running the
saw, I would just jam a wedge into the trigger hole and start and stop
it with a switched outlet, but you can get fancy and install a proper
cut-off switch on the table and plug the saw into that. Just remember,
whatever you do, that these things eat fingers and other appendages at
the slightest provocation, so be very careful. I always worried that the
wing nuts would work loose from the vibration and the saw would fall on
the ground and start chasing me (seriously). After building some storm
windows and my first boat with my home made table saw, I grew
sufficiently fearful of the thing to overcome my inborn cheapness and
buy a real table saw...
david
>From: "Chuck" <cpcorreia@...>become a
>Reply-To:bolger@...
>To:bolger@...
>Subject: [bolger] Help! I need to buy a saw for boat building!
>Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 14:26:06 -0800
>
>OK Guys,
>
>I need an electric saw. What should I get....
>....Are there saws that can be attached upside down to a table and
>sort of table saw, so you could have both?...--
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> eGroups.com Home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
> www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
SOME CLICKS THAT COUNT!!
Feed someone.
http://www.thehungersite.com/
Save a little rain forest.
http://rainforest.care2.com/front.html/player12296
Simplicity Boats (& mirror sites)
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/index.html
http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/index.html
Here's my latest boat:
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/featherwind.html
http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/featherwind.html
Quasi esoteric musical instruments
http://unicornstrings.com
For an alternative (supposedly safe and
accurate) table saw route, you might check out 'The Jimmy Jig' - basically a
sliding table and fence intended to enhance the capabilities of those low cost
bench top saws. With some ingenuity applied, it might make a good table saw out
of a good hand held. Haven't used it, YMMV etc.
You'll find it athttp://www.island.net/~macduff/
Derek
To: Cheap saw enthusiasts
Once upon a time, about 1974, a friend who was enthused about
woodworking got me a little enthused about boatbuilding. This was when
I started the my Elegant Punt.
I acted on his idea for a table saw which was to buy a very
inexpensive, small table saw, the top surface of which is about a foot
square. It is powered by a separately purchased electric motor via a
belt. I can't remeber if the cost was $30 total, or $30 for the saw and
$30 for the motor. These things were probably advertised in the back of
Popular Science.
Following my friend's suggestions, this small saw was set flush in the
surface of a rough, homemade wooden table (2'x4'). I dadoed a groove
for a guide for the stock.
This contrivence has not been used in years, but I still have it, piled
two feet high with junk, mostly useless pieces of scrap wood. I will
certainly never use it. If I ever need a table saw I will buy a
sensible used saw from the classified ads or eBay. Or Home Depot.
If anyone wants it, e-mail me. You can find my unabridged e-mail
address at
http://members.xoom.com/vandepI'm in Connecticut.
Peter in Stamford, CT who is really more interested in design than
building, more mathematician than wood butcher, more computer
programmer than wood finisher.
Once upon a time, about 1974, a friend who was enthused about
woodworking got me a little enthused about boatbuilding. This was when
I started the my Elegant Punt.
I acted on his idea for a table saw which was to buy a very
inexpensive, small table saw, the top surface of which is about a foot
square. It is powered by a separately purchased electric motor via a
belt. I can't remeber if the cost was $30 total, or $30 for the saw and
$30 for the motor. These things were probably advertised in the back of
Popular Science.
Following my friend's suggestions, this small saw was set flush in the
surface of a rough, homemade wooden table (2'x4'). I dadoed a groove
for a guide for the stock.
This contrivence has not been used in years, but I still have it, piled
two feet high with junk, mostly useless pieces of scrap wood. I will
certainly never use it. If I ever need a table saw I will buy a
sensible used saw from the classified ads or eBay. Or Home Depot.
If anyone wants it, e-mail me. You can find my unabridged e-mail
address at
http://members.xoom.com/vandepI'm in Connecticut.
Peter in Stamford, CT who is really more interested in design than
building, more mathematician than wood butcher, more computer
programmer than wood finisher.
In a message dated 2/29/00 9:30:23 PM Pacific Standard Time,alexm@...
writes:
<< It's inaccurate and rather dangerous contraption, but, if you
are into it, check "Boat Joinery and Cabinetmaking Simplified"
by Fred Bingham. He calls it a $5 saw.
writes:
<< It's inaccurate and rather dangerous contraption, but, if you
are into it, check "Boat Joinery and Cabinetmaking Simplified"
by Fred Bingham. He calls it a $5 saw.
>>Where would you find this?
Well after all the suggestions about ripping 2x4's, I decided not to
persue circular saw conversion table. 20 minutes later, I was reading
one of Jim Michalak's back issues:
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/1999/0115/index.htm
"I have a homemade table saw that is just a circular saw mounted on a 1"
plywood plate, about 20" x 30". It is blocked off the floor about 12" -
just enough to take the saw. The saw's trigger is clamped in the "on"
position and the rig starts when I plug it in. ..."
persue circular saw conversion table. 20 minutes later, I was reading
one of Jim Michalak's back issues:
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/1999/0115/index.htm
"I have a homemade table saw that is just a circular saw mounted on a 1"
plywood plate, about 20" x 30". It is blocked off the floor about 12" -
just enough to take the saw. The saw's trigger is clamped in the "on"
position and the rig starts when I plug it in. ..."
It's inaccurate and rather dangerous contraption, but, if you
are into it, check "Boat Joinery and Cabinetmaking Simplified"
by Fred Bingham. He calls it a $5 saw.
alex
short-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3309
are into it, check "Boat Joinery and Cabinetmaking Simplified"
by Fred Bingham. He calls it a $5 saw.
alex
short-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3309
> Well after all the suggestions about ripping 2x4's, I decided not to1"
> persue circular saw conversion table. 20 minutes later, I was reading
> one of Jim Michalak's back issues:
>
>http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/1999/0115/index.htm
>
> "I have a homemade table saw that is just a circular saw mounted on a
> plywood plate, about 20" x 30". It is blocked off the floor about 12"-
> just enough to take the saw. The saw's trigger is clamped in the "on"
> position and the rig starts when I plug it in. ..."
>
Chuck,
Sorry about the delayed response to your query, but I've been busy
the last few days earning the money I hope to waste on more boats....
WARNING: what follows is advice that, if followed, could cause loss
of limb or life to the user or an innocent bystander. The author assumes
no responsibility for any such misadventure....
With a little thought any hand circular saw can be fitted under a
table. I used to see tables designed for just that purpose in Sears and
elsewhere, but one can also be built without too much trouble. They are
probably no longer available commercially because of the safety concerns
(and attendant litigation) that goes with marketing such a device. I
made one from an old wooden card table and a sheet of 3/8" Masonite for
a top. To fasten the saw to the bottom of the Masonite I used flathead
machine screws set through countersunk holes in the Masonite and into
holes drilled into the saw's base plate. I secured it with lock washers
and wing nuts (the wing nuts are so you can quickly free the saw for use
as a hand held when the need arises). If you don't want to drill holes
in your brand new saw, the screws can go into lengths of angle iron that
cross the base plate on either side of the blade and also hold the saw
firmly to the table. The main trick (and annoyance) of such a rig is
fussing with the fence to ensure that it's parallel to the blade before
a rip cut. You can fasten the fence to the table with C-clamps. Of
course, you cannot use a dado set with this gear, and the depth of the
cut is a little limited, but for routine ripping to about 1 3/4" it
beats trying to do it with the saw in hand-held mode. As for running the
saw, I would just jam a wedge into the trigger hole and start and stop
it with a switched outlet, but you can get fancy and install a proper
cut-off switch on the table and plug the saw into that. Just remember,
whatever you do, that these things eat fingers and other appendages at
the slightest provocation, so be very careful. I always worried that the
wing nuts would work loose from the vibration and the saw would fall on
the ground and start chasing me (seriously). After building some storm
windows and my first boat with my home made table saw, I grew
sufficiently fearful of the thing to overcome my inborn cheapness and
buy a real table saw...
david
Sorry about the delayed response to your query, but I've been busy
the last few days earning the money I hope to waste on more boats....
WARNING: what follows is advice that, if followed, could cause loss
of limb or life to the user or an innocent bystander. The author assumes
no responsibility for any such misadventure....
With a little thought any hand circular saw can be fitted under a
table. I used to see tables designed for just that purpose in Sears and
elsewhere, but one can also be built without too much trouble. They are
probably no longer available commercially because of the safety concerns
(and attendant litigation) that goes with marketing such a device. I
made one from an old wooden card table and a sheet of 3/8" Masonite for
a top. To fasten the saw to the bottom of the Masonite I used flathead
machine screws set through countersunk holes in the Masonite and into
holes drilled into the saw's base plate. I secured it with lock washers
and wing nuts (the wing nuts are so you can quickly free the saw for use
as a hand held when the need arises). If you don't want to drill holes
in your brand new saw, the screws can go into lengths of angle iron that
cross the base plate on either side of the blade and also hold the saw
firmly to the table. The main trick (and annoyance) of such a rig is
fussing with the fence to ensure that it's parallel to the blade before
a rip cut. You can fasten the fence to the table with C-clamps. Of
course, you cannot use a dado set with this gear, and the depth of the
cut is a little limited, but for routine ripping to about 1 3/4" it
beats trying to do it with the saw in hand-held mode. As for running the
saw, I would just jam a wedge into the trigger hole and start and stop
it with a switched outlet, but you can get fancy and install a proper
cut-off switch on the table and plug the saw into that. Just remember,
whatever you do, that these things eat fingers and other appendages at
the slightest provocation, so be very careful. I always worried that the
wing nuts would work loose from the vibration and the saw would fall on
the ground and start chasing me (seriously). After building some storm
windows and my first boat with my home made table saw, I grew
sufficiently fearful of the thing to overcome my inborn cheapness and
buy a real table saw...
david
>From: "Chuck" <cpcorreia@...>become a
>Reply-To:bolger@...
>To:bolger@...
>Subject: [bolger] Help! I need to buy a saw for boat building!
>Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 14:26:06 -0800
>
>OK Guys,
>
>I need an electric saw. What should I get....
>....Are there saws that can be attached upside down to a table and
>sort of table saw, so you could have both?...
Hello All
We use a saw set up through a nailbox but any stout wooden box that has a square edge is fine. IT IS A DANGEROUS BEAST - WATCH FINGERS.
This approach works really well if you need a portable table saw for jobs such as fitting out. It can be taken onto/into the boat. The portable table saw saves about a million trips out of the boat back to the shop saw which, when building a bigger boat translates into many hours saved.
Regards - Foster
David wrote: With a little thought any hand circular saw can be fitted under a table.
We use a saw set up through a nailbox but any stout wooden box that has a square edge is fine. IT IS A DANGEROUS BEAST - WATCH FINGERS.
This approach works really well if you need a portable table saw for jobs such as fitting out. It can be taken onto/into the boat. The portable table saw saves about a million trips out of the boat back to the shop saw which, when building a bigger boat translates into many hours saved.
Regards - Foster
David wrote: With a little thought any hand circular saw can be fitted under a table.