RE: [bolger] Yawl Text
>Craig, Craig .Naw, actually I have some canoe-yawl information online (Canoe Sailing
>
>
>
>Youre giving away your worth here; if you are indeed sitting on a stash of
>SBJ (note to Dark Forces: I gave mine away when I moved aboard!), should you
>be mentioning this publicly?
>
>
>
>Just a thought .
>
>
>
>David Romascow
Resources pages) and have been compiling some more.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
Craig, Craig
.
Youre giving away your worth here; if you are indeed sitting on a stash of
SBJ (note to Dark Forces: I gave mine away when I moved aboard!), should you
be mentioning this publicly?
Just a thought .
David Romasco
_____
From: craig o'donnell [mailto:dadadata@...]
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 9:32 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Yawl Text
Here is the text of the Bolger Cartoon Canoe Yawl essay. The boat is such a
neat one that people should read the text too. From the late & lamented
Small Boat Journal. It's practically a textbook exercise in thinking
logically through a design and reminds me agaiun why I thought PCB was such
a fun read when I first came across his books.
Perhaps Tom Haglund actually built such a boat. Note that there may be a
few OCR spelling errors.
"Dear Phil:
The boat I have in mind is for a person who likes to travel light and
explore remote waters and sail big lakes, like the coasts of Isle Royale in
Lake Superior, the Leewanaw peninsula in Lake Michigan, or some of the
inland waterways.
The boat will have to be light enough to be pulled by small car with a
90-horsepower engine; no more than 19 feet long (my garage is only 21 feet
long and the ferry to Isle Royale can only transport boats up to 20 feet in
length); simple enough for a novice to build; big enough to accommodate two
people overnight with ample room for backpacking equipment and a two-week
supply of food and clothing; have an enclosed cabin; have a centerboard
trunk that would not take up the whole cabin; have shallow draft; make good
speed under sail; be easily rowed; be capable of taking moderate seas; and
possess fair lines.
In searching for such a boat, I came across two canoe yawls: Albert
Strange's Cherub Hand William Garden's Eel Both boats have features I like.
Cherub possesses a functional (cruising layout and has an outboard rudder,
but Eel's shallow draft and style are more to my liking.
Maybe this dream boat would be more of a nightmare than a dream, but if
such a boat were possible, it could be a very handy vessel for the person
who likes to get away without a lot of investment or hassle.
Tom Haglund
Sodus, Michigan
===
I don't see anything nightmarish about an urge to create a graceful little
boat that pays respect to a pleasant tradition. I've often thought that
people who pay for boats that please the eyes and stimulate the
imaginations of passers-by ought to get some kind of tax break for the
public service.
The construction is supposed to be for a patient novice. I think I've
avoided features that are really difficult to build, but I believe you feel
tat good looks are worth taking some time and trouble. She's planked with
plywood in easy curves all through. The simplified shape isn't carried to
the point of looking crude, unless you have a prejudice against the hard
chine. Chines can be ugly, but this one has a fair sweep that's well clear
of the water and disappears at each end nothing ugly about it to an
objective eye.
The deep-vee section is out of fashion now. Its function has always been to
allow inside ballast to be carried low in a hull of minimum displacement
for its beam, like the Baltimore Clippers and Chapman's 18th-century
Swedish privateers. It doesn't make good sense in an outside ballasted
boat; in this case, however, I suggest it for carrying water ballast.
Though water is light for its bulk, it can be taken on free anywhere the
boat can be used and dumped anywhere outdoors without making a mess. And
the boat can be lighter on a trailer than one with ballast that has to be
carried along.
I only did a rough estimate of the tank volume here, but it's supposed to
be on the order of 1000 pounds. The stripped weight of a reasonably strong
boat won't be more than another thousand, leaving about 700 pounds for
payload people, gear, and supplies. By current standards, that's heavy
displacement for a hull less than 16 feet on the waterline. She would have
a fair amount of momentum, won't feel flighty in her motions, and will be
positively self-righting. She can't be driven fast (I'd be surprised if she
ever touched 6 knots) and will be a wet boat on the wind in a chop. She'll
be a good sailer in light airs, fit to row some distance if the sea is
smooth and the air still.
She'd be stiffer under sail, and therefore faster and more weatherly, if
the ballast was lead. And she'd be stiffer still if the bottom of the vee
was cut off and replaced with a fin. The shallower hull could be driven
faster, and the flat-sided keel would allow the centerboard to be much
smaller with no increase in draft. But she would be heavier on the trailer,
noticeably harder to row on account of the surface friction of the fin, and
more likely to miss stays in a breeze.
A transom stern would allow a stiffer, faster, roomier boat, with no
functional penalty to speak of But it wouldn't be a canoe yawl, and the
hard chine would be harshly prominent.
I tried to design her with an outboard rudder, but no matter what I tried,
the steering geometry came out wrong. Cranked and wishbone tillers were too
long; yoke and lines or a drag link made the tiller too short. They all
made a clutter that spoiled her looks. The 1896 Holmes-designed Eel for
which Garden named his design, had an outboard rudder mounted on a stern
that no novice should think of trying to build. With a transom stern, the
mizzenmast stepped off center, and the cockpit extended further aft, an
outboard rudder would work. But, in fact, I don t see much harm in this
inboard rudder. It's well protected and braced. The trunk for the stock is
no more trouble to build than the gimmickry needed to get an outboard
rudder hooked up past the mizzenmast. All of Strange's later canoe yawls
had inboard rudders, as did W.P. Stephens' famous canoe yawl Snickersnee.
Canoe yawls as short as this were usually meant for singlehanding. On
paper, two people can cruise in this one, with room to lie down in the
cuddy and sit there or in the cockpit But the shipmates should be a loving
couple, since they'll be touching each other at all times unless they stand
watch-and-watch.
Though Strange's Cherub II had a hinged and sliding cabintop with side
curtains, a sort of poptop, I've never to this day figured a good way to
make a door work in one of these. The only one I ever designed that I liked
was fitted as an overgrown hatch, separate from the companionway, and it
was replaced by a solid house after two seasons. Also, I wanted this boat
to be seaworthy, which I define as "able to keep the sea in a gale with
reasonable safety."
The trunk shown is high, to allow sitting up straight on top of the ballast
tank and centerboard trunk, but it has a low coaming in keeping with her
style. It's a simple shape to build, yet strong and stiff without great
weight. Wind resistance is small (it's not that important compared with the
wind resistance in her rig), it will shed water well, and the grab rail is
ideally placed. To keep the trunk light, and incidentally to make it less
obtrusive, no hatch is shown.
The cuddy is entered through a 2-foot-square opening in the bulkhead. You
slide your legs in first, then lower your butt to the sole with hands on
the lip of the trunk. Hands and knees will work best to get out. The reward
of being limber enough to do this is that there's a good chance that the
cuddy will stay dry.
The cockpit is self-draining with the hatch closed, but the space below is
sealed off watertight from the rest of the hull with bulkheads. Shipping a
green sea with the hatch open wouldn't be disastrous. The advantage of a
footwell of this type is that it can be made fully self-draining if, for
instance, you left her out in the rain or were about to run a breaking
inlet. But it allows you to put your feet down most of the time without
having to sit clear up on top of the boat. The stowage space at the sides
and ends is much handier than with a tight, built-down footwell.
You can stand up to row, as diagrammed. The rowlocks are misplaced on the
sailplan; they should be about a foot farther aft. With one foot up against
the after bulkhead, an oarsman should be able to pull strongly and see
well.
I first tried a jib-headed cat-yawl rig, that being a favorite of mine, but
the mainmast came too far forward for a boat with no forefoot, and was too
long and too difficult to unstep for a real trailer boat.
Next I looked at a balanced lug like Cherub II. I once designed a canoe
yawl, Windfola, with this rig, and her owner likes her, but this rig has
some bad habits for a seagoing boat. The long yard slung on a single
halyard can be something of a menace in a crisis. I notice that Strange
never repeated this rig in his later designs.
Then I sketched a gaff-cat rig, much like the mainsail shown here, with the
mast unstayed and jib and mizzen eliminated. This is a good rig for ocean
passages if the boat is long enough to have the mast well back from the bow
and the boom inboard of the stem. But it's not so good for control in tight
places or steady riding to an anchor. The unstayed mast is hard to unstep
and, in any case, I doubted that you'd like the look of it.
I settled on the classical yawl, except for a more practical mizzen than
used to be customary. The mast is stepped on deck. It's short and light
enough to pick up horizontally, slide the heel slit onto its pin, and walk
upright even with the boat afloat and the water not smooth. To get an
effective spread, the shrouds can't go higher on the mast. This locates the
height of the throat. Not wanting to clutter the mast with upper shrouds
and spreaders, I put the jibstay not far above the shrouds. This made the
jib a handy size to sheet with a single part. To give her a boomed jib
would call for a bigger head angle, a longer base to the foretriangle, a
longer bowsprit and a bigger mizzen to balance it, and poorer aerodynamics
not worth it to save shifting one light line in tacking. Besides, a
boomless jib with two sheets is better for heaving to and maneuvering.
I made the gaff just shorter than the boom here, but my afterthought is
that she looks oversparred, even with the good reefing properties of this
rig. If I went on to working drawings, I think I would take a foot or more
off the gaff, which would allow shortening the mast by half that. I've had
two embarrassments in the past few years from making rigs too big and tall;
consequently, I'm slightly gun-shy.
I take it the bowsprit and boomkin have to be removable to meet the length
restriction. I've thought about how to do this quickly, but haven't decided
just how to handle it, hence the vagueness of this drawing.
I see plenty of ways to make her faster, roomier, and cheaper, but they all
result in a less striking ornament at an anchorage. As a bonus, she looks
more expensive than she is, and while she won't be a very fast boat, I'll
warrant she'll have good and spirited manners."
°°°
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Youre giving away your worth here; if you are indeed sitting on a stash of
SBJ (note to Dark Forces: I gave mine away when I moved aboard!), should you
be mentioning this publicly?
Just a thought .
David Romasco
_____
From: craig o'donnell [mailto:dadadata@...]
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 9:32 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Yawl Text
Here is the text of the Bolger Cartoon Canoe Yawl essay. The boat is such a
neat one that people should read the text too. From the late & lamented
Small Boat Journal. It's practically a textbook exercise in thinking
logically through a design and reminds me agaiun why I thought PCB was such
a fun read when I first came across his books.
Perhaps Tom Haglund actually built such a boat. Note that there may be a
few OCR spelling errors.
"Dear Phil:
The boat I have in mind is for a person who likes to travel light and
explore remote waters and sail big lakes, like the coasts of Isle Royale in
Lake Superior, the Leewanaw peninsula in Lake Michigan, or some of the
inland waterways.
The boat will have to be light enough to be pulled by small car with a
90-horsepower engine; no more than 19 feet long (my garage is only 21 feet
long and the ferry to Isle Royale can only transport boats up to 20 feet in
length); simple enough for a novice to build; big enough to accommodate two
people overnight with ample room for backpacking equipment and a two-week
supply of food and clothing; have an enclosed cabin; have a centerboard
trunk that would not take up the whole cabin; have shallow draft; make good
speed under sail; be easily rowed; be capable of taking moderate seas; and
possess fair lines.
In searching for such a boat, I came across two canoe yawls: Albert
Strange's Cherub Hand William Garden's Eel Both boats have features I like.
Cherub possesses a functional (cruising layout and has an outboard rudder,
but Eel's shallow draft and style are more to my liking.
Maybe this dream boat would be more of a nightmare than a dream, but if
such a boat were possible, it could be a very handy vessel for the person
who likes to get away without a lot of investment or hassle.
Tom Haglund
Sodus, Michigan
===
I don't see anything nightmarish about an urge to create a graceful little
boat that pays respect to a pleasant tradition. I've often thought that
people who pay for boats that please the eyes and stimulate the
imaginations of passers-by ought to get some kind of tax break for the
public service.
The construction is supposed to be for a patient novice. I think I've
avoided features that are really difficult to build, but I believe you feel
tat good looks are worth taking some time and trouble. She's planked with
plywood in easy curves all through. The simplified shape isn't carried to
the point of looking crude, unless you have a prejudice against the hard
chine. Chines can be ugly, but this one has a fair sweep that's well clear
of the water and disappears at each end nothing ugly about it to an
objective eye.
The deep-vee section is out of fashion now. Its function has always been to
allow inside ballast to be carried low in a hull of minimum displacement
for its beam, like the Baltimore Clippers and Chapman's 18th-century
Swedish privateers. It doesn't make good sense in an outside ballasted
boat; in this case, however, I suggest it for carrying water ballast.
Though water is light for its bulk, it can be taken on free anywhere the
boat can be used and dumped anywhere outdoors without making a mess. And
the boat can be lighter on a trailer than one with ballast that has to be
carried along.
I only did a rough estimate of the tank volume here, but it's supposed to
be on the order of 1000 pounds. The stripped weight of a reasonably strong
boat won't be more than another thousand, leaving about 700 pounds for
payload people, gear, and supplies. By current standards, that's heavy
displacement for a hull less than 16 feet on the waterline. She would have
a fair amount of momentum, won't feel flighty in her motions, and will be
positively self-righting. She can't be driven fast (I'd be surprised if she
ever touched 6 knots) and will be a wet boat on the wind in a chop. She'll
be a good sailer in light airs, fit to row some distance if the sea is
smooth and the air still.
She'd be stiffer under sail, and therefore faster and more weatherly, if
the ballast was lead. And she'd be stiffer still if the bottom of the vee
was cut off and replaced with a fin. The shallower hull could be driven
faster, and the flat-sided keel would allow the centerboard to be much
smaller with no increase in draft. But she would be heavier on the trailer,
noticeably harder to row on account of the surface friction of the fin, and
more likely to miss stays in a breeze.
A transom stern would allow a stiffer, faster, roomier boat, with no
functional penalty to speak of But it wouldn't be a canoe yawl, and the
hard chine would be harshly prominent.
I tried to design her with an outboard rudder, but no matter what I tried,
the steering geometry came out wrong. Cranked and wishbone tillers were too
long; yoke and lines or a drag link made the tiller too short. They all
made a clutter that spoiled her looks. The 1896 Holmes-designed Eel for
which Garden named his design, had an outboard rudder mounted on a stern
that no novice should think of trying to build. With a transom stern, the
mizzenmast stepped off center, and the cockpit extended further aft, an
outboard rudder would work. But, in fact, I don t see much harm in this
inboard rudder. It's well protected and braced. The trunk for the stock is
no more trouble to build than the gimmickry needed to get an outboard
rudder hooked up past the mizzenmast. All of Strange's later canoe yawls
had inboard rudders, as did W.P. Stephens' famous canoe yawl Snickersnee.
Canoe yawls as short as this were usually meant for singlehanding. On
paper, two people can cruise in this one, with room to lie down in the
cuddy and sit there or in the cockpit But the shipmates should be a loving
couple, since they'll be touching each other at all times unless they stand
watch-and-watch.
Though Strange's Cherub II had a hinged and sliding cabintop with side
curtains, a sort of poptop, I've never to this day figured a good way to
make a door work in one of these. The only one I ever designed that I liked
was fitted as an overgrown hatch, separate from the companionway, and it
was replaced by a solid house after two seasons. Also, I wanted this boat
to be seaworthy, which I define as "able to keep the sea in a gale with
reasonable safety."
The trunk shown is high, to allow sitting up straight on top of the ballast
tank and centerboard trunk, but it has a low coaming in keeping with her
style. It's a simple shape to build, yet strong and stiff without great
weight. Wind resistance is small (it's not that important compared with the
wind resistance in her rig), it will shed water well, and the grab rail is
ideally placed. To keep the trunk light, and incidentally to make it less
obtrusive, no hatch is shown.
The cuddy is entered through a 2-foot-square opening in the bulkhead. You
slide your legs in first, then lower your butt to the sole with hands on
the lip of the trunk. Hands and knees will work best to get out. The reward
of being limber enough to do this is that there's a good chance that the
cuddy will stay dry.
The cockpit is self-draining with the hatch closed, but the space below is
sealed off watertight from the rest of the hull with bulkheads. Shipping a
green sea with the hatch open wouldn't be disastrous. The advantage of a
footwell of this type is that it can be made fully self-draining if, for
instance, you left her out in the rain or were about to run a breaking
inlet. But it allows you to put your feet down most of the time without
having to sit clear up on top of the boat. The stowage space at the sides
and ends is much handier than with a tight, built-down footwell.
You can stand up to row, as diagrammed. The rowlocks are misplaced on the
sailplan; they should be about a foot farther aft. With one foot up against
the after bulkhead, an oarsman should be able to pull strongly and see
well.
I first tried a jib-headed cat-yawl rig, that being a favorite of mine, but
the mainmast came too far forward for a boat with no forefoot, and was too
long and too difficult to unstep for a real trailer boat.
Next I looked at a balanced lug like Cherub II. I once designed a canoe
yawl, Windfola, with this rig, and her owner likes her, but this rig has
some bad habits for a seagoing boat. The long yard slung on a single
halyard can be something of a menace in a crisis. I notice that Strange
never repeated this rig in his later designs.
Then I sketched a gaff-cat rig, much like the mainsail shown here, with the
mast unstayed and jib and mizzen eliminated. This is a good rig for ocean
passages if the boat is long enough to have the mast well back from the bow
and the boom inboard of the stem. But it's not so good for control in tight
places or steady riding to an anchor. The unstayed mast is hard to unstep
and, in any case, I doubted that you'd like the look of it.
I settled on the classical yawl, except for a more practical mizzen than
used to be customary. The mast is stepped on deck. It's short and light
enough to pick up horizontally, slide the heel slit onto its pin, and walk
upright even with the boat afloat and the water not smooth. To get an
effective spread, the shrouds can't go higher on the mast. This locates the
height of the throat. Not wanting to clutter the mast with upper shrouds
and spreaders, I put the jibstay not far above the shrouds. This made the
jib a handy size to sheet with a single part. To give her a boomed jib
would call for a bigger head angle, a longer base to the foretriangle, a
longer bowsprit and a bigger mizzen to balance it, and poorer aerodynamics
not worth it to save shifting one light line in tacking. Besides, a
boomless jib with two sheets is better for heaving to and maneuvering.
I made the gaff just shorter than the boom here, but my afterthought is
that she looks oversparred, even with the good reefing properties of this
rig. If I went on to working drawings, I think I would take a foot or more
off the gaff, which would allow shortening the mast by half that. I've had
two embarrassments in the past few years from making rigs too big and tall;
consequently, I'm slightly gun-shy.
I take it the bowsprit and boomkin have to be removable to meet the length
restriction. I've thought about how to do this quickly, but haven't decided
just how to handle it, hence the vagueness of this drawing.
I see plenty of ways to make her faster, roomier, and cheaper, but they all
result in a less striking ornament at an anchorage. As a bonus, she looks
more expensive than she is, and while she won't be a very fast boat, I'll
warrant she'll have good and spirited manners."
°°°
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Here is the text of the Bolger Cartoon Canoe Yawl essay. The boat is such a
neat one that people should read the text too. From the late & lamented
Small Boat Journal. It's practically a textbook exercise in thinking
logically through a design and reminds me agaiun why I thought PCB was such
a fun read when I first came across his books.
Perhaps Tom Haglund actually built such a boat. Note that there may be a
few OCR spelling errors.
"Dear Phil:
The boat I have in mind is for a person who likes to travel light and
explore remote waters and sail big lakes, like the coasts of Isle Royale in
Lake Superior, the Leewanaw peninsula in Lake Michigan, or some of the
inland waterways.
The boat will have to be light enough to be pulled by small car with a
90-horsepower engine; no more than 19 feet long (my garage is only 21 feet
long and the ferry to Isle Royale can only transport boats up to 20 feet in
length); simple enough for a novice to build; big enough to accommodate two
people overnight with ample room for backpacking equipment and a two-week
supply of food and clothing; have an enclosed cabin; have a centerboard
trunk that would not take up the whole cabin; have shallow draft; make good
speed under sail; be easily rowed; be capable of taking moderate seas; and
possess fair lines.
In searching for such a boat, I came across two canoe yawls: Albert
Strange's Cherub Hand William Garden's Eel Both boats have features I like.
Cherub possesses a functional (cruising layout and has an outboard rudder,
but Eel's shallow draft and style are more to my liking.
Maybe this dream boat would be more of a nightmare than a dream, but if
such a boat were possible, it could be a very handy vessel for the person
who likes to get away without a lot of investment or hassle.
Tom Haglund
Sodus, Michigan
===
I don't see anything nightmarish about an urge to create a graceful little
boat that pays respect to a pleasant tradition. I've often thought that
people who pay for boats that please the eyes and stimulate the
imaginations of passers-by ought to get some kind of tax break for the
public service.
The construction is supposed to be for a patient novice. I think I've
avoided features that are really difficult to build, but I believe you feel
tat good looks are worth taking some time and trouble. She's planked with
plywood in easy curves all through. The simplified shape isn't carried to
the point of looking crude, unless you have a prejudice against the hard
chine. Chines can be ugly, but this one has a fair sweep that's well clear
of the water and disappears at each end nothing ugly about it to an
objective eye.
The deep-vee section is out of fashion now. Its function has always been to
allow inside ballast to be carried low in a hull of minimum displacement
for its beam, like the Baltimore Clippers and Chapman's 18th-century
Swedish privateers. It doesn't make good sense in an outside ballasted
boat; in this case, however, I suggest it for carrying water ballast.
Though water is light for its bulk, it can be taken on free anywhere the
boat can be used and dumped anywhere outdoors without making a mess. And
the boat can be lighter on a trailer than one with ballast that has to be
carried along.
I only did a rough estimate of the tank volume here, but it's supposed to
be on the order of 1000 pounds. The stripped weight of a reasonably strong
boat won't be more than another thousand, leaving about 700 pounds for
payload people, gear, and supplies. By current standards, that's heavy
displacement for a hull less than 16 feet on the waterline. She would have
a fair amount of momentum, won't feel flighty in her motions, and will be
positively self-righting. She can't be driven fast (I'd be surprised if she
ever touched 6 knots) and will be a wet boat on the wind in a chop. She'll
be a good sailer in light airs, fit to row some distance if the sea is
smooth and the air still.
She'd be stiffer under sail, and therefore faster and more weatherly, if
the ballast was lead. And she'd be stiffer still if the bottom of the vee
was cut off and replaced with a fin. The shallower hull could be driven
faster, and the flat-sided keel would allow the centerboard to be much
smaller with no increase in draft. But she would be heavier on the trailer,
noticeably harder to row on account of the surface friction of the fin, and
more likely to miss stays in a breeze.
A transom stern would allow a stiffer, faster, roomier boat, with no
functional penalty to speak of But it wouldn't be a canoe yawl, and the
hard chine would be harshly prominent.
I tried to design her with an outboard rudder, but no matter what I tried,
the steering geometry came out wrong. Cranked and wishbone tillers were too
long; yoke and lines or a drag link made the tiller too short. They all
made a clutter that spoiled her looks. The 1896 Holmes-designed Eel for
which Garden named his design, had an outboard rudder mounted on a stern
that no novice should think of trying to build. With a transom stern, the
mizzenmast stepped off center, and the cockpit extended further aft, an
outboard rudder would work. But, in fact, I don t see much harm in this
inboard rudder. It's well protected and braced. The trunk for the stock is
no more trouble to build than the gimmickry needed to get an outboard
rudder hooked up past the mizzenmast. All of Strange's later canoe yawls
had inboard rudders, as did W.P. Stephens' famous canoe yawl Snickersnee.
Canoe yawls as short as this were usually meant for singlehanding. On
paper, two people can cruise in this one, with room to lie down in the
cuddy and sit there or in the cockpit But the shipmates should be a loving
couple, since they'll be touching each other at all times unless they stand
watch-and-watch.
Though Strange's Cherub II had a hinged and sliding cabintop with side
curtains, a sort of poptop, I've never to this day figured a good way to
make a door work in one of these. The only one I ever designed that I liked
was fitted as an overgrown hatch, separate from the companionway, and it
was replaced by a solid house after two seasons. Also, I wanted this boat
to be seaworthy, which I define as "able to keep the sea in a gale with
reasonable safety."
The trunk shown is high, to allow sitting up straight on top of the ballast
tank and centerboard trunk, but it has a low coaming in keeping with her
style. It's a simple shape to build, yet strong and stiff without great
weight. Wind resistance is small (it's not that important compared with the
wind resistance in her rig), it will shed water well, and the grab rail is
ideally placed. To keep the trunk light, and incidentally to make it less
obtrusive, no hatch is shown.
The cuddy is entered through a 2-foot-square opening in the bulkhead. You
slide your legs in first, then lower your butt to the sole with hands on
the lip of the trunk. Hands and knees will work best to get out. The reward
of being limber enough to do this is that there's a good chance that the
cuddy will stay dry.
The cockpit is self-draining with the hatch closed, but the space below is
sealed off watertight from the rest of the hull with bulkheads. Shipping a
green sea with the hatch open wouldn't be disastrous. The advantage of a
footwell of this type is that it can be made fully self-draining if, for
instance, you left her out in the rain or were about to run a breaking
inlet. But it allows you to put your feet down most of the time without
having to sit clear up on top of the boat. The stowage space at the sides
and ends is much handier than with a tight, built-down footwell.
You can stand up to row, as diagrammed. The rowlocks are misplaced on the
sailplan; they should be about a foot farther aft. With one foot up against
the after bulkhead, an oarsman should be able to pull strongly and see
well.
I first tried a jib-headed cat-yawl rig, that being a favorite of mine, but
the mainmast came too far forward for a boat with no forefoot, and was too
long and too difficult to unstep for a real trailer boat.
Next I looked at a balanced lug like Cherub II. I once designed a canoe
yawl, Windfola, with this rig, and her owner likes her, but this rig has
some bad habits for a seagoing boat. The long yard slung on a single
halyard can be something of a menace in a crisis. I notice that Strange
never repeated this rig in his later designs.
Then I sketched a gaff-cat rig, much like the mainsail shown here, with the
mast unstayed and jib and mizzen eliminated. This is a good rig for ocean
passages if the boat is long enough to have the mast well back from the bow
and the boom inboard of the stem. But it's not so good for control in tight
places or steady riding to an anchor. The unstayed mast is hard to unstep
and, in any case, I doubted that you'd like the look of it.
I settled on the classical yawl, except for a more practical mizzen than
used to be customary. The mast is stepped on deck. It's short and light
enough to pick up horizontally, slide the heel slit onto its pin, and walk
upright even with the boat afloat and the water not smooth. To get an
effective spread, the shrouds can't go higher on the mast. This locates the
height of the throat. Not wanting to clutter the mast with upper shrouds
and spreaders, I put the jibstay not far above the shrouds. This made the
jib a handy size to sheet with a single part. To give her a boomed jib
would call for a bigger head angle, a longer base to the foretriangle, a
longer bowsprit and a bigger mizzen to balance it, and poorer aerodynamics
not worth it to save shifting one light line in tacking. Besides, a
boomless jib with two sheets is better for heaving to and maneuvering.
I made the gaff just shorter than the boom here, but my afterthought is
that she looks oversparred, even with the good reefing properties of this
rig. If I went on to working drawings, I think I would take a foot or more
off the gaff, which would allow shortening the mast by half that. I've had
two embarrassments in the past few years from making rigs too big and tall;
consequently, I'm slightly gun-shy.
I take it the bowsprit and boomkin have to be removable to meet the length
restriction. I've thought about how to do this quickly, but haven't decided
just how to handle it, hence the vagueness of this drawing.
I see plenty of ways to make her faster, roomier, and cheaper, but they all
result in a less striking ornament at an anchorage. As a bonus, she looks
more expensive than she is, and while she won't be a very fast boat, I'll
warrant she'll have good and spirited manners."
°°°
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
neat one that people should read the text too. From the late & lamented
Small Boat Journal. It's practically a textbook exercise in thinking
logically through a design and reminds me agaiun why I thought PCB was such
a fun read when I first came across his books.
Perhaps Tom Haglund actually built such a boat. Note that there may be a
few OCR spelling errors.
"Dear Phil:
The boat I have in mind is for a person who likes to travel light and
explore remote waters and sail big lakes, like the coasts of Isle Royale in
Lake Superior, the Leewanaw peninsula in Lake Michigan, or some of the
inland waterways.
The boat will have to be light enough to be pulled by small car with a
90-horsepower engine; no more than 19 feet long (my garage is only 21 feet
long and the ferry to Isle Royale can only transport boats up to 20 feet in
length); simple enough for a novice to build; big enough to accommodate two
people overnight with ample room for backpacking equipment and a two-week
supply of food and clothing; have an enclosed cabin; have a centerboard
trunk that would not take up the whole cabin; have shallow draft; make good
speed under sail; be easily rowed; be capable of taking moderate seas; and
possess fair lines.
In searching for such a boat, I came across two canoe yawls: Albert
Strange's Cherub Hand William Garden's Eel Both boats have features I like.
Cherub possesses a functional (cruising layout and has an outboard rudder,
but Eel's shallow draft and style are more to my liking.
Maybe this dream boat would be more of a nightmare than a dream, but if
such a boat were possible, it could be a very handy vessel for the person
who likes to get away without a lot of investment or hassle.
Tom Haglund
Sodus, Michigan
===
I don't see anything nightmarish about an urge to create a graceful little
boat that pays respect to a pleasant tradition. I've often thought that
people who pay for boats that please the eyes and stimulate the
imaginations of passers-by ought to get some kind of tax break for the
public service.
The construction is supposed to be for a patient novice. I think I've
avoided features that are really difficult to build, but I believe you feel
tat good looks are worth taking some time and trouble. She's planked with
plywood in easy curves all through. The simplified shape isn't carried to
the point of looking crude, unless you have a prejudice against the hard
chine. Chines can be ugly, but this one has a fair sweep that's well clear
of the water and disappears at each end nothing ugly about it to an
objective eye.
The deep-vee section is out of fashion now. Its function has always been to
allow inside ballast to be carried low in a hull of minimum displacement
for its beam, like the Baltimore Clippers and Chapman's 18th-century
Swedish privateers. It doesn't make good sense in an outside ballasted
boat; in this case, however, I suggest it for carrying water ballast.
Though water is light for its bulk, it can be taken on free anywhere the
boat can be used and dumped anywhere outdoors without making a mess. And
the boat can be lighter on a trailer than one with ballast that has to be
carried along.
I only did a rough estimate of the tank volume here, but it's supposed to
be on the order of 1000 pounds. The stripped weight of a reasonably strong
boat won't be more than another thousand, leaving about 700 pounds for
payload people, gear, and supplies. By current standards, that's heavy
displacement for a hull less than 16 feet on the waterline. She would have
a fair amount of momentum, won't feel flighty in her motions, and will be
positively self-righting. She can't be driven fast (I'd be surprised if she
ever touched 6 knots) and will be a wet boat on the wind in a chop. She'll
be a good sailer in light airs, fit to row some distance if the sea is
smooth and the air still.
She'd be stiffer under sail, and therefore faster and more weatherly, if
the ballast was lead. And she'd be stiffer still if the bottom of the vee
was cut off and replaced with a fin. The shallower hull could be driven
faster, and the flat-sided keel would allow the centerboard to be much
smaller with no increase in draft. But she would be heavier on the trailer,
noticeably harder to row on account of the surface friction of the fin, and
more likely to miss stays in a breeze.
A transom stern would allow a stiffer, faster, roomier boat, with no
functional penalty to speak of But it wouldn't be a canoe yawl, and the
hard chine would be harshly prominent.
I tried to design her with an outboard rudder, but no matter what I tried,
the steering geometry came out wrong. Cranked and wishbone tillers were too
long; yoke and lines or a drag link made the tiller too short. They all
made a clutter that spoiled her looks. The 1896 Holmes-designed Eel for
which Garden named his design, had an outboard rudder mounted on a stern
that no novice should think of trying to build. With a transom stern, the
mizzenmast stepped off center, and the cockpit extended further aft, an
outboard rudder would work. But, in fact, I don t see much harm in this
inboard rudder. It's well protected and braced. The trunk for the stock is
no more trouble to build than the gimmickry needed to get an outboard
rudder hooked up past the mizzenmast. All of Strange's later canoe yawls
had inboard rudders, as did W.P. Stephens' famous canoe yawl Snickersnee.
Canoe yawls as short as this were usually meant for singlehanding. On
paper, two people can cruise in this one, with room to lie down in the
cuddy and sit there or in the cockpit But the shipmates should be a loving
couple, since they'll be touching each other at all times unless they stand
watch-and-watch.
Though Strange's Cherub II had a hinged and sliding cabintop with side
curtains, a sort of poptop, I've never to this day figured a good way to
make a door work in one of these. The only one I ever designed that I liked
was fitted as an overgrown hatch, separate from the companionway, and it
was replaced by a solid house after two seasons. Also, I wanted this boat
to be seaworthy, which I define as "able to keep the sea in a gale with
reasonable safety."
The trunk shown is high, to allow sitting up straight on top of the ballast
tank and centerboard trunk, but it has a low coaming in keeping with her
style. It's a simple shape to build, yet strong and stiff without great
weight. Wind resistance is small (it's not that important compared with the
wind resistance in her rig), it will shed water well, and the grab rail is
ideally placed. To keep the trunk light, and incidentally to make it less
obtrusive, no hatch is shown.
The cuddy is entered through a 2-foot-square opening in the bulkhead. You
slide your legs in first, then lower your butt to the sole with hands on
the lip of the trunk. Hands and knees will work best to get out. The reward
of being limber enough to do this is that there's a good chance that the
cuddy will stay dry.
The cockpit is self-draining with the hatch closed, but the space below is
sealed off watertight from the rest of the hull with bulkheads. Shipping a
green sea with the hatch open wouldn't be disastrous. The advantage of a
footwell of this type is that it can be made fully self-draining if, for
instance, you left her out in the rain or were about to run a breaking
inlet. But it allows you to put your feet down most of the time without
having to sit clear up on top of the boat. The stowage space at the sides
and ends is much handier than with a tight, built-down footwell.
You can stand up to row, as diagrammed. The rowlocks are misplaced on the
sailplan; they should be about a foot farther aft. With one foot up against
the after bulkhead, an oarsman should be able to pull strongly and see
well.
I first tried a jib-headed cat-yawl rig, that being a favorite of mine, but
the mainmast came too far forward for a boat with no forefoot, and was too
long and too difficult to unstep for a real trailer boat.
Next I looked at a balanced lug like Cherub II. I once designed a canoe
yawl, Windfola, with this rig, and her owner likes her, but this rig has
some bad habits for a seagoing boat. The long yard slung on a single
halyard can be something of a menace in a crisis. I notice that Strange
never repeated this rig in his later designs.
Then I sketched a gaff-cat rig, much like the mainsail shown here, with the
mast unstayed and jib and mizzen eliminated. This is a good rig for ocean
passages if the boat is long enough to have the mast well back from the bow
and the boom inboard of the stem. But it's not so good for control in tight
places or steady riding to an anchor. The unstayed mast is hard to unstep
and, in any case, I doubted that you'd like the look of it.
I settled on the classical yawl, except for a more practical mizzen than
used to be customary. The mast is stepped on deck. It's short and light
enough to pick up horizontally, slide the heel slit onto its pin, and walk
upright even with the boat afloat and the water not smooth. To get an
effective spread, the shrouds can't go higher on the mast. This locates the
height of the throat. Not wanting to clutter the mast with upper shrouds
and spreaders, I put the jibstay not far above the shrouds. This made the
jib a handy size to sheet with a single part. To give her a boomed jib
would call for a bigger head angle, a longer base to the foretriangle, a
longer bowsprit and a bigger mizzen to balance it, and poorer aerodynamics
not worth it to save shifting one light line in tacking. Besides, a
boomless jib with two sheets is better for heaving to and maneuvering.
I made the gaff just shorter than the boom here, but my afterthought is
that she looks oversparred, even with the good reefing properties of this
rig. If I went on to working drawings, I think I would take a foot or more
off the gaff, which would allow shortening the mast by half that. I've had
two embarrassments in the past few years from making rigs too big and tall;
consequently, I'm slightly gun-shy.
I take it the bowsprit and boomkin have to be removable to meet the length
restriction. I've thought about how to do this quickly, but haven't decided
just how to handle it, hence the vagueness of this drawing.
I see plenty of ways to make her faster, roomier, and cheaper, but they all
result in a less striking ornament at an anchorage. As a bonus, she looks
more expensive than she is, and while she won't be a very fast boat, I'll
warrant she'll have good and spirited manners."
°°°
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]