Re: A pile of bolger boats.
--- dgw@d... suggested:
PCB wrote:
"...The throat yalyard block is intended
to be slung on a pendant, to allow the
block to swing with the gaff from side
to side, without adding several feet to
the length of the halyard. The eye for the
pendant is about 9 inches below the
masthead, the pendant is 33 inches long.
"The mysterious object on the after
face of the mast 22 inches below
the masthead is a slip of the pen, now
eliminated to save future confusion.
Thanks for drawing attention to it. ..."
Scan at:
http://hallman.org/bolger/halyard.gif
> A note to the Bolgers wouldSix hours after my fax'ed inquiry
> clear matters up.
PCB wrote:
"...The throat yalyard block is intended
to be slung on a pendant, to allow the
block to swing with the gaff from side
to side, without adding several feet to
the length of the halyard. The eye for the
pendant is about 9 inches below the
masthead, the pendant is 33 inches long.
"The mysterious object on the after
face of the mast 22 inches below
the masthead is a slip of the pen, now
eliminated to save future confusion.
Thanks for drawing attention to it. ..."
Scan at:
http://hallman.org/bolger/halyard.gif
Derek,
For my 115 sq ft gunter sail I use a 2-part purchase at the throat and a
single part for the peak. The peak halliard, though is made fast to a span
shackle running on a wire span along the gunter yard. The use of a span
enables reefing without messing with the peak halliard, until after the
reef is taken, then only minor adjustment is needed.
The throat halliard starts at the mast-head, down to a lightweight block
which has a long wire tail to the yard jaws, up to a mast-head block, and
then down to a belaying pin. When the halliard is swigged up tight, the
blocks are fairly close together, which saves on expensive pre-stretched
terylene. After swigging up tight, the peak is adjusted.
The boom vang, or kicking strap, is a six-part purchase, anchored a few
inches aft of the mast, so that as the boom swings out, the tension is
increased.
Alvan.
For my 115 sq ft gunter sail I use a 2-part purchase at the throat and a
single part for the peak. The peak halliard, though is made fast to a span
shackle running on a wire span along the gunter yard. The use of a span
enables reefing without messing with the peak halliard, until after the
reef is taken, then only minor adjustment is needed.
The throat halliard starts at the mast-head, down to a lightweight block
which has a long wire tail to the yard jaws, up to a mast-head block, and
then down to a belaying pin. When the halliard is swigged up tight, the
blocks are fairly close together, which saves on expensive pre-stretched
terylene. After swigging up tight, the peak is adjusted.
The boom vang, or kicking strap, is a six-part purchase, anchored a few
inches aft of the mast, so that as the boom swings out, the tension is
increased.
Alvan.
The 'arrowhead' is drawn not on a piece of cordage but rather on the
line representing the mast itself. It is also different in shape from
the direction arrows shown elsewhere. I wasn't sure what it was meant
to represent; possibly a standoff to ensure that the block is
suspended clear of the mast? A note to the Bolgers would clear matters
up.
cheers
Derek
line representing the mast itself. It is also different in shape from
the direction arrows shown elsewhere. I wasn't sure what it was meant
to represent; possibly a standoff to ensure that the block is
suspended clear of the mast? A note to the Bolgers would clear matters
up.
cheers
Derek
> Though, if so, then this 'arrowhead'
> marked in red no longer makes
> sense.
>
>http://hallman.org/bolger/micro/10U.gif
---lestat@...wrote:
to keep the boat in a marina, I
think I will screw the fid down
[without glue] after the mast is up.
Removable with a screwdriver.
> that removable piece aft isYes, removable. Though as I plan
> called the fid.You did keep it
> removable,didn't you?
to keep the boat in a marina, I
think I will screw the fid down
[without glue] after the mast is up.
Removable with a screwdriver.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@h...> wrote:
Thanks for the lovely collection of pictures. I love your interior
with micro-wave oven!(still no shot of blue skies and green leaves
though........:-) )
With one of your pictures you ask about the mast partner. Well,the
forward piece of wood secured to the hull is the mast partner and
that removable piece aft is called the fid.You did keep it
removable,didn't you?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan.
>http://hallman.org/bolger/micro/470/Bruce,
>
> Image #10 proves I am accumulating
> a pile of Bolger boats.
>
> The remaining pictures show my
> progress this weekend on my
> Micro Navigator project.
Thanks for the lovely collection of pictures. I love your interior
with micro-wave oven!(still no shot of blue skies and green leaves
though........:-) )
With one of your pictures you ask about the mast partner. Well,the
forward piece of wood secured to the hull is the mast partner and
that removable piece aft is called the fid.You did keep it
removable,didn't you?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan.
--- dgw@d... wrote:
mechanical advantage, but it makes
sense.
Though, if so, then this 'arrowhead'
marked in red no longer makes
sense.
http://hallman.org/bolger/micro/10U.gif
> It's the other way round...OK, that rig would not have a 2:1
> The throat halyard runs up
> from the partners, passes over that
> 'block on a string' and back down to
> the gaff jaws where it ends at a
> hardpoint.
mechanical advantage, but it makes
sense.
Though, if so, then this 'arrowhead'
marked in red no longer makes
sense.
http://hallman.org/bolger/micro/10U.gif
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
I think where you may be confused is that the throat halyard actually
goes back down the mast after turning through the block? The line
going to the top of the mast is tied off there to an eyebolt or
something.
The more I look at and study this rig, the more I see how elegantly
designed it is. At first it looks very complicated. Yet it is pared
down to the bare essentials. Especially compared to a Chinese junk
rig.
Takes a lot of fussy work to get it all together, but once it is put
into use, I be it will really be a pleasure to sail with. Won't even
have to get out of your slippers to start sailing:-)
I wonder what size line would be best for the topping lifts and
halyards if they are single purchase?
Any thoughts, Derek? Of course it would depend on one's personal
strength and the winds you plan to sail in.
Cheers, Nels
> That is the way I read it too.Bruce.
> The line going back up to the
> top of the mast is hidden in
> the side view drawing.
>
I think where you may be confused is that the throat halyard actually
goes back down the mast after turning through the block? The line
going to the top of the mast is tied off there to an eyebolt or
something.
The more I look at and study this rig, the more I see how elegantly
designed it is. At first it looks very complicated. Yet it is pared
down to the bare essentials. Especially compared to a Chinese junk
rig.
Takes a lot of fussy work to get it all together, but once it is put
into use, I be it will really be a pleasure to sail with. Won't even
have to get out of your slippers to start sailing:-)
I wonder what size line would be best for the topping lifts and
halyards if they are single purchase?
Any thoughts, Derek? Of course it would depend on one's personal
strength and the winds you plan to sail in.
Cheers, Nels
Now I understand what you are saying. It's the other way round, as it
were. There is no line going back up to the top of the mast.
The throat halyard runs up from the partners, passes over that 'block
on a string' and back down to the gaff jaws where it ends at a
hardpoint.
The block over which the halyard turns is suspended on a line from the
mast head. The block does not move up and down. Make more sense now?
You are right. Trust in Phil :)
cheers
Derek
were. There is no line going back up to the top of the mast.
The throat halyard runs up from the partners, passes over that 'block
on a string' and back down to the gaff jaws where it ends at a
hardpoint.
The block over which the halyard turns is suspended on a line from the
mast head. The block does not move up and down. Make more sense now?
You are right. Trust in Phil :)
cheers
Derek
> That is the way I read it too.
> The line going back up to the
> top of the mast is hidden in
> the side view drawing.
>
> I don't understand why that block
> is fastened on a one foot long
> line, above the gaff throat. Seems
> to me that it could be much closer
> and not thrash around as much.
> Why not shorten it, to say, 3 inches?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
luff - if the sail stretches for example when it gets older. Three
inches wouldn't give you much "leeway"
...unless I am looking at it incorrectley?
Nels
> I don't understand why that blockI believe that is to allow some extra length for tightening up the
> is fastened on a one foot long
> line, above the gaff throat. Seems
> to me that it could be much closer
> and not thrash around as much.
> Why not shorten it, to say, 3 inches?
>
> [Arrgh, I constantly need to balance
> the urge. In Phil we trust, versus
> trying to improve on the plans...]
>
>http://hallman.org/bolger/micro/10UR.gif
luff - if the sail stretches for example when it gets older. Three
inches wouldn't give you much "leeway"
...unless I am looking at it incorrectley?
Nels
--- Derek Waters wrote:
The line going back up to the
top of the mast is hidden in
the side view drawing.
I don't understand why that block
is fastened on a one foot long
line, above the gaff throat. Seems
to me that it could be much closer
and not thrash around as much.
Why not shorten it, to say, 3 inches?
[Arrgh, I constantly need to balance
the urge. In Phil we trust, versus
trying to improve on the plans...]
http://hallman.org/bolger/micro/10UR.gif
> A block. Throat halyard block.That is the way I read it too.
> It is on a line attached to a
> hard point at the top of the mast.
The line going back up to the
top of the mast is hidden in
the side view drawing.
I don't understand why that block
is fastened on a one foot long
line, above the gaff throat. Seems
to me that it could be much closer
and not thrash around as much.
Why not shorten it, to say, 3 inches?
[Arrgh, I constantly need to balance
the urge. In Phil we trust, versus
trying to improve on the plans...]
http://hallman.org/bolger/micro/10UR.gif
A block. Throat halyard block. It is on a line attached to a hard point at
the top of the mast. That way it can swing around the mast along with the
gaff jaws.
cheers
Derek
the top of the mast. That way it can swing around the mast along with the
gaff jaws.
cheers
Derek
Pretty much what Rick and Nels said.
The boom-vang's job here is to prevent excessive boom lift when running
downwind - the cordage used needs to be stout enough not to stretch. Slop in
the attatchments will defeat the purpose too. Nothing fancy is neede, just
make it solid.
Whether you will need a two part on either halyard depends on your tolerance
for hauling :) Neither (IMHO) needs to be. Friction at the blocks makes a
surprising difference. Single part will demand fairly substantial cordage to
allow a comfortable hand. Halyard load of course depends on how you hoist
sail; we've tended to hoist with the gaff more or less horizontal and only
once the throat was at full hoist go on to peak the gaff.
Having said that, the geometry of the peak halyard with full light-air sail
hoisted makes peaking the gaff hard work. Moving the peak halyard attachment
point a foot or so nearer the jaws eases matters. The trade off is that it
then becomes necessary to handle both halyards when taking in the first
reef. Bolger has the geometry designed such that only the throat halyard
needs to be handled for the first reef.
Bolger's Chinese Gaffer allows you to reef the sails on any point of sail,
and the lazy-lifts are a necessary part of the process. To reef: Take up on
lazy-lifts, boom weight is now on lifts, belly of sail flattened by lee
lift. Ease halyards. Haul down on reef lines fore and aft, making fast. Take
up slack on upper reef lines. Take up on halyards as necessary. Ease lifts,
boom weight transfered back to sail.
cheers
Derek
The boom-vang's job here is to prevent excessive boom lift when running
downwind - the cordage used needs to be stout enough not to stretch. Slop in
the attatchments will defeat the purpose too. Nothing fancy is neede, just
make it solid.
Whether you will need a two part on either halyard depends on your tolerance
for hauling :) Neither (IMHO) needs to be. Friction at the blocks makes a
surprising difference. Single part will demand fairly substantial cordage to
allow a comfortable hand. Halyard load of course depends on how you hoist
sail; we've tended to hoist with the gaff more or less horizontal and only
once the throat was at full hoist go on to peak the gaff.
Having said that, the geometry of the peak halyard with full light-air sail
hoisted makes peaking the gaff hard work. Moving the peak halyard attachment
point a foot or so nearer the jaws eases matters. The trade off is that it
then becomes necessary to handle both halyards when taking in the first
reef. Bolger has the geometry designed such that only the throat halyard
needs to be handled for the first reef.
Bolger's Chinese Gaffer allows you to reef the sails on any point of sail,
and the lazy-lifts are a necessary part of the process. To reef: Take up on
lazy-lifts, boom weight is now on lifts, belly of sail flattened by lee
lift. Ease halyards. Haul down on reef lines fore and aft, making fast. Take
up slack on upper reef lines. Take up on halyards as necessary. Ease lifts,
boom weight transfered back to sail.
cheers
Derek
--- arvent@h... wrote:
What is that thing marked with an arrow?
A shackle? or a block?
> The peak halyard ...http://www.hallman.org/bolger/micro/10UR.gif
> In the cartoon it is
> only shown as one
> part.)
What is that thing marked with an arrow?
A shackle? or a block?
bruce@...wrote:
line hanging down into the house swaying back and forth...
variety of attachment methods to keep everything running smoothly. Some
of the blocks will need to be fixed at certian angles, others will need
to freely rotate or swivel, some hung, some standing etc. and all done
in a manner to prevent tangles and reduce friction. That's why the boat
gear stores are full of various shackles, pins, swivels, springs, and
cleats. I like your simple approach of the lashings, and I'm sure there
are a variety of ways to lash and secure. I bet you'll sort it all out
soon enough... I'm always watching when aboard other's boats,
especially gaffers, looking at how it's rigged. It doesn't take much to
get a tangled mess.
jaws on the mast plus the sail, which when flogging around puts side
pressure on the jaws increasing friction, so ya, multi-part halyard.
luff. The vang can be set while the boom is centered and will resist
the lifting of the boom when the mainsheet is eased and the sail fills
trying to lift the boom, so a two part is not necessary. The sloop
racers are always adjusting underway so need multi-part vangs.
Keeps the boom from crashing into the house. Also useful to keep the
boom out of the way (topped off) while at anchor for those boats without
a neat pilothouse to lash the boom to.
The lazy jacks contain the mainsail as it is raised or lowered. They are
very effective in keeping things from getting out of hand.
Rick-
> --- Rick <sctree@d...> asked:Now I get it. Neat solution. I had bad visions of all these hanks of
>
> > How will you stow the lines on
> They rotate, so a
> twist of the hook causes the whole
> wrap of line to fall off.
line hanging down into the house swaying back and forth...
>Well it's just with three dozen blocks I bet you're going to need a
>
> > How will you attach lines to the
> > lexan blocks?
>
> I am not sure I understand your question,
> I will simply lash the block to the
> spar where needed with some line.
variety of attachment methods to keep everything running smoothly. Some
of the blocks will need to be fixed at certian angles, others will need
to freely rotate or swivel, some hung, some standing etc. and all done
in a manner to prevent tangles and reduce friction. That's why the boat
gear stores are full of various shackles, pins, swivels, springs, and
cleats. I like your simple approach of the lashings, and I'm sure there
are a variety of ways to lash and secure. I bet you'll sort it all out
soon enough... I'm always watching when aboard other's boats,
especially gaffers, looking at how it's rigged. It doesn't take much to
get a tangled mess.
>You are lifting the gaff 's weight plus considerable friction of the
> This
> is my first experience with a gaff rig,
> does the throat halyard traditionally
> need the extra pull of a 'mulit-part'?
jaws on the mast plus the sail, which when flogging around puts side
pressure on the jaws increasing friction, so ya, multi-part halyard.
>I'd say no, the halyard is cleated off, the downhaul then tensions the
>
>
> If the peak halyard is two part, then
> why doesn't the boom vang need 'two-part'?
> Don't they pull against each other?
luff. The vang can be set while the boom is centered and will resist
the lifting of the boom when the mainsheet is eased and the sail fills
trying to lift the boom, so a two part is not necessary. The sloop
racers are always adjusting underway so need multi-part vangs.
>The topping lift holds the boom up whenever the haylard is slacked.
>
> Also, I admit, that I barely understand
> the function of the topping lifts [or
> are they called lazy jacks?] Can anybody
> explain?
Keeps the boom from crashing into the house. Also useful to keep the
boom out of the way (topped off) while at anchor for those boats without
a neat pilothouse to lash the boom to.
The lazy jacks contain the mainsail as it is raised or lowered. They are
very effective in keeping things from getting out of hand.
Rick-
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, bruce@h... wrote:
as well as gravity, so it shouldn't need a lot of force to snug it
down. The peak halyard has to carry the weight of the sail and all
the parts connected to it. (In the cartoon it is only shown as one
part.) The extra purchase may be handy to overcome friction as well.
From what I understand the lazy jacks have two functions. One is to
stabilize the boom and the other to contain the sail panel that is
dropped when you reef. Keeps everything neat!
Perhaps Derek Waters could lend assistance here.
Cheers, Nels
> If the peak halyard is two part, thenThe boom vang is already getting a lot of "help" from the mainsheet
> why doesn't the boom vang need 'two-part'?
> Don't they pull against each other?
>
> Also, I admit, that I barely understand
> the function of the topping lifts [or
> are they called lazy jacks?] Can anybody
> explain?
as well as gravity, so it shouldn't need a lot of force to snug it
down. The peak halyard has to carry the weight of the sail and all
the parts connected to it. (In the cartoon it is only shown as one
part.) The extra purchase may be handy to overcome friction as well.
From what I understand the lazy jacks have two functions. One is to
stabilize the boom and the other to contain the sail panel that is
dropped when you reef. Keeps everything neat!
Perhaps Derek Waters could lend assistance here.
Cheers, Nels
--- Rick <sctree@d...> asked:
The hooks are fastened to wood
blocking in the ceiling/roof with
a single bolt. They rotate, so a
twist of the hook causes the whole
wrap of line to fall off. All the
lines forward don't need frequent
tending, reefing lines, halyards,
and topping lifts, and boom vang.
The sheets all run from the stern.
I will simply lash the block to the
spar where needed with some line. If
needed, I will paint the lashing with
epoxy to hold it tightly together.
Standing ends, will be lashed to the
spar, not the block. I think the most
I need is a two part tackle.
The PB&F rigging diagram is slightly
ambigous. I think I see that the gaff
throat halyard is a 'two part'. This
is my first experience with a gaff rig,
does the throat halyard traditionally
need the extra pull of a 'mulit-part'?
Retro-fitting is with extra parts will
be easy, so lots can be changed after
the 'sea trials'.
If the peak halyard is two part, then
why doesn't the boom vang need 'two-part'?
Don't they pull against each other?
Also, I admit, that I barely understand
the function of the topping lifts [or
are they called lazy jacks?] Can anybody
explain?
> How will you stow the lines onYes, wrap around and tuck the ends.
> the hooks? Wrap around the hooks?
> If so, how do you get them off in
> a rush?
The hooks are fastened to wood
blocking in the ceiling/roof with
a single bolt. They rotate, so a
twist of the hook causes the whole
wrap of line to fall off. All the
lines forward don't need frequent
tending, reefing lines, halyards,
and topping lifts, and boom vang.
The sheets all run from the stern.
> How will you attach lines to theI am not sure I understand your question,
> lexan blocks?
I will simply lash the block to the
spar where needed with some line. If
needed, I will paint the lashing with
epoxy to hold it tightly together.
Standing ends, will be lashed to the
spar, not the block. I think the most
I need is a two part tackle.
The PB&F rigging diagram is slightly
ambigous. I think I see that the gaff
throat halyard is a 'two part'. This
is my first experience with a gaff rig,
does the throat halyard traditionally
need the extra pull of a 'mulit-part'?
Retro-fitting is with extra parts will
be easy, so lots can be changed after
the 'sea trials'.
If the peak halyard is two part, then
why doesn't the boom vang need 'two-part'?
Don't they pull against each other?
Also, I admit, that I barely understand
the function of the topping lifts [or
are they called lazy jacks?] Can anybody
explain?
Looking good. I like the sliding seat and the stowable table.
A few questions, if you don't mind.
How will you stow the lines on the hooks? Wrap around the hooks? If so,
how do you get them off in a rush?
How will you attach lines to the lexan blocks?
Thanks,
Rick
Bruce Hallman wrote:
A few questions, if you don't mind.
How will you stow the lines on the hooks? Wrap around the hooks? If so,
how do you get them off in a rush?
How will you attach lines to the lexan blocks?
Thanks,
Rick
Bruce Hallman wrote:
>http://hallman.org/bolger/micro/470/[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Image #10 proves I am accumulating
> a pile of Bolger boats.
>
> The remaining pictures show my
> progress this weekend on my
> Micro Navigator project.
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/SIG=12csubgrd/M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705065791:HM/EXP=1071629113/A=1853618/R=0/*http://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60178338&partid=4116732>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
http://hallman.org/bolger/micro/470/
Image #10 proves I am accumulating
a pile of Bolger boats.
The remaining pictures show my
progress this weekend on my
Micro Navigator project.
Image #10 proves I am accumulating
a pile of Bolger boats.
The remaining pictures show my
progress this weekend on my
Micro Navigator project.