Re: Any tips on cutting bevels with a circular saw?
--- soussouchew wrote:
ripping guides. So is
Dynamite Payson, I recall.
http://www.hallman.org/roar/Ripping.jpg
Shows a picture of one in action.
They are great because you can
bring the saw to the wood, rather
than the wood to the saw.
> the saw's rip guide.I am a BIG fan of Skilsaw
ripping guides. So is
Dynamite Payson, I recall.
http://www.hallman.org/roar/Ripping.jpg
Shows a picture of one in action.
They are great because you can
bring the saw to the wood, rather
than the wood to the saw.
If the bevel you want is the same number of degrees the full
length of the piece, it is simple to just set the angle on your saw
and pre-cut it on a set of sawhorses using the saw's rip guide. If
the piece is too narrow to support the base of the saw, clamp a
piece the same thickness as the piece you are cutting along
side to support the saw base.
If the bevel changes along its length, it is best leave it square
edged to install then cut it in place on the boat by making a
series of handsaw cuts in what will be the waste material using
the angles of the frames as guides. Use a plane to remove the
material between the cuts. The saw cuts help you see when to
quit planing. If there is lots of stock to remove, you can use a
drawknife to get down close to the marks.
Vince Chew
length of the piece, it is simple to just set the angle on your saw
and pre-cut it on a set of sawhorses using the saw's rip guide. If
the piece is too narrow to support the base of the saw, clamp a
piece the same thickness as the piece you are cutting along
side to support the saw base.
If the bevel changes along its length, it is best leave it square
edged to install then cut it in place on the boat by making a
series of handsaw cuts in what will be the waste material using
the angles of the frames as guides. Use a plane to remove the
material between the cuts. The saw cuts help you see when to
quit planing. If there is lots of stock to remove, you can use a
drawknife to get down close to the marks.
Vince Chew
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Stacey Strickland"
<staceyjstrickland@y...> wrote:
to be small.Unless you plan on going into big time production with
paying customers waiting at the end of the line,the time spent on
cobbling a safe,workable and accurate jig simply isn't worth it.
Peter Lenihan
<staceyjstrickland@y...> wrote:
> Does anyone out there have any good experience or tips on how to rigUse a jack plane,especially for small boats where the chine logs tend
> up some sort of jig in order to use a regular 7" circular saw to cut
> bevels for chine logs, etc.?
to be small.Unless you plan on going into big time production with
paying customers waiting at the end of the line,the time spent on
cobbling a safe,workable and accurate jig simply isn't worth it.
Peter Lenihan
Then there is the old way of making cuts with a hand saw to establish the
bevel and planing off the wood between.
I love my Makita electric block plane. Fills the workshop with shavings in
a few minutes when making a scarf or shaping a mast. A nice, sharp, manual
plane works well but requires more support for the piece being shaped.
Pre-cutting the bevels is a good idea if you're shaping 12x12s for futtocks,
but for a small boat, I think it's as easy to bevel after the piece is on
the molds. Also, shoving a 20' chine log thru the table saw while keeping
it flat on the table and hard up against the fence is a real balancing act.
Easy to goof! I've done it often.
Does your design have a constant bevel for the chine log and sheer clamp?
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
bevel and planing off the wood between.
I love my Makita electric block plane. Fills the workshop with shavings in
a few minutes when making a scarf or shaping a mast. A nice, sharp, manual
plane works well but requires more support for the piece being shaped.
Pre-cutting the bevels is a good idea if you're shaping 12x12s for futtocks,
but for a small boat, I think it's as easy to bevel after the piece is on
the molds. Also, shoving a 20' chine log thru the table saw while keeping
it flat on the table and hard up against the fence is a real balancing act.
Easy to goof! I've done it often.
Does your design have a constant bevel for the chine log and sheer clamp?
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
I cut bevels with a small Craftsman cordless circular saw, it came with a
guide which works up to about 4".
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
guide which works up to about 4".
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
Stacy,
They used to sell a small table (similar to a router bench with
router mounted underneat, bit up, becoming a shaper) for mounting
your hand saw underneath, blade up. You could make the same yourself
from a piece of plywood with a slot for the blade. Your rip fence
can be as simple as a board c-clamped parallel to the blade (the
better aligned the cleaner the cut). Poor man's table saw.
The important difference between that - rip-cut-wise - and a "real"
table saw is the depth of cut. Most good saws use a belt-driven
arbor and a 10" or 12" blade so you can get a pretty deep cut. But,
even a direct-drive, bench-top, 8", $99 cheapy table saw is a lot
better 'n a stick in the eye if you take the time to align it.
By the way, most circular saws also come with, or offer, a rip fence
attachment that achieves the same cut, albeit with some more hand-eye
coordination required.
In practice, table saws are generally more precise and offer better
cross-cuts, plus miters and dadoes. But, a circular saw's the pick
if you had to choose one over the other.
Gregg Carlson
Tulsa, OK
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Stacey Strickland"
<staceyjstrickland@y...> wrote:
They used to sell a small table (similar to a router bench with
router mounted underneat, bit up, becoming a shaper) for mounting
your hand saw underneath, blade up. You could make the same yourself
from a piece of plywood with a slot for the blade. Your rip fence
can be as simple as a board c-clamped parallel to the blade (the
better aligned the cleaner the cut). Poor man's table saw.
The important difference between that - rip-cut-wise - and a "real"
table saw is the depth of cut. Most good saws use a belt-driven
arbor and a 10" or 12" blade so you can get a pretty deep cut. But,
even a direct-drive, bench-top, 8", $99 cheapy table saw is a lot
better 'n a stick in the eye if you take the time to align it.
By the way, most circular saws also come with, or offer, a rip fence
attachment that achieves the same cut, albeit with some more hand-eye
coordination required.
In practice, table saws are generally more precise and offer better
cross-cuts, plus miters and dadoes. But, a circular saw's the pick
if you had to choose one over the other.
Gregg Carlson
Tulsa, OK
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Stacey Strickland"
<staceyjstrickland@y...> wrote:
> Does anyone out there have any good experience or tips on how to rig
> up some sort of jig in order to use a regular 7" circular saw to cut
> bevels for chine logs, etc.?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Stacey Strickland"
<staceyjstrickland@y...> wrote:
down, but that is not the safest way to get by. If you just clamp
your work to another board then that board to some saw horses to get
things steady you can do a good job just using your rip guide on the
skil saw. If you don't have a rip guide on your saw just clamp a
piece of straight lumber to or along side your work piece to act as
a guide for the edge of the saw frame. If the chine log is really
long you may need to take the clamps off and reset things a couple
times, just don't get in a hurry. If you don't have a lot of c-
clamps you can get by using dry wall or deck screws to hold your
work, just keep them out of the way of the saw. My I wish you
straight cuts!!
<staceyjstrickland@y...> wrote:
> Does anyone out there have any good experience or tips on how torig
> up some sort of jig in order to use a regular 7" circular saw tocut
> bevels for chine logs, etc.? I saw one example on theStacey, You can build a table and mount your saw under it upside
> simplicityboats.com site under "least cuts boat", but the photo
> wasn't clear enough for me to tell how it was set up and the
> explanation wasn't complete enough either. I was hoping that Jim's
> book would have some specific tips or information, but it did not.
>
> I would greatly appreciate any information. I really don't want to
> buy a table saw if I can get by without it (I'm cheap, that's why I
> like these boats!). My first boat was a stitch and tape Bateau.com
> cheap canoe, so I didn't have to do any bevels on that one.
down, but that is not the safest way to get by. If you just clamp
your work to another board then that board to some saw horses to get
things steady you can do a good job just using your rip guide on the
skil saw. If you don't have a rip guide on your saw just clamp a
piece of straight lumber to or along side your work piece to act as
a guide for the edge of the saw frame. If the chine log is really
long you may need to take the clamps off and reset things a couple
times, just don't get in a hurry. If you don't have a lot of c-
clamps you can get by using dry wall or deck screws to hold your
work, just keep them out of the way of the saw. My I wish you
straight cuts!!
Does anyone out there have any good experience or tips on how to rig
up some sort of jig in order to use a regular 7" circular saw to cut
bevels for chine logs, etc.? I saw one example on the
simplicityboats.com site under "least cuts boat", but the photo
wasn't clear enough for me to tell how it was set up and the
explanation wasn't complete enough either. I was hoping that Jim's
book would have some specific tips or information, but it did not.
I would greatly appreciate any information. I really don't want to
buy a table saw if I can get by without it (I'm cheap, that's why I
like these boats!). My first boat was a stitch and tape Bateau.com
cheap canoe, so I didn't have to do any bevels on that one.
up some sort of jig in order to use a regular 7" circular saw to cut
bevels for chine logs, etc.? I saw one example on the
simplicityboats.com site under "least cuts boat", but the photo
wasn't clear enough for me to tell how it was set up and the
explanation wasn't complete enough either. I was hoping that Jim's
book would have some specific tips or information, but it did not.
I would greatly appreciate any information. I really don't want to
buy a table saw if I can get by without it (I'm cheap, that's why I
like these boats!). My first boat was a stitch and tape Bateau.com
cheap canoe, so I didn't have to do any bevels on that one.