RE: [bolger] Re: MDO scarfing jig?
Thanks Nels. I thought there might be some photos of the one in WB
somewhere on the net. I had found the one you mentioned here, but it's one
of the better links, I think. --Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Nels [mailto:arvent@...]
Here is the closest I could find.
http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/stitchglue/plyshophtm/scarfjig2.htm
somewhere on the net. I had found the one you mentioned here, but it's one
of the better links, I think. --Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Nels [mailto:arvent@...]
Here is the closest I could find.
http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/stitchglue/plyshophtm/scarfjig2.htm
I'm doing all my research in preparation of building a 26' Bartender
(popular double ender inboard on the west coast - primarily Oregon
and Washington). Realistically it will be about a year before I can
start cutting wood since I have to add on to my shop in order to
have a space to build it. Won't be able to pour concrete until
spring. My exisiting shop is full with the 19' jet sled I finished
about 2 1/2 years ago, and I'm very ready for another "mental
health" project.
I greatly appreciate all your help!
Dave B
(popular double ender inboard on the west coast - primarily Oregon
and Washington). Realistically it will be about a year before I can
start cutting wood since I have to add on to my shop in order to
have a space to build it. Won't be able to pour concrete until
spring. My exisiting shop is full with the 19' jet sled I finished
about 2 1/2 years ago, and I'm very ready for another "mental
health" project.
I greatly appreciate all your help!
Dave B
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <lestat@b...> wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dkb715" <lburright@c...> wrote:
> > Does anyone have any long term experience with using MDO
> > (medium density overlay) plywood for sheathing a hull?
>
>
> This is an excellent alternative to the more costly marine
plys.Make
> sure you get yourself some of the better quality MDO like those
> available through OLYMPIC PANELS(ex-Simpson Ply)like their CREZON
> line of panels.
> Indeed,as has been mentioned,you must ensure proper sealing of the
> edge grain.
> For larger lay-ups, where you intend on using two layers of ply,I
> would suggest using only the good one side panels to gain maximun
> benefit from the two wood faces and epoxy.
> When glassing over MDO,don't forget to give the surface a light
> sanding to remove any oils on the surface and to give some "tooth"
to
> the surface for a better bond.
> Properly done and maintained,there is no reason why your boat
should
> not last as long as you like if built with MDO panels.
> Remember also to read and follow the respective manufacturers
> instructions for the application of any epoxy or paint product you
> intend on using with your MDO panels.
> So.......whatcha planin' on buildin' with MDO?
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan,who works exclusively with MDO for his Bolger
Boxes :-)
> from along the shores of the mighty polluted St.Lawrence.........
Thanks, Peter, that is what I was thinking too. As far as the glass of
spirits with some garlic, I think I'll pass. Love it in food, but, uh,
don't think my tequila would go well with it. I think I'd prefer a shot or
two with lime. :) --Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:lestat@...]
Don't have the plans either but,based solely on how Windermeres
double laminate bottom is done, I think it safe to say that Bolger
does indeed simply call for straight forward butt joints with the
subsequent layer staggered 50%.That is,if one is laying the 4X8
panels athwarthship(butts every 4 feet),then the second layer is set
such that it over-laps the butt by 2 feet(50% of panel width).
As similar scheme may be what is called for on Tahiti.
Hope this helps and that you recover quickly from your cold. How
about a few stiff glass of vodka/gin/rum taken with several nice big
cloves of garlic,then quickly under the covers to sweat it out?
spirits with some garlic, I think I'll pass. Love it in food, but, uh,
don't think my tequila would go well with it. I think I'd prefer a shot or
two with lime. :) --Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:lestat@...]
> acting as a kind of butt joint for the one below it?Hi Frank,
Don't have the plans either but,based solely on how Windermeres
double laminate bottom is done, I think it safe to say that Bolger
does indeed simply call for straight forward butt joints with the
subsequent layer staggered 50%.That is,if one is laying the 4X8
panels athwarthship(butts every 4 feet),then the second layer is set
such that it over-laps the butt by 2 feet(50% of panel width).
As similar scheme may be what is called for on Tahiti.
Hope this helps and that you recover quickly from your cold. How
about a few stiff glass of vodka/gin/rum taken with several nice big
cloves of garlic,then quickly under the covers to sweat it out?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank Bales" <fbales@l...> wrote:
Here is the closest I could find.
http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/stitchglue/plyshophtm/scarfjig2.htm
The one on WB has a fancier clamping system as the guy was doing it
comercially and needed a quicker set-up.
You will notice here that he is scarfing two sheets at the same time -
in which case you can't nib them. It shows the saw blade going well
past the edge of the top scarf. To get a nib you have to have the
blade adjusted much shallower so that it will leave a bit of an edge.
Of course on thin plywood - like here - it would not work well. But
on 3/8 to 1/2" it would be great.
You hold the saw verticaly to the table end and run it along a guide
that is below the saw while pressing against the jig face with the
saw base. Seems to me the higher the table the better - up to chest
height. The jig is not constructed at a 90 degree angle but something
like 82 1/2 depending on the scarf ratio you want.
BTW the best contact I got for MDO was in Edmonton Alberta.
Also for Derek Waters - they list Campion Marine in Kelowna. Does
that sound reasonable Derek?
Cheers, Nels
> Nels, is there a Web site that shows this jig? Thanks! --FrankBHi Frank,
Here is the closest I could find.
http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/stitchglue/plyshophtm/scarfjig2.htm
The one on WB has a fancier clamping system as the guy was doing it
comercially and needed a quicker set-up.
You will notice here that he is scarfing two sheets at the same time -
in which case you can't nib them. It shows the saw blade going well
past the edge of the top scarf. To get a nib you have to have the
blade adjusted much shallower so that it will leave a bit of an edge.
Of course on thin plywood - like here - it would not work well. But
on 3/8 to 1/2" it would be great.
You hold the saw verticaly to the table end and run it along a guide
that is below the saw while pressing against the jig face with the
saw base. Seems to me the higher the table the better - up to chest
height. The jig is not constructed at a 90 degree angle but something
like 82 1/2 depending on the scarf ratio you want.
BTW the best contact I got for MDO was in Edmonton Alberta.
Also for Derek Waters - they list Campion Marine in Kelowna. Does
that sound reasonable Derek?
Cheers, Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank Bales" <fbales@l...> wrote:
is each layer
> acting as a kind of butt joint for the one below it?
Hi Frank,
Don't have the plans either but,based solely on how Windermeres
double laminate bottom is done, I think it safe to say that Bolger
does indeed simply call for straight forward butt joints with the
subsequent layer staggered 50%.That is,if one is laying the 4X8
panels athwarthship(butts every 4 feet),then the second layer is set
such that it over-laps the butt by 2 feet(50% of panel width).
As similar scheme may be what is called for on Tahiti.
Hope this helps and that you recover quickly from your cold. How
about a few stiff glass of vodka/gin/rum taken with several nice big
cloves of garlic,then quickly under the covers to sweat it out?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
The recent discussions that mentioned scarfing plywood has been interesting.
I've been reading over the four articles in MAIB that Bolger wrote about
Tahiti, and was wondering if anyone knows how he joins the five (4X8) panels
on the bottom? Here's how he describes it in the article:
"We base this hull on a straightforward 5 ply sheet hull length (5 X 8'
nominal) resulting in a structure around 39' in length."
It would appear that he isn't using scarf joints here since if so with an
8:1 ratio that would make the boat about 36' long. Since this bottom is
made up of 4 layers of 1/2" plywood (2" total thickness) is each layer
acting as a kind of butt joint for the one below it?
I've not made a final decision yet, but Tahiti is at the top of my list of
large power boats that I would like to start building in probably a year or
so. There are some others of interest (Buehler's Pilgrim for one), and I've
been talking with another NA about a similar design, which I'm expecting
some preliminary ideas from in a month or so. Not having study plans for
Tahiti is a real drawback. I've written PCB a couple of times, and he's
written back quickly with the answers to my questions, but study plans would
be so nice. The $950 for the plans is a great price, in my opinion, but
since I can't contact the builder of the first Tahiti (he hasn't given
Bolger permission, but it is on the water), and he hasn't published any
information on his building of Tahiti, it's hard for me to plunk down the
money for the plans based on four (very good) MAIB articles.
Frank (who's fighting a bad cold this New Year's eve, and not partying.
Have a Happy New Year All, and have one for me!)
I've been reading over the four articles in MAIB that Bolger wrote about
Tahiti, and was wondering if anyone knows how he joins the five (4X8) panels
on the bottom? Here's how he describes it in the article:
"We base this hull on a straightforward 5 ply sheet hull length (5 X 8'
nominal) resulting in a structure around 39' in length."
It would appear that he isn't using scarf joints here since if so with an
8:1 ratio that would make the boat about 36' long. Since this bottom is
made up of 4 layers of 1/2" plywood (2" total thickness) is each layer
acting as a kind of butt joint for the one below it?
I've not made a final decision yet, but Tahiti is at the top of my list of
large power boats that I would like to start building in probably a year or
so. There are some others of interest (Buehler's Pilgrim for one), and I've
been talking with another NA about a similar design, which I'm expecting
some preliminary ideas from in a month or so. Not having study plans for
Tahiti is a real drawback. I've written PCB a couple of times, and he's
written back quickly with the answers to my questions, but study plans would
be so nice. The $950 for the plans is a great price, in my opinion, but
since I can't contact the builder of the first Tahiti (he hasn't given
Bolger permission, but it is on the water), and he hasn't published any
information on his building of Tahiti, it's hard for me to plunk down the
money for the plans based on four (very good) MAIB articles.
Frank (who's fighting a bad cold this New Year's eve, and not partying.
Have a Happy New Year All, and have one for me!)
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank Bales" <fbales@l...> wrote:
Don't know about a web site for jig shown in Woodenboat(which
appears limited to 4' widths) but check out this:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Dakota/
and scroll down to the bottom for a nice clear illustration of a very
easy set-up for scarfing plywood.
Thanks to Vince,of Dakota fame, for this presentation:-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> Nels, is there a Web site that shows this jig? Thanks! --FrankBFrank,
>
Don't know about a web site for jig shown in Woodenboat(which
appears limited to 4' widths) but check out this:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Dakota/
and scroll down to the bottom for a nice clear illustration of a very
easy set-up for scarfing plywood.
Thanks to Vince,of Dakota fame, for this presentation:-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Nels, is there a Web site that shows this jig? Thanks! --FrankB
-----Original Message-----
From: Nels [mailto:arvent@...]
Have you seen in WB#175 (Dec2003) where they show a jig to create
what they call "nibbed scarfs"? This is what some of the kit
companies are doing. A nibbed scarf is described as follows:
"The final result is a nibbed scarf, meaning that each panel has a
slight shoulder at each side. These interlock perfectely, so it's
easy to find the right alignment, achieve a tight fit, and end up
with a perfectly fair panel."
It is very simple to perform on this jig as you have the saw blade
only cutting so the teeth dont't quite clear the thickness of the
plywood and the scarf ends in a small ridge or shoulder about half
the width of the saw kerf. (No feathering.)
Only trouble is the damn jig looks more complicated to build than a
Bolger boat:-)
But I bet it would really work well on MDO.
-----Original Message-----
From: Nels [mailto:arvent@...]
Have you seen in WB#175 (Dec2003) where they show a jig to create
what they call "nibbed scarfs"? This is what some of the kit
companies are doing. A nibbed scarf is described as follows:
"The final result is a nibbed scarf, meaning that each panel has a
slight shoulder at each side. These interlock perfectely, so it's
easy to find the right alignment, achieve a tight fit, and end up
with a perfectly fair panel."
It is very simple to perform on this jig as you have the saw blade
only cutting so the teeth dont't quite clear the thickness of the
plywood and the scarf ends in a small ridge or shoulder about half
the width of the saw kerf. (No feathering.)
Only trouble is the damn jig looks more complicated to build than a
Bolger boat:-)
But I bet it would really work well on MDO.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
Have you seen in WB#175 (Dec2003) where they show a jig to create
what they call "nibbed scarfs"? This is what some of the kit
companies are doing. A nibbed scarf is described as follows:
"The final result is a nibbed scarf, meaning that each panel has a
slight shoulder at each side. These interlock perfectely, so it's
easy to find the right alignment, achieve a tight fit, and end up
with a perfectly fair panel."
It is very simple to perform on this jig as you have the saw blade
only cutting so the teeth dont't quite clear the thickness of the
plywood and the scarf ends in a small ridge or shoulder about half
the width of the saw kerf. (No feathering.)
Only trouble is the damn jig looks more complicated to build than a
Bolger boat:-)
But I bet it would really work well on MDO.
Nels
" In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In
practice there is. Yogi Berra "
> Scarfing MDO is as easy as scarfing any plywood, except that theresin layer
> doesn't feather.Hi Roger,
Have you seen in WB#175 (Dec2003) where they show a jig to create
what they call "nibbed scarfs"? This is what some of the kit
companies are doing. A nibbed scarf is described as follows:
"The final result is a nibbed scarf, meaning that each panel has a
slight shoulder at each side. These interlock perfectely, so it's
easy to find the right alignment, achieve a tight fit, and end up
with a perfectly fair panel."
It is very simple to perform on this jig as you have the saw blade
only cutting so the teeth dont't quite clear the thickness of the
plywood and the scarf ends in a small ridge or shoulder about half
the width of the saw kerf. (No feathering.)
Only trouble is the damn jig looks more complicated to build than a
Bolger boat:-)
But I bet it would really work well on MDO.
Nels
" In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In
practice there is. Yogi Berra "
Scarfing MDO is as easy as scarfing any plywood, except that the resin layer
doesn't feather. Figure on filling the indentation and applying a painted
finish. Plywood is easy to scarf since the laminates provide guide lines
that tell you when the surface is not a plane.
re:http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/daDori.html(scroll down for scarfed
bulkheads).
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
doesn't feather. Figure on filling the indentation and applying a painted
finish. Plywood is easy to scarf since the laminates provide guide lines
that tell you when the surface is not a plane.
re:http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/daDori.html(scroll down for scarfed
bulkheads).
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nels" <arvent@...>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <lestat@b...> wrote:
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dkb715" <lburright@c...> wrote:
> > > Does anyone have any long term experience with using MDO
> > > (medium density overlay) plywood for sheathing a hull?
> >
> >
> > This is an excellent alternative to the more costly
> > marine plys. Make sure you get yourself some of the
> > better quality MDO like those available through
> > OLYMPIC PANELS(ex-Simpson Ply)like their
> > CREZON line of panels.
>
> Regarding this company - I phoned the 1-800 number of the sales rep.
> who covers my area. (Western Canada) and they seem very co-operative
> and helpful. They only sell to dealerships, and he gave me the name,
> number and contact person of the nearest locations to me.
>
> Of course their biggest sales are to concrete form builders, but they
> are quite familiar with the interests of boat builders and recommend
> the Crezon as being the most versatile. If you order ahead of time
> the dealer will likely combine your order with a bigger one to make
> the freight costs lower.
>
> They also do custom scarfing of huge panels, which of course, makes
> is pretty darn expensive to ship anywhere.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <lestat@b...> wrote:
who covers my area. (Western Canada) and they seem very co-operative
and helpful. They only sell to dealerships, and he gave me the name,
number and contact person of the nearest locations to me.
Of course their biggest sales are to concrete form builders, but they
are quite familiar with the interests of boat builders and recommend
the Crezon as being the most versatile. If you order ahead of time
the dealer will likely combine your order with a bigger one to make
the freight costs lower.
They also do custom scarfing of huge panels, which of course, makes
is pretty darn expensive to ship anywhere.
Their offices are right at the mill by the sounds of it:-)
Happy New Year!
Nels
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dkb715" <lburright@c...> wrote:plys.Make
> > Does anyone have any long term experience with using MDO
> > (medium density overlay) plywood for sheathing a hull?
>
>
> This is an excellent alternative to the more costly marine
> sure you get yourself some of the better quality MDO like thoseRegarding this company - I phoned the 1-800 number of the sales rep.
> available through OLYMPIC PANELS(ex-Simpson Ply)like their CREZON
> line of panels.
who covers my area. (Western Canada) and they seem very co-operative
and helpful. They only sell to dealerships, and he gave me the name,
number and contact person of the nearest locations to me.
Of course their biggest sales are to concrete form builders, but they
are quite familiar with the interests of boat builders and recommend
the Crezon as being the most versatile. If you order ahead of time
the dealer will likely combine your order with a bigger one to make
the freight costs lower.
They also do custom scarfing of huge panels, which of course, makes
is pretty darn expensive to ship anywhere.
Their offices are right at the mill by the sounds of it:-)
Happy New Year!
Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dkb715" <lburright@c...> wrote:
sure you get yourself some of the better quality MDO like those
available through OLYMPIC PANELS(ex-Simpson Ply)like their CREZON
line of panels.
Indeed,as has been mentioned,you must ensure proper sealing of the
edge grain.
For larger lay-ups, where you intend on using two layers of ply,I
would suggest using only the good one side panels to gain maximun
benefit from the two wood faces and epoxy.
When glassing over MDO,don't forget to give the surface a light
sanding to remove any oils on the surface and to give some "tooth" to
the surface for a better bond.
Properly done and maintained,there is no reason why your boat should
not last as long as you like if built with MDO panels.
Remember also to read and follow the respective manufacturers
instructions for the application of any epoxy or paint product you
intend on using with your MDO panels.
So.......whatcha planin' on buildin' with MDO?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,who works exclusively with MDO for his Bolger Boxes :-)
from along the shores of the mighty polluted St.Lawrence.........
> Does anyone have any long term experience with using MDOThis is an excellent alternative to the more costly marine plys.Make
> (medium density overlay) plywood for sheathing a hull?
sure you get yourself some of the better quality MDO like those
available through OLYMPIC PANELS(ex-Simpson Ply)like their CREZON
line of panels.
Indeed,as has been mentioned,you must ensure proper sealing of the
edge grain.
For larger lay-ups, where you intend on using two layers of ply,I
would suggest using only the good one side panels to gain maximun
benefit from the two wood faces and epoxy.
When glassing over MDO,don't forget to give the surface a light
sanding to remove any oils on the surface and to give some "tooth" to
the surface for a better bond.
Properly done and maintained,there is no reason why your boat should
not last as long as you like if built with MDO panels.
Remember also to read and follow the respective manufacturers
instructions for the application of any epoxy or paint product you
intend on using with your MDO panels.
So.......whatcha planin' on buildin' with MDO?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,who works exclusively with MDO for his Bolger Boxes :-)
from along the shores of the mighty polluted St.Lawrence.........
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dkb715" <lburright@c...> wrote:
Check out the sign making link for Crezon which is what Peter the
Pirate it using for Windermere. It is good looking stuff. I have
looked at some down at my local yard, and could find no sign of voids
along the edges. Unfortunately it was already made into signs!
http://www.olypanel.com/
(This company recently bought out Simpson.)
Nels
> Does anyone have any long term experience with using MDOit's
> (medium density overlay) plywood for sheathing a hull? This is the
> stuff that is commonly used for signs, concrete forms, etc. and
> finished with a resin impregnated paper product.Information about MDO is available here:
Check out the sign making link for Crezon which is what Peter the
Pirate it using for Windermere. It is good looking stuff. I have
looked at some down at my local yard, and could find no sign of voids
along the edges. Unfortunately it was already made into signs!
http://www.olypanel.com/
(This company recently bought out Simpson.)
Nels
dkb715,
I've used MDO in a dinghy bottom with good results so far. It's sheathed in
xynole and epoxy externally, but the interior is simply primed and painted
with oil-based enamel paint. Looks great so far. My only concern with MDO,
as with any plywood, is to seal the end grain with epoxy. Other than that,
take a good look at all the exterior signs surrounding you every day, and
you'll get a good idea of how weather-resistant MDO really is. IMHO, it's
good stuff when you can find it, most particularly the type that has the
overlay on both sides. Caveat: there is a single-sided product sold for
concrete form work; examine each sheet carefully! The wood quality in the
single-sided stuff varies.
David Romasco
_____
From: dkb715 [mailto:lburright@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 12:32 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] MDO plywood for the hull?
Does anyone have any long term experience with using MDO
(medium density overlay) plywood for sheathing a hull? This is the
stuff that is commonly used for signs, concrete forms, etc. and it's
finished with a resin impregnated paper product. I'm told it works
very well for lockers and other interior functions, and 1 person in
another group said he had used it successfully in building his
transom.
It seems to be the perfect alternative to marine fir ply since
it wouldn't check like fir is prone to do. I would still glass the
exterior, but I think the inside would only need to be epoxy
covered. I'm concerned however, how it will hold up over time.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
_____
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* To visit your group on the web, go to:
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* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I've used MDO in a dinghy bottom with good results so far. It's sheathed in
xynole and epoxy externally, but the interior is simply primed and painted
with oil-based enamel paint. Looks great so far. My only concern with MDO,
as with any plywood, is to seal the end grain with epoxy. Other than that,
take a good look at all the exterior signs surrounding you every day, and
you'll get a good idea of how weather-resistant MDO really is. IMHO, it's
good stuff when you can find it, most particularly the type that has the
overlay on both sides. Caveat: there is a single-sided product sold for
concrete form work; examine each sheet carefully! The wood quality in the
single-sided stuff varies.
David Romasco
_____
From: dkb715 [mailto:lburright@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 12:32 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] MDO plywood for the hull?
Does anyone have any long term experience with using MDO
(medium density overlay) plywood for sheathing a hull? This is the
stuff that is commonly used for signs, concrete forms, etc. and it's
finished with a resin impregnated paper product. I'm told it works
very well for lockers and other interior functions, and 1 person in
another group said he had used it successfully in building his
transom.
It seems to be the perfect alternative to marine fir ply since
it wouldn't check like fir is prone to do. I would still glass the
exterior, but I think the inside would only need to be epoxy
covered. I'm concerned however, how it will hold up over time.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
_____
Yahoo! Groups Links
* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I built my AF4 two years ago out of two sided MDO. It's very good stuff and
is holding up well. I will use it again the next time I build a hull that
requires 3/8" minimum thickness. The only problem with MDO is that 3/8" is
the thinnest material in the market. 1/2" and 3/4" is much more common.
is holding up well. I will use it again the next time I build a hull that
requires 3/8" minimum thickness. The only problem with MDO is that 3/8" is
the thinnest material in the market. 1/2" and 3/4" is much more common.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dkb715" <lburright@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 12:32 AM
Subject: [bolger] MDO plywood for the hull?
| Does anyone have any long term experience with using MDO
| (medium density overlay) plywood for sheathing a hull?
Does anyone have any long term experience with using MDO
(medium density overlay) plywood for sheathing a hull? This is the
stuff that is commonly used for signs, concrete forms, etc. and it's
finished with a resin impregnated paper product. I'm told it works
very well for lockers and other interior functions, and 1 person in
another group said he had used it successfully in building his
transom.
It seems to be the perfect alternative to marine fir ply since
it wouldn't check like fir is prone to do. I would still glass the
exterior, but I think the inside would only need to be epoxy
covered. I'm concerned however, how it will hold up over time.
(medium density overlay) plywood for sheathing a hull? This is the
stuff that is commonly used for signs, concrete forms, etc. and it's
finished with a resin impregnated paper product. I'm told it works
very well for lockers and other interior functions, and 1 person in
another group said he had used it successfully in building his
transom.
It seems to be the perfect alternative to marine fir ply since
it wouldn't check like fir is prone to do. I would still glass the
exterior, but I think the inside would only need to be epoxy
covered. I'm concerned however, how it will hold up over time.