Re: [bolger] tool recovery, electrolysis is best
Hi John
Yes please post it to files . I have a few things to try
this procedure on .
Thanks
Bud
-------Original Message-------
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: January 4, 2004 9:01:46 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] tool recovery, electrolysis is best
Andrew,
electrolytic rust removal is exactly what you are looking for. You can
do a search on those terms for good descriptions of the process, or send
me a direct email and I'll email you a 7 page word.doc on the topic.
I'll post it to FILES if anyone thinks that's a good idea.
All it takes is a plastic jug, a battery or charger, some electrolyte
(weak solution of baking soda and water, f'rinstance), a bit of
iron/steel/stainless (I use an old bit of car leaf spring, but a bolt or
anything ferrous will work), and a couple of clip leads (Radio Shack).
Just hook up the negative to the tool and the positive to your ferrous
electrode and let it play for a while. The tool will come out sparkling,
needing only a slight scrubbing with steel wool and some wax to keep it
from happening again. BTW, wax won't "disappear" over long storage like
oil does, but DO NOT use wax with silicone in it. Silicone will ruin
your wood projects (glue won't stick) and will migrate ALL OVER your
shop and there's nothing you can do to recover. Inever allow anything
with silicone in it in my shop. I have a can of spray stuff, but I keep
it in a cabinet on my screened porch and use it only outside in the
garden/lawn.
Also, DO NOT hook up the clip leads backwards... you will destroy the
tool. It makes the surface balck and pits deeply. Oh, yes, if the the
tool has any rust pitting, the electrololysis will not remove those.
You'll have to live with them or polish them out.
Best of luck/The Fader
johnfader(atsign)bellsouth.net
Andrew sez:
I've been lurking on the edge of this group for a year
or two - am looking for advice on recovery of
hand-tools affected by rain/rust, before I can get
back into any kind of boat work.
Have just returned to NZ from landlocked and
ocean-less Alberta,
Yahoo! Groups Links
To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yes please post it to files . I have a few things to try
this procedure on .
Thanks
Bud
-------Original Message-------
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: January 4, 2004 9:01:46 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] tool recovery, electrolysis is best
Andrew,
electrolytic rust removal is exactly what you are looking for. You can
do a search on those terms for good descriptions of the process, or send
me a direct email and I'll email you a 7 page word.doc on the topic.
I'll post it to FILES if anyone thinks that's a good idea.
All it takes is a plastic jug, a battery or charger, some electrolyte
(weak solution of baking soda and water, f'rinstance), a bit of
iron/steel/stainless (I use an old bit of car leaf spring, but a bolt or
anything ferrous will work), and a couple of clip leads (Radio Shack).
Just hook up the negative to the tool and the positive to your ferrous
electrode and let it play for a while. The tool will come out sparkling,
needing only a slight scrubbing with steel wool and some wax to keep it
from happening again. BTW, wax won't "disappear" over long storage like
oil does, but DO NOT use wax with silicone in it. Silicone will ruin
your wood projects (glue won't stick) and will migrate ALL OVER your
shop and there's nothing you can do to recover. Inever allow anything
with silicone in it in my shop. I have a can of spray stuff, but I keep
it in a cabinet on my screened porch and use it only outside in the
garden/lawn.
Also, DO NOT hook up the clip leads backwards... you will destroy the
tool. It makes the surface balck and pits deeply. Oh, yes, if the the
tool has any rust pitting, the electrololysis will not remove those.
You'll have to live with them or polish them out.
Best of luck/The Fader
johnfader(atsign)bellsouth.net
Andrew sez:
I've been lurking on the edge of this group for a year
or two - am looking for advice on recovery of
hand-tools affected by rain/rust, before I can get
back into any kind of boat work.
Have just returned to NZ from landlocked and
ocean-less Alberta,
Yahoo! Groups Links
To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
goes back to elemental iron. (just like the lead sulfide goes back to
lead in a lead/sulfur (acid) battery.
> --- johnfader wrote:You have and iron/oxygen battery. When you charge it the iron oxide
> > electrolytic rust removal
> > Just hook up the negative to the tool
> > and the positive to your ferrous
> > electrode
>
> I am trying to understand the
> chemistry here, and the reason
> for the positive on the electrode.
>
> I guess the iron ions from the
> electrode flow from high voltage
> to low voltage?
>
> Electroplating iron on the tool?
>
> And, why does the rust 'go away'?
goes back to elemental iron. (just like the lead sulfide goes back to
lead in a lead/sulfur (acid) battery.
I flunked chemistry (and physics) everytime I took it. My reading is
that the oxygen ion in ferrous oxide is the ion that goes over to
plate the iron bolt or whatever attached to the negative electrode
leaving the iron (on your chisel or whatever) intact. Or is the oxygen
just freed from the rusty tool to boil off as free oxygen? It is not a
question of voltage at all. I would guess that varying the voltage
would hasten or slow the whole reaction. I would still like to know
what to add to remove paint.
Bob Chamberland
that the oxygen ion in ferrous oxide is the ion that goes over to
plate the iron bolt or whatever attached to the negative electrode
leaving the iron (on your chisel or whatever) intact. Or is the oxygen
just freed from the rusty tool to boil off as free oxygen? It is not a
question of voltage at all. I would guess that varying the voltage
would hasten or slow the whole reaction. I would still like to know
what to add to remove paint.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> --- johnfader wrote:
> > electrolytic rust removal
> > Just hook up the negative to the tool
> > and the positive to your ferrous
> > electrode
>
> I am trying to understand the
> chemistry here, and the reason
> for the positive on the electrode.
>
> I guess the iron ions from the
> electrode flow from high voltage
> to low voltage?
>
> Electroplating iron on the tool?
>
> And, why does the rust 'go away'?
--- johnfader wrote:
chemistry here, and the reason
for the positive on the electrode.
I guess the iron ions from the
electrode flow from high voltage
to low voltage?
Electroplating iron on the tool?
And, why does the rust 'go away'?
> electrolytic rust removalI am trying to understand the
> Just hook up the negative to the tool
> and the positive to your ferrous
> electrode
chemistry here, and the reason
for the positive on the electrode.
I guess the iron ions from the
electrode flow from high voltage
to low voltage?
Electroplating iron on the tool?
And, why does the rust 'go away'?
Hi John, By all means post the pages to FILES. The next question is
what do you add to the mix to remove a little paint?
Bob Chamberland
what do you add to the mix to remove a little paint?
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, johnfader <johnfader@b...> wrote:
> Andrew,
>
> I'll post it to FILES if anyone thinks that's a good idea.
>
> All it takes is a plastic jug, a battery or charger, some electrolyte
> (weak solution of baking soda and water, f'rinstance), a bit of
> iron/steel/stainless (I use an old bit of car leaf spring, but a
bolt or
> anything ferrous will work), and a couple of clip leads (Radio Shack).
> Just hook up the negative to the tool and the positive to your ferrous
> electrode and let it play for a while. The tool will come out
sparkling,
> needing only a slight scrubbing with steel wool and some wax to keep it
> from happening again. BTW, wax won't "disappear" over long storage like
> oil does, but DO NOT use wax with silicone in it. Silicone will ruin
> your wood projects (glue won't stick) and will migrate ALL OVER your
> shop and there's nothing you can do to recover. Inever allow anything
> with silicone in it in my shop. I have a can of spray stuff, but I keep
> it in a cabinet on my screened porch and use it only outside in the
> garden/lawn.
>
> Also, DO NOT hook up the clip leads backwards... you will destroy the
> tool. It makes the surface balck and pits deeply. Oh, yes, if the the
> tool has any rust pitting, the electrololysis will not remove those.
> You'll have to live with them or polish them out.
>
> Best of luck/The Fader
> johnfader(atsign)bellsouth.net
>
Andrew,
electrolytic rust removal is exactly what you are looking for. You can
do a search on those terms for good descriptions of the process, or send
me a direct email and I'll email you a 7 page word.doc on the topic.
I'll post it to FILES if anyone thinks that's a good idea.
All it takes is a plastic jug, a battery or charger, some electrolyte
(weak solution of baking soda and water, f'rinstance), a bit of
iron/steel/stainless (I use an old bit of car leaf spring, but a bolt or
anything ferrous will work), and a couple of clip leads (Radio Shack).
Just hook up the negative to the tool and the positive to your ferrous
electrode and let it play for a while. The tool will come out sparkling,
needing only a slight scrubbing with steel wool and some wax to keep it
from happening again. BTW, wax won't "disappear" over long storage like
oil does, but DO NOT use wax with silicone in it. Silicone will ruin
your wood projects (glue won't stick) and will migrate ALL OVER your
shop and there's nothing you can do to recover. Inever allow anything
with silicone in it in my shop. I have a can of spray stuff, but I keep
it in a cabinet on my screened porch and use it only outside in the
garden/lawn.
Also, DO NOT hook up the clip leads backwards... you will destroy the
tool. It makes the surface balck and pits deeply. Oh, yes, if the the
tool has any rust pitting, the electrololysis will not remove those.
You'll have to live with them or polish them out.
Best of luck/The Fader
johnfader(atsign)bellsouth.net
Andrew sez:
I've been lurking on the edge of this group for a year
or two - am looking for advice on recovery of
hand-tools affected by rain/rust, before I can get
back into any kind of boat work.
Have just returned to NZ from landlocked and
ocean-less Alberta,and have found my chisels/planes
and many other handtools quite heavily rusted by a
water leak through the ceiling.
I'm wondering if there's any less tedious way of
removing the rust other than sitting for hours with a
roll of emery cloth, and I don't at present have a
bench grinder/wire wheel to assist. Is there any kind
of cleaner/remover which I can soak the tools in to
speed the process?
Any advice will be much appreciated.
electrolytic rust removal is exactly what you are looking for. You can
do a search on those terms for good descriptions of the process, or send
me a direct email and I'll email you a 7 page word.doc on the topic.
I'll post it to FILES if anyone thinks that's a good idea.
All it takes is a plastic jug, a battery or charger, some electrolyte
(weak solution of baking soda and water, f'rinstance), a bit of
iron/steel/stainless (I use an old bit of car leaf spring, but a bolt or
anything ferrous will work), and a couple of clip leads (Radio Shack).
Just hook up the negative to the tool and the positive to your ferrous
electrode and let it play for a while. The tool will come out sparkling,
needing only a slight scrubbing with steel wool and some wax to keep it
from happening again. BTW, wax won't "disappear" over long storage like
oil does, but DO NOT use wax with silicone in it. Silicone will ruin
your wood projects (glue won't stick) and will migrate ALL OVER your
shop and there's nothing you can do to recover. Inever allow anything
with silicone in it in my shop. I have a can of spray stuff, but I keep
it in a cabinet on my screened porch and use it only outside in the
garden/lawn.
Also, DO NOT hook up the clip leads backwards... you will destroy the
tool. It makes the surface balck and pits deeply. Oh, yes, if the the
tool has any rust pitting, the electrololysis will not remove those.
You'll have to live with them or polish them out.
Best of luck/The Fader
johnfader(atsign)bellsouth.net
Andrew sez:
I've been lurking on the edge of this group for a year
or two - am looking for advice on recovery of
hand-tools affected by rain/rust, before I can get
back into any kind of boat work.
Have just returned to NZ from landlocked and
ocean-less Alberta,and have found my chisels/planes
and many other handtools quite heavily rusted by a
water leak through the ceiling.
I'm wondering if there's any less tedious way of
removing the rust other than sitting for hours with a
roll of emery cloth, and I don't at present have a
bench grinder/wire wheel to assist. Is there any kind
of cleaner/remover which I can soak the tools in to
speed the process?
Any advice will be much appreciated.