[bolger] Re: solid wood vs. plywood for framing
I am not sure the 1/2" thick blukheads without any 3/4" solid wood framing
would be a good idea. The problem will be in getting the screws to hold
tight enough into the bulkheads through the sides to hold the sides in place
while the glue dries. There is a lot of bend to the sides. It takes some
force to hold them in place. I suppose if your transom had solid places for
screws that might be enough. Most of the outward moving force was at the
bow transom as I recall. My sides were 3/8" so were harder to bend inward
than 1/4" thick sides would be. Still I am dubious. What is the advange of
not using framing??? The bevels are not hard to cut. Build your bulkheads
about 1" wider and higher than called for, then cut them down to size with
saw set at proper angle after glue has set up. It's easy. Having your
screws pop out when you are working with those big sides will not be easy.
george fulk
-----Original Message-----
From: Brett Roper <b.roper@...>
To: 'Giuseppe 'Pippo' Bianco' <bianco@...>
Cc: 'BolgerList' <cnoto@...>; ',bolger@egroups.com' <',
bolger@egroups.com'>;bolger@egroups.com<bolger@egroups.com>
Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 6:55 AM
Subject: RE: solid wood vs. plywood for framing
would be a good idea. The problem will be in getting the screws to hold
tight enough into the bulkheads through the sides to hold the sides in place
while the glue dries. There is a lot of bend to the sides. It takes some
force to hold them in place. I suppose if your transom had solid places for
screws that might be enough. Most of the outward moving force was at the
bow transom as I recall. My sides were 3/8" so were harder to bend inward
than 1/4" thick sides would be. Still I am dubious. What is the advange of
not using framing??? The bevels are not hard to cut. Build your bulkheads
about 1" wider and higher than called for, then cut them down to size with
saw set at proper angle after glue has set up. It's easy. Having your
screws pop out when you are working with those big sides will not be easy.
george fulk
-----Original Message-----
From: Brett Roper <b.roper@...>
To: 'Giuseppe 'Pippo' Bianco' <bianco@...>
Cc: 'BolgerList' <cnoto@...>; ',bolger@egroups.com' <',
bolger@egroups.com'>;bolger@egroups.com<bolger@egroups.com>
Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 6:55 AM
Subject: RE: solid wood vs. plywood for framing
>Pippo,
>
>For my Micro I'm thinking of using 12mm (1/2inch) ply for bulkheads with
>no framing or fasteners at all. The plan is to use drywall screws to
>hold the 10mm skin in place while I epoxy fillet and fibreglass tape the
>join (as per Delvin's book). After the join sets I'll remove the screws.
>
>I plan to cut the bulkheads *without* a bevel to the inside dimension.
>The resulting gap will be filled with thickened epoxy as part of the
>filleting process. Loose joints are supposed to create better epoxy
>bonds (perhaps not this loose??).
>
>Does anyone have any comments, warnings, experience?
>
>Brett.
>
>On Wed, 15 Sep 1999, Giuseppe 'Pippo' Bianco wrote:
>
>> Dear all - I was wondering whether is could be a good idea to use
>> plywood instead of solid wood for bulkhead framing and eventually for
>> stringers (using scarfed strips od plywood). For instance, the Bolger
>> Micro framing is standardized in 3/4" thickness. I have a substantial
>> quantity of okoume 3/4" plywood, and since douglas fir here costs
>twice
>> the okoume plywood... Best, Pippo
>>