[bolger] Re: Leeboards - antifouling
Bill, would have asked this in the other message directed at you, but I had
changed the subject to mast issues. Will using leeboards for parking brakes
be a good idea in tidal waters?
jeb
At 01:05 PM 3/3/2000 -0700, you wrote:
reported good results using split copper tubing on the most wear prone edges
of his leeboards.
changed the subject to mast issues. Will using leeboards for parking brakes
be a good idea in tidal waters?
jeb
At 01:05 PM 3/3/2000 -0700, you wrote:
> You'll probably find that you use the leeboards often steady the boat whenshe is beached. There will be a lot of wear on the lower edges.. Ed Haile
reported good results using split copper tubing on the most wear prone edges
of his leeboards.
>Bill Jochems
Bjorn, I glass coated every exterior surface.
You'll probably find that you use the leeboards often steady the boat when she
is beached. There will be a lot of wear on the lower edges.. Ed Haile reported
good results using split copper tubing on the most wear prone edges of his
leeboards.
Bill Jochems
-----Original Message-----
From:Bjørn Harbo <bharbo@...>
To:bolger@...<bolger@...>
Date:Friday, March 03, 2000 11:10 AM
Subject:[bolger] Re: Leeboards - antifoulingThanks Bill, I will follow your advice. Btw: did you glass the leeboards and rudderblade?Bjorn----- Original Message -----From:William D> JochemsTo:bolger@...Sent:3. mars 2000 19:03Subject:[bolger] Re: Leeboards - antifoulingBjorn,
Sapphire, the prototype WDJ, has been in the water for almost two
years. My usual practice, when anchoring or leaving the boat in her slip, is
to drop both leeboards to the position where they float naturally. If the
leeboards are hoisted, their far outboard weight tends to make the boat a
bit tender. So, I think you should consider treating at least the inside
surfaces of the leeboards with anti-fouling.
For me the trickiest tasks were the rudder and the main tabernacle. But
both work very well and I can't imagine any other way they could have been
designed.
Bill Jochems
-----Original Message-----
From: David Ryan <david@...>
To:bolger@...<bolger@...>
Date: Friday, March 03, 2000 8:32 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Leeboards - antifouling
>>Fellow Bolger Boat Builders,
>>
>>The progress on the WDJ no 2 is slow but steady. I am about to
>>finish the rudder (a very complex piece of work in my opinion). The
>>open slot where the rudder blade is to hang is covered with epoxy
>>mixed with some sort of copper powder. A very beautiful read colour.
>>However I will not use this stuff on the hull ("normal"
>>antifouling). My concern is what to do with the leeboards. Do they
>>have to be treated with antifouling as well? Jim Melcher of Alert
>
>It would seem to me, (a person totally unfamiliar with the design,)
>that you could skip painting anti-fouling on the leaboards if you
>simply put them in the "upright" position when the boat was at anchor.
>
>
>David Ryan
>Minister of Information and Culture
>Crumbling Empire Productions
>(212) 247-0296
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Thanks Bill, I will follow
your advice. Btw: did you glass the leeboards and rudderblade?
Bjorn
----- Original Message -----From:William D> JochemsTo:bolger@...Sent:3. mars 2000 19:03Subject:[bolger] Re: Leeboards - antifoulingBjorn,
Sapphire, the prototype WDJ, has been in the water for almost two
years. My usual practice, when anchoring or leaving the boat in her slip, is
to drop both leeboards to the position where they float naturally. If the
leeboards are hoisted, their far outboard weight tends to make the boat a
bit tender. So, I think you should consider treating at least the inside
surfaces of the leeboards with anti-fouling.
For me the trickiest tasks were the rudder and the main tabernacle. But
both work very well and I can't imagine any other way they could have been
designed.
Bill Jochems
-----Original Message-----
From: David Ryan <david@...>
To:bolger@...<bolger@...>
Date: Friday, March 03, 2000 8:32 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Leeboards - antifouling
>>Fellow Bolger Boat Builders,
>>
>>The progress on the WDJ no 2 is slow but steady. I am about to
>>finish the rudder (a very complex piece of work in my opinion). The
>>open slot where the rudder blade is to hang is covered with epoxy
>>mixed with some sort of copper powder. A very beautiful read colour.
>>However I will not use this stuff on the hull ("normal"
>>antifouling). My concern is what to do with the leeboards. Do they
>>have to be treated with antifouling as well? Jim Melcher of Alert
>
>It would seem to me, (a person totally unfamiliar with the design,)
>that you could skip painting anti-fouling on the leaboards if you
>simply put them in the "upright" position when the boat was at anchor.
>
>
>David Ryan
>Minister of Information and Culture
>Crumbling Empire Productions
>(212) 247-0296
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>PERFORM CPR ON YOUR APR!
>Get a NextCard Visa, in 30 seconds! Get rates as low as
>0.0% Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR and no hidden fees.
>Apply NOW!
>http://click.egroups.com/1/2121/5/_/3457/_/952097934/
>
>-- Create a poll/survey for your group!
>--http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=bolger&m=1
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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as low as 0.0% Intro APR and no hidden fees.
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Bjorn,
Sapphire, the prototype WDJ, has been in the water for almost two
years. My usual practice, when anchoring or leaving the boat in her slip, is
to drop both leeboards to the position where they float naturally. If the
leeboards are hoisted, their far outboard weight tends to make the boat a
bit tender. So, I think you should consider treating at least the inside
surfaces of the leeboards with anti-fouling.
For me the trickiest tasks were the rudder and the main tabernacle. But
both work very well and I can't imagine any other way they could have been
designed.
Bill Jochems
-----Original Message-----
From: David Ryan <david@...>
To:bolger@...<bolger@...>
Date: Friday, March 03, 2000 8:32 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Leeboards - antifouling
Sapphire, the prototype WDJ, has been in the water for almost two
years. My usual practice, when anchoring or leaving the boat in her slip, is
to drop both leeboards to the position where they float naturally. If the
leeboards are hoisted, their far outboard weight tends to make the boat a
bit tender. So, I think you should consider treating at least the inside
surfaces of the leeboards with anti-fouling.
For me the trickiest tasks were the rudder and the main tabernacle. But
both work very well and I can't imagine any other way they could have been
designed.
Bill Jochems
-----Original Message-----
From: David Ryan <david@...>
To:bolger@...<bolger@...>
Date: Friday, March 03, 2000 8:32 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Leeboards - antifouling
>>Fellow Bolger Boat Builders,
>>
>>The progress on the WDJ no 2 is slow but steady. I am about to
>>finish the rudder (a very complex piece of work in my opinion). The
>>open slot where the rudder blade is to hang is covered with epoxy
>>mixed with some sort of copper powder. A very beautiful read colour.
>>However I will not use this stuff on the hull ("normal"
>>antifouling). My concern is what to do with the leeboards. Do they
>>have to be treated with antifouling as well? Jim Melcher of Alert
>
>It would seem to me, (a person totally unfamiliar with the design,)
>that you could skip painting anti-fouling on the leaboards if you
>simply put them in the "upright" position when the boat was at anchor.
>
>
>David Ryan
>Minister of Information and Culture
>Crumbling Empire Productions
>(212) 247-0296
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>PERFORM CPR ON YOUR APR!
>Get a NextCard Visa, in 30 seconds! Get rates as low as
>0.0% Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR and no hidden fees.
>Apply NOW!
>http://click.egroups.com/1/2121/5/_/3457/_/952097934/
>
>-- Create a poll/survey for your group!
>--http://www.egroups.com/vote?listname=bolger&m=1
>
>
>
>Fellow Bolger Boat Builders,It would seem to me, (a person totally unfamiliar with the design,)
>
>The progress on the WDJ no 2 is slow but steady. I am about to
>finish the rudder (a very complex piece of work in my opinion). The
>open slot where the rudder blade is to hang is covered with epoxy
>mixed with some sort of copper powder. A very beautiful read colour.
>However I will not use this stuff on the hull ("normal"
>antifouling). My concern is what to do with the leeboards. Do they
>have to be treated with antifouling as well? Jim Melcher of Alert
that you could skip painting anti-fouling on the leaboards if you
simply put them in the "upright" position when the boat was at anchor.
David Ryan
Minister of Information and Culture
Crumbling Empire Productions
(212) 247-0296
Fellow Bolger Boat
Builders,
The progress on the WDJ no 2
is slow but steady. I am about to finish the rudder (a very complex piece of
work in my opinion). The open slot where the rudder blade is to hang is covered
with epoxy mixed with some sort of copper powder. A very beautiful read colour.
However I will not use this stuff on the hull ("normal" antifouling). My concern
is what to do with the leeboards. Do they have to be treated with antifouling as
well? Jim Melcher of Alert would be the one to answer this but I am sure you
guys can offer good advice.
Bjorn in
Oslo