Re: Matha Jane

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> --- mannthree wrote:>
> > Is there a picture somewhere
> > that one can view?
> > John Mann
>
> Bruce,

Thanks for the diagrams,

John


I recommend that you drop PB&F
> a note asking about the Martha
> Jane stability retrofit.
>
> I think that at a minimum they
> recommend adding the flotation
> boxes and the 500 lbs steel plate
> shoe ballast.
>
> Also, I put a scan of the image at:
>
> And, yes the new lee boards look like
> an improvement. Reminiscent of the
> lee board upgrade on Fast Motor
> Sailer, I think.
>
>http://hallman.org/bolger/510/
> I recommend that you drop PB&F
> a note asking about the Martha
> Jane stability retrofit.

FWIW: I think that Ed Halle (sp?) found that getting rid of some
weight aloft by using an aluminum tube as a mast was adequate for his
MJ. I think he did some testing after the change and was satisfied.
A search of the archives may turn up some discussion.

Pete
--- mannthree wrote:>
> Is there a picture somewhere
> that one can view?
> John Mann

I recommend that you drop PB&F
a note asking about the Martha
Jane stability retrofit.

I think that at a minimum they
recommend adding the flotation
boxes and the 500 lbs steel plate
shoe ballast.

Also, I put a scan of the image at:

And, yes the new lee boards look like
an improvement. Reminiscent of the
lee board upgrade on Fast Motor
Sailer, I think.

http://hallman.org/bolger/510/
On Wed, 4 Feb 2004 21:49:29 -0500, "Frank Bales" <fbales@...> wrote:

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It seems that Yahoo just turned on this SpamGuard thing (I've seen it in a
couple groups). A quick glance at the info page doesn't mention about
opting out.

Maybe the group moderator can check the group settings page, and see if
they can turn this silly thing off....

Later,
Jon

--------------------------------------------------------------
Jon HylandsJon@...http://www.huv.com/jon

Project: Micro Seeker (Micro Autonomous Underwater Vehicle)
http://www.huv.com
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
Bruce Devlin's shop built the
> St. Valery that appeared in WB!
>
> Cheers, Nels

Course I meant Sam Devlin, Got my boat builders and golfers mixed up.

http://www.devlinboat.com/stvalerie.htm
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> --- mannthree wrote:
> > ...my Martha Jane
>
> Bruce,

Thanks for the information re history of MJ. I am particularly
interested in the new leeboard configuration that stops them kiting
off the hull. Is there a picture somewhere that one can view,

Regards,

John Mann
If you have not made the Martha Jane
> modifications, PB&F recommend that
> you should. You should fax the to
> learn more.
>
> ==cut and paste of text from MAIB below===
>
> PHIL BOLGER & FRIENDS, INC.
> BOAT DESIGNERS, P0 BOX 1209 FAX 978-282-1349
> GLOUCESTER, MA 01930, USA
>
> Bolger on Design Martha Jane #510 Revised
>
> The Martha Jane leeboard sharpie design was prepared
> in 1986 for the late Elrow LaRowe (named for Mrs.
> LaRowe). They were intended for efficient trailer
> hauling and for backwater camp-cruising. I commented
> in Boats With An Open Mind that One or two Martha
> Jane's have made offshore passages and kept the sea in
> gales. I wouldn't set off far to sea in one myself if
> I could help it. If I had to do it I would be very
> careful, but not much frightened.
>
> A large number of these boats have been built all over
> the world (LaRowe and others had rights to sell the
> plans at one time and another, and the numbers could
> be anywhere from several dozen to several hundred.) We
> have sailed two of them, finding them good sailers and
> exceptionally handy. All the owners that we heard from
> liked them, and several of them made notable inland
> and coastal cruises on their trailers and on their
> bottoms.
>
> In 1999 we heard from the second owner of one of them
> (which in previous hands had sailed for some years
> without problems), that the boat had capsized. We
> attributed the incident to flooding through an
> unsecured off-center open hatch, not on the plans,
> near the stern in the sunken afterdeck, but it
> happened again with the hatch closed. In the second
> case the boat recovered when her single-handed skipper
> got his weight out on the lowered weatherside
> leeboard.
>
> Early this year there was a more serious incident of a
> new boat which capsized, flooded, and turned
> bottom-up. This boat had been modified with a stern
> rudder and different ballasting, and the immediate
> cause of the accident was apparently the boat going
> out of control due to trouble with a mizzen sail, most
> of the ties of which had parted from the mast. But as
> far as we could tell her stability characteristics had
> not been significantly altered. The owner of this boat
> described the accident on the internet, and was
> contacted by several other owners whose boats had
> capsized. None of these had informed us, and still
> have not done so, but it looked as though the reserve
> stability of at least some boats of this class was
> less than we had estimated and had too little margin
> for inaccuracies in building, and for mistakes in
> handling, to be tolerated. Predictably, in boats of
> such light weight, MJs with cruising gear and supplies
> seemed to be steadier on their feet.
>
> Martha Jane was designed before it was customary, or
> practical with much accuracy, to calculate the
> stability of small boats. With advances in software
> and hardware capability and user-friendliness over the
> years, it has become decidedly easier to do, and we
> reassessed Martha Jane's characteristics across a
> range of structural weights, loads, and
> hull-geometries. The program has to be given a center
> of gravity, and calculating that accurately is still a
> tedious business.
>
> Stability Curve #1: We ran calculations for Martha
> Jane, on pessimistic assumptions of weight location,
> and found that her point of no return was about 60
> degrees, with a substantial negative range until the
> sealed and buoyant masts and yard immersed. Their
> volume stabilizes her and she should float on her side
> with masts under water. But if some force rolled her
> on down to 138 degrees she would go on to bottom-up.
>
> All this fits the reports: 60 degrees is an angle that
> most owners would not allow to happen; a boat might
> sail many years without being heeled that much, until
> some bad luck or bad handling showed up the danger
> point. Moreover, this characteristic is what most
> people expect of sharpies and of very shallow boats in
> general. Probably the reason we did not hear about the
> capsizes was that most people took it for granted that
> the boats were capsizable. Incidentally, we ran this
> check in both light and heavy weight estimates. The
> one shown is the heavy one, implying a weight of 2200
> lbs on the trailer with the water ballast dumped.
>
> The weakness of the design is in the very low actual
> freeboard forward and abaft the raised deck/cabin
> structure. It is masked by the high bulwarks, but the
> effective freeboard is to the top of the sunken deck,
> 20" aft as designed and less with several people
> sitting there. If the boat is knocked down on her side
> the righting force of the watertight volume in the
> after part of the boat is only about a foot above the
> ballast center and actually below the center of
> gravity of the boat; that is, it tends to capsize her
> rather than to right her at extreme angles of heel.
> Also, in a beam-ends knockdown, the crew naturally
> brace themselves with feet on the lee gunwale, with
> their whole weight actually contributing to the
> capsizing force.
>
> Stability Curve #2: The low afterdeck is one of the
> pleasantest features of the design for comfort,
> shelter, security, and efficient weight placement for
> normal sailing angles of heel. Any retrofit to improve
> the reserve stability of the boats should retain this
> feature of the design. We therefore designed sponsons
> on the outside of the bulwarks at the stern. These
> sponsons add about 200 lbs of buoyancy on each side
> and make a substantial improvement in the boat's
> reserve buoyancy and reserve stability. They will have
> no noticable effect on the performance or behavior of
> the boat in normal sailing attitudes, and very little
> effect on her looks except for their shadow if the
> sides are light-colored.
>
> We recommend that these sponsons be fitted to all
> existing and new boats to the Martha Jane design. What
> they don't do is improve her potentiality for
> capsizing very much, since they don't take effect
> until the boat is past the capsizing angle. Boats with
> this modification will be much easier to right after a
> capsize; somebody getting out on a leeboard, or
> releasing the main halyard, should allow the boat to
> right herself, but alert sailing in puffy weather is
> still very desirable!
>
> Stability Curve #3: Thus we looked at the effect of
> adding some ballast. The boats can stand the weight,
> even the numerous ones that are more or less
> overweight. If the ballast is added in the form of a
> 1/2" thick steel grounding shoe 4' long, amidships,
> and the full 6' width of the bottom we get about
> 5OOlbs. This shoe can be faired in with shims and
> epoxy forward and aft. The added drag is negligible
> and the power to carry sail is increased; that is, she
> would be faster to windward in strong wind.
>
> Incidentally, none of these curves consider the effect
> of live ballast in normal sailing, although it is
> allowed for at the extreme angles when it may have a
> bad effect. Now this curve is in the "offshore" range;
> if she was rolled bottom-up by a breaking sea, the
> next wave would right her. As in all these curves, the
> sharp rise in positive stability beyond 100 degrees is
> caused by the buoyancy of the mast, yard, and boom as
> they're immersed. If she was dismasted in a violent
> rollover, she would be relieved of their weight and be
> much more stable over to 90 degrees.
>
> Stability Curve #4: The good effect of the ballast
> shoe depends in good part on the sponsons. Without
> them the stem would settle when the after deck
> immersed at extreme angles, and she would capsize at
> 82 degrees.
>
> Other Upgrades, Stability Curves #5 and #6: We've
> taken the occasion to draw up some other upgrades
> suggested by fourteen years of experience with these
> and many other designs (a hundred and forty-eight
> designs since M-J). First, the windowed raised house
> amidships. This vastly improves the previously austere
> cuddy with 5'6" headroom (under the companionway
> hatch), and by creating a panoramic view out
> encourages crew to sit inside for shelter, shade, and
> improved sailing trim of the boat.
>
> The buoyancy of this much higher raised deck also
> produces a further large increase in the reserve
> stability and buoyancy of the boat, as shown in Curve
> #5. This one shows that the combination of added
> ballast and the high house produce a boat about as
> foolproof as they come. With the house but without the
> added ballast the effect isn't as dramatic but she's
> still entitled to be called self-righting (Curve #6).
> This option reduces the weight on the trailer by
> slightly less than 500 pounds (the higher house weighs
> a little more than thc original low raised deck by the
> amount of vertical structure in the form of framing
> and polycarbonate).
>
> We recommend that all Martha Jane's be retrofitted
> with the sponsons, and with either the added ballast
> or the high house, or both. house in other ways than
> stability, and it is Adding the ballast will be
> simpler on existing recommended. Since half of her now
> 1,000lbs boats. New boats will benefit from the high
> ballast is water and can be left behind, adding }
> 5OOlbs is too bad but should not ruin most tractor and
> trailer combinations.
>
> The house is shown extending over the forward end of
> the afterdeck, at the sides, to give some shelter
> there requiring a tiller extension. This overhang
> could be supplemented Bill Jochems' M-J in Colorado.
> No capsizes. 28 by a tent over the rest of the
> afterdeck to make it habitable at anchor in bad
> weather. We recommend this alteration in all new boats
> of the class, and that it be considered for existing
> boats especially if and when they are due for a major
> overhaul.
>
> The revised leeboard design, developed and tested in
> other designs over several years, will correct the
> tendency of the original leeboard design to kite off
> the hull. Existing leeboards will benefit by added
> ballast as close to the leading edges of the boards as
> possible. The new leeboard design allows both boards
> to be left down on all points of sailing, and precise
> adjustment of their position, independently of each
> other, for control of helm balance and steering
> steadiness. For instance, with one board down vertical
> or raked forward, and the other raked aft to the
> partly-hoisted position, the boat will tend to hold
> her course with free tiller for useful periods. With
> the pendant and downhaul arrangement of control, the
> boards need no ballast, eliminating the lead inserts
> and making them lighter to raise. This alteration is
> recommended for new boats and as a worthwhile retrofit
> to existing boats. In new construction this option
> will eliminate having to melt lead.
>
> Lastly, we show an optional steering arrangement with
> twin rudders on the stem, in place of the kick-up
> rudder under the hull. The original rudder design has
> been practically the only feature of the boat which
> elicited any complaints before the stability question
> came up. It gave sharp control, placed a simple tiller
> in ideal relationship with the best position for the
> helmsman, no dragging of her tail, and left the stem
> clear for a neat motor mounting position and for the
> mizzen sheet boomkin.
>
> The drawbacks were that it was reasonably complicated
> and costly to build and that it needed a cotter pin
> (or a bungee-cord rig) to keep it from kicking up when
> the boat reached a certain, not very fast, speed.
> Pencils made good cotter pins, being about the right
> strength to break if the exposed rudder struck or if
> the boat came down on it in a grounding.
>
> The twin rudders indicated are the best alternative we
> have thought of at this date. They are very simple to
> build and hang on standard heavier-duty pintles and
> gudgeon. They will give somewhat steadier, but not as
> quick, steering, will work on any draft that the boat
> can float on, and allow the cutout in the bottom panel
> to be eliminated. There might be a side effect at
> alarming angles of heel with the total effective
> rudder area in the water reduced when the windward one
> lifts clear of the water, and the leeward one being
> loaded up with additional pressure behind the pivot,
> the combined effect of which could be a degree of
> rounding up if overpressed. Until that's actually
> observed she is to be considered as having to be
> sailed by the helmsman in and out of potential
> trouble.
>
> Now Martha Jane is safer, a bit easier to build, with
> the savings in stainless and lead work put into
> polycarbonate transparency on the house, and while the
> original version served quite a few inland and ICW
> "roamers" well, she has become more of a cruiser yet.
>
> Complete plans for upgraded #510 Martha Jane on seven
> 17"x 22" sheets are US $250 to build one boat. Upgrade
> on 2 sheets for #510 Martha Jane are US $50 to upgrade
> one extant boat.
This wasn't spam

-----Original Message-----
From: Nels [mailto:arvent@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 12:54 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [spam] Re: Matha Jane


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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> --- mannthree wrote:
> > ...my Martha Jane
>
> If you have not made the Martha Jane
> modifications, PB&F recommend that
> you should. You should fax the to
> learn more.
>
Hi Bruce,

I would like to take this opportunity to thank you for the time and
effort you put into providing all this great information.

Also with sharing some of the SBJ cartoons. Cartoon #1 was especially
interesting as it shows some hints of things to come. The two cargo
hatches are almost identical to those for the LONG MICRO for example.

Also of interest was that Dan Segal, contributor, is the same guy
that tested the St. Valery for WB magazine and there are a few
similarities in the two designs!

I can hardly wait for the next installment (Hint hint)

Incidently, in the MJ write-up there seems to be some of the copy
that is disjointed or something. It appears in the paragraph that
begins: "We recommend that...." and the one after that begins: "The
house is shown..."

It is rather ironic that about 15 years ago, PCB had a few requests
regarding a raised house on MJ and he thought the idea was
ridiculous. I know, as I was one of the suggestors:-) I grafted a
pilothouse from a Bruce Devlin design onto the MJ profile and sent it
to him. Looked pretty sharp to my eye. Bruce Devlin's shop built the
St. Valery that appeared in WB!

Cheers, Nels
--- mannthree wrote:
> ...my Martha Jane

If you have not made the Martha Jane
modifications, PB&F recommend that
you should. You should fax the to
learn more.

==cut and paste of text from MAIB below===

PHIL BOLGER & FRIENDS, INC.
BOAT DESIGNERS, P0 BOX 1209 FAX 978-282-1349
GLOUCESTER, MA 01930, USA

Bolger on Design Martha Jane #510 Revised

The Martha Jane leeboard sharpie design was prepared
in 1986 for the late Elrow LaRowe (named for Mrs.
LaRowe). They were intended for efficient trailer
hauling and for backwater camp-cruising. I commented
in Boats With An Open Mind that One or two Martha
Jane�s have made offshore passages and kept the sea in
gales. I wouldn�t set off far to sea in one myself if
I could help it. If I had to do it I would be very
careful, but not much frightened.

A large number of these boats have been built all over
the world (LaRowe and others had rights to sell the
plans at one time and another, and the numbers could
be anywhere from several dozen to several hundred.) We
have sailed two of them, finding them good sailers and
exceptionally handy. All the owners that we heard from
liked them, and several of them made notable inland
and coastal cruises on their trailers and on their
bottoms.

In 1999 we heard from the second owner of one of them
(which in previous hands had sailed for some years
without problems), that the boat had capsized. We
attributed the incident to flooding through an
unsecured off-center open hatch, not on the plans,
near the stern in the sunken afterdeck, but it
happened again with the hatch closed. In the second
case the boat recovered when her single-handed skipper
got his weight out on the lowered weatherside
leeboard.

Early this year there was a more serious incident of a
new boat which capsized, flooded, and turned
bottom-up. This boat had been modified with a stern
rudder and different ballasting, and the immediate
cause of the accident was apparently the boat going
out of control due to trouble with a mizzen sail, most
of the ties of which had parted from the mast. But as
far as we could tell her stability characteristics had
not been significantly altered. The owner of this boat
described the accident on the internet, and was
contacted by several other owners whose boats had
capsized. None of these had informed us, and still
have not done so, but it looked as though the reserve
stability of at least some boats of this class was
less than we had estimated and had too little margin
for inaccuracies in building, and for mistakes in
handling, to be tolerated. Predictably, in boats of
such light weight, MJs with cruising gear and supplies
seemed to be steadier on their feet.

Martha Jane was designed before it was customary, or
practical with much accuracy, to calculate the
stability of small boats. With advances in software
and hardware capability and user-friendliness over the
years, it has become decidedly easier to do, and we
reassessed Martha Jane�s characteristics across a
range of structural weights, loads, and
hull-geometries. The program has to be given a center
of gravity, and calculating that accurately is still a
tedious business.

Stability Curve #1: We ran calculations for Martha
Jane, on pessimistic assumptions of weight location,
and found that her point of no return was about 60
degrees, with a substantial negative range until the
sealed and buoyant masts and yard immersed. Their
volume stabilizes her and she should float on her side
with masts under water. But if some force rolled her
on down to 138 degrees she would go on to bottom-up.

All this fits the reports: 60 degrees is an angle that
most owners would not allow to happen; a boat might
sail many years without being heeled that much, until
some bad luck or bad handling showed up the danger
point. Moreover, this characteristic is what most
people expect of sharpies and of very shallow boats in
general. Probably the reason we did not hear about the
capsizes was that most people took it for granted that
the boats were capsizable. Incidentally, we ran this
check in both light and heavy weight estimates. The
one shown is the heavy one, implying a weight of 2200
lbs on the trailer with the water ballast dumped.

The weakness of the design is in the very low actual
freeboard forward and abaft the raised deck/cabin
structure. It is masked by the high bulwarks, but the
effective freeboard is to the top of the sunken deck,
20" aft as designed and less with several people
sitting there. If the boat is knocked down on her side
the righting force of the watertight volume in the
after part of the boat is only about a foot above the
ballast center and actually below the center of
gravity of the boat; that is, it tends to capsize her
rather than to right her at extreme angles of heel.
Also, in a beam-ends knockdown, the crew naturally
brace themselves with feet on the lee gunwale, with
their whole weight actually contributing to the
capsizing force.

Stability Curve #2: The low afterdeck is one of the
pleasantest features of the design for comfort,
shelter, security, and efficient weight placement for
normal sailing angles of heel. Any retrofit to improve
the reserve stability of the boats should retain this
feature of the design. We therefore designed sponsons
on the outside of the bulwarks at the stern. These
sponsons add about 200 lbs of buoyancy on each side
and make a substantial improvement in the boat�s
reserve buoyancy and reserve stability. They will have
no noticable effect on the performance or behavior of
the boat in normal sailing attitudes, and very little
effect on her looks except for their shadow if the
sides are light-colored.

We recommend that these sponsons be fitted to all
existing and new boats to the Martha Jane design. What
they don�t do is improve her potentiality for
capsizing very much, since they don�t take effect
until the boat is past the capsizing angle. Boats with
this modification will be much easier to right after a
capsize; somebody getting out on a leeboard, or
releasing the main halyard, should allow the boat to
right herself, but alert sailing in puffy weather is
still very desirable!

Stability Curve #3: Thus we looked at the effect of
adding some ballast. The boats can stand the weight,
even the numerous ones that are more or less
overweight. If the ballast is added in the form of a
1/2" thick steel grounding shoe 4� long, amidships,
and the full 6� width of the bottom we get about
5OOlbs. This shoe can be faired in with shims and
epoxy forward and aft. The added drag is negligible
and the power to carry sail is increased; that is, she
would be faster to windward in strong wind.

Incidentally, none of these curves consider the effect
of live ballast in normal sailing, although it is
allowed for at the extreme angles when it may have a
bad effect. Now this curve is in the "offshore" range;
if she was rolled bottom-up by a breaking sea, the
next wave would right her. As in all these curves, the
sharp rise in positive stability beyond 100 degrees is
caused by the buoyancy of the mast, yard, and boom as
they�re immersed. If she was dismasted in a violent
rollover, she would be relieved of their weight and be
much more stable over to 90 degrees.

Stability Curve #4: The good effect of the ballast
shoe depends in good part on the sponsons. Without
them the stem would settle when the after deck
immersed at extreme angles, and she would capsize at
82 degrees.

Other Upgrades, Stability Curves #5 and #6: We�ve
taken the occasion to draw up some other upgrades
suggested by fourteen years of experience with these
and many other designs (a hundred and forty-eight
designs since M-J). First, the windowed raised house
amidships. This vastly improves the previously austere
cuddy with 5�6" headroom (under the companionway
hatch), and by creating a panoramic view out
encourages crew to sit inside for shelter, shade, and
improved sailing trim of the boat.

The buoyancy of this much higher raised deck also
produces a further large increase in the reserve
stability and buoyancy of the boat, as shown in Curve
#5. This one shows that the combination of added
ballast and the high house produce a boat about as
foolproof as they come. With the house but without the
added ballast the effect isn�t as dramatic but she�s
still entitled to be called self-righting (Curve #6).
This option reduces the weight on the trailer by
slightly less than 500 pounds (the higher house weighs
a little more than thc original low raised deck by the
amount of vertical structure in the form of framing
and polycarbonate).

We recommend that all Martha Jane�s be retrofitted
with the sponsons, and with either the added ballast
or the high house, or both. house in other ways than
stability, and it is Adding the ballast will be
simpler on existing recommended. Since half of her now
1,000lbs boats. New boats will benefit from the high
ballast is water and can be left behind, adding }
5OOlbs is too bad but should not ruin most tractor and
trailer combinations.

The house is shown extending over the forward end of
the afterdeck, at the sides, to give some shelter
there requiring a tiller extension. This overhang
could be supplemented Bill Jochems� M-J in Colorado.
No capsizes. 28 by a tent over the rest of the
afterdeck to make it habitable at anchor in bad
weather. We recommend this alteration in all new boats
of the class, and that it be considered for existing
boats especially if and when they are due for a major
overhaul.

The revised leeboard design, developed and tested in
other designs over several years, will correct the
tendency of the original leeboard design to kite off
the hull. Existing leeboards will benefit by added
ballast as close to the leading edges of the boards as
possible. The new leeboard design allows both boards
to be left down on all points of sailing, and precise
adjustment of their position, independently of each
other, for control of helm balance and steering
steadiness. For instance, with one board down vertical
or raked forward, and the other raked aft to the
partly-hoisted position, the boat will tend to hold
her course with free tiller for useful periods. With
the pendant and downhaul arrangement of control, the
boards need no ballast, eliminating the lead inserts
and making them lighter to raise. This alteration is
recommended for new boats and as a worthwhile retrofit
to existing boats. In new construction this option
will eliminate having to melt lead.

Lastly, we show an optional steering arrangement with
twin rudders on the stem, in place of the kick-up
rudder under the hull. The original rudder design has
been practically the only feature of the boat which
elicited any complaints before the stability question
came up. It gave sharp control, placed a simple tiller
in ideal relationship with the best position for the
helmsman, no dragging of her tail, and left the stem
clear for a neat motor mounting position and for the
mizzen sheet boomkin.

The drawbacks were that it was reasonably complicated
and costly to build and that it needed a cotter pin
(or a bungee-cord rig) to keep it from kicking up when
the boat reached a certain, not very fast, speed.
Pencils made good cotter pins, being about the right
strength to break if the exposed rudder struck or if
the boat came down on it in a grounding.

The twin rudders indicated are the best alternative we
have thought of at this date. They are very simple to
build and hang on standard heavier-duty pintles and
gudgeon. They will give somewhat steadier, but not as
quick, steering, will work on any draft that the boat
can float on, and allow the cutout in the bottom panel
to be eliminated. There might be a side effect at
alarming angles of heel with the total effective
rudder area in the water reduced when the windward one
lifts clear of the water, and the leeward one being
loaded up with additional pressure behind the pivot,
the combined effect of which could be a degree of
rounding up if overpressed. Until that�s actually
observed she is to be considered as having to be
sailed by the helmsman in and out of potential
trouble.

Now Martha Jane is safer, a bit easier to build, with
the savings in stainless and lead work put into
polycarbonate transparency on the house, and while the
original version served quite a few inland and ICW
"roamers" well, she has become more of a cruiser yet.

Complete plans for upgraded #510 Martha Jane on seven
17"x 22" sheets are US $250 to build one boat. Upgrade
on 2 sheets for #510 Martha Jane are US $50 to upgrade
one extant boat.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Seabird Aviation Australia Pty Ltd"
<seabirdaust@o...> wrote:
> Sorry about the late response to this posting but during my
research on Black Skimmer I did some reading on the Martha Jane. and
came across a few ancient items indicating that she had some
stability problems (knocked down and turned turtle. It is my
understadning that Mr Bolger did some review work of the design to
increase ballast and reserve buoyancy. Are there any articles and
pictures on the revised modifications and how have they improved the
boat's performance and safety,

John

Some in the group with a Martha Jane, or boat with similar rig, may
be interested to know that I recently fitted a bow sprit to my
Martha Jane and can now set a jib forward of the main. Performance
in light winds with the jib has improved remarkably. Goes to
windward much better also.
>
> It is a bit awkward to set and get down but over it works well.
Makes the boat look better to.
>
> Peter Adams
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Some in the group with a Martha Jane, or boat with similar rig, may
be interested to know that I recently fitted a bow sprit to my Martha
Jane


Hi Peter --

Pictures, please!

And have you noticed any lee helm due to more sail area forward? Or
increased heeling, or other handling issues? How big is the jib?

All best,
Garth
Some in the group with a Martha Jane, or boat with similar rig, may be interested to know that I recently fitted a bow sprit to my Martha Jane and can now set a jib forward of the main. Performance in light winds with the jib has improved remarkably. Goes to windward much better also.

It is a bit awkward to set and get down but over it works well. Makes the boat look better to.

Peter Adams



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]