Re: crude foils
Sounds like a good way to go. Particularly if making more than one
board. The method I mentioned doesn't require tooling or a router, can
be used on tapered or even curved foils (though I'm not sure that's
worth it), and if done carefully will get within a few thousandths of
the correct shape. You could even use it to make a jig. If I make a
fancy foil shape, I might be tempted to use wire cut foam though, since
once you are set up for it it's fairly easy to do.
board. The method I mentioned doesn't require tooling or a router, can
be used on tapered or even curved foils (though I'm not sure that's
worth it), and if done carefully will get within a few thousandths of
the correct shape. You could even use it to make a jig. If I make a
fancy foil shape, I might be tempted to use wire cut foam though, since
once you are set up for it it's fairly easy to do.
>David Davis wrote:
>
>--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
>
>
> snip
>
>>> instructions for sanding accurate foils in Mark Drela's stuff (maybe
>>
>>
>>> Apogee or Allegro plans) at www.charlesriverrc.org.
>>
>>
>
>The foil shape is easy to get in rudders, centerboard, and leeboards
>with a router. A simple jig that lays over the side of the work and
>is raised near the center of the work can be made from scrap. The
>jig can be made adjustable, or two different jigs may be used for
>the leading and trailing edges. I just made and used one on a 24 X
>78 inch leeboard and finished cutting all 4 edges in one day. I
>just used a jig with a flat incline and curved the surfaces of the
>leeboard with a belt sander, but I see no reason the jig couldn't be
>built with a curved surface if one wanted to take the time.
>
>David
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
with a router. A simple jig that lays over the side of the work and
is raised near the center of the work can be made from scrap. The
jig can be made adjustable, or two different jigs may be used for
the leading and trailing edges. I just made and used one on a 24 X
78 inch leeboard and finished cutting all 4 edges in one day. I
just used a jig with a flat incline and curved the surfaces of the
leeboard with a belt sander, but I see no reason the jig couldn't be
built with a curved surface if one wanted to take the time.
David
> There's no need for crude foils on low tech boats. With a thickwooden
> blank and a plane, it ought to be possible to rough out a goodfoil
> shape in less than a day. At least I've done it with balsa woodfor a
> model airplane wing, and working larger ought to make it easier.See
> instructions for sanding accurate foils in Mark Drela's stuff(maybe
> Apogee or Allegro plans) at www.charlesriverrc.org.The foil shape is easy to get in rudders, centerboard, and leeboards
with a router. A simple jig that lays over the side of the work and
is raised near the center of the work can be made from scrap. The
jig can be made adjustable, or two different jigs may be used for
the leading and trailing edges. I just made and used one on a 24 X
78 inch leeboard and finished cutting all 4 edges in one day. I
just used a jig with a flat incline and curved the surfaces of the
leeboard with a belt sander, but I see no reason the jig couldn't be
built with a curved surface if one wanted to take the time.
David
There's no need for crude foils on low tech boats. With a thick wooden
blank and a plane, it ought to be possible to rough out a good foil
shape in less than a day. At least I've done it with balsa wood for a
model airplane wing, and working larger ought to make it easier. See
instructions for sanding accurate foils in Mark Drela's stuff (maybe
Apogee or Allegro plans) at www.charlesriverrc.org.
blank and a plane, it ought to be possible to rough out a good foil
shape in less than a day. At least I've done it with balsa wood for a
model airplane wing, and working larger ought to make it easier. See
instructions for sanding accurate foils in Mark Drela's stuff (maybe
Apogee or Allegro plans) at www.charlesriverrc.org.