[bolger] Re: Fldg Schnr Cont.
Leander,
You gotta give it a try! All these companies, Makita, Dewalt, Porter Cable,
etc. are trying to reinvent themselves like the rest of the business world.
I know for certian that Porter Cable will fix anything that breaks, even
something 30 years old for nothing. So I'm sure the other companies are just
as intent on building fanatical customer loyalty. You owe it to them to give
them a chance. Let them know in your letter that you are going to post how
they took care of you on this web site, and give them the web address. They
will eat it up, as well they should! The drill should last a minimum of your
lifetime. Well, at least 20 years don't you think!
Chuck.
You gotta give it a try! All these companies, Makita, Dewalt, Porter Cable,
etc. are trying to reinvent themselves like the rest of the business world.
I know for certian that Porter Cable will fix anything that breaks, even
something 30 years old for nothing. So I'm sure the other companies are just
as intent on building fanatical customer loyalty. You owe it to them to give
them a chance. Let them know in your letter that you are going to post how
they took care of you on this web site, and give them the web address. They
will eat it up, as well they should! The drill should last a minimum of your
lifetime. Well, at least 20 years don't you think!
Chuck.
Didn't see the Skil. Sounds real good. You really think Makita would
repalce the drill after 9 years?
Leander
cpcorrei-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=712
repalce the drill after 9 years?
Leander
cpcorrei-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=712
> Leander,send it
>
> I wouldn't be surprised if Makita replaces your drill for free if you
> back. It's true you now have one you like better, but free is free,and then
> you'll have certian luxury with two cordless sets. Some might evencall you
> wealthy if they see both drills out at the same time. Maybe it couldbe tyhe
> start of your oldest boys own tools. I sure wish my father wouldhave helped
> me start.my eyes
>
> I too was in home Depot the other day and was looking for a cordless,
> fell on the new skill cordless, I think the 13.4 volt, but the reallyneat
> thing is that it has a dual power source. Plugs in and has abattery. All
> this for $129.00. If I remeber the Firestorm was $99.00. Was thedual power
> source Skill one of your options. Is it something worth the $30bucks extra.
>
> Thanks for all the information on building the FS.
>
> God Speed,
> Chuck.
Chuck:
I saw the dual power drill, but bought the firestorm. I could not figure
out the advantage of having a cord, except it would keep you from being able
to move around. If you have two batteries, you should almost never run out
of power, as one will charge about as fast as one gets used up. Adding will
not give you more torque either, as that is set by the motor.
I got the firestorm partly because I already had one like it. Now I have
two drills that use the same batteries, two chargers, and four batteries. I
am in drill heaven.
Chuck
I saw the dual power drill, but bought the firestorm. I could not figure
out the advantage of having a cord, except it would keep you from being able
to move around. If you have two batteries, you should almost never run out
of power, as one will charge about as fast as one gets used up. Adding will
not give you more torque either, as that is set by the motor.
I got the firestorm partly because I already had one like it. Now I have
two drills that use the same batteries, two chargers, and four batteries. I
am in drill heaven.
Chuck
> Leander,it
>
> I wouldn't be surprised if Makita replaces your drill for free if you send
> back. It's true you now have one you like better, but free is free, andthen
> you'll have certian luxury with two cordless sets. Some might even callyou
> wealthy if they see both drills out at the same time. Maybe it could betyhe
> start of your oldest boys own tools. I sure wish my father would havehelped
> me start.eyes
>
> I too was in home Depot the other day and was looking for a cordless, my
> fell on the new skill cordless, I think the 13.4 volt, but the really neatAll
> thing is that it has a dual power source. Plugs in and has a battery.
> this for $129.00. If I remeber the Firestorm was $99.00. Was the dualpower
> source Skill one of your options. Is it something worth the $30 bucksextra.
>
> Thanks for all the information on building the FS.
>
> God Speed,
> Chuck.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -- Check out your eGroup's private Chat room
> --http://www.egroups.com/ChatPage?listName=bolger&m=1
>
>
>
Leander,
I wouldn't be surprised if Makita replaces your drill for free if you send it
back. It's true you now have one you like better, but free is free, and then
you'll have certian luxury with two cordless sets. Some might even call you
wealthy if they see both drills out at the same time. Maybe it could be tyhe
start of your oldest boys own tools. I sure wish my father would have helped
me start.
I too was in home Depot the other day and was looking for a cordless, my eyes
fell on the new skill cordless, I think the 13.4 volt, but the really neat
thing is that it has a dual power source. Plugs in and has a battery. All
this for $129.00. If I remeber the Firestorm was $99.00. Was the dual power
source Skill one of your options. Is it something worth the $30 bucks extra.
Thanks for all the information on building the FS.
God Speed,
Chuck.
I wouldn't be surprised if Makita replaces your drill for free if you send it
back. It's true you now have one you like better, but free is free, and then
you'll have certian luxury with two cordless sets. Some might even call you
wealthy if they see both drills out at the same time. Maybe it could be tyhe
start of your oldest boys own tools. I sure wish my father would have helped
me start.
I too was in home Depot the other day and was looking for a cordless, my eyes
fell on the new skill cordless, I think the 13.4 volt, but the really neat
thing is that it has a dual power source. Plugs in and has a battery. All
this for $129.00. If I remeber the Firestorm was $99.00. Was the dual power
source Skill one of your options. Is it something worth the $30 bucks extra.
Thanks for all the information on building the FS.
God Speed,
Chuck.
Still putting together the frames and bulkheads for the aft hull. We
have used various methods to attach the framing material to the plywood
including bronze silicon ring nails and 3/4" bronze silicon screws. We
have switched to 3/4" stainless steel phillips head screws which we got
from Merton's MA at about half price of the local marine store. As many
folk in the list have suggested they are much, much easier to work
with. I haven't been able to find ss screws with square drive smaller
than 1 and 1/4" but these screws with square drive would be ideal. The
3/4" screws are not bugle head and not really self countersinking,
though the ply is so soft that they can be countersunk by torquing them
down. It does a neater and more dependable job if you just notch the
ply with the countersink. It takes two of us a surprisingly long time
to assemble a bulkhead. We have found that clamping the material in
position with small c clamps (spring clamps move too much) before
drilling for the screws insures perfect alignment of the prebeveled
frames with the bulkhead edges. We clamp it; Put in a couple of screws
in each frame piece, Take it apart, put on the glue, and refasten,
adding additional screws every 4". We are leaving some of the detail
framing for the motor platform until assembly. It is hard to make out
all the detail from the plan alone. There doesn't seem to be any reason
we can't put it in after the sides are on when it should be more
obvious how it all fits together.
This project has seen the demise of some of our most beloved tools. I
wrote earlier about the death of our twenty year old el cheapo circular
saw. We have had a Makita 9.6 volt cordless drill for years and years.
Used it to build our Gypsy and a Six Hour Canoe, as well as a couple of
tree houses. It just quit the other day in the middle of building a
frame. A fresh battery did nothing. We took it apart and couldn't see
anything obvious. Just worn out I guess. So we went off to Home Depot
and bought one of the new Black and Decker 13 volt Firestorm cordless
drills. It has more umph than the venerable Makita and seemed like a
good value. I had intended to get a cheap plug in. Home Depot had a
demonstration going that day and after trying some plug ins for screw
driving I felt the cordless drills are really more designed with
driving/drilling in mind. The dril we bought has a very easy high low
switch and and 24 gears to choose from. Would have liked a nice Porter
Cable but they were just about double the price. So I decided to take a
chance on Black and Decker's self invented come back. Been very happy
with it so far and it is possible to turn the screws very slowly for
the last few turns.
Peace,
Leander
have used various methods to attach the framing material to the plywood
including bronze silicon ring nails and 3/4" bronze silicon screws. We
have switched to 3/4" stainless steel phillips head screws which we got
from Merton's MA at about half price of the local marine store. As many
folk in the list have suggested they are much, much easier to work
with. I haven't been able to find ss screws with square drive smaller
than 1 and 1/4" but these screws with square drive would be ideal. The
3/4" screws are not bugle head and not really self countersinking,
though the ply is so soft that they can be countersunk by torquing them
down. It does a neater and more dependable job if you just notch the
ply with the countersink. It takes two of us a surprisingly long time
to assemble a bulkhead. We have found that clamping the material in
position with small c clamps (spring clamps move too much) before
drilling for the screws insures perfect alignment of the prebeveled
frames with the bulkhead edges. We clamp it; Put in a couple of screws
in each frame piece, Take it apart, put on the glue, and refasten,
adding additional screws every 4". We are leaving some of the detail
framing for the motor platform until assembly. It is hard to make out
all the detail from the plan alone. There doesn't seem to be any reason
we can't put it in after the sides are on when it should be more
obvious how it all fits together.
This project has seen the demise of some of our most beloved tools. I
wrote earlier about the death of our twenty year old el cheapo circular
saw. We have had a Makita 9.6 volt cordless drill for years and years.
Used it to build our Gypsy and a Six Hour Canoe, as well as a couple of
tree houses. It just quit the other day in the middle of building a
frame. A fresh battery did nothing. We took it apart and couldn't see
anything obvious. Just worn out I guess. So we went off to Home Depot
and bought one of the new Black and Decker 13 volt Firestorm cordless
drills. It has more umph than the venerable Makita and seemed like a
good value. I had intended to get a cheap plug in. Home Depot had a
demonstration going that day and after trying some plug ins for screw
driving I felt the cordless drills are really more designed with
driving/drilling in mind. The dril we bought has a very easy high low
switch and and 24 gears to choose from. Would have liked a nice Porter
Cable but they were just about double the price. So I decided to take a
chance on Black and Decker's self invented come back. Been very happy
with it so far and it is possible to turn the screws very slowly for
the last few turns.
Peace,
Leander
Still chipping away at the Folding Schooner. The forward hull is
complete and glassed. It still needs all its bits and pieces, decking,
bottom stiffeners, etc. We have cut out all the bulkheads and framing
material for the aft hull and assembled all but #14 and the aft
transom. No bevels were given for #14. This was confusing because
otherwise the plans gave bevels full size or said clearly no bevel.
After much discussion we plotted the bevels off the plan. We got the
side bevel off the full length top down view and the bottom bevel off
the full length side view. My son used a protractor and straight edge
to lift the bevels. The angles seemed consistent with the transom.
There will be a momnet of truth we assemble the aft hull. We will take
our time and do some dry fitting before getting carried away with glue.
We have been using the same technique as with the forward hull and
putting the bevels on the framing stock with our table saw and putting
the stock on the bulkheads cut out square. This worked quite fine on
the forward hull.
The weather has been beautiful here but the nights are too cold for
epoxy to cure. The side panels for the aft hull have been cut out and
have the 8" butt blocks glued on but still need tape on the other side.
Our shop is the garage. We are going to have to figure some way to heat
it up while we are gluing.
Heading in to a busier time of year and we are slowed down to about one
day a week and an hour stolen here and there. The project continues to
be a challenge and a joy. It is great to hear of other Folding
Schooners out there. Wouldn't a Folding Schooner Regata be great.
Peace,
Leander
complete and glassed. It still needs all its bits and pieces, decking,
bottom stiffeners, etc. We have cut out all the bulkheads and framing
material for the aft hull and assembled all but #14 and the aft
transom. No bevels were given for #14. This was confusing because
otherwise the plans gave bevels full size or said clearly no bevel.
After much discussion we plotted the bevels off the plan. We got the
side bevel off the full length top down view and the bottom bevel off
the full length side view. My son used a protractor and straight edge
to lift the bevels. The angles seemed consistent with the transom.
There will be a momnet of truth we assemble the aft hull. We will take
our time and do some dry fitting before getting carried away with glue.
We have been using the same technique as with the forward hull and
putting the bevels on the framing stock with our table saw and putting
the stock on the bulkheads cut out square. This worked quite fine on
the forward hull.
The weather has been beautiful here but the nights are too cold for
epoxy to cure. The side panels for the aft hull have been cut out and
have the 8" butt blocks glued on but still need tape on the other side.
Our shop is the garage. We are going to have to figure some way to heat
it up while we are gluing.
Heading in to a busier time of year and we are slowed down to about one
day a week and an hour stolen here and there. The project continues to
be a challenge and a joy. It is great to hear of other Folding
Schooners out there. Wouldn't a Folding Schooner Regata be great.
Peace,
Leander
The weather is beautiful here clear, dry but cool. It is just this side
and that of the 65 degree working temp of the epoxy. My third coat on
the bottom came out quite well. It looks like putting a space heater
under the boat did raise the temp enough to get the epoxy started well.
I turned it off at night because I was nervous about the little space
heater running all night long even though I had cleaned up the shop and
made sure there was nothing flamable near it. It was in the fifties
last night but when I came down this morning the epoxy was quite hard.
I am sure it is still curing so I put the heater back under it for a
while. It will be in the high 60's today. I have a few places the size
of my hand where the weave didn't quite fill. It is just hard for me to
see these when everything is shiny and wet. I can get these easily with
a brush some time when we have some extra epoxy left over from sealing
or gluing. I going to go ahead and put on the bottom stiffeners and
that may take care of some of these spots when we glue up for them. The
epoxy bottom has already added amazing rigidity to the structure and is
of course quite tough. There is still a little give right in the center
of the widest beam. Using 3/8" ply for the bottom without cloth or
lighter cloth would make for a much quicker job.
This morning I cleaned up the frame I made yesterday and laid out and
cut the circular cut out. It is 9" in diameter but offset so that there
is a flat bottom to the circle that follows the bottom framing. The
little router compass that we made from some Luan is working well. The
thin straight bit that Chuck recommended works extremely well in the
Luan. I used a flush cutting bit to get the flat at the bottom. I also
had a ring nail that came out too close to an edge and had to spend
some time with a file and nail set getting it out of sight. Unlike
screws these things don't like to go back out the way they went in.
It is going to be an hour here and an hour there for awhile but the
project is moving forward.
Peace,
Leander
and that of the 65 degree working temp of the epoxy. My third coat on
the bottom came out quite well. It looks like putting a space heater
under the boat did raise the temp enough to get the epoxy started well.
I turned it off at night because I was nervous about the little space
heater running all night long even though I had cleaned up the shop and
made sure there was nothing flamable near it. It was in the fifties
last night but when I came down this morning the epoxy was quite hard.
I am sure it is still curing so I put the heater back under it for a
while. It will be in the high 60's today. I have a few places the size
of my hand where the weave didn't quite fill. It is just hard for me to
see these when everything is shiny and wet. I can get these easily with
a brush some time when we have some extra epoxy left over from sealing
or gluing. I going to go ahead and put on the bottom stiffeners and
that may take care of some of these spots when we glue up for them. The
epoxy bottom has already added amazing rigidity to the structure and is
of course quite tough. There is still a little give right in the center
of the widest beam. Using 3/8" ply for the bottom without cloth or
lighter cloth would make for a much quicker job.
This morning I cleaned up the frame I made yesterday and laid out and
cut the circular cut out. It is 9" in diameter but offset so that there
is a flat bottom to the circle that follows the bottom framing. The
little router compass that we made from some Luan is working well. The
thin straight bit that Chuck recommended works extremely well in the
Luan. I used a flush cutting bit to get the flat at the bottom. I also
had a ring nail that came out too close to an edge and had to spend
some time with a file and nail set getting it out of sight. Unlike
screws these things don't like to go back out the way they went in.
It is going to be an hour here and an hour there for awhile but the
project is moving forward.
Peace,
Leander
Thanks to all for the encouragement and advice. Pariticipating in this
list has brought a whole new dimension to backyard boat building.
Cellar/.garage building in our case. Both flotation suggestons are
very helpful. I know exactly what the Australiam Wine Coolers look
like. About 20 years ago I worked for an Australian firm and spent some
time floating around Sydney Harbour and back waters in a Trawler Yacht
which was well supplied with these containers filled with excellent
Australian wine. Looking back on it the company chairman must have had
a major flotation project he was working on because he was very intent
on emptying these things. John Dory, Blue Point Oysters and a rousing
rendetion of "The Man From Snowy River." Quite Wonderful and
Unforgettable.
Leander
"jeff gilbert" <jgilber-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=355
list has brought a whole new dimension to backyard boat building.
Cellar/.garage building in our case. Both flotation suggestons are
very helpful. I know exactly what the Australiam Wine Coolers look
like. About 20 years ago I worked for an Australian firm and spent some
time floating around Sydney Harbour and back waters in a Trawler Yacht
which was well supplied with these containers filled with excellent
Australian wine. Looking back on it the company chairman must have had
a major flotation project he was working on because he was very intent
on emptying these things. John Dory, Blue Point Oysters and a rousing
rendetion of "The Man From Snowy River." Quite Wonderful and
Unforgettable.
Leander
"jeff gilbert" <jgilber-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=355
> Attn: Leander, Chucksilver
>
> Re : Flotation
>
> In Australia you can buy wine in 4litre containers with a liner of
> coated plastic with 2 layers of plastic bag inside. The whole thing(4litres
> or 4kg flot.) is held in a cardboard box & measures 120 x 180 x210mm. The
> liners themselves are great for flotation...25 of them weigh a kiloand
> hold up 80-100 depending on degree of inflation. The spout is asnap-plastic
> bizzo which requires constant pressure to hold open. The beauty ofthem is
> that they will fit in any space, but in an accident they wont allburst, or
> escape if you wrap the lot in an old fishing net. If you contact awine
> distributor i'm sure you can get them in bulk, unless you want toempty them
> personally, or like I do collect them from the whole street. I'm sureyoud
> get them in America or Europe as all our marketing methods aresecond-hand!
> Aside: Donald Campbell during his record attempt on ConistonWater had
> every available space in his 1950hp Spitfire engined 1950hp filledwith ping
> pong balls! They must have left quite an epitaph.
> -Jeff Gilbert
>
Leander,
Greg has a great little program for calculating those birds mouth
staves for your hollow mast. I think it's in the "vault" or shared area
or something of the egroups site. I'm thinking of doing one for my
Featherwind. Check it out. Thanks for the great updates.
david
harding2@...wrote:
to make a sample piece to see if we can master the technology. Looks
like it would be reasonably easy to do on our little table saw. Still
waiting for cloth and epoxy to come. Contemplating the purchase of a
shopvac. Got by all the years without one but it is looking real handy
especially with fiberglass dust in the offing. Any recommendations?
More Later
Peace,
Leander
Simplicity Boats (mirror sites - if one doesn't work...)
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/
http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/
Here's my latest boat:
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/featherwind.html
Quasi esoteric musical instruments
unicornstrings.com
Greg has a great little program for calculating those birds mouth
staves for your hollow mast. I think it's in the "vault" or shared area
or something of the egroups site. I'm thinking of doing one for my
Featherwind. Check it out. Thanks for the great updates.
david
harding2@...wrote:
>staves with birdmouths cut in. When we get to that point we are going
> Reread a neat article in Wooden Boat about making hollow masts of thin
to make a sample piece to see if we can master the technology. Looks
like it would be reasonably easy to do on our little table saw. Still
waiting for cloth and epoxy to come. Contemplating the purchase of a
shopvac. Got by all the years without one but it is looking real handy
especially with fiberglass dust in the offing. Any recommendations?
More Later
Peace,
Leander
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> [click here]
> Click Here!
> eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
> www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
Simplicity Boats (mirror sites - if one doesn't work...)
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/
http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/
Here's my latest boat:
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/featherwind.html
Quasi esoteric musical instruments
unicornstrings.com
Leander:
Your updates are so compelling that I can't seem to keep responding.
Flotation: I have been able to get white styrofoam from a "foam cutter" in
San Antonio, TX. Any reasonable sized town should have one. These guys
bold the stuff in large (8' x 8' x 16') blocks, then cut it up for
packaging, and insulation, etc. Sometimes they have odd pieces, or
overruns. Ask what their price is for custom cuts. It should be way
cheaper than the blue stuff. Look in the yellow pages under foam, or
plastic.
Having said that, I also like the empty jug idea, and the watertight
compartment plan. I must say, however, that if it were me, I would probably
have the hatch open when the boat capsized.
Good luck, guys
Chuck
Your updates are so compelling that I can't seem to keep responding.
Flotation: I have been able to get white styrofoam from a "foam cutter" in
San Antonio, TX. Any reasonable sized town should have one. These guys
bold the stuff in large (8' x 8' x 16') blocks, then cut it up for
packaging, and insulation, etc. Sometimes they have odd pieces, or
overruns. Ask what their price is for custom cuts. It should be way
cheaper than the blue stuff. Look in the yellow pages under foam, or
plastic.
Having said that, I also like the empty jug idea, and the watertight
compartment plan. I must say, however, that if it were me, I would probably
have the hatch open when the boat capsized.
Good luck, guys
Chuck
> Worked on the boat tonight planing a bevel in the gunwale so that the
> deck will lay flat. On the forward hull this is the forepeak area and
> the bridge deck area just ahead of the transom of the forward hull. We
> kept trying to figure out how to do this with a router but settled on
> using a jack plane. Sharpened the plane blades on a belt sander and
> went to it. The material actually came off fairly quickly. We also made
> up a sanding board to go gunwale to gunwale with floor sanding paper on
> it to try to keep both gunwales in something close to the same plane.
> The forepeak didn't really need it but it helped on the transom area.
> This decking detail is very modestly supported by the plans, at least
> for neophytes like us. There is a full scale section but it is not at a
> frame. To get the right bevel at the intersection with the frames would
> mean cutting down the whole frame. We decided against that and
> feathered in toward the frame. It leaves us with an inch or so right in
> front of the frame which will have to be built up with a little epoxy
> putty by 1/16 to 1/8". This looks easier than taking the whole thing
> down to us. I have probably spent two hours staring at the boat trying
> to figure out how to put in this detail. Running bevels boggle my mind.
>
> My son got out his calculator and figured out that"2" blue styrofoam
> insulation is almost half the price per cubic inch of regular flotation
> billetts. He is still lobbying for making the flotation out of plastic
> water jugs. I haven't quite given up on making watertight voids but am
> still daunted by making absolutely watertight compartments in the
> spaces available and the cost of hatches.
>
> Noticed belatedly that the plan revisions call for a slight bevel of no
> more than 1/16" in the forward face of the forward transom of the aft
> hull according to the plans "ie after side biggest" which completely
> confuses me. What is a side biggest? I assume this is a slight relief
> which will keep the hulls from binding when they are unfolded. We have
> already made this transom. We went to great lenghts to make these two
> transoms exactly the same so there wouldn't be a bump in the middle of
> the unfolded boat. Did that the very first thing before we made any
> other frames. I don't feel very motivated to make a new transom. Figure
> it will work out if we relieve both transoms a little with a belt
> sander or perhaps cant the forward aft transom by 1/16 off its marks. I
> wonder if the other folding schoonerite on the list notices this detail
> in his assembled boat?
>
> Noticed another aspect of the plans we don't quite undertand. The
> frames in the aft hull have bottom and side bevels given except for a
> frame at #14 just ahead of the aft transom of the aft hull which
> provides framing for the motor well. No bottom or side bevels are given
> for this station. In other places frames without bevel are clearly
> marked no bevel. This doesn't give a bevel or say "no bevel."
> Confusing. Not quite sure what to do. Planning on cutting it to the
> dimensions given and putting in after the others are in place, planing
> if necessary. Calling Dynamite Payson three times in 10 years begins to
> seem like harassment.
>
> Reread a neat article in Wooden Boat about making hollow masts of thin
> staves with birdmouths cut in. When we get to that point we are going
> to make a sample piece to see if we can master the technology. Looks
> like it would be reasonably easy to do on our little table saw. Still
> waiting for cloth and epoxy to come. Contemplating the purchase of a
> shopvac. Got by all the years without one but it is looking real handy
> especially with fiberglass dust in the offing. Any recommendations?
> More Later
> Peace,
> Leander
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
hey Leander... enjoy your updates... a little suggestion on the dust
thing... I have used a box fan with a furnace filter bungee corded to
the intake side for years.. It is not a pretty site but it really does
take a lot of dust out of the air.. clean ( vacume) the filter.. and
for gods sake wear a mask when sanding epoxy ( or anything else) !!!!
Chris Flynn
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=351
thing... I have used a box fan with a furnace filter bungee corded to
the intake side for years.. It is not a pretty site but it really does
take a lot of dust out of the air.. clean ( vacume) the filter.. and
for gods sake wear a mask when sanding epoxy ( or anything else) !!!!
Chris Flynn
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=351
> Worked on the boat tonight planing a bevel in the gunwale so that themade
> deck will lay flat. On the forward hull this is the forepeak area and
> the bridge deck area just ahead of the transom of the forward hull. We
> kept trying to figure out how to do this with a router but settled on
> using a jack plane. Sharpened the plane blades on a belt sander and
> went to it. The material actually came off fairly quickly. We also
> up a sanding board to go gunwale to gunwale with floor sanding paperon
> it to try to keep both gunwales in something close to the same plane.a
> The forepeak didn't really need it but it helped on the transom area.
> This decking detail is very modestly supported by the plans, at least
> for neophytes like us. There is a full scale section but it is not at
> frame. To get the right bevel at the intersection with the frameswould
> mean cutting down the whole frame. We decided against that andin
> feathered in toward the frame. It leaves us with an inch or so right
> front of the frame which will have to be built up with a little epoxymind.
> putty by 1/16 to 1/8". This looks easier than taking the whole thing
> down to us. I have probably spent two hours staring at the boat trying
> to figure out how to put in this detail. Running bevels boggle my
>flotation
> My son got out his calculator and figured out that"2" blue styrofoam
> insulation is almost half the price per cubic inch of regular
> billetts. He is still lobbying for making the flotation out of plasticno
> water jugs. I haven't quite given up on making watertight voids but am
> still daunted by making absolutely watertight compartments in the
> spaces available and the cost of hatches.
>
> Noticed belatedly that the plan revisions call for a slight bevel of
> more than 1/16" in the forward face of the forward transom of the aftFigure
> hull according to the plans "ie after side biggest" which completely
> confuses me. What is a side biggest? I assume this is a slight relief
> which will keep the hulls from binding when they are unfolded. We have
> already made this transom. We went to great lenghts to make these two
> transoms exactly the same so there wouldn't be a bump in the middle of
> the unfolded boat. Did that the very first thing before we made any
> other frames. I don't feel very motivated to make a new transom.
> it will work out if we relieve both transoms a little with a beltI
> sander or perhaps cant the forward aft transom by 1/16 off its marks.
> wonder if the other folding schoonerite on the list notices thisdetail
> in his assembled boat?given
>
> Noticed another aspect of the plans we don't quite undertand. The
> frames in the aft hull have bottom and side bevels given except for a
> frame at #14 just ahead of the aft transom of the aft hull which
> provides framing for the motor well. No bottom or side bevels are
> for this station. In other places frames without bevel are clearlyto
> marked no bevel. This doesn't give a bevel or say "no bevel."
> Confusing. Not quite sure what to do. Planning on cutting it to the
> dimensions given and putting in after the others are in place, planing
> if necessary. Calling Dynamite Payson three times in 10 years begins
> seem like harassment.
>
> Reread a neat article in Wooden Boat about making hollow masts of thin
> staves with birdmouths cut in. When we get to that point we are going
> to make a sample piece to see if we can master the technology. Looks
> like it would be reasonably easy to do on our little table saw. Still
> waiting for cloth and epoxy to come. Contemplating the purchase of a
> shopvac. Got by all the years without one but it is looking real handy
> especially with fiberglass dust in the offing. Any recommendations?
> More Later
> Peace,
> Leander
>
Worked on the boat tonight planing a bevel in the gunwale so that the
deck will lay flat. On the forward hull this is the forepeak area and
the bridge deck area just ahead of the transom of the forward hull. We
kept trying to figure out how to do this with a router but settled on
using a jack plane. Sharpened the plane blades on a belt sander and
went to it. The material actually came off fairly quickly. We also made
up a sanding board to go gunwale to gunwale with floor sanding paper on
it to try to keep both gunwales in something close to the same plane.
The forepeak didn't really need it but it helped on the transom area.
This decking detail is very modestly supported by the plans, at least
for neophytes like us. There is a full scale section but it is not at a
frame. To get the right bevel at the intersection with the frames would
mean cutting down the whole frame. We decided against that and
feathered in toward the frame. It leaves us with an inch or so right in
front of the frame which will have to be built up with a little epoxy
putty by 1/16 to 1/8". This looks easier than taking the whole thing
down to us. I have probably spent two hours staring at the boat trying
to figure out how to put in this detail. Running bevels boggle my mind.
My son got out his calculator and figured out that"2" blue styrofoam
insulation is almost half the price per cubic inch of regular flotation
billetts. He is still lobbying for making the flotation out of plastic
water jugs. I haven't quite given up on making watertight voids but am
still daunted by making absolutely watertight compartments in the
spaces available and the cost of hatches.
Noticed belatedly that the plan revisions call for a slight bevel of no
more than 1/16" in the forward face of the forward transom of the aft
hull according to the plans "ie after side biggest" which completely
confuses me. What is a side biggest? I assume this is a slight relief
which will keep the hulls from binding when they are unfolded. We have
already made this transom. We went to great lenghts to make these two
transoms exactly the same so there wouldn't be a bump in the middle of
the unfolded boat. Did that the very first thing before we made any
other frames. I don't feel very motivated to make a new transom. Figure
it will work out if we relieve both transoms a little with a belt
sander or perhaps cant the forward aft transom by 1/16 off its marks. I
wonder if the other folding schoonerite on the list notices this detail
in his assembled boat?
Noticed another aspect of the plans we don't quite undertand. The
frames in the aft hull have bottom and side bevels given except for a
frame at #14 just ahead of the aft transom of the aft hull which
provides framing for the motor well. No bottom or side bevels are given
for this station. In other places frames without bevel are clearly
marked no bevel. This doesn't give a bevel or say "no bevel."
Confusing. Not quite sure what to do. Planning on cutting it to the
dimensions given and putting in after the others are in place, planing
if necessary. Calling Dynamite Payson three times in 10 years begins to
seem like harassment.
Reread a neat article in Wooden Boat about making hollow masts of thin
staves with birdmouths cut in. When we get to that point we are going
to make a sample piece to see if we can master the technology. Looks
like it would be reasonably easy to do on our little table saw. Still
waiting for cloth and epoxy to come. Contemplating the purchase of a
shopvac. Got by all the years without one but it is looking real handy
especially with fiberglass dust in the offing. Any recommendations?
More Later
Peace,
Leander
deck will lay flat. On the forward hull this is the forepeak area and
the bridge deck area just ahead of the transom of the forward hull. We
kept trying to figure out how to do this with a router but settled on
using a jack plane. Sharpened the plane blades on a belt sander and
went to it. The material actually came off fairly quickly. We also made
up a sanding board to go gunwale to gunwale with floor sanding paper on
it to try to keep both gunwales in something close to the same plane.
The forepeak didn't really need it but it helped on the transom area.
This decking detail is very modestly supported by the plans, at least
for neophytes like us. There is a full scale section but it is not at a
frame. To get the right bevel at the intersection with the frames would
mean cutting down the whole frame. We decided against that and
feathered in toward the frame. It leaves us with an inch or so right in
front of the frame which will have to be built up with a little epoxy
putty by 1/16 to 1/8". This looks easier than taking the whole thing
down to us. I have probably spent two hours staring at the boat trying
to figure out how to put in this detail. Running bevels boggle my mind.
My son got out his calculator and figured out that"2" blue styrofoam
insulation is almost half the price per cubic inch of regular flotation
billetts. He is still lobbying for making the flotation out of plastic
water jugs. I haven't quite given up on making watertight voids but am
still daunted by making absolutely watertight compartments in the
spaces available and the cost of hatches.
Noticed belatedly that the plan revisions call for a slight bevel of no
more than 1/16" in the forward face of the forward transom of the aft
hull according to the plans "ie after side biggest" which completely
confuses me. What is a side biggest? I assume this is a slight relief
which will keep the hulls from binding when they are unfolded. We have
already made this transom. We went to great lenghts to make these two
transoms exactly the same so there wouldn't be a bump in the middle of
the unfolded boat. Did that the very first thing before we made any
other frames. I don't feel very motivated to make a new transom. Figure
it will work out if we relieve both transoms a little with a belt
sander or perhaps cant the forward aft transom by 1/16 off its marks. I
wonder if the other folding schoonerite on the list notices this detail
in his assembled boat?
Noticed another aspect of the plans we don't quite undertand. The
frames in the aft hull have bottom and side bevels given except for a
frame at #14 just ahead of the aft transom of the aft hull which
provides framing for the motor well. No bottom or side bevels are given
for this station. In other places frames without bevel are clearly
marked no bevel. This doesn't give a bevel or say "no bevel."
Confusing. Not quite sure what to do. Planning on cutting it to the
dimensions given and putting in after the others are in place, planing
if necessary. Calling Dynamite Payson three times in 10 years begins to
seem like harassment.
Reread a neat article in Wooden Boat about making hollow masts of thin
staves with birdmouths cut in. When we get to that point we are going
to make a sample piece to see if we can master the technology. Looks
like it would be reasonably easy to do on our little table saw. Still
waiting for cloth and epoxy to come. Contemplating the purchase of a
shopvac. Got by all the years without one but it is looking real handy
especially with fiberglass dust in the offing. Any recommendations?
More Later
Peace,
Leander
Attn: Leander, Chuck
Re : Flotation
In Australia you can buy wine in 4litre containers with a liner of silver
coated plastic with 2 layers of plastic bag inside. The whole thing (4litres
or 4kg flot.) is held in a cardboard box & measures 120 x 180 x 210mm. The
liners themselves are great for flotation...25 of them weigh a kilo and
hold up 80-100 depending on degree of inflation. The spout is a snap-plastic
bizzo which requires constant pressure to hold open. The beauty of them is
that they will fit in any space, but in an accident they wont all burst, or
escape if you wrap the lot in an old fishing net. If you contact a wine
distributor i'm sure you can get them in bulk, unless you want to empty them
personally, or like I do collect them from the whole street. I'm sure youd
get them in America or Europe as all our marketing methods are second-hand!
Aside: Donald Campbell during his record attempt on Coniston Water had
every available space in his 1950hp Spitfire engined 1950hp filled with ping
pong balls! They must have left quite an epitaph.
-Jeff Gilbert
Re : Flotation
In Australia you can buy wine in 4litre containers with a liner of silver
coated plastic with 2 layers of plastic bag inside. The whole thing (4litres
or 4kg flot.) is held in a cardboard box & measures 120 x 180 x 210mm. The
liners themselves are great for flotation...25 of them weigh a kilo and
hold up 80-100 depending on degree of inflation. The spout is a snap-plastic
bizzo which requires constant pressure to hold open. The beauty of them is
that they will fit in any space, but in an accident they wont all burst, or
escape if you wrap the lot in an old fishing net. If you contact a wine
distributor i'm sure you can get them in bulk, unless you want to empty them
personally, or like I do collect them from the whole street. I'm sure youd
get them in America or Europe as all our marketing methods are second-hand!
Aside: Donald Campbell during his record attempt on Coniston Water had
every available space in his 1950hp Spitfire engined 1950hp filled with ping
pong balls! They must have left quite an epitaph.
-Jeff Gilbert