Re: [bolger] Re: Taped seam - Epoxy 'chunks' removal
Different strokes, I guess. I dislike the Surform's tendency to clog &
dull.
For me, THE tool, at least for coarse wood shaping, is the shoemaker's rasp;
curved on one side and flat on the other, with two different styles of teeth
on each. The pointy teeth take off material quickly and the flatter,
smoother teeth restore the surface quality left ragged by the other teeth.
About 8" long, square on each end (no tang), cheap.
Some call it a "shoe rasp." see
http://www.cornerhardware.com/item_263316/Hand-Tools/Files-Rasps-Wire-Brushes/Rasps/8-4-1-Shoe-Rasp.html
for a picture of Vermont American's version.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
dull.
For me, THE tool, at least for coarse wood shaping, is the shoemaker's rasp;
curved on one side and flat on the other, with two different styles of teeth
on each. The pointy teeth take off material quickly and the flatter,
smoother teeth restore the surface quality left ragged by the other teeth.
About 8" long, square on each end (no tang), cheap.
Some call it a "shoe rasp." see
http://www.cornerhardware.com/item_263316/Hand-Tools/Files-Rasps-Wire-Brushes/Rasps/8-4-1-Shoe-Rasp.html
for a picture of Vermont American's version.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Magen" <quohog@...>
<snip>
>
> On the positive side, they are typically just at the end of the 'green'
> stage. Either way, there is a near perfect tool for knocking these
> 'chunks' to manageable size. . . the SURFORM tool.
>
<snip>
>
> The Surform is also THE tool for fast & rough hand shaping of wood
> stock. It DOES take a little 'sweat equity', but you do have very good
> control and the 'shorty' fits nicely in the apron or overall pocket.
I've been trying to keep my nose out of this discussion . . . but this
last got, 'to close to home'.
One of the difficulties of working with epoxy in cooler temperatures, is
that the 'runs' {'curtaining'} & 'sags' happen so slowly you don't see
them until the next morning.
On the positive side, they are typically just at the end of the 'green'
stage. Either way, there is a near perfect tool for knocking these
'chunks' to manageable size. . . the SURFORM tool.
These are a Stanley product. They are basically a flat piece of steel,
pierced like a very large 'cheese grater'. {There is also at least one
other supplier, of 'finer' stainless steel ones - sold in BOTH
woodworking and *Food Preparation* venues}. They come in about 4
different shapes. A round one, like a 'Rat Tail' file is sort of
'unique'. Two others, a 9 inch {?} flat, and another that is slightly
outward curved, interchangeably fit into handles that are shaped like
either a file, or a plane. Another, flat one, about 6 inches long, fits
into a 'handle' like a low-angle plane.
The bottom line is this . . . with epoxy in the beginning of the 'green'
stage, you can scrape it off with a stiff putty knife {the Surform will
actually 'clog' because it's like cutting putty}. When the epoxy cures a
bit more {hard to dent with a fingernail}, the Surform takes it off just
like it was cutting hard cheese. No dust, but long, soft, 'slivers'.
When the epoxy has cured more, and is harder, you simply have to push
harder. Then you will get some dust and smaller 'chunks' coming off.
Also the blades will start to dull. Eventually, the epoxy will cure so
hard that the tool will start to 'skate' or slip. That's the time to
change to an angle grinder with 24-grit disks.
The Surform is also THE tool for fast & rough hand shaping of wood
stock. It DOES take a little 'sweat equity', but you do have very good
control and the 'shorty' fits nicely in the apron or overall pocket.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
{Next we'll talk about 'long boarding' and forearms like 'Popeye' . .
.etc}
last got, 'to close to home'.
One of the difficulties of working with epoxy in cooler temperatures, is
that the 'runs' {'curtaining'} & 'sags' happen so slowly you don't see
them until the next morning.
On the positive side, they are typically just at the end of the 'green'
stage. Either way, there is a near perfect tool for knocking these
'chunks' to manageable size. . . the SURFORM tool.
These are a Stanley product. They are basically a flat piece of steel,
pierced like a very large 'cheese grater'. {There is also at least one
other supplier, of 'finer' stainless steel ones - sold in BOTH
woodworking and *Food Preparation* venues}. They come in about 4
different shapes. A round one, like a 'Rat Tail' file is sort of
'unique'. Two others, a 9 inch {?} flat, and another that is slightly
outward curved, interchangeably fit into handles that are shaped like
either a file, or a plane. Another, flat one, about 6 inches long, fits
into a 'handle' like a low-angle plane.
The bottom line is this . . . with epoxy in the beginning of the 'green'
stage, you can scrape it off with a stiff putty knife {the Surform will
actually 'clog' because it's like cutting putty}. When the epoxy cures a
bit more {hard to dent with a fingernail}, the Surform takes it off just
like it was cutting hard cheese. No dust, but long, soft, 'slivers'.
When the epoxy has cured more, and is harder, you simply have to push
harder. Then you will get some dust and smaller 'chunks' coming off.
Also the blades will start to dull. Eventually, the epoxy will cure so
hard that the tool will start to 'skate' or slip. That's the time to
change to an angle grinder with 24-grit disks.
The Surform is also THE tool for fast & rough hand shaping of wood
stock. It DOES take a little 'sweat equity', but you do have very good
control and the 'shorty' fits nicely in the apron or overall pocket.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
{Next we'll talk about 'long boarding' and forearms like 'Popeye' . .
.etc}
> Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 15:17:16 -0800SNIP
> From: sctree <sctree@...>
> Subject: Re: Taped Seams Concern/Boat Status
>
> Tim Rohrer wrote:
>
> > Rick,
> >
> > Thanks for the detailed post! Great info and I like
> > the thoughts. I had not known about using fairing
> > filler so I will try that. I also like that idea
> > better than sanding. However, I have a few spots
> > where the epoxy ran/slid. Would it be a good idea to
> > knock those off with the grinder even if they are not
> > real big?