Re: wood for framing, spars and oars? hearn hardwords
That has got to be the best lumberyard i have ever seen. I've never
even heard of some of those tropical hardwoods. 4500 year old bog
oak salvaged from a swamp! That web page is a dendrology lesson in
itself, always wondered what the specific gravity of olive wood was.
Only 4 hours away....road trip?
Thanks for the info.
Jason
even heard of some of those tropical hardwoods. 4500 year old bog
oak salvaged from a swamp! That web page is a dendrology lesson in
itself, always wondered what the specific gravity of olive wood was.
Only 4 hours away....road trip?
Thanks for the info.
Jason
Don't be too sure there isn't a good local source for wood other than
the big chains. I've found that there is usually a great place within
an hour or two of any major or minor city, but you have to look for
them. They are frequently advertised as selling hardwoods, but they
sell good soft woods too like cedar, mahogany, etc. I once found
"spanish cedar" which is similar to mahogany for less than $3 per
board foot at one of these places.
A few years ago, I needed to repair the mast on my AS-29 and I wanted
to scarf in some clear longleaf yellow pine to do a good job of it.
Any type of clear pine in a 2x8 cross section is not to be found at
any of the normal sources around here. I asked at the local lumber
yard and they told me about an awesome place that happens to be only
45 minutes from where I live. I would have *never* found it on my
own, but it happens to be one of the biggest hardwood dealers in the
US (http://www.hearnehardwoods.com). I've lived in other places and
always eventually found a great nearby resource for good lumber.
Be wary of places that cater to the "Fine Woodworking" hobbyists like
Woodcraft. Their prices can be twice what these out of the way places
are.
the big chains. I've found that there is usually a great place within
an hour or two of any major or minor city, but you have to look for
them. They are frequently advertised as selling hardwoods, but they
sell good soft woods too like cedar, mahogany, etc. I once found
"spanish cedar" which is similar to mahogany for less than $3 per
board foot at one of these places.
A few years ago, I needed to repair the mast on my AS-29 and I wanted
to scarf in some clear longleaf yellow pine to do a good job of it.
Any type of clear pine in a 2x8 cross section is not to be found at
any of the normal sources around here. I asked at the local lumber
yard and they told me about an awesome place that happens to be only
45 minutes from where I live. I would have *never* found it on my
own, but it happens to be one of the biggest hardwood dealers in the
US (http://www.hearnehardwoods.com). I've lived in other places and
always eventually found a great nearby resource for good lumber.
Be wary of places that cater to the "Fine Woodworking" hobbyists like
Woodcraft. Their prices can be twice what these out of the way places
are.
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, cha62759@t... wrote:
> Hi Jason, In your search for structural wood you might as well forget
> about rot resistence. Most wood available from common sources will not
> be rot resistant to any practical degree. Best are redwood western
> redcedar for rot resistence but not the best for structural lumber. So
> called whitewood around here is graded SPF or spruce pine fir and the
> fir is not douglasfir but western varieties of true fir. I'm building
> Howard Chappelle's "Camp Skiff" he specifies White pine, yellow pine
> mahogany, ash, birch, cedar interchangeably for the most part. The
> best strategy is to make periodic trips to Lowe's or Home Depot and
> check out the various piles of whitewood SPF and find the best sticks
> even if only one at a time. Pick out sticks that look, feel and weigh
> about the same-they will probably be the same species. Eventually you
> will have enough to get started. The mast I built for Bolgers Bobcat
> was from SPF 2x6x10s I scarffed for length and the mast is fine. It is
> painted because of the pin knots but I have plenty of confidence in it
> structurally.I believe the checking problem is more severe in
> plywoods, especially douglasfir plywoood, where there is a pronounced
> difference between summer wood and winter wood. You have been reading
> the "plywood" conversation I'm sure.
> Bob Chamberland
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "smithriverranger" <jasonstancil@h...>
> wrote:
> > First let me say thanks for everyones imput, I should have swung in
> > here before i built my other boats.....things would have been much
> > smoother. I believe the checking problem is more severe in plywoods
> especially douglasfir plywoood where there is a pronounced difference
> between summer wood and winter wood. You have been reading the
> "plywood" conversation I'm sure.
> Bob Chamberland
> >
> > Looking into lumber for my fast approaching project. I'm a park
> > ranger a can pick out about any tree as it stands in the woods but
> > i'm no forrester i have'nt a clue what they are good for.
> > I have a very limited source of wood around here without driving 200
> > miles so help me out and tell me the properties of a couple a types
> > of woods i have access to.
> >
> > Pine?.....soft and not very rot resistant, glues well?
> > Whitewood from LOWES?....have'nt a clue what this is
> > Oak?...heavy, strong doesn't like epoxy/glue but is rot resistant?
> > Cedar?.....grows in swampy areas and seems a bit oily...i'm assuming
> > very rot resistant?....how does it glue bend etc?
> > Fir?.....this and pine is what i always have used for gunwhales and
> > such but i don't know about logetivity and the checking thing.
> > Spruce....can't get it here.
> >
> > since this is what i have available what do you folks recomend i
> > make my spars, framing and gunwhales out of? I've been snooping
> > aroung lumber yards and i can find some decent stuff but nothing
> > like CVG for the spars.
> >
> >
> > I've been convinced to spent the money on ply, i am going to go with
> > either MDO (still waiting on the quote or some okume i found a
> > decent deal on.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jason Stancil
Don't be too sure there isn't a good local source for wood other than
the big chains. I've found that there is usually a great place within
an hour or two of any major or minor city, but you have to look for
them. They are frequently advertised as selling hardwoods, but they
sell good soft woods too like cedar, mahogany, etc. I once found
"spanish cedar" which is similar to mahogany for less than $3 per
board foot at one of these places.
A few years ago, I needed to repair the mast on my AS-29 and I wanted
to scarf in some clear longleaf yellow pine to do a good job of it.
Any type of clear pine in a 2x8 cross section is not to be found at
any of the normal sources around here. I asked at the local lumber
yard and they told me about an awesome place that happens to be only
45 minutes from where I live. I would have *never* found it on my
own, but it happens to be one of the biggest hardwood dealers in the
US (http://www.hearnehardwoods.com). I've lived in other places and
always eventually found a great nearby resource for good lumber.
Be wary of places that cater to the "Fine Woodworking" hobbyists like
Woodcraft or Woodworkers Store. Their prices can be twice what these
out of the way places are.
Frank San Miguel
Landenberg, PA
the big chains. I've found that there is usually a great place within
an hour or two of any major or minor city, but you have to look for
them. They are frequently advertised as selling hardwoods, but they
sell good soft woods too like cedar, mahogany, etc. I once found
"spanish cedar" which is similar to mahogany for less than $3 per
board foot at one of these places.
A few years ago, I needed to repair the mast on my AS-29 and I wanted
to scarf in some clear longleaf yellow pine to do a good job of it.
Any type of clear pine in a 2x8 cross section is not to be found at
any of the normal sources around here. I asked at the local lumber
yard and they told me about an awesome place that happens to be only
45 minutes from where I live. I would have *never* found it on my
own, but it happens to be one of the biggest hardwood dealers in the
US (http://www.hearnehardwoods.com). I've lived in other places and
always eventually found a great nearby resource for good lumber.
Be wary of places that cater to the "Fine Woodworking" hobbyists like
Woodcraft or Woodworkers Store. Their prices can be twice what these
out of the way places are.
Frank San Miguel
Landenberg, PA
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, cha62759@t... wrote:
> Hi Jason, In your search for structural wood you might as well forget
> about rot resistence. Most wood available from common sources will not
> be rot resistant to any practical degree. Best are redwood western
> redcedar for rot resistence but not the best for structural lumber. So
> called whitewood around here is graded SPF or spruce pine fir and the
> fir is not douglasfir but western varieties of true fir. I'm building
> Howard Chappelle's "Camp Skiff" he specifies White pine, yellow pine
> mahogany, ash, birch, cedar interchangeably for the most part. The
> best strategy is to make periodic trips to Lowe's or Home Depot and
> check out the various piles of whitewood SPF and find the best sticks
> even if only one at a time. Pick out sticks that look, feel and weigh
> about the same-they will probably be the same species. Eventually you
> will have enough to get started. The mast I built for Bolgers Bobcat
> was from SPF 2x6x10s I scarffed for length and the mast is fine. It is
> painted because of the pin knots but I have plenty of confidence in it
> structurally.I believe the checking problem is more severe in
> plywoods, especially douglasfir plywoood, where there is a pronounced
> difference between summer wood and winter wood. You have been reading
> the "plywood" conversation I'm sure.
> Bob Chamberland
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "smithriverranger" <jasonstancil@h...>
> wrote:
> > First let me say thanks for everyones imput, I should have swung in
> > here before i built my other boats.....things would have been much
> > smoother. I believe the checking problem is more severe in plywoods
> especially douglasfir plywoood where there is a pronounced difference
> between summer wood and winter wood. You have been reading the
> "plywood" conversation I'm sure.
> Bob Chamberland
> >
> > Looking into lumber for my fast approaching project. I'm a park
> > ranger a can pick out about any tree as it stands in the woods but
> > i'm no forrester i have'nt a clue what they are good for.
> > I have a very limited source of wood around here without driving 200
> > miles so help me out and tell me the properties of a couple a types
> > of woods i have access to.
> >
> > Pine?.....soft and not very rot resistant, glues well?
> > Whitewood from LOWES?....have'nt a clue what this is
> > Oak?...heavy, strong doesn't like epoxy/glue but is rot resistant?
> > Cedar?.....grows in swampy areas and seems a bit oily...i'm assuming
> > very rot resistant?....how does it glue bend etc?
> > Fir?.....this and pine is what i always have used for gunwhales and
> > such but i don't know about logetivity and the checking thing.
> > Spruce....can't get it here.
> >
> > since this is what i have available what do you folks recomend i
> > make my spars, framing and gunwhales out of? I've been snooping
> > aroung lumber yards and i can find some decent stuff but nothing
> > like CVG for the spars.
> >
> >
> > I've been convinced to spent the money on ply, i am going to go with
> > either MDO (still waiting on the quote or some okume i found a
> > decent deal on.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jason Stancil
Hi Jason, In your search for structural wood you might as well forget
about rot resistence. Most wood available from common sources will not
be rot resistant to any practical degree. Best are redwood western
redcedar for rot resistence but not the best for structural lumber. So
called whitewood around here is graded SPF or spruce pine fir and the
fir is not douglasfir but western varieties of true fir. I'm building
Howard Chappelle's "Camp Skiff" he specifies White pine, yellow pine
mahogany, ash, birch, cedar interchangeably for the most part. The
best strategy is to make periodic trips to Lowe's or Home Depot and
check out the various piles of whitewood SPF and find the best sticks
even if only one at a time. Pick out sticks that look, feel and weigh
about the same-they will probably be the same species. Eventually you
will have enough to get started. The mast I built for Bolgers Bobcat
was from SPF 2x6x10s I scarffed for length and the mast is fine. It is
painted because of the pin knots but I have plenty of confidence in it
structurally.I believe the checking problem is more severe in
plywoods, especially douglasfir plywoood, where there is a pronounced
difference between summer wood and winter wood. You have been reading
the "plywood" conversation I'm sure.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "smithriverranger" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
between summer wood and winter wood. You have been reading the
"plywood" conversation I'm sure.
Bob Chamberland
about rot resistence. Most wood available from common sources will not
be rot resistant to any practical degree. Best are redwood western
redcedar for rot resistence but not the best for structural lumber. So
called whitewood around here is graded SPF or spruce pine fir and the
fir is not douglasfir but western varieties of true fir. I'm building
Howard Chappelle's "Camp Skiff" he specifies White pine, yellow pine
mahogany, ash, birch, cedar interchangeably for the most part. The
best strategy is to make periodic trips to Lowe's or Home Depot and
check out the various piles of whitewood SPF and find the best sticks
even if only one at a time. Pick out sticks that look, feel and weigh
about the same-they will probably be the same species. Eventually you
will have enough to get started. The mast I built for Bolgers Bobcat
was from SPF 2x6x10s I scarffed for length and the mast is fine. It is
painted because of the pin knots but I have plenty of confidence in it
structurally.I believe the checking problem is more severe in
plywoods, especially douglasfir plywoood, where there is a pronounced
difference between summer wood and winter wood. You have been reading
the "plywood" conversation I'm sure.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "smithriverranger" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> First let me say thanks for everyones imput, I should have swung inespecially douglasfir plywoood where there is a pronounced difference
> here before i built my other boats.....things would have been much
> smoother. I believe the checking problem is more severe in plywoods
between summer wood and winter wood. You have been reading the
"plywood" conversation I'm sure.
Bob Chamberland
>
> Looking into lumber for my fast approaching project. I'm a park
> ranger a can pick out about any tree as it stands in the woods but
> i'm no forrester i have'nt a clue what they are good for.
> I have a very limited source of wood around here without driving 200
> miles so help me out and tell me the properties of a couple a types
> of woods i have access to.
>
> Pine?.....soft and not very rot resistant, glues well?
> Whitewood from LOWES?....have'nt a clue what this is
> Oak?...heavy, strong doesn't like epoxy/glue but is rot resistant?
> Cedar?.....grows in swampy areas and seems a bit oily...i'm assuming
> very rot resistant?....how does it glue bend etc?
> Fir?.....this and pine is what i always have used for gunwhales and
> such but i don't know about logetivity and the checking thing.
> Spruce....can't get it here.
>
> since this is what i have available what do you folks recomend i
> make my spars, framing and gunwhales out of? I've been snooping
> aroung lumber yards and i can find some decent stuff but nothing
> like CVG for the spars.
>
>
> I've been convinced to spent the money on ply, i am going to go with
> either MDO (still waiting on the quote or some okume i found a
> decent deal on.
>
> Thanks,
> Jason Stancil
First let me say thanks for everyones imput, I should have swung in
here before i built my other boats.....things would have been much
smoother.
Looking into lumber for my fast approaching project. I'm a park
ranger a can pick out about any tree as it stands in the woods but
i'm no forrester i have'nt a clue what they are good for.
I have a very limited source of wood around here without driving 200
miles so help me out and tell me the properties of a couple a types
of woods i have access to.
Pine?.....soft and not very rot resistant, glues well?
Whitewood from LOWES?....have'nt a clue what this is
Oak?...heavy, strong doesn't like epoxy/glue but is rot resistant?
Cedar?.....grows in swampy areas and seems a bit oily...i'm assuming
very rot resistant?....how does it glue bend etc?
Fir?.....this and pine is what i always have used for gunwhales and
such but i don't know about logetivity and the checking thing.
Spruce....can't get it here.
since this is what i have available what do you folks recomend i
make my spars, framing and gunwhales out of? I've been snooping
aroung lumber yards and i can find some decent stuff but nothing
like CVG for the spars.
I've been convinced to spent the money on ply, i am going to go with
either MDO (still waiting on the quote or some okume i found a
decent deal on.
Thanks,
Jason Stancil
here before i built my other boats.....things would have been much
smoother.
Looking into lumber for my fast approaching project. I'm a park
ranger a can pick out about any tree as it stands in the woods but
i'm no forrester i have'nt a clue what they are good for.
I have a very limited source of wood around here without driving 200
miles so help me out and tell me the properties of a couple a types
of woods i have access to.
Pine?.....soft and not very rot resistant, glues well?
Whitewood from LOWES?....have'nt a clue what this is
Oak?...heavy, strong doesn't like epoxy/glue but is rot resistant?
Cedar?.....grows in swampy areas and seems a bit oily...i'm assuming
very rot resistant?....how does it glue bend etc?
Fir?.....this and pine is what i always have used for gunwhales and
such but i don't know about logetivity and the checking thing.
Spruce....can't get it here.
since this is what i have available what do you folks recomend i
make my spars, framing and gunwhales out of? I've been snooping
aroung lumber yards and i can find some decent stuff but nothing
like CVG for the spars.
I've been convinced to spent the money on ply, i am going to go with
either MDO (still waiting on the quote or some okume i found a
decent deal on.
Thanks,
Jason Stancil