Re: MICRO KEEL PATTERN
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
fastenings without fear of having the prescribed 3/4" square chines
split. As for the"steaming" of them,it was just a couple of
towels,wrapped around the chine at the point of greatest bend,soaked
with hot water,covered in plastic and left over-night with a weight
attached to the outboard end.When I returned the following day,the
chines had settled down to their new shape:-)
build.That is,I am a firm believer in the "dry fit" whereby whatever
you are assembling all gets put together without epoxy and tested for
fit.Once the piece is"perfect",it is unscrewed,epoxy is then laid on
and the whole thing goes back together precisely since you can now
use your screw holes as guides.Another benefit is that a screw will
let you draw a work together gently without all the noise,hammer head
dents in the wood from missed strikes and general violence usually
associated with a swinging hammer.Ring nails are just as strong as
screws but do not afford the above advantages.
I suppose that one could remove all the fastenings and trust the
epoxy to do its job.At the time when I built LESTAT,my faith was
still somewhat shaky.
friends :-) but yes,that is how it was done with the keelson only
running between the two ends of the enclosed living space and not out
to the transom nor the stem(bow transom). I wanted it for the
spreading of the loads expected from the traditionally hung ballast
and to prevent the bottom plywood from flexing the wrong way and
developing a convex bottom.
some number 6 and 10 where thought best and a few number 14(yikes!)
like the ones which secure the eye straps up forward on the mast
partner.
I don't
agree with you Nels..............but I'm too lazy :-)
Perhaps if you keep asking me a few questions at a time and take
notes,over time you might be able to throw together a manual of sorts
and market it........I won't even ask for a royalty :-D
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> Where the heavier chines decided on because of the heavierHi Nels, Yes,the chines were slightly beefed up to take the
> fastenings? (Less chance of splitting etc.) The trade-ff being you
> had to steam the chine logs to get tehm into position.
fastenings without fear of having the prescribed 3/4" square chines
split. As for the"steaming" of them,it was just a couple of
towels,wrapped around the chine at the point of greatest bend,soaked
with hot water,covered in plastic and left over-night with a weight
attached to the outboard end.When I returned the following day,the
chines had settled down to their new shape:-)
>it
> Did you space the screws the same distance as you would have with
> ring nails? I am wondering if a screw holds that much better than a
> ring nail as it must be counter-sunk and then there is the risk of
> being pulled through the 3/8" plywood. Or would it be possible toIn
> remove the screws above the water line once the expoxy has cured?
> which case one could use drywall screws. (Below the waterline theyThe primary reason for my use of screws has to do with how I like to
> will be totally glassed in anyway.)
build.That is,I am a firm believer in the "dry fit" whereby whatever
you are assembling all gets put together without epoxy and tested for
fit.Once the piece is"perfect",it is unscrewed,epoxy is then laid on
and the whole thing goes back together precisely since you can now
use your screw holes as guides.Another benefit is that a screw will
let you draw a work together gently without all the noise,hammer head
dents in the wood from missed strikes and general violence usually
associated with a swinging hammer.Ring nails are just as strong as
screws but do not afford the above advantages.
I suppose that one could remove all the fastenings and trust the
epoxy to do its job.At the time when I built LESTAT,my faith was
still somewhat shaky.
>I recall it as more a 1X6 but what's a couple of inches between
> I am also wondering about installing the keelson, which is not
> mentioned in the plans. You used a 1X4 mahogany board faired into
> notches in all the bulkheads and both ends? Then you screwed the
> bottom plywood along the keelson as well?
friends :-) but yes,that is how it was done with the keelson only
running between the two ends of the enclosed living space and not out
to the transom nor the stem(bow transom). I wanted it for the
spreading of the loads expected from the traditionally hung ballast
and to prevent the bottom plywood from flexing the wrong way and
developing a convex bottom.
>it
> For the rest of the framing, you went with the standard dimensions
> seems, except for the cabin overhead beams. Did you use a smallerFor most of the boat,I used s/s Robertson drive number 8 screws with
> sized screw in the smaller frames?.
some number 6 and 10 where thought best and a few number 14(yikes!)
like the ones which secure the eye straps up forward on the mast
partner.
I don't
> believe that an additional manual would constrict a buildersnatural
> creativity. What it would do is pull together various articles thatand
> are already scattered around "out there" and perhaps avoid some
> potential pitfalls to catch people over and over again.
>
> The sharing of ideas would never be stifled so long as there are
> pirates, dreamers, half vast vikings, beer drinking proslethizers
> moaning chair mystics! (Sorry if I missed anyone:-)Deep down inside my little black rock of a soul,I whole heartedly
agree with you Nels..............but I'm too lazy :-)
Perhaps if you keep asking me a few questions at a time and take
notes,over time you might be able to throw together a manual of sorts
and market it........I won't even ask for a royalty :-D
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
>
> Cheers, Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...>
wrote:
I was thinking more of a scale drawing and not a full size - so that
a builder could transfer the figures to make changes to his own set
of plans and then scale up to full-sized from those changes. Perhaps
I can take the measurements directly off of LESTAT and see what I can
do.
After perusing the hull building article in DW mag, I have a few
questions. Mostly has to do with your well-known attraction towards
sturdy bottoms:-)
It seems that you made a good decision by going to the thicker
plywood - 3/8" instead of 1/4" and 1/2" for the bottom. You also
upsized the chine logs and used SS screws instead of ring nails to
fasten things together. I expect the added weight helped cancel out
the added bouyancy from the deadwood in the keel. It seems also that
a boat as initially stable as the MICROs have a lot of reserve
stability anyway.
Where the heavier chines decided on because of the heavier
fastenings? (Less chance of splitting etc.) The trade-ff being you
had to steam the chine logs to get tehm into position.
Did you space the screws the same distance as you would have with
ring nails? I am wondering if a screw holds that much better than a
ring nail as it must be counter-sunk and then there is the risk of it
being pulled through the 3/8" plywood. Or would it be possible to
remove the screws above the water line once the expoxy has cured? In
which case one could use drywall screws. (Below the waterline they
will be totally glassed in anyway.)
I am also wondering about installing the keelson, which is not
mentioned in the plans. You used a 1X4 mahogany board faired into
notches in all the bulkheads and both ends? Then you screwed the
bottom plywood along the keelson as well?
For the rest of the framing, you went with the standard dimensions it
seems, except for the cabin overhead beams. Did you use a smaller
sized screw in the smaller frames?. The laminated beams in the cabin
are really a beautiful addition and we will have some more questions
related to them when we get that far.
I am going out to get a copy of Bud Mac's book. I see where one could
have a manual that links it and Dynamite's books together. I don't
believe that an additional manual would constrict a builders natural
creativity. What it would do is pull together various articles that
are already scattered around "out there" and perhaps avoid some
potential pitfalls to catch people over and over again.
The sharing of ideas would never be stifled so long as there are
pirates, dreamers, half vast vikings, beer drinking proslethizers and
moaning chair mystics! (Sorry if I missed anyone:-)
Cheers, Nels
wrote:
> Juice and motivation aren't the problem Nels,it's me total lack ofHi Peter,
> skills when it comes to computers.I still get a rush whenever I
> manage to actually post a picture,imagine! Other then that,it would
> take one hellava printer to get out a huge pattern like that,no?
I was thinking more of a scale drawing and not a full size - so that
a builder could transfer the figures to make changes to his own set
of plans and then scale up to full-sized from those changes. Perhaps
I can take the measurements directly off of LESTAT and see what I can
do.
After perusing the hull building article in DW mag, I have a few
questions. Mostly has to do with your well-known attraction towards
sturdy bottoms:-)
It seems that you made a good decision by going to the thicker
plywood - 3/8" instead of 1/4" and 1/2" for the bottom. You also
upsized the chine logs and used SS screws instead of ring nails to
fasten things together. I expect the added weight helped cancel out
the added bouyancy from the deadwood in the keel. It seems also that
a boat as initially stable as the MICROs have a lot of reserve
stability anyway.
Where the heavier chines decided on because of the heavier
fastenings? (Less chance of splitting etc.) The trade-ff being you
had to steam the chine logs to get tehm into position.
Did you space the screws the same distance as you would have with
ring nails? I am wondering if a screw holds that much better than a
ring nail as it must be counter-sunk and then there is the risk of it
being pulled through the 3/8" plywood. Or would it be possible to
remove the screws above the water line once the expoxy has cured? In
which case one could use drywall screws. (Below the waterline they
will be totally glassed in anyway.)
I am also wondering about installing the keelson, which is not
mentioned in the plans. You used a 1X4 mahogany board faired into
notches in all the bulkheads and both ends? Then you screwed the
bottom plywood along the keelson as well?
For the rest of the framing, you went with the standard dimensions it
seems, except for the cabin overhead beams. Did you use a smaller
sized screw in the smaller frames?. The laminated beams in the cabin
are really a beautiful addition and we will have some more questions
related to them when we get that far.
I am going out to get a copy of Bud Mac's book. I see where one could
have a manual that links it and Dynamite's books together. I don't
believe that an additional manual would constrict a builders natural
creativity. What it would do is pull together various articles that
are already scattered around "out there" and perhaps avoid some
potential pitfalls to catch people over and over again.
The sharing of ideas would never be stifled so long as there are
pirates, dreamers, half vast vikings, beer drinking proslethizers and
moaning chair mystics! (Sorry if I missed anyone:-)
Cheers, Nels
Thanks Peter! I need all the help i can get.
Jason
Jason
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
skills when it comes to computers.I still get a rush whenever I
manage to actually post a picture,imagine! Other then that,it would
take one hellava printer to get out a huge pattern like that,no? The
thing to remember is that my keel profile is the same as that already
on the plans.The only difference is the construction of the parts
that fill that profile:-)
How did you prep them and also how did you remove them? Burn
silicate,aka waterglass.After the lead is poured,there is some
charring of the wood and it was a simple matter to just drill out the
charred wooden"bolts" for a nice clean hole.The nuts were just simply
bits of wood shaped to the same size as the nuts I was planning on
using and then glued to the end of the dowels.
epoxy fillet.
trick of "hollowing" was employed between each 2X. The holes were
easy to drill with a long...very long....sharp bit.
holiness rarely mix well and I ain't no saint. Instead,the location
and trajectories of each bolt was determined prior to the building of
the two components of deadwood and ballast.Once this was done,it was
easy to lay out the paths for the bolt runs through the deadwood and
lead to ensure they entered the hullbottom at right angles.The holes
were snug fits and the little pads with washers,located on top of the
keelson,were/are overkill and represent my irrational fears of the
whole works wrenching itself so badly as to split the keelson :-)
Rudder questions:
planed down to a rough foil shape.I was fortunate to have a piece of
PVC pipe that matched the intended diameter of the rudder shaft and
this was used during the rudder assembly to work in a perfectly
radiused hollow,on the leading edge, to recieve the s/s rudder
shaft.The tongues were welded to the shaft and both are made of
s/s.It doesn't have to be an expensive installation....I was lucky to
have a buddy weld it for me and the s/s came from a used metal
retailer.
piece of s/s channel cut to have a tongue at its aft end and a hole
drilled through the tongue to take the threaded bolt welded to the
end of the rudder shaft.
and a bit into the deadwood.If I recall correctly,no hollowing was
done to this but bedding compound was used.It is indeed intended to
be removable should it be destroyed in the mother of all groundings
or simply wear out after many years of beachings,trailerings and
other happy events.
those little bits attached to the hull are just rubber inner tube and
intended to protect both blade and hull when the rudder is put hard
over since the rotation axis of the rudder is not at right angles to
the hull bottom and thus causes the rudder tip to come in contact
with the hull bottom.Let me know if this is not what you are refering
to.
A building manual would be nice,I suppose,but that would at least
take away some of the fun/challenge of building your own boat and at
worst limit the chance for perhaps an even better way of doing
something from coming to the fore.Besides,when you are passionate
about something,solutions just seem to have a happy way of popping up
all over the place:-)
Hope this has answered your questions Nels(and others) and don't
hesitate to ask if you have more..........I love boats!
Sincerely,
Peter"the beer swilling pirate bum" Lenihan, watching another
glorious sunfilled day begin along the shores of the
St.Lawrence.......
> Seriously, would it not be perhaps simpler to post to files thea
> measurements that differ from the standard keel diagram and perhaps
> scale drawing if you are really juiced? Er I mean motivated.Juice and motivation aren't the problem Nels,it's me total lack of
skills when it comes to computers.I still get a rush whenever I
manage to actually post a picture,imagine! Other then that,it would
take one hellava printer to get out a huge pattern like that,no? The
thing to remember is that my keel profile is the same as that already
on the plans.The only difference is the construction of the parts
that fill that profile:-)
How did you prep them and also how did you remove them? Burn
> them out? Are they "real" wooden nuts threaded to the dowels?They and the entire mold were liberally covered with sodium
silicate,aka waterglass.After the lead is poured,there is some
charring of the wood and it was a simple matter to just drill out the
charred wooden"bolts" for a nice clean hole.The nuts were just simply
bits of wood shaped to the same size as the nuts I was planning on
using and then glued to the end of the dowels.
> 2. Great idea to slightly hollow the lead where it connects to theway?
> hull so that it can have a good layer of bedding compound encasing
> the SS threaded rod. Did you also install the deadwood the same
> And did you expoxy fillet around the joint?Yes to hollowing out the top edge of the deadwood also and no to an
epoxy fillet.
> 3. The deadwood is constructed of 2X mahogany laminated with epoxy?be
> And then bolted through the hull with threaded rod just like the
> keel? Did you have to drill holes to mount the deadwood? That must
> fun if you did.The deadwood 2X were laminated together with epoxy and my favorite
trick of "hollowing" was employed between each 2X. The holes were
easy to drill with a long...very long....sharp bit.
>the
> 4. Did you pre-drill the bolt holes into the hull and then slide
> keel under and pray the holes lined up? Oversize the holes and thenNo praying was ever allowed during the building since beer and
> fill them and use big washers on top?
holiness rarely mix well and I ain't no saint. Instead,the location
and trajectories of each bolt was determined prior to the building of
the two components of deadwood and ballast.Once this was done,it was
easy to lay out the paths for the bolt runs through the deadwood and
lead to ensure they entered the hullbottom at right angles.The holes
were snug fits and the little pads with washers,located on top of the
keelson,were/are overkill and represent my irrational fears of the
whole works wrenching itself so badly as to split the keelson :-)
Rudder questions:
> 1. Anything you would like to share on building the rudder? Theand
> rudder shaft and whatever those straps are called that attach the
> blade to the shaft? (Or is it called a post?) All stainless steel
> welded together? Is that an expensive installation?The rudder was built up of layers of left-over bits of MDO and then
planed down to a rough foil shape.I was fortunate to have a piece of
PVC pipe that matched the intended diameter of the rudder shaft and
this was used during the rudder assembly to work in a perfectly
radiused hollow,on the leading edge, to recieve the s/s rudder
shaft.The tongues were welded to the shaft and both are made of
s/s.It doesn't have to be an expensive installation....I was lucky to
have a buddy weld it for me and the s/s came from a used metal
retailer.
> 2. It seems you have modified the attachment at the bottom end ofthe
> post where it attaches to the keel bottom. It seems quite strong asNot too heavily modified ......but plenty strong :-) It is just a
> well. Like a "U" shaped channel over the keel edge?
piece of s/s channel cut to have a tongue at its aft end and a hole
drilled through the tongue to take the threaded bolt welded to the
end of the rudder shaft.
>The sacrificial shoe is a length of mahogany screwed into the lead
> 3. Then you have the sacrificial keel strip. How is that attached?
> And I assume it is replaceable if need be. Is it bedded in as well?
and a bit into the deadwood.If I recall correctly,no hollowing was
done to this but bedding compound was used.It is indeed intended to
be removable should it be destroyed in the mother of all groundings
or simply wear out after many years of beachings,trailerings and
other happy events.
> 4. Also there is a small strip of what looks like teflon that isIf you are refering to the top trailing edge of the rudder blade,then
> attached to the underside of the hull where the top of the rudder
> blade almost touches. Any comments on that?
those little bits attached to the hull are just rubber inner tube and
intended to protect both blade and hull when the rudder is put hard
over since the rotation axis of the rudder is not at right angles to
the hull bottom and thus causes the rudder tip to come in contact
with the hull bottom.Let me know if this is not what you are refering
to.
> I am sure you have shared all of this previously, like every 6months
> or so and then it starts over again. You really should have aI really don't mind encouraging and helping to spread the maddness:-)
> building manual so you could at least get your postage back!
>
> Get that lady to illustrate it. Marla Butler is it?
A building manual would be nice,I suppose,but that would at least
take away some of the fun/challenge of building your own boat and at
worst limit the chance for perhaps an even better way of doing
something from coming to the fore.Besides,when you are passionate
about something,solutions just seem to have a happy way of popping up
all over the place:-)
Hope this has answered your questions Nels(and others) and don't
hesitate to ask if you have more..........I love boats!
Sincerely,
Peter"the beer swilling pirate bum" Lenihan, watching another
glorious sunfilled day begin along the shores of the
St.Lawrence.......
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...>
wrote:
What a great offer... have you been in the sauce a bit earlier than
usual? If so, an even better idea would be to just simply mail us a
completed keel.
That way you won't risk losing the pattern to guys like me who have
often been humiliated worldwide in several languages and regularly
drink poison beer - you forget I live in Saskatchewan and once
belonged to Don Elliot's group:-)
Seriously, would it not be perhaps simpler to post to files the
measurements that differ from the standard keel diagram and perhaps a
scale drawing if you are really juiced? Er I mean motivated.
After reviewing the article in Duckworks I have some questions that
actually may be more in the minds of us dummies, before we decide to
make the big plunge. First I would like to emphathize that if one
plans to use MDO and epoxy on the hull, then this is certainly the
way to go to protect the higher investment in materials. Not that the
original design won't work. I mean Chevies work ofr us folks who
can't afford Beemers.
Anyhow here are a few questions:
1. Great idea installing dowels in the mold along with the wooden
nuts. How did you prep them and also how did you remove them? Burn
them out? Are they "real" wooden nuts threaded to the dowels?
2. Great idea to slightly hollow the lead where it connects to the
hull so that it can have a good layer of bedding compound encasing
the SS threaded rod. Did you also install the deadwood the same way?
And did you expoxy fillet around the joint?
3. The deadwood is constructed of 2X mahogany laminated with epoxy?
And then bolted through the hull with threaded rod just like the
keel? Did you have to drill holes to mount the deadwood? That must be
fun if you did.
4. Did you pre-drill the bolt holes into the hull and then slide the
keel under and pray the holes lined up? Oversize the holes and then
fill them and use big washers on top?
Rudder questions:
I get the impression that the rudder assembly is constructed far more
robustly than the plans call for. And I feel this is really important
as the rudder is not as easy to get at once afloat - as one hung on
the transom would be.
1. Anything you would like to share on building the rudder? The
rudder shaft and whatever those straps are called that attach the
blade to the shaft? (Or is it called a post?) All stainless steel and
welded together? Is that an expensive installation?
2. It seems you have modified the attachment at the bottom end of the
post where it attaches to the keel bottom. It seems quite strong as
well. Like a "U" shaped channel over the keel edge?
3. Then you have the sacrificial keel strip. How is that attached?
And I assume it is replaceable if need be. Is it bedded in as well?
4. Also there is a small strip of what looks like teflon that is
attached to the underside of the hull where the top of the rudder
blade almost touches. Any comments on that?
I think that about covers all my questions... for now.
I am sure you have shared all of this previously, like every 6 months
or so and then it starts over again. You really should have a
building manual so you could at least get your postage back!
Get that lady to illustrate it. Marla Butler is it?
Cheers, Nels
wrote:
> Bolgerados,MICRO,both
> For anyone who has serious intentions of building a
> the silent shy lurkers and those who have recently posted theirHi Peter,
> intentions to do so, I can make available,for free, the pattern I
> used to build my ballast keel,if that particular option is desired.
What a great offer... have you been in the sauce a bit earlier than
usual? If so, an even better idea would be to just simply mail us a
completed keel.
That way you won't risk losing the pattern to guys like me who have
often been humiliated worldwide in several languages and regularly
drink poison beer - you forget I live in Saskatchewan and once
belonged to Don Elliot's group:-)
Seriously, would it not be perhaps simpler to post to files the
measurements that differ from the standard keel diagram and perhaps a
scale drawing if you are really juiced? Er I mean motivated.
After reviewing the article in Duckworks I have some questions that
actually may be more in the minds of us dummies, before we decide to
make the big plunge. First I would like to emphathize that if one
plans to use MDO and epoxy on the hull, then this is certainly the
way to go to protect the higher investment in materials. Not that the
original design won't work. I mean Chevies work ofr us folks who
can't afford Beemers.
Anyhow here are a few questions:
1. Great idea installing dowels in the mold along with the wooden
nuts. How did you prep them and also how did you remove them? Burn
them out? Are they "real" wooden nuts threaded to the dowels?
2. Great idea to slightly hollow the lead where it connects to the
hull so that it can have a good layer of bedding compound encasing
the SS threaded rod. Did you also install the deadwood the same way?
And did you expoxy fillet around the joint?
3. The deadwood is constructed of 2X mahogany laminated with epoxy?
And then bolted through the hull with threaded rod just like the
keel? Did you have to drill holes to mount the deadwood? That must be
fun if you did.
4. Did you pre-drill the bolt holes into the hull and then slide the
keel under and pray the holes lined up? Oversize the holes and then
fill them and use big washers on top?
Rudder questions:
I get the impression that the rudder assembly is constructed far more
robustly than the plans call for. And I feel this is really important
as the rudder is not as easy to get at once afloat - as one hung on
the transom would be.
1. Anything you would like to share on building the rudder? The
rudder shaft and whatever those straps are called that attach the
blade to the shaft? (Or is it called a post?) All stainless steel and
welded together? Is that an expensive installation?
2. It seems you have modified the attachment at the bottom end of the
post where it attaches to the keel bottom. It seems quite strong as
well. Like a "U" shaped channel over the keel edge?
3. Then you have the sacrificial keel strip. How is that attached?
And I assume it is replaceable if need be. Is it bedded in as well?
4. Also there is a small strip of what looks like teflon that is
attached to the underside of the hull where the top of the rudder
blade almost touches. Any comments on that?
I think that about covers all my questions... for now.
I am sure you have shared all of this previously, like every 6 months
or so and then it starts over again. You really should have a
building manual so you could at least get your postage back!
Get that lady to illustrate it. Marla Butler is it?
Cheers, Nels
> The warm weather is quickly approaching and the sawdust willIt's already here -- we went to the beach today, and they were taking
> soon be flying again in countless"shops".Happy boatbuilding to all!!
down the snow fences, and Abbott's Frozen custard is open for the
season. So far, I've gotten the deck installed on the _Shrike_, the
last of the flotation foam attached to the underside of the deck, the
Mouseboats primed, and one coat of paint on the bottom of the _Shrike_
and the tops of the Mice. With luck, _Shrike_ will be in the water
before we move....
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
Bolgerados,
For anyone who has serious intentions of building a MICRO,both
the silent shy lurkers and those who have recently posted their
intentions to do so, I can make available,for free, the pattern I
used to build my ballast keel,if that particular option is desired.
As Nels(new owner of LESTAT) has mentioned before,Duckworks
Magazine does have available on CD a picture essay showing the entire
process.
Of course,the assembly method illustrated with the Micro plans
is perfectly suitable for the boat.However,some may be wondering
whether a method exists to beef up the keel or simply wish to do so
as a matter of practice.My pattern will take alot of the guess work
out of it for you and speed your project along handsomely!
The deal simply is this,I pay postage to your address,you get
the pattern photocopied and you pay the return postage.This works on
the honour system.Failure to return the pattern in a timely fashion
and undamaged shall result in embarrassing worldwide public
humiliation on the net in three languages by me :-( ,holy curses laid
upon your good name and family and poisoned beer delivered to your
home address in high summer!
Serious MICRO builders can contact me either here or
(preferably,since we don't want to pee-off all the non-MICRO builders
in the group :-D ) at my new e-mail address:
peterlenihan@...
The warm weather is quickly approaching and the sawdust will
soon be flying again in countless"shops".Happy boatbuilding to all!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,from along the unseasonably warm shores of the
St.Lawrence.........
For anyone who has serious intentions of building a MICRO,both
the silent shy lurkers and those who have recently posted their
intentions to do so, I can make available,for free, the pattern I
used to build my ballast keel,if that particular option is desired.
As Nels(new owner of LESTAT) has mentioned before,Duckworks
Magazine does have available on CD a picture essay showing the entire
process.
Of course,the assembly method illustrated with the Micro plans
is perfectly suitable for the boat.However,some may be wondering
whether a method exists to beef up the keel or simply wish to do so
as a matter of practice.My pattern will take alot of the guess work
out of it for you and speed your project along handsomely!
The deal simply is this,I pay postage to your address,you get
the pattern photocopied and you pay the return postage.This works on
the honour system.Failure to return the pattern in a timely fashion
and undamaged shall result in embarrassing worldwide public
humiliation on the net in three languages by me :-( ,holy curses laid
upon your good name and family and poisoned beer delivered to your
home address in high summer!
Serious MICRO builders can contact me either here or
(preferably,since we don't want to pee-off all the non-MICRO builders
in the group :-D ) at my new e-mail address:
peterlenihan@...
The warm weather is quickly approaching and the sawdust will
soon be flying again in countless"shops".Happy boatbuilding to all!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,from along the unseasonably warm shores of the
St.Lawrence.........