Re: stupid little bubbles in my epoxy!
> I painted on the gently mixed and bubble free epoxy on theThis is where it pays to noit use dispossible brushes. Or really to
> flawlessly constructed propulsion devices with a brush that sheds
> like my dog.
not dispose of brushes that you use. Get a coffee can, and trim the
handle till it fits inside keep enough thinner in there to keep the
brush soft. When you are done painting, wipe the excess epoxy off
very quickly. Dip the brush in the solvent, and paint what remains
onto something that will benefit from a little epoxy like your other
wooden boats. Keep the brush sealed int he can, and you will get a
year out of it with less cleaning time than is required to take a
diposible out of the pack. Even the cheap chip brushes will stop
sheading after the first time or to, and you won't have to pick up
fibers thereafter.
>People generally understand that rising temps will cause bubbles, so
> So i franticly plucked hairs and continued my application.
>
> I walked away quite satisfied with my superior craftsmenship and
> returned five minutes later with a celebratory beverage.....AHHHHH!
> It looked like somebody rubbed an alkaseltzer tablet all over my
> yuloh.
>
they leap to the correct enough conclusion that falling temps will
cure the problem. The best condition if you can manage it at all is
stable totaly consistant temp. Sure falling is better than nothing,
but stable is better still so i wouldn't go out of my way to super
heat on part and then cool another and so forth. It will work, but
it's more trouble. Direct sunlight can make your piece bubble, even
if through a window.
Building a Micro is a big enough job. I wouldn't set myself up to
have to spray or pass flame over every single part just to get a good
result. Just makes a toxic job all the more toxic.
Another nifty tick is to put denatured alcohol in a spray bottle and wet down the surface of fresh epoxy. It will soften the surface and allow the bubbles to move up and out of the epoxy.
This is only a trick to be played in a safe area free from ignition sources but it does work.
Jeff
This is only a trick to be played in a safe area free from ignition sources but it does work.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: soussouchew
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 7:48 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: stupid little bubbles in my epoxy!
A little trick that I use for a smooth as glass clear epoxy finish:
When the bubbles appear, wave a propane torch (the coolest
part of the outer flame) rapidly back and forth over the surface
and watch the bubbles disappear. I have heard that an electric
heat gun will work also, but mine was out on loan so I haven't
tried it. Be sure there are no volatile liquids or fumes in the area.
Also, if the torch is attached directly to a small cylinder without a
hose between, the flame will go out if you tip it horizontal. It works
much better with a hose set-up.
Vince
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>I have heard that an electricYes, this is what I used on my last strip canoe to get a really clear
>heat gun will work also, but mine was out on loan so I haven't
>tried it.
layup - works like a charm. Heating the resin can also substantially reduce
the working time; sometimes this is desired when things are very runny and
you just want it to kick; sometimes it's downright necessary when you're
working outdoors and the job has taken much longer than you thought it
would, it's gotten dark and temps are dropping rapidly, you've still got
half a vertical panel of glass to wet out and everything is running.... a
very handy tool to have at that point! It requires careful attention to
keep it moving and not scorch the epoxy or the wood, but it works quite well
once you get a feel for it.
Paul Lefebvre
Blow tourch huh? Sounds like fun!
I've had a few beers now and i went back down to look at it it.
Looks even better than before. I guess the wood has cooled enough
now or the bubbles are pushing through the epoxy.?
However, my new problem is the friggin' spider that decide to lower
himself on to my yuloh. What the hell, seems like a spider would
know better than walk around on somebody elses sticky stuff.
Jason Stancil
I've had a few beers now and i went back down to look at it it.
Looks even better than before. I guess the wood has cooled enough
now or the bubbles are pushing through the epoxy.?
However, my new problem is the friggin' spider that decide to lower
himself on to my yuloh. What the hell, seems like a spider would
know better than walk around on somebody elses sticky stuff.
Jason Stancil
I know someone that used a spray bottle of standard off-the-shelf
rubbing alcohol. That was the type of epoxy used on table
tops/counters. Thicker than normal. Sprayed it on and the bottles for
whatever reason would go away. I have never tried it but maybe a
small science project would tell. I've used a heat gun. Problem I
think was that it was too hot. Curing didn't seem right. Maybe a hair
dryer with a lower heat would work.
rubbing alcohol. That was the type of epoxy used on table
tops/counters. Thicker than normal. Sprayed it on and the bottles for
whatever reason would go away. I have never tried it but maybe a
small science project would tell. I've used a heat gun. Problem I
think was that it was too hot. Curing didn't seem right. Maybe a hair
dryer with a lower heat would work.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "soussouchew" <vachew@v...> wrote:
> A little trick that I use for a smooth as glass clear epoxy finish:
>
> When the bubbles appear, wave a propane torch (the coolest
> part of the outer flame) rapidly back and forth over the surface
> and watch the bubbles disappear. I have heard that an electric
> heat gun will work also, but mine was out on loan so I haven't
> tried it. Be sure there are no volatile liquids or fumes in the
area.
> Also, if the torch is attached directly to a small cylinder without
a
> hose between, the flame will go out if you tip it horizontal. It
works
> much better with a hose set-up.
>
> Vince
First of all, unless you are working in really cold conditions, very fast
hardener is better avoided. And Raka's is exceptionally hot, too. It simply
sets too fast to allow you to work with it.
The problem you have is outgassing. Gas (air) bubbles in the wood were
liberated due to a temperature change. As the piece you were working with
heated up (possibly even from the 'hot' epoxy) air inside the wood expanded
and bubbled out through the coating. The hot mix then gelled before the
bubbles could burst.
When you are coating something (with varnish, paint, or epoxy) it's best to
start with something warm that cools down after the coating is applied. As
the piece cools, the air inside it will contract, sucking the coating into
the voids instead of bubbling out. A longer gel time also works to your
advantage, giving more time for any bubbles to pop.
hardener is better avoided. And Raka's is exceptionally hot, too. It simply
sets too fast to allow you to work with it.
The problem you have is outgassing. Gas (air) bubbles in the wood were
liberated due to a temperature change. As the piece you were working with
heated up (possibly even from the 'hot' epoxy) air inside the wood expanded
and bubbled out through the coating. The hot mix then gelled before the
bubbles could burst.
When you are coating something (with varnish, paint, or epoxy) it's best to
start with something warm that cools down after the coating is applied. As
the piece cools, the air inside it will contract, sucking the coating into
the voids instead of bubbling out. A longer gel time also works to your
advantage, giving more time for any bubbles to pop.
----- Original Message -----
From: "smithriverranger" <jasonstancil@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 9:21 PM
Subject: [bolger] stupid little bubbles in my epoxy!
| OK.....first let me say i hate epoxy and i know little about it
| (ignorance is bliss?).
|
| Anyways, I built some oars and a yuloh for my soon to be built micro
| (waiting on the MDO i ordered to show up, thanks Lestat).
|
| To practice with the new type of epoxy i bought i figured i'd give
| my propulsion devices a good coating since i'm going to beat them up.
|
| I'm using raka very fast hardner and their regular resin.
|
| I left the oars and yuloh out in the sun for a few hours then
| brought them in my much cooler basement and waited 10 minutes for
| them to begin to cool......theory is the pores will inhale instead
| of blowing bubbles.
|
| I painted on the gently mixed and bubble free epoxy on the
| flawlessly constructed propulsion devices with a brush that sheds
| like my dog.
|
| So i franticly plucked hairs and continued my application.
|
| I walked away quite satisfied with my superior craftsmenship and
| returned five minutes later with a celebratory beverage.....AHHHHH!
| It looked like somebody rubbed an alkaseltzer tablet all over my
| yuloh.
|
| I figured, "whaever, so my micro won't look like Lestat" but an hour
| later 90% of the bubbles were gone.
|
| What gives?
|
| Do different woods bubble more or less than others? Is fast hardner
| not good for coating? Should I have let the wood cool longer?
|
| Just trying to figure this out early on......can MDO even bubble
| except on the end grain?
|
| They really turned out quite well and the diff. wood laminations
| stand out real nice through the epoxy. I have a few bubbles and i'm
| not even sure if i am going to try and sand them out before the next
| coat or hope 42 coats of urathane will camoflauge the imperfections.
|
| The epoxically challanged, Jason Stancil
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
| - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
| - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
| - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
| - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
| - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|
|
|
|
A little trick that I use for a smooth as glass clear epoxy finish:
When the bubbles appear, wave a propane torch (the coolest
part of the outer flame) rapidly back and forth over the surface
and watch the bubbles disappear. I have heard that an electric
heat gun will work also, but mine was out on loan so I haven't
tried it. Be sure there are no volatile liquids or fumes in the area.
Also, if the torch is attached directly to a small cylinder without a
hose between, the flame will go out if you tip it horizontal. It works
much better with a hose set-up.
Vince
When the bubbles appear, wave a propane torch (the coolest
part of the outer flame) rapidly back and forth over the surface
and watch the bubbles disappear. I have heard that an electric
heat gun will work also, but mine was out on loan so I haven't
tried it. Be sure there are no volatile liquids or fumes in the area.
Also, if the torch is attached directly to a small cylinder without a
hose between, the flame will go out if you tip it horizontal. It works
much better with a hose set-up.
Vince
OK.....first let me say i hate epoxy and i know little about it
(ignorance is bliss?).
Anyways, I built some oars and a yuloh for my soon to be built micro
(waiting on the MDO i ordered to show up, thanks Lestat).
To practice with the new type of epoxy i bought i figured i'd give
my propulsion devices a good coating since i'm going to beat them up.
I'm using raka very fast hardner and their regular resin.
I left the oars and yuloh out in the sun for a few hours then
brought them in my much cooler basement and waited 10 minutes for
them to begin to cool......theory is the pores will inhale instead
of blowing bubbles.
I painted on the gently mixed and bubble free epoxy on the
flawlessly constructed propulsion devices with a brush that sheds
like my dog.
So i franticly plucked hairs and continued my application.
I walked away quite satisfied with my superior craftsmenship and
returned five minutes later with a celebratory beverage.....AHHHHH!
It looked like somebody rubbed an alkaseltzer tablet all over my
yuloh.
I figured, "whaever, so my micro won't look like Lestat" but an hour
later 90% of the bubbles were gone.
What gives?
Do different woods bubble more or less than others? Is fast hardner
not good for coating? Should I have let the wood cool longer?
Just trying to figure this out early on......can MDO even bubble
except on the end grain?
They really turned out quite well and the diff. wood laminations
stand out real nice through the epoxy. I have a few bubbles and i'm
not even sure if i am going to try and sand them out before the next
coat or hope 42 coats of urathane will camoflauge the imperfections.
The epoxically challanged, Jason Stancil
(ignorance is bliss?).
Anyways, I built some oars and a yuloh for my soon to be built micro
(waiting on the MDO i ordered to show up, thanks Lestat).
To practice with the new type of epoxy i bought i figured i'd give
my propulsion devices a good coating since i'm going to beat them up.
I'm using raka very fast hardner and their regular resin.
I left the oars and yuloh out in the sun for a few hours then
brought them in my much cooler basement and waited 10 minutes for
them to begin to cool......theory is the pores will inhale instead
of blowing bubbles.
I painted on the gently mixed and bubble free epoxy on the
flawlessly constructed propulsion devices with a brush that sheds
like my dog.
So i franticly plucked hairs and continued my application.
I walked away quite satisfied with my superior craftsmenship and
returned five minutes later with a celebratory beverage.....AHHHHH!
It looked like somebody rubbed an alkaseltzer tablet all over my
yuloh.
I figured, "whaever, so my micro won't look like Lestat" but an hour
later 90% of the bubbles were gone.
What gives?
Do different woods bubble more or less than others? Is fast hardner
not good for coating? Should I have let the wood cool longer?
Just trying to figure this out early on......can MDO even bubble
except on the end grain?
They really turned out quite well and the diff. wood laminations
stand out real nice through the epoxy. I have a few bubbles and i'm
not even sure if i am going to try and sand them out before the next
coat or hope 42 coats of urathane will camoflauge the imperfections.
The epoxically challanged, Jason Stancil