Re: micro modifications
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "smithriverranger" <jasonstancil@h...>
My original plan was to build a MICRO and I have the plans. Then
while enjoying it I had plans for a larger part-time liveaboard like
AS29 or even FIJI. Then LESTAT came along and when I saw the size I
realized that a LONG MICRO with a Glass house could be used as a part-
time liveaboard and still be trailerable. That extra 4 feet amidships
means that one can still have a pilothouse and a small cockpit, and a
double bed. Yet you still have the basic simplicity that the MICRO
series excel at in my view. Cost comparison and complexity, between a
LM and AS29 or FIJI are not even in the same reality. Then if I
decide I don't want to live aboard as much as I thought, I don't have
a huge investment to take a potential hit on.
LONG MICRO is still a significant step up from MICRO, especially if
you have a small tow vehicle. I am fortunate to have a full sized
Chevy van with a turbo diesel that I use as a work van.
Cheers, Nels
> I notice you gravitate towards the LM, I love it but I believe forcould'nt
> me it's a bit more boat than i really need, my garage doors
> be shut and my subaru would not be happy towing that beautifulbeast
> of a bolger box. Then of course there are the added costs andHi Jason,
> complexities of the construction, trailer and rigging that have
> shyed me away from the LM.
My original plan was to build a MICRO and I have the plans. Then
while enjoying it I had plans for a larger part-time liveaboard like
AS29 or even FIJI. Then LESTAT came along and when I saw the size I
realized that a LONG MICRO with a Glass house could be used as a part-
time liveaboard and still be trailerable. That extra 4 feet amidships
means that one can still have a pilothouse and a small cockpit, and a
double bed. Yet you still have the basic simplicity that the MICRO
series excel at in my view. Cost comparison and complexity, between a
LM and AS29 or FIJI are not even in the same reality. Then if I
decide I don't want to live aboard as much as I thought, I don't have
a huge investment to take a potential hit on.
LONG MICRO is still a significant step up from MICRO, especially if
you have a small tow vehicle. I am fortunate to have a full sized
Chevy van with a turbo diesel that I use as a work van.
Cheers, Nels
When I asked Phil Bolger about his recommended
motor size for a Micro Navigator he wrote
that a 4 hp four stroke would be good.
motor size for a Micro Navigator he wrote
that a 4 hp four stroke would be good.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "smithriverranger" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
before i get
You can never be "too involved" with boatbuilding!Think about
it,you will be taking essentially a pile of wood and creating with
your very own hands a working thing of beauty which will carry you
and yours over magical waters to great
adventures.Nevertheless,however small and private these adventures
may in fact be you must not let this special time of building pass
you by un-appreciated!You will be creating in a world and time when
most things are produced,en masse, for us in some other part of the
world. You will be exposed to and challenged by parts of yourself
perhaps long forgotten or newly discovered! It will transform you in
many happy ways! Celebrate it! Enjoy it! But leave the moaning chair
for once the building is well under way :-)
for it,otherwise it is not essential to the design.Your engine of
choice may prove to be too small when you might need it the most.A 5
would be a better choice if you can afford it.
only one guilty of this!). The end-plate on the rudder can't hurt,I
suppose,but you'll be left to your own devices for figuring out how
to install one and on such a small boat with low speed potential,it
is difficult to imagine any improvement being measurable over the
basic rudder as designed.Again,your boat,your call.
and will not spit water,ever,if you install a screen on the outside.
surprisingly well once you get over the habit of always sitting with
your feet lower then your buttocks.Beyond that,it does enclose a
cavernous hold,is totally self draining, and will,in the ultimate
knockdown scenario,provide a ton(literally) of reserve bouyancy if
the hatch is secured.
The pilot house thing seems like
are made, so that they all come together to work as one integrated
whole.Have you drawn up plans of how you wish to do your pilot house
and how this will effect the other structures?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
wrote:
before i get
> too invovled.Jason,
You can never be "too involved" with boatbuilding!Think about
it,you will be taking essentially a pile of wood and creating with
your very own hands a working thing of beauty which will carry you
and yours over magical waters to great
adventures.Nevertheless,however small and private these adventures
may in fact be you must not let this special time of building pass
you by un-appreciated!You will be creating in a world and time when
most things are produced,en masse, for us in some other part of the
world. You will be exposed to and challenged by parts of yourself
perhaps long forgotten or newly discovered! It will transform you in
many happy ways! Celebrate it! Enjoy it! But leave the moaning chair
for once the building is well under way :-)
>The Transom arch is a nice touch.If you are up to the extra work go
> Transom- i want to put an arch the same radius as the cuddy deck
> over the transom I plan on using a 2hp
> honda
for it,otherwise it is not essential to the design.Your engine of
choice may prove to be too small when you might need it the most.A 5
would be a better choice if you can afford it.
>with
> Rudder- going to beef it up and add a ss shoe down the whole bottom
> for protection. I'm also thinking of doing it like a long micro
> the "wings". Draw backs?The full length s/s shoe is really over kill( and I thought I was the
only one guilty of this!). The end-plate on the rudder can't hurt,I
suppose,but you'll be left to your own devices for figuring out how
to install one and on such a small boat with low speed potential,it
is difficult to imagine any improvement being measurable over the
basic rudder as designed.Again,your boat,your call.
>the
> Bow Vent- I'm under impression that bolger did away with this on
> long micro, is this the case?.....I'd like to keep the bunks as dryBow vents work fine,keep air flowing when all else is battened down
> as possible and have considered a dorade box if it's a bit stuffy
> without the bow vent?
and will not spit water,ever,if you install a screen on the outside.
>It is a tradional cockpit setup from another era and works
> Cockpit- Bolger designed this for simplicity and i believe there is
> room for improvement at the cost of building ease. Thinking of a
> cockpit coaming(sp?)and maybe lowering the seats a few inches.....
surprisingly well once you get over the habit of always sitting with
your feet lower then your buttocks.Beyond that,it does enclose a
cavernous hold,is totally self draining, and will,in the ultimate
knockdown scenario,provide a ton(literally) of reserve bouyancy if
the hatch is secured.
The pilot house thing seems like
> a big deal but it's actually only a cosmetic change of what bolgerSounds like a fun challenge.Hope you track all your changes,as they
> has already designed.
are made, so that they all come together to work as one integrated
whole.Have you drawn up plans of how you wish to do your pilot house
and how this will effect the other structures?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Jason,
Bow steps / freeing ports:
Re-boarding a Micro from in the water after a swim (intentional or
otherwise) , you'll find the topsides tower over you. The bow transom ports
act as handholds. A loop of rope attached inside the bow acts as a foothold
to allow you climb out of the water. When not in use, the rope loop is
simply tucked out of the way. Think of it as a basic safety feature. We
never board after a swim any other way. (Long Micro has a tabernacle'd
mainmast - the bow is _all_ hole :)
The ability to stand at water level outside the boat has been useful in
other ways, too; when boarding from a dinghy, when picking up a mooring on a
buoy, &c.
Splash from the forward vent / window has not been an issue for us. Crashing
through short chop with the bow throwing spray ten feet or so into the air
there has been no discernable ingress of moisture. Obviously, any hole in a
boat can allow water in under some conditions. If it became an issue,
dropping a spray cap over the vent would deal with it.
2HP will only deal with flat water / no current / low wind conditions.
An arched transom cap is easy to construct. You can fabricate the transom
with a curved top and then laminate the curved cap onto the boat. We have
not found it necessary to board the boat over the stern from the water and
the curved top is never in the way at a dock. Water runs off it nicely. If
you are planning for future expansion, I'd recommend giong and measuring the
motor you are considering - I've heard of at least one builder who relied on
the motor manufacturers published dimensions and then found his new motor
would not fit.
The Chinese Gaff main pros: Gives substantially more overall sail area,
which Micro can use if you do much light air sailing. From 119 sq ft to 176
sq ft on the main. The reefing is quick and stress free, encouraging its
use. The mast is shorter. See "103 sailing rigs" for a full discussion.
The Chinese Gaff main cons: Lots more cordage and blocks. Slightly slower to
rig and take down (although much better than I had expected). More rigging
bits to make or buy.
With the high peaked gaff when rigged both sails look roughly triangular -
more so than on the sailplan, IMO. The price of the extra plans sheet may be
$35, but the figure $50 is what I recall.
cheers
Derek
Bow steps / freeing ports:
Re-boarding a Micro from in the water after a swim (intentional or
otherwise) , you'll find the topsides tower over you. The bow transom ports
act as handholds. A loop of rope attached inside the bow acts as a foothold
to allow you climb out of the water. When not in use, the rope loop is
simply tucked out of the way. Think of it as a basic safety feature. We
never board after a swim any other way. (Long Micro has a tabernacle'd
mainmast - the bow is _all_ hole :)
The ability to stand at water level outside the boat has been useful in
other ways, too; when boarding from a dinghy, when picking up a mooring on a
buoy, &c.
Splash from the forward vent / window has not been an issue for us. Crashing
through short chop with the bow throwing spray ten feet or so into the air
there has been no discernable ingress of moisture. Obviously, any hole in a
boat can allow water in under some conditions. If it became an issue,
dropping a spray cap over the vent would deal with it.
2HP will only deal with flat water / no current / low wind conditions.
An arched transom cap is easy to construct. You can fabricate the transom
with a curved top and then laminate the curved cap onto the boat. We have
not found it necessary to board the boat over the stern from the water and
the curved top is never in the way at a dock. Water runs off it nicely. If
you are planning for future expansion, I'd recommend giong and measuring the
motor you are considering - I've heard of at least one builder who relied on
the motor manufacturers published dimensions and then found his new motor
would not fit.
The Chinese Gaff main pros: Gives substantially more overall sail area,
which Micro can use if you do much light air sailing. From 119 sq ft to 176
sq ft on the main. The reefing is quick and stress free, encouraging its
use. The mast is shorter. See "103 sailing rigs" for a full discussion.
The Chinese Gaff main cons: Lots more cordage and blocks. Slightly slower to
rig and take down (although much better than I had expected). More rigging
bits to make or buy.
With the high peaked gaff when rigged both sails look roughly triangular -
more so than on the sailplan, IMO. The price of the extra plans sheet may be
$35, but the figure $50 is what I recall.
cheers
Derek
One rule of thumb is one hp per 400 lbs, which sets you up nicely for
headwinds, deep draft, loads of friends, being in too much hurry,
etc. Of course, a lot depends on hull design, draft, windage, and
how fast you want to go. I doubt 2 hp will get to hull speed in a
navigator in a stiff headwind, but you'll probably go forward.
Reuell Parker routinely specs much less than 1 hp/400 lb in his
sharpie designs, but they drive very easily.
Note also that your 2 hp does not have f-n-r, which is very, very
nice to have. I love my honda 2 hp, but love my 5 hp more.
headwinds, deep draft, loads of friends, being in too much hurry,
etc. Of course, a lot depends on hull design, draft, windage, and
how fast you want to go. I doubt 2 hp will get to hull speed in a
navigator in a stiff headwind, but you'll probably go forward.
Reuell Parker routinely specs much less than 1 hp/400 lb in his
sharpie designs, but they drive very easily.
Note also that your 2 hp does not have f-n-r, which is very, very
nice to have. I love my honda 2 hp, but love my 5 hp more.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "strika62" <strika62@y...> wrote:
> I think 2 HP is a little small. I have a 4 HP and wish I had 6...
>
> Strika
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "smithriverranger"
<jasonstancil@h...>
> wrote:
> > I need to order the navigator companion plans as this may save me
> > quite a bit of headache. I don't have a fax so i've been
> increadibly
> > lazy about contacting PB&F.
> >
> > As far as the navigator rig goes i'd like to have the main and
> > mizzen match. I think it would be rather simple to design a well
> > balanced chinese gaff mizzen but not so sure i could work out a
> > suitable arrangement for the sheetlets....any suggestions?
> >
> > I've seen one micro in person (unrigged) and was impressed with
the
> > size and design but i want the pilot house for safety and living
> > space aboard. My line of work allows me to take months off at a
> time
> > for whatever low budget adventure i can sceme and to date has
> > involved costal cruising, cycling cross country and thru hiking
the
> > appalachian trail. I'm sure there will be days i don't like the
> > pilothouse but i know i'll end up needing it and would rather do
it
> > right the first time than having to put a saw to my carefully
> > completed micro at a later date.
> >
> > I notice you gravitate towards the LM, I love it but I believe
for
> > me it's a bit more boat than i really need, my garage doors
> could'nt
> > be shut and my subaru would not be happy towing that beautiful
> beast
> > of a bolger box. Then of course there are the added costs and
> > complexities of the construction, trailer and rigging that have
> > shyed me away from the LM.
> >
> > Glad to hear your thoughts on some of those modifications
> expecially
> > with the bow vent and bow steps.
> >
> > About the transom......do you believe 2hp is insufficient to push
> > the micro with high windage (pilothouse) against a stiff
headwind?
> > Was trying to stick with the 2hp honda because i've got one with
> > only about a dozen hours on it. Doh! much more expensive for the
> 5hp
> > or 9.9
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jason
I think 2 HP is a little small. I have a 4 HP and wish I had 6...
Strika
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "smithriverranger" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
Strika
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "smithriverranger" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> I need to order the navigator companion plans as this may save meincreadibly
> quite a bit of headache. I don't have a fax so i've been
> lazy about contacting PB&F.time
>
> As far as the navigator rig goes i'd like to have the main and
> mizzen match. I think it would be rather simple to design a well
> balanced chinese gaff mizzen but not so sure i could work out a
> suitable arrangement for the sheetlets....any suggestions?
>
> I've seen one micro in person (unrigged) and was impressed with the
> size and design but i want the pilot house for safety and living
> space aboard. My line of work allows me to take months off at a
> for whatever low budget adventure i can sceme and to date hascould'nt
> involved costal cruising, cycling cross country and thru hiking the
> appalachian trail. I'm sure there will be days i don't like the
> pilothouse but i know i'll end up needing it and would rather do it
> right the first time than having to put a saw to my carefully
> completed micro at a later date.
>
> I notice you gravitate towards the LM, I love it but I believe for
> me it's a bit more boat than i really need, my garage doors
> be shut and my subaru would not be happy towing that beautifulbeast
> of a bolger box. Then of course there are the added costs andexpecially
> complexities of the construction, trailer and rigging that have
> shyed me away from the LM.
>
> Glad to hear your thoughts on some of those modifications
> with the bow vent and bow steps.5hp
>
> About the transom......do you believe 2hp is insufficient to push
> the micro with high windage (pilothouse) against a stiff headwind?
> Was trying to stick with the 2hp honda because i've got one with
> only about a dozen hours on it. Doh! much more expensive for the
> or 9.9
>
> Thanks,
> Jason
--- smithriverranger wrote:
the motor well at the stern.
[or at least, don't install it
until late in the building process.]
I have climbed in and out of the
boat 1,000 times using the motor
mount board on the transom as a step,
a cross piece would have made that
impossible. The cross bar isn't
needed for structural reasons IMO.
cabin ventilation that a bow vent
allows keeps the inside of the
cabin dry. Omitting it seems
like asking for more dampness
not less. I get a surprising
amount of condensation over
night that evaporates quickly
each morning, with the help
of that cross-ventilation.
as boarding steps, and for
me at least, offsetting
the steps works better to
match my right and left feet.
tested sprit rigfor a regular Micro.
The *much* more complex Chinese
Gaff is due to the need to reef
and operate the sails from inside
the cabin with the Navigator.
neighbor's wife told me it looked 'cute'!
> TransomConsider omiting the cross bar above
the motor well at the stern.
[or at least, don't install it
until late in the building process.]
I have climbed in and out of the
boat 1,000 times using the motor
mount board on the transom as a step,
a cross piece would have made that
impossible. The cross bar isn't
needed for structural reasons IMO.
> Bow VentI already believe that the through
cabin ventilation that a bow vent
allows keeps the inside of the
cabin dry. Omitting it seems
like asking for more dampness
not less. I get a surprising
amount of condensation over
night that evaporates quickly
each morning, with the help
of that cross-ventilation.
> Offset bow slots-The bow transom holes serve
as boarding steps, and for
me at least, offsetting
the steps works better to
match my right and left feet.
> Rig- Sprit or navigator chinese gaff?I would stick with the tried and
> I'd go withm the chinese gaff
tested sprit rigfor a regular Micro.
The *much* more complex Chinese
Gaff is due to the need to reef
and operate the sails from inside
the cabin with the Navigator.
> Navigator but i find bolger's design UGLY,<grin> I won't take that personally. My
neighbor's wife told me it looked 'cute'!
Jason,
I built my micro three years ago. Here are my thoughts:
a ventilation and light source. I wouldn't be without it...
Keep us posted...
Strika
I built my micro three years ago. Here are my thoughts:
>It
> Transom- i want to put an arch the same radius as the cuddy deck
> over the transom, strickly too please my eye. I plan on using a 2hp
> honda and there should be plenty of clearance for tilting the
> outboard. I've seen pictures of quite a few micros with this mod.
> may make it a little tougher to exit the boat via the stern but i'mStrika says: OK, but it sounds like extra work...
> ok with that. Any problems i'm not taking into account.
>Strika says: Great! I wish I had done that as well...
> Rudder- going to beef it up and add a ss shoe down the whole bottom
> for protection.
> Bow Vent- I'm under impression that bolger did away with this onthe
> long micro, is this the case?.....I'd like to keep the bunks as dryStrika says: The bow event on my micro has proved invaluable as both
> as possible and have considered a dorade box if it's a bit stuffy
> without the bow vent?
a ventilation and light source. I wouldn't be without it...
Keep us posted...
Strika
I need to order the navigator companion plans as this may save me
quite a bit of headache. I don't have a fax so i've been increadibly
lazy about contacting PB&F.
As far as the navigator rig goes i'd like to have the main and
mizzen match. I think it would be rather simple to design a well
balanced chinese gaff mizzen but not so sure i could work out a
suitable arrangement for the sheetlets....any suggestions?
I've seen one micro in person (unrigged) and was impressed with the
size and design but i want the pilot house for safety and living
space aboard. My line of work allows me to take months off at a time
for whatever low budget adventure i can sceme and to date has
involved costal cruising, cycling cross country and thru hiking the
appalachian trail. I'm sure there will be days i don't like the
pilothouse but i know i'll end up needing it and would rather do it
right the first time than having to put a saw to my carefully
completed micro at a later date.
I notice you gravitate towards the LM, I love it but I believe for
me it's a bit more boat than i really need, my garage doors could'nt
be shut and my subaru would not be happy towing that beautiful beast
of a bolger box. Then of course there are the added costs and
complexities of the construction, trailer and rigging that have
shyed me away from the LM.
Glad to hear your thoughts on some of those modifications expecially
with the bow vent and bow steps.
About the transom......do you believe 2hp is insufficient to push
the micro with high windage (pilothouse) against a stiff headwind?
Was trying to stick with the 2hp honda because i've got one with
only about a dozen hours on it. Doh! much more expensive for the 5hp
or 9.9
Thanks,
Jason
quite a bit of headache. I don't have a fax so i've been increadibly
lazy about contacting PB&F.
As far as the navigator rig goes i'd like to have the main and
mizzen match. I think it would be rather simple to design a well
balanced chinese gaff mizzen but not so sure i could work out a
suitable arrangement for the sheetlets....any suggestions?
I've seen one micro in person (unrigged) and was impressed with the
size and design but i want the pilot house for safety and living
space aboard. My line of work allows me to take months off at a time
for whatever low budget adventure i can sceme and to date has
involved costal cruising, cycling cross country and thru hiking the
appalachian trail. I'm sure there will be days i don't like the
pilothouse but i know i'll end up needing it and would rather do it
right the first time than having to put a saw to my carefully
completed micro at a later date.
I notice you gravitate towards the LM, I love it but I believe for
me it's a bit more boat than i really need, my garage doors could'nt
be shut and my subaru would not be happy towing that beautiful beast
of a bolger box. Then of course there are the added costs and
complexities of the construction, trailer and rigging that have
shyed me away from the LM.
Glad to hear your thoughts on some of those modifications expecially
with the bow vent and bow steps.
About the transom......do you believe 2hp is insufficient to push
the micro with high windage (pilothouse) against a stiff headwind?
Was trying to stick with the 2hp honda because i've got one with
only about a dozen hours on it. Doh! much more expensive for the 5hp
or 9.9
Thanks,
Jason
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "smithriverranger" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
I am going to respond to your post in a random fashion and it is only
my opinion based on my current knowledge.
I would build entirely to plan and any changes you mention can be
added afterwards based on seeing how the original design works "as
is". The only changes I would make are those suggested by Peter to
get a stronger hull.
Transom arch is a waste of time and energy and makes getting INTO the
boat much more difficult. Also you may want to upgrade to a larger
motor sometime. LESTAT has been used with a 25 on her:-)
The LONG MICRO has two "whiley windows" in the forward bulkhead I
believe. There are illustrations of that on site here. As for the bow
steps on the MICRO, I would only have the top one if that - and have
drain holes on the forward sides like LONG MICRO. Water has been
known to come in the bow openings and splash in through the vent on
the f'wd bulkhead. These bow openings ae useless as boarding steps,
unless you are a monkey.
The endplate on the rudder actually makes it a bit more exposed to
damage and catching onto something. But I think it is useful.
A SS or even iron shoe is a waste as well. Better to use a
sacrificial wooden shoe and a SS bottom bearing/support for the
rudder as Peter describes.
I would not lower the seats, although a coaming would be of interest
if I was adding a pilot house. It helps to offset the height of the
house. I would not install a self-draining footwell until after
trying the boat as designed. The size of the hold is something
to "behold". Your dog and two kids could sleep in it:-)
The sailing rig as designed is about perfect. For extra shelter I
would use a folding dodger over the companionway. Plans and kits
available from sailrite. This would be more versatile than a hard
dodger and can also be supplemented by a sun awning/bimini when in
the Exumas:-)
I would also make an effort to view a finished MICRO before making
any big design changes. One cannot visualize the amount of room it
has until you actually climb aboard one. To imagine a LONG MICRO with
an added house - well we are talking liveaboard here, at a fraction
of the cost of anything comparable.
However if you insist you need a dodger or pilothouse then you might
want to consider the Chinese lug right at the start, and order the
additional plan sheet for reference.
Cheers, Nels
wrote:
> I'm days away from turning on my saw to begin my micro and have aHi Jason,
> question about a few modifications i need to sort out before i get
> too invovled.
I am going to respond to your post in a random fashion and it is only
my opinion based on my current knowledge.
I would build entirely to plan and any changes you mention can be
added afterwards based on seeing how the original design works "as
is". The only changes I would make are those suggested by Peter to
get a stronger hull.
Transom arch is a waste of time and energy and makes getting INTO the
boat much more difficult. Also you may want to upgrade to a larger
motor sometime. LESTAT has been used with a 25 on her:-)
The LONG MICRO has two "whiley windows" in the forward bulkhead I
believe. There are illustrations of that on site here. As for the bow
steps on the MICRO, I would only have the top one if that - and have
drain holes on the forward sides like LONG MICRO. Water has been
known to come in the bow openings and splash in through the vent on
the f'wd bulkhead. These bow openings ae useless as boarding steps,
unless you are a monkey.
The endplate on the rudder actually makes it a bit more exposed to
damage and catching onto something. But I think it is useful.
A SS or even iron shoe is a waste as well. Better to use a
sacrificial wooden shoe and a SS bottom bearing/support for the
rudder as Peter describes.
I would not lower the seats, although a coaming would be of interest
if I was adding a pilot house. It helps to offset the height of the
house. I would not install a self-draining footwell until after
trying the boat as designed. The size of the hold is something
to "behold". Your dog and two kids could sleep in it:-)
The sailing rig as designed is about perfect. For extra shelter I
would use a folding dodger over the companionway. Plans and kits
available from sailrite. This would be more versatile than a hard
dodger and can also be supplemented by a sun awning/bimini when in
the Exumas:-)
I would also make an effort to view a finished MICRO before making
any big design changes. One cannot visualize the amount of room it
has until you actually climb aboard one. To imagine a LONG MICRO with
an added house - well we are talking liveaboard here, at a fraction
of the cost of anything comparable.
However if you insist you need a dodger or pilothouse then you might
want to consider the Chinese lug right at the start, and order the
additional plan sheet for reference.
Cheers, Nels
I'm days away from turning on my saw to begin my micro and have a
question about a few modifications i need to sort out before i get
too invovled.
Transom- i want to put an arch the same radius as the cuddy deck
over the transom, strickly too please my eye. I plan on using a 2hp
honda and there should be plenty of clearance for tilting the
outboard. I've seen pictures of quite a few micros with this mod. It
may make it a little tougher to exit the boat via the stern but i'm
ok with that. Any problems i'm not taking into account.
Rudder- going to beef it up and add a ss shoe down the whole bottom
for protection. I'm also thinking of doing it like a long micro with
the "wings". Draw backs?
Bow Vent- I'm under impression that bolger did away with this on the
long micro, is this the case?.....I'd like to keep the bunks as dry
as possible and have considered a dorade box if it's a bit stuffy
without the bow vent?
Offset bow slots- I've heard people have done this but not sure
why....i could be convinced, what is the case for offsetting?
Rig- Sprit or navigator chinese gaff? I'd go with the chinese gaff
if the mizzen matched the main alas it doesn't and it to my eye it
looks a bit funny with 2 diff. rigs.
Seems like every large bolger boat has been converted to a junk (my
favorite rig) has anyone ever done this on a micro or know how to go
about it? Not sure about the center of effort moving and all of the
technical aspects so unless somebody tutors me i'll have hold off on
the cat ketch junk conversion. Pros and Cons of sprit vs. navigator
rig.
Cockpit- Bolger designed this for simplicity and i believe there is
room for improvement at the cost of building ease. Thinking of a
cockpit coaming(sp?)and maybe lowering the seats a few inches.....
Lowering the seats why? Because of my big change....I want to build
a navigator but i find bolger's design UGLY, I'm sure it functions
beautifully but i can't stomach it. So i'm going to fit a chabacco
style pilot house like on richard spelling's boat.
That's it. If anyone has some ideas that worked well for them i'd
love to hear about it. I know some folks are going to jump on me
about changing a perfectly good design, but most of the mods bolger
either made himself to later boats he dsigned (read long micro)or
ok'd them for other micro builders. The pilot house thing seems like
a big deal but it's actually only a cosmetic change of what bolger
has already designed.
Let's hear it,
Jason Stancil
question about a few modifications i need to sort out before i get
too invovled.
Transom- i want to put an arch the same radius as the cuddy deck
over the transom, strickly too please my eye. I plan on using a 2hp
honda and there should be plenty of clearance for tilting the
outboard. I've seen pictures of quite a few micros with this mod. It
may make it a little tougher to exit the boat via the stern but i'm
ok with that. Any problems i'm not taking into account.
Rudder- going to beef it up and add a ss shoe down the whole bottom
for protection. I'm also thinking of doing it like a long micro with
the "wings". Draw backs?
Bow Vent- I'm under impression that bolger did away with this on the
long micro, is this the case?.....I'd like to keep the bunks as dry
as possible and have considered a dorade box if it's a bit stuffy
without the bow vent?
Offset bow slots- I've heard people have done this but not sure
why....i could be convinced, what is the case for offsetting?
Rig- Sprit or navigator chinese gaff? I'd go with the chinese gaff
if the mizzen matched the main alas it doesn't and it to my eye it
looks a bit funny with 2 diff. rigs.
Seems like every large bolger boat has been converted to a junk (my
favorite rig) has anyone ever done this on a micro or know how to go
about it? Not sure about the center of effort moving and all of the
technical aspects so unless somebody tutors me i'll have hold off on
the cat ketch junk conversion. Pros and Cons of sprit vs. navigator
rig.
Cockpit- Bolger designed this for simplicity and i believe there is
room for improvement at the cost of building ease. Thinking of a
cockpit coaming(sp?)and maybe lowering the seats a few inches.....
Lowering the seats why? Because of my big change....I want to build
a navigator but i find bolger's design UGLY, I'm sure it functions
beautifully but i can't stomach it. So i'm going to fit a chabacco
style pilot house like on richard spelling's boat.
That's it. If anyone has some ideas that worked well for them i'd
love to hear about it. I know some folks are going to jump on me
about changing a perfectly good design, but most of the mods bolger
either made himself to later boats he dsigned (read long micro)or
ok'd them for other micro builders. The pilot house thing seems like
a big deal but it's actually only a cosmetic change of what bolger
has already designed.
Let's hear it,
Jason Stancil