Re: Concrete Micro keel.
I hope you destroyed the pot afterwards! I had to destroy a frying pan
used for lead after a long argument with a housemate about using it
again for food. You now see in me, possibly, effects of micro
contamination of salads with Penta Dip, tho I think we got rid of that
bowl before too long.
used for lead after a long argument with a housemate about using it
again for food. You now see in me, possibly, effects of micro
contamination of salads with Penta Dip, tho I think we got rid of that
bowl before too long.
>Bruce Hector wrote:
>Lead melts at a surprisingly low temperature. I used to cast lead
>bullets by melting in on the stove in my ex-wife's favorite soup pot.
>
>As Peter says, follow the safety rules, and you won't have any problem,
>
>Bruce Hector
>Coming from the guy who swapped houseboat use and bought a used Micro
>to get his two Micro keels.
>
It's very possible to cast iron in your back yard. When I was in college
I had a housemate who used to cast iron in the back alley. It would be
slow, as you'd probably have to do it in many batches unless you had a
very large furnace. Also, if you did it like he did it, you'd want to
move fast with the crucible (or whatever it's called) as steel tongs
soften at those temps and he was only wearing sneakers on his feet. But
why cast iron when you can cast lead?
He would also cast bronze (from old, fancy downspouts) with a lost foam
process in oily sand. Lots of nice smoke. A good way to make cleats and
other fittings, probabl..
Lincoln Ross
melter of lead for toilet flanges and scuba weights
I had a housemate who used to cast iron in the back alley. It would be
slow, as you'd probably have to do it in many batches unless you had a
very large furnace. Also, if you did it like he did it, you'd want to
move fast with the crucible (or whatever it's called) as steel tongs
soften at those temps and he was only wearing sneakers on his feet. But
why cast iron when you can cast lead?
He would also cast bronze (from old, fancy downspouts) with a lost foam
process in oily sand. Lots of nice smoke. A good way to make cleats and
other fittings, probabl..
Lincoln Ross
melter of lead for toilet flanges and scuba weights
>pvanderwaart wrote:
>
>
>I'm not going to look up the exact number, but I think you will find
>that gold and uranium will have much higher melting points than lead.
>It seems to me that the high melting point is why it's not really
>possibly to cast an iron keel in your backyard.
>
>snip
>Peter
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@y...>
wrote:
not harbour any unorthadox or bizarre thoughts or ideas. One of the
first symptoms of lead poisoning is a tendency to go beserk with
untterly unrealistic schemes of impossible magnitude.
Bruce seems pretty normal so far thank god:-)
Cheers, Nels
wrote:
> There can be a strange sort of alchemy here. If you melt lead inyour
> wife's favorite soup pot, there's a fair chance it will turn intoI would think there is nothing to worry about, so long as one does
> your ex-wife's favorite soup pot.
>
> PHV
not harbour any unorthadox or bizarre thoughts or ideas. One of the
first symptoms of lead poisoning is a tendency to go beserk with
untterly unrealistic schemes of impossible magnitude.
Bruce seems pretty normal so far thank god:-)
Cheers, Nels
> I used to cast leadThere can be a strange sort of alchemy here. If you melt lead in your
> bullets by melting in on the stove in my ex-wife's
> favorite soup pot.
wife's favorite soup pot, there's a fair chance it will turn into
your ex-wife's favorite soup pot.
PHV
My choice is tungsten. Very heavy (s.g. 19 or so) and, I think, quite
strong. Just hang outside of bars that have dart boards and roll the
intoxicated players. (darts are made of it to make them skinnier)
strong. Just hang outside of bars that have dart boards and roll the
intoxicated players. (darts are made of it to make them skinnier)
>bruce@...wrote: --- "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
>
>>> depleted uranium
>>
>>
>
>Bolger wrote, in Folding Schooner I think,
>that gold would make good ballast too.
>
Yes, and you can make close acquaintance with our dedicated men in the
department of Homeland Security when you enter a major port with this
keel, depending on just how depleted it is. Speaking of depleted uranium
keels, does anyone remember or know what happened after the race to the
256 foot singlehanded schooner (4 masts, I think) which I think was
called Club Med, built for the OSTAR?
department of Homeland Security when you enter a major port with this
keel, depending on just how depleted it is. Speaking of depleted uranium
keels, does anyone remember or know what happened after the race to the
256 foot singlehanded schooner (4 masts, I think) which I think was
called Club Med, built for the OSTAR?
>David Romasco wrote:snip
>I think using depleted
>uranium would do more to preserve the keel shape and improve performance, as
>it's almost exactly twice the density of normal lead.
>
Lead melts at a surprisingly low temperature. I used to cast lead
bullets by melting in on the stove in my ex-wife's favorite soup pot.
As Peter says, follow the safety rules, and you won't have any problem,
Bruce Hector
Coming from the guy who swapped houseboat use and bought a used Micro
to get his two Micro keels.
bullets by melting in on the stove in my ex-wife's favorite soup pot.
As Peter says, follow the safety rules, and you won't have any problem,
Bruce Hector
Coming from the guy who swapped houseboat use and bought a used Micro
to get his two Micro keels.
> I think gold is probably cheaper than depleted uranium,I'm not going to look up the exact number, but I think you will find
> but doesn't weigh as much either.
that gold and uranium will have much higher melting points than lead.
It seems to me that the high melting point is why it's not really
possibly to cast an iron keel in your backyard.
The easiest way to get a Micro keel is probably to bribe (a beer or
two?) some builder with lead-casting experience to help you, read all
the articles on "keel anxiety" and go by the plans.
If you just can't do cast lead, the second best choice is probably a
combination of lead shot and epoxy. Someone with some knowlege about
this sort of thing posted here that a density about half of pure lead
was a realisitic expectation.
Another option is to find an industrial supplier of lead sheets used
for x-ray protection in hospitals and doctors' offices. If you can
get the right thickness, you just have to cut out the profile, and
they would probably buy back the scrap.
Finally, the folks at Mars Machine Works (name???) sell (or sold)
streamline castings for bolting onto the bottom of a fin keel to make
an instant bulb. I think there must be a way to use something like
that.
Peter
I think gold is probably cheaper than depleted uranium, but doesn't weigh as
much either.
_____
From:bruce@...[mailto:bruce@...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 9:13 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Concrete Micro keel.
--- "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
that gold would make good ballast too.
Bolger rules!!!
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much either.
_____
From:bruce@...[mailto:bruce@...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 9:13 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Concrete Micro keel.
--- "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
> depleted uraniumBolger wrote, in Folding Schooner I think,
that gold would make good ballast too.
Bolger rules!!!
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- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Or.... cut the hull off-center and have a Micro-proa!
David Romasco
_____
From: proaconstrictor [mailto:proaconstrictor@...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 8:45 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Concrete Micro keel.
You guys are nut's. Why can't you just stick to the plans.
Of course it would be pretty cool to loose the weight, slice it down
the middle, and run it as a catamaran. Heck you could then use 1/4"
plywood.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
David Romasco
_____
From: proaconstrictor [mailto:proaconstrictor@...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 8:45 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Concrete Micro keel.
You guys are nut's. Why can't you just stick to the plans.
Of course it would be pretty cool to loose the weight, slice it down
the middle, and run it as a catamaran. Heck you could then use 1/4"
plywood.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
that gold would make good ballast too.
> depleted uraniumBolger wrote, in Folding Schooner I think,
that gold would make good ballast too.
You guys are nut's. Why can't you just stick to the plans.
Of course it would be pretty cool to loose the weight, slice it down
the middle, and run it as a catamaran. Heck you could then use 1/4"
plywood.
Of course it would be pretty cool to loose the weight, slice it down
the middle, and run it as a catamaran. Heck you could then use 1/4"
plywood.
Pressurized beer system? hmmmmmmm.... stop it Peter, you're giving me ideas!
Paul Lefebvre
Paul Lefebvre
--- "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@y...> wrote:
I think a 12" wide shoe on the bottom
of a 'modified' Micro would also have
the added attribute of being able to
dryout on a tideflat {with some simple
added legs}, [like with Col. H.G.
Hassler].
Bear in mind that this concrete
casting mold would need to be built
with precise curves, on both sides
*and* top and bottom, not an easy
thing to do.
Easier to cast a 1 1/2" slab of
lead lying on it side, IMO.
> So the ratio is (710-64)/(144-64) = 8/1.= 12" wide
I think a 12" wide shoe on the bottom
of a 'modified' Micro would also have
the added attribute of being able to
dryout on a tideflat {with some simple
added legs}, [like with Col. H.G.
Hassler].
Bear in mind that this concrete
casting mold would need to be built
with precise curves, on both sides
*and* top and bottom, not an easy
thing to do.
Easier to cast a 1 1/2" slab of
lead lying on it side, IMO.
Peter, seems to me that the blue styrofoam hull could be covered with
stapled-on wire mesh and then coated with epoxy mastic to form a sort of
ferro-cement alternative construction. The twin bilge-keels are natural
attachment points for bolted-on wheels, and the foam/mesh/mastic
construction (combined with the foam ballast system by Lincoln Ross) would
suggest that a bicycle tow vehicle (a la Sven and his beloved BRIS) is a
genuine practicality. Of course, if you pursue the depleted uranium ballast
option, the result would be hard to tow; the simple option is to have a
quick-release for the ballast bulb, so it can remain at the launch ramp
while you peddle away with your ultralite Micro!
David Romasco, making light of a heavy topic
_____
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:peterlenihan@...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 1:55 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Concrete Micro keel.
stapled-on wire mesh and then coated with epoxy mastic to form a sort of
ferro-cement alternative construction. The twin bilge-keels are natural
attachment points for bolted-on wheels, and the foam/mesh/mastic
construction (combined with the foam ballast system by Lincoln Ross) would
suggest that a bicycle tow vehicle (a la Sven and his beloved BRIS) is a
genuine practicality. Of course, if you pursue the depleted uranium ballast
option, the result would be hard to tow; the simple option is to have a
quick-release for the ballast bulb, so it can remain at the launch ramp
while you peddle away with your ultralite Micro!
David Romasco, making light of a heavy topic
_____
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:peterlenihan@...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 1:55 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Concrete Micro keel.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Justin Meddock" <jmeddock@n...> wrote:
> From: "craig o'donnell"
> >
> > Stop this insanity. A micro is not meant to be built on a
strongback or
> > have a concrete keel.
>
>
> And I was just about to suggest a twin concrete bilge-keeled Micro.
> Maybe hydrogen filled hollow spars to offset some of the keel
density...
>
> Justin
There goes about 3 hours worth of doodling ideas...... for a
hollow,helium filled,wing mast,stepped hull bottom and foils added to
the bige keels. Given a bit more time there would have also been a
schedule for doing the entire hull with blue styrofoam sandwiched
between two outside layers of glass and epoxy(we don't need no
stinkin' MDO anyhow!),a bulbous bow section,pressurized beer delivery
system and out-riggers to regain some of the lost stability from the
neutral buoyancy,ballast free, bilge keels/hydro-foils.With a flying
bridge added to the pilot house(we are putting a pilot house on
her,no?) and fold out bimini tops over the outrigger amas to add
another four berths and pool table,she'd be so light one could tow
her behind a bicyle à la Svend Lundin(sp).Then we'd simply drop the
name Micro and call this new creation a Macro :-)
Where is Le Mouton Noir de Kingston when we need him!!!!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,in desperate need of a few cold sobering beers to calm
his growing excitement...............
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Justin Meddock" <jmeddock@n...> wrote:
hollow,helium filled,wing mast,stepped hull bottom and foils added to
the bige keels. Given a bit more time there would have also been a
schedule for doing the entire hull with blue styrofoam sandwiched
between two outside layers of glass and epoxy(we don't need no
stinkin' MDO anyhow!),a bulbous bow section,pressurized beer delivery
system and out-riggers to regain some of the lost stability from the
neutral buoyancy,ballast free, bilge keels/hydro-foils.With a flying
bridge added to the pilot house(we are putting a pilot house on
her,no?) and fold out bimini tops over the outrigger amas to add
another four berths and pool table,she'd be so light one could tow
her behind a bicyle à la Svend Lundin(sp).Then we'd simply drop the
name Micro and call this new creation a Macro :-)
Where is Le Mouton Noir de Kingston when we need him!!!!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,in desperate need of a few cold sobering beers to calm
his growing excitement...............
> From: "craig o'donnell"strongback or
> >
> > Stop this insanity. A micro is not meant to be built on a
> > have a concrete keel.density...
>
>
> And I was just about to suggest a twin concrete bilge-keeled Micro.
> Maybe hydrogen filled hollow spars to offset some of the keel
>There goes about 3 hours worth of doodling ideas...... for a
> Justin
hollow,helium filled,wing mast,stepped hull bottom and foils added to
the bige keels. Given a bit more time there would have also been a
schedule for doing the entire hull with blue styrofoam sandwiched
between two outside layers of glass and epoxy(we don't need no
stinkin' MDO anyhow!),a bulbous bow section,pressurized beer delivery
system and out-riggers to regain some of the lost stability from the
neutral buoyancy,ballast free, bilge keels/hydro-foils.With a flying
bridge added to the pilot house(we are putting a pilot house on
her,no?) and fold out bimini tops over the outrigger amas to add
another four berths and pool table,she'd be so light one could tow
her behind a bicyle à la Svend Lundin(sp).Then we'd simply drop the
name Micro and call this new creation a Macro :-)
Where is Le Mouton Noir de Kingston when we need him!!!!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,in desperate need of a few cold sobering beers to calm
his growing excitement...............
From: "craig o'donnell"
Maybe hydrogen filled hollow spars to offset some of the keel density...
Justin
>And I was just about to suggest a twin concrete bilge-keeled Micro.
> Stop this insanity. A micro is not meant to be built on a strongback or
> have a concrete keel.
Maybe hydrogen filled hollow spars to offset some of the keel density...
Justin
Yeah, clearly this is moving in the wrong direction. I think using depleted
uranium would do more to preserve the keel shape and improve performance, as
it's almost exactly twice the density of normal lead. True, getting it
isn't as easy as picking up discarded wheelweights, but for those of you who
aren't close to Iraq or Afghanistan, here's a tip: go through the dumpsters
at major weapons labs or heavy armor testing ranges (it's easier to throw
this stuff away than keep track of it, and if you're nice they'll probably
even help load it into your trunk!).
Be careful when you're casting the ballast weight, remember to take the same
precautions as you would when working with lead.
Yup, it's that simple. Good luck in dumpster diving!
David Romasco
_____
From: craig o'donnell [mailto:dadadata@...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 9:24 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Concrete Micro keel.
have a concrete keel.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
uranium would do more to preserve the keel shape and improve performance, as
it's almost exactly twice the density of normal lead. True, getting it
isn't as easy as picking up discarded wheelweights, but for those of you who
aren't close to Iraq or Afghanistan, here's a tip: go through the dumpsters
at major weapons labs or heavy armor testing ranges (it's easier to throw
this stuff away than keep track of it, and if you're nice they'll probably
even help load it into your trunk!).
Be careful when you're casting the ballast weight, remember to take the same
precautions as you would when working with lead.
Yup, it's that simple. Good luck in dumpster diving!
David Romasco
_____
From: craig o'donnell [mailto:dadadata@...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 9:24 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Concrete Micro keel.
>> > Lead weighs 710 lbs/cfStop this insanity. A micro is not meant to be built on a strongback or
>> > Concrete weighs about 144 lbs/cf
>> > Ratio of 5:1
>> Don't forget lots of rebar.
have a concrete keel.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> > Lead weighs 710 lbs/cfStop this insanity. A micro is not meant to be built on a strongback or
>> > Concrete weighs about 144 lbs/cf
>> > Ratio of 5:1
>> Don't forget lots of rebar.
have a concrete keel.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
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_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
> > Lead weighs 710 lbs/cfThe ratio is worse that you suppose. You only get to count the weight
> > Concrete weighs about 144 lbs/cf
> > Ratio of 5:1
> Don't forget lots of rebar.
not offset by buoyancy of 64 lbs/cf.
So the ratio is (710-64)/(144-64) = 8/1.
So, you want to use lots and lots of rebar, as much as you can.
Peter
--- Justin Meddock wrote:
centered in the middle of the
boat the the ends of the boat
to be light weight.
> What about making the whole thing 'crete,I think Bolger wants the ballast
centered in the middle of the
boat the the ends of the boat
to be light weight.
A joke on the near limits of taste. It is an acronym for the name given a
lass who gets a man excited and then leaves him unsatisfied. (with a
concious nod to the torpedo boats too)
Roger
lass who gets a man excited and then leaves him unsatisfied. (with a
concious nod to the torpedo boats too)
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 8:52 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: building a micro on a
strongback?........done....argyra
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> > Jason, are you saying your boat is a PT?
> >
> > Roger
>
> Roger, i'm a bit on the slow side.......a torpedo boat? Physical
> training? peruvian tuna boat....huh?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
training? peruvian tuna boat....huh?
Jason
> Jason, are you saying your boat is a PT?Roger, i'm a bit on the slow side.......a torpedo boat? Physical
>
> Roger
training? peruvian tuna boat....huh?
Jason
I can't help but think this is a bad idea. How do you propose to attach it
to the hull? What if it cracks and falls off?
Concrete (and steel punchings to get the density up) is OK for inside
ballast, but outside? I just don't know. It'll probably be slow too. If the
lead scares you so much, build a different boat.
The Boating Curmudgeon
to the hull? What if it cracks and falls off?
Concrete (and steel punchings to get the density up) is OK for inside
ballast, but outside? I just don't know. It'll probably be slow too. If the
lead scares you so much, build a different boat.
The Boating Curmudgeon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 5:36 PM
Subject: [bolger] Concrete Micro keel.
| Being a non-linear thinker...
|
| Lead weighs 710 lbs/cf
| Concrete weighs about 144 lbs/cf
|
| Ratio of 5:1
|
| A micro concrete keel, the same weight and
| profile as a lead one would need to be
| five times thicker, IOW, 7 1/2" thick.
|
| If the fin keel was changed to an 7 1/2" +/-
| wide box keel on a Micro, with a concrete
| center section, free flooding chambers fore
| and aft the melting & cost of lead could be
| avoided.
|
| The concrete box keel could taper to a point
| at the stem and stern to be hydrodynamic.
| The center of gravity would be identical.
|
| The box keel would be roughly the shape of
| the box on Col. H. G. Hasler. #635.
|
| Which, by the way is about the same size
| as a Long Micro and has a Navigator cabin.
|
|
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
| - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
| - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
| - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
| - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
| - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
| Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|
|
|
> If the fin keel was changed to an 7 1/2" +/-What about making the whole thing 'crete, on the
> wide box keel on a Micro, with a concrete
> center section, free flooding chambers fore
> and aft the melting & cost of lead could be
> avoided.
original dimensions, flooding part and all.
Would that weigh enough w/o the
big old fat section? I guess it would put some weight
in the ends.
since you have your slide rule out already...
Justin
On Apr 5, 2004, at 3:36 PM, Bruce Hallman wrote:
hal
> Being a non-linear thinker...Don't forget lots of rebar.
>
> Lead weighs 710 lbs/cf
> Concrete weighs about 144 lbs/cf
>
> Ratio of 5:1
hal
What was I thinking!
In the Libertarian spirit
of Phil Bolger; rules should
be minimal. Like:
1) Needs to look like a Micro.
2) All else is allowed.
--- Paul Lefebvre <paul@...> wrote:
In the Libertarian spirit
of Phil Bolger; rules should
be minimal. Like:
1) Needs to look like a Micro.
2) All else is allowed.
--- Paul Lefebvre <paul@...> wrote:
> that disqualifies my boat...
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Hallman [mailto:bruce@...]
> Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 12:26 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Building a Micro contest.
>
>
> --- Nels
> > a MICRO building contest.
>
> Lets propose some rules:
>
> No paint/glass required.
> Air powered staplers allowed.
> Home Depot materials only.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or
> flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts,
> and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:
>bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or
> flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts,
> and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:
>bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
Being a non-linear thinker...
Lead weighs 710 lbs/cf
Concrete weighs about 144 lbs/cf
Ratio of 5:1
A micro concrete keel, the same weight and
profile as a lead one would need to be
five times thicker, IOW, 7 1/2" thick.
If the fin keel was changed to an 7 1/2" +/-
wide box keel on a Micro, with a concrete
center section, free flooding chambers fore
and aft the melting & cost of lead could be
avoided.
The concrete box keel could taper to a point
at the stem and stern to be hydrodynamic.
The center of gravity would be identical.
The box keel would be roughly the shape of
the box on Col. H. G. Hasler. #635.
Which, by the way is about the same size
as a Long Micro and has a Navigator cabin.
Lead weighs 710 lbs/cf
Concrete weighs about 144 lbs/cf
Ratio of 5:1
A micro concrete keel, the same weight and
profile as a lead one would need to be
five times thicker, IOW, 7 1/2" thick.
If the fin keel was changed to an 7 1/2" +/-
wide box keel on a Micro, with a concrete
center section, free flooding chambers fore
and aft the melting & cost of lead could be
avoided.
The concrete box keel could taper to a point
at the stem and stern to be hydrodynamic.
The center of gravity would be identical.
The box keel would be roughly the shape of
the box on Col. H. G. Hasler. #635.
Which, by the way is about the same size
as a Long Micro and has a Navigator cabin.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
got a beautiful head start on other builders-to-be. If this keeps
up,I'll have to buy back LESTAT from NELS and enter the contest too:-)
Now quit yer scheming Paul and launch that Micro this summer!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> that disqualifies my boat...It sure does!Besides,the contest hasn't even started yet and you've
>
> Paul
got a beautiful head start on other builders-to-be. If this keeps
up,I'll have to buy back LESTAT from NELS and enter the contest too:-)
Now quit yer scheming Paul and launch that Micro this summer!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Jason, are you saying your boat is a PT?
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 11:57 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: building a micro on a
strongback?........done....argyra
> Nels it's from greek mythology she's a sea nymph:
>
> The local legend about Selemnos is that he was a handsome lad who
> used to feed his flocks here. Argyra , they say, was a Sea-Nymphe
> (Thalassa Nymphe), who fell in love with Selemnos and used to come
> up out of the sea to visit him, sleeping by his side. After no long
> while Selemnos no longer seemed so handsome, and the nymph would not
> visit him. So Selemnos, deserted by Argyra, died of love, and
> Aphrodite turned him into a river. This is what the people of Patrai
> say. As Selemnos continued to love Argyra even when he was turned
> into water, just as Alpheios in the legend continued to love
> Arethousa, Aphrodite bestowed on him a further gift, by blotting out
> the memory of Argyra." -Pausanias 7.23.1
>
> Better than the "argo" while it was drying out in a state of
> disrepair a plank fell of that thing smacked jason in the head and
> killed him while he was drunk and passed out beside it......more
> suitable, but a bad omen by any stretch of the imagination
>
> I'll still fly blackbead's version of the jolly roger.....you know
> the horned skeleton with goblet and spear through a bleeding
> heart......got to keep it true to beaufort, nc.....my home
> port....they found the queen anne's revenge(blackbeard's flagship)
> out in the inlet a couple of years ago.
>
> Jason and the argonauts
>
> > With a boat name like that, I assume you will be flying the skull
> and
> > crossbones?
> >
> > AAARGYRAH!!!!
> >
> > Nels:-)
that disqualifies my boat...
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Hallman [mailto:bruce@...]
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 12:26 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Building a Micro contest.
--- Nels
No paint/glass required.
Air powered staplers allowed.
Home Depot materials only.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Hallman [mailto:bruce@...]
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 12:26 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Building a Micro contest.
--- Nels
> a MICRO building contest.Lets propose some rules:
No paint/glass required.
Air powered staplers allowed.
Home Depot materials only.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...>
wrote:
believe it's a good design, I just tend to have the personal
preference of other hulls, or sharpies vs the Micro's lead.
My neighbour is building a Wharram 46 strongbackless, and so naturaly
I have sold him on the idea of one for hull two. Like you say horses
for courses. That is an 80K boat (by the same reasoning a Micro is
like 3K) and there is a lot of compounding in the first run of
planking.
I can't ever seem to make a Bolger without over-complicating it. I
dream of just good ply, ring shank nails an latex, but I can't seem
to do it. When I do it right, I think there is minimal pay-off.
My pal was building his 46 on Saturday in a T-shirt, admitedly his
enclosure is dark tarp, but still the outlook for boatbuilding is
improving.
wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor"is
> <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> > Let me just stipulate that a) this is a great idea b) the micro
> > the best imagineable design ever to be drawn.will
>
> Gee Thomas,I never thought you'd come around to seeing the
> light,especially your point B :-)
>
> Seriously, a strongback may indeed be over complicating things for
> some, while for others, it could be a Godsend. I like to see it as
> just another nifty"tool" in my arsenal of
> techniques/methods/tools "box" and use it where appropriate and
> do the most good.For me,it was most useful while setting up myMicro
> in short bursts.and
>
> Isn't it good to know that warm weather is just around the corner
> boats are being built.......Hey, I own Micro plans, though possibly I sold them. I totaly
>
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan
believe it's a good design, I just tend to have the personal
preference of other hulls, or sharpies vs the Micro's lead.
My neighbour is building a Wharram 46 strongbackless, and so naturaly
I have sold him on the idea of one for hull two. Like you say horses
for courses. That is an 80K boat (by the same reasoning a Micro is
like 3K) and there is a lot of compounding in the first run of
planking.
I can't ever seem to make a Bolger without over-complicating it. I
dream of just good ply, ring shank nails an latex, but I can't seem
to do it. When I do it right, I think there is minimal pay-off.
My pal was building his 46 on Saturday in a T-shirt, admitedly his
enclosure is dark tarp, but still the outlook for boatbuilding is
improving.
--- Nels
No paint/glass required.
Air powered staplers allowed.
Home Depot materials only.
> a MICRO building contest.Lets propose some rules:
No paint/glass required.
Air powered staplers allowed.
Home Depot materials only.
Nels it's from greek mythology she's a sea nymph:
The local legend about Selemnos is that he was a handsome lad who
used to feed his flocks here. Argyra , they say, was a Sea-Nymphe
(Thalassa Nymphe), who fell in love with Selemnos and used to come
up out of the sea to visit him, sleeping by his side. After no long
while Selemnos no longer seemed so handsome, and the nymph would not
visit him. So Selemnos, deserted by Argyra, died of love, and
Aphrodite turned him into a river. This is what the people of Patrai
say. As Selemnos continued to love Argyra even when he was turned
into water, just as Alpheios in the legend continued to love
Arethousa, Aphrodite bestowed on him a further gift, by blotting out
the memory of Argyra." -Pausanias 7.23.1
Better than the "argo" while it was drying out in a state of
disrepair a plank fell of that thing smacked jason in the head and
killed him while he was drunk and passed out beside it......more
suitable, but a bad omen by any stretch of the imagination
I'll still fly blackbead's version of the jolly roger.....you know
the horned skeleton with goblet and spear through a bleeding
heart......got to keep it true to beaufort, nc.....my home
port....they found the queen anne's revenge(blackbeard's flagship)
out in the inlet a couple of years ago.
Jason and the argonauts
The local legend about Selemnos is that he was a handsome lad who
used to feed his flocks here. Argyra , they say, was a Sea-Nymphe
(Thalassa Nymphe), who fell in love with Selemnos and used to come
up out of the sea to visit him, sleeping by his side. After no long
while Selemnos no longer seemed so handsome, and the nymph would not
visit him. So Selemnos, deserted by Argyra, died of love, and
Aphrodite turned him into a river. This is what the people of Patrai
say. As Selemnos continued to love Argyra even when he was turned
into water, just as Alpheios in the legend continued to love
Arethousa, Aphrodite bestowed on him a further gift, by blotting out
the memory of Argyra." -Pausanias 7.23.1
Better than the "argo" while it was drying out in a state of
disrepair a plank fell of that thing smacked jason in the head and
killed him while he was drunk and passed out beside it......more
suitable, but a bad omen by any stretch of the imagination
I'll still fly blackbead's version of the jolly roger.....you know
the horned skeleton with goblet and spear through a bleeding
heart......got to keep it true to beaufort, nc.....my home
port....they found the queen anne's revenge(blackbeard's flagship)
out in the inlet a couple of years ago.
Jason and the argonauts
> With a boat name like that, I assume you will be flying the skulland
> crossbones?
>
> AAARGYRAH!!!!
>
> Nels:-)
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...>
wrote:
Having witnessed you flying the Maple Leaf so patriotically, I would
have thought you already had one of them thar Liberal Advertising
Contracts!
Also I am thinking as a part of the Bolger Messabout to have a MICRO
building contest. Canada vs: USA showdown. Susan of course can choose
to be on either team. Aussies and Kiwi's are not allowed as they are
too damn good.
Cheers, Nels
wrote:
>> Sincerely,PETER:
>
> Peter Lenihan,SAD researcher and hopefully a soon to be rewarded
> recipient of a truck load of beer........I mean "grants"....from
> along the snowy(what again!?) shores of the St.Lawrence.......
Having witnessed you flying the Maple Leaf so patriotically, I would
have thought you already had one of them thar Liberal Advertising
Contracts!
Also I am thinking as a part of the Bolger Messabout to have a MICRO
building contest. Canada vs: USA showdown. Susan of course can choose
to be on either team. Aussies and Kiwi's are not allowed as they are
too damn good.
Cheers, Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
crossbones?
AAARGYRAH!!!!
Nels:-)
wrote:
>> Argyra will be 3d this time next week!....and i'll be out of townWith a boat name like that, I assume you will be flying the skull and
> for 4 days this week....
> Thanks for everbody's help!
> Jason Stancil
crossbones?
AAARGYRAH!!!!
Nels:-)
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
I too have experienced, at different times, the notion that a
previously adequate opening was shrinking or had shrunk over the
course of a Canadian winter. After much cursing and reviewing of the
plans,scale rule and tape in hand, I was forced to conclude that the
measurements had in fact remained unchanged.Strangely, this did
little to change the aweful fact that things continued to feel
smaller and that both splinters and blisters were occuring on parts
of my body where even my Pesky Crew doesn't visit all that
often.This,of course, forced me to put on my "thinking cap",crack
open a cold one and begin the long tedious process of transforming
alcohol back to water while rooting around the nether regions of my
otherwise hollow cranium.
After what seemed like a life time of rooting around,using the
mound of perfectly re-cyclable brown glass containers as a sort of
giant free form unfettered hour glass, I finally found what may be
the only possible explaination for the dreaded "shrinking opening
phenomena". Indeed, it is something I have come to call the SAD
syndrome.Yessirree,and to think it was looking at me all the time
from under my nose! This SAD or Seasonally Affected Diameter
syndrome, has been the root of many a poor fellows growing dismay
that his dearly appreciated and much cherished boat is somehow
evicting him from his own vessel by making any attempts to enter
forever more difficult.
I'm not yet certain just how extensive this problem is amongst
amateur boatbuilders nor whether it is somehow related to specific
geographic regions or climates but I firmly believe that a
system,similar to the Plimsoll Line on ocean vessels,should be
elaborated and used on small boats. Thus calibrated,a small boat then
would have hatches with "variable ring sizes" colour coded to match
the seasons.An owner would then have to simply look up the the season
to find the appropriate colour coded VR(variable ring) in his handy
SAD Manual.With any luck,splinters-n-blisters on haunches-n-tushes
may become a thing of the past!
Withing a week or two,my research grant application for further
study into this little understood phenomena should be just about
completed and ready to send off to the John Molson School of
Fermented Thinking.
Wish me luck! :-)
Since he may have been a dangerous
really ticked off since the blood alcohol content out West may have
been somewhat bellow the high octane stuff he grew up on out here.Ya
did right ta put 'im out of 'is missery Nels......God knows he cost
me plenty in wasted beer :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,SAD researcher and hopefully a soon to be rewarded
recipient of a truck load of beer........I mean "grants"....from
along the snowy(what again!?) shores of the St.Lawrence.......
> Peter,Nels,
>
> Yesterday I crawled in under the winter cover through the stern
> opening and lolled around inside LESTAT for awhile:-) Gee that
> opening seems to have shrunk over the winter!
I too have experienced, at different times, the notion that a
previously adequate opening was shrinking or had shrunk over the
course of a Canadian winter. After much cursing and reviewing of the
plans,scale rule and tape in hand, I was forced to conclude that the
measurements had in fact remained unchanged.Strangely, this did
little to change the aweful fact that things continued to feel
smaller and that both splinters and blisters were occuring on parts
of my body where even my Pesky Crew doesn't visit all that
often.This,of course, forced me to put on my "thinking cap",crack
open a cold one and begin the long tedious process of transforming
alcohol back to water while rooting around the nether regions of my
otherwise hollow cranium.
After what seemed like a life time of rooting around,using the
mound of perfectly re-cyclable brown glass containers as a sort of
giant free form unfettered hour glass, I finally found what may be
the only possible explaination for the dreaded "shrinking opening
phenomena". Indeed, it is something I have come to call the SAD
syndrome.Yessirree,and to think it was looking at me all the time
from under my nose! This SAD or Seasonally Affected Diameter
syndrome, has been the root of many a poor fellows growing dismay
that his dearly appreciated and much cherished boat is somehow
evicting him from his own vessel by making any attempts to enter
forever more difficult.
I'm not yet certain just how extensive this problem is amongst
amateur boatbuilders nor whether it is somehow related to specific
geographic regions or climates but I firmly believe that a
system,similar to the Plimsoll Line on ocean vessels,should be
elaborated and used on small boats. Thus calibrated,a small boat then
would have hatches with "variable ring sizes" colour coded to match
the seasons.An owner would then have to simply look up the the season
to find the appropriate colour coded VR(variable ring) in his handy
SAD Manual.With any luck,splinters-n-blisters on haunches-n-tushes
may become a thing of the past!
Withing a week or two,my research grant application for further
study into this little understood phenomena should be just about
completed and ready to send off to the John Molson School of
Fermented Thinking.
Wish me luck! :-)
Since he may have been a dangerous
> Eastern Killer Horsefly ???????? Whaddyamean,horsefly! This wasprobably just one of our more robust species of mosquito feeling
really ticked off since the blood alcohol content out West may have
been somewhat bellow the high octane stuff he grew up on out here.Ya
did right ta put 'im out of 'is missery Nels......God knows he cost
me plenty in wasted beer :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,SAD researcher and hopefully a soon to be rewarded
recipient of a truck load of beer........I mean "grants"....from
along the snowy(what again!?) shores of the St.Lawrence.......
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
for 4 days this week....
Thanks for everbody's help!
Jason Stancil
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:Argyra will be 3d this time next week!....and i'll be out of town
> > Jason, a man who makes his mind up and acts!
> > Good decision.
> > Good on ya!
> > DonB
> >http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
> >
> Just shows what can happen when you get sound advice eh Don?
>
> Nels:-)
for 4 days this week....
Thanks for everbody's help!
Jason Stancil
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:
Nels:-)
> Jason, a man who makes his mind up and acts!Just shows what can happen when you get sound advice eh Don?
> Good decision.
> Good on ya!
> DonB
>http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
>
Nels:-)
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
named plans buyer said. Here is the link:
http://www.boatdesign.com/micro/letters/mnl01.htm
Cheers, Nels
> --- sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:Well that's not exactly what he said - he was repeating what an un-
> > Elrow La Rowe (July 1984)
> > where he says that
> > Micro was designed to be built
> > in two weeks of
> > normal working days....
>
named plans buyer said. Here is the link:
http://www.boatdesign.com/micro/letters/mnl01.htm
Cheers, Nels
--- sctree <sctree@...> wrote:
of his old newsletters? Or,
a personal letter, and if
so, I would love to see a
scan or a copy of it.
The Navigator version, is
more complex than a plain
Micro.
Big time eaters, not in a standard Micro...
The cabin, windows, roof and hatches.
The dresser drawers.
The rig, yards and dozens of sheaves.
The upholstery.
My photovoltaic/electrical system.
I think the intention of Bolger
for Micro is quick/simple/cheap/effective
boat not a gold plater.
> Elrow La Rowe (July 1984)Sounds right. Is that one
> where he says that
> Micro was designed to be built
> in two weeks of
> normal working days....
of his old newsletters? Or,
a personal letter, and if
so, I would love to see a
scan or a copy of it.
The Navigator version, is
more complex than a plain
Micro.
Big time eaters, not in a standard Micro...
The cabin, windows, roof and hatches.
The dresser drawers.
The rig, yards and dozens of sheaves.
The upholstery.
My photovoltaic/electrical system.
I think the intention of Bolger
for Micro is quick/simple/cheap/effective
boat not a gold plater.
Jason, a man who makes his mind up and acts!
Good decision.
Good on ya!
DonB
http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
Good decision.
Good on ya!
DonB
http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> I decided to do the strong back just to make my life easier.resquare
> time spent:
> 10 minutes to drive to lowes
> 30 minutes wandering around that place
> 5 minutes to load the 2x10x16 and studs on my roof rack
> 10 minutes to drive home
> 45 minutes to frame it square it and level it..........
>
> Total: 1 hour and 40 minutes
>
> Still have to rig a center line, water line, attach frames,
> build boat etc, etc
>
> No doubt it will save me an hour and 40 minutes of headache later.
>
> Jason
Here here!
(He says sticking his nose in where it's not wanted)......
I have a letter here from Elrow La Rowe (July 1984) where he says that
Micro was designed to be built in two weeks of normal working days....
Other reports indicate many of the early builders had Micro's floating
in 100-120 hours, while one was built (in Ft. Lauderdale IIRC) in forty
hours............ Not to take away from those of you building to Gold
Platter, or icebreaker standards.
Rick
proaconstrictor wrote:
(He says sticking his nose in where it's not wanted)......
I have a letter here from Elrow La Rowe (July 1984) where he says that
Micro was designed to be built in two weeks of normal working days....
Other reports indicate many of the early builders had Micro's floating
in 100-120 hours, while one was built (in Ft. Lauderdale IIRC) in forty
hours............ Not to take away from those of you building to Gold
Platter, or icebreaker standards.
Rick
proaconstrictor wrote:
> Let me just stipulate that a) this is a great idea b) the micro is[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> the best imagineable design ever to be drawn.
>
> But,
>
> There comes a point were why not just build a real boat. At what
> point is the difference between a strikingly executed long micro like
> the one shown, and a real boat, about one saturday of work cutting
> out bulkheads and slaping on bilge strips or a few strakes, or
> whatever your preference.
>
> I've built about 9 hulls without strongbacks, and only regularly
> build strip boats on strongbacks. I can't ever remember spending
> even half an hour leveling them, and I don't think there is any twist
> or other uneveness in my boats. The more this process is complicated
> the more it becomes equivalent in time and money to any other kind of
> boat being built. I've built Bolger boxes that really worked better
> than alternative fancy desings. But I also banked the speed and cost
> advantages to building them.
>
I decided to do the strong back just to make my life easier.
time spent:
10 minutes to drive to lowes
30 minutes wandering around that place
5 minutes to load the 2x10x16 and studs on my roof rack
10 minutes to drive home
45 minutes to frame it square it and level it..........
Total: 1 hour and 40 minutes
Still have to rig a center line, water line, attach frames, resquare
build boat etc, etc
No doubt it will save me an hour and 40 minutes of headache later.
Jason
time spent:
10 minutes to drive to lowes
30 minutes wandering around that place
5 minutes to load the 2x10x16 and studs on my roof rack
10 minutes to drive home
45 minutes to frame it square it and level it..........
Total: 1 hour and 40 minutes
Still have to rig a center line, water line, attach frames, resquare
build boat etc, etc
No doubt it will save me an hour and 40 minutes of headache later.
Jason
I've not seen a Micro under construction. Is it considered an
"instant" boat, no strongback etc or is it designed with building on
some sort of frame in mind?
I know some boats are easily built without a strongback but Peter
Lenihan is absolutely right in noting that building on a strongback is
like having extra hands. Sometimes the "strongback" is a pretty
primitive affair but helpful nevertheless. When I built my Bobcat
instead of leaving the two structural frames hanging loose so to speak
I mounted them on a couple of 2x6s. I can only say it saved me a lot
of grief. I did try to do it as spelled out in Mr Payson's book but I
just didn't have enough hands available. As to leveling you are right.
You don't need to level anything but you will if you want to save a
lot of trouble. The frames have to be parallel to each other, at right
angles to a baseline (imaginary or real) and the waterline as a
baseline has to be a straight line. Levelling just makes all this easier.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor"
<proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
"instant" boat, no strongback etc or is it designed with building on
some sort of frame in mind?
I know some boats are easily built without a strongback but Peter
Lenihan is absolutely right in noting that building on a strongback is
like having extra hands. Sometimes the "strongback" is a pretty
primitive affair but helpful nevertheless. When I built my Bobcat
instead of leaving the two structural frames hanging loose so to speak
I mounted them on a couple of 2x6s. I can only say it saved me a lot
of grief. I did try to do it as spelled out in Mr Payson's book but I
just didn't have enough hands available. As to leveling you are right.
You don't need to level anything but you will if you want to save a
lot of trouble. The frames have to be parallel to each other, at right
angles to a baseline (imaginary or real) and the waterline as a
baseline has to be a straight line. Levelling just makes all this easier.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor"
<proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> Let me just stipulate that a) this is a great idea b) the micro is
> the best imagineable design ever to be drawn.
>
> But,
>
> There comes a point were why not just build a real boat. At what
> point is the difference between a strikingly executed long micro like
> the one shown, and a real boat, about one saturday of work cutting
> out bulkheads and slaping on bilge strips or a few strakes, or
> whatever your preference.
>
> I've built about 9 hulls without strongbacks, and only regularly
> build strip boats on strongbacks. I can't ever remember spending
> even half an hour leveling them, and I don't think there is any twist
> or other uneveness in my boats. The more this process is complicated
> the more it becomes equivalent in time and money to any other kind of
> boat being built. I've built Bolger boxes that really worked better
> than alternative fancy desings. But I also banked the speed and cost
> advantages to building them.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor"
<proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
light,especially your point B :-)
Seriously, a strongback may indeed be over complicating things for
some, while for others, it could be a Godsend. I like to see it as
just another nifty"tool" in my arsenal of
techniques/methods/tools "box" and use it where appropriate and will
do the most good.For me,it was most useful while setting up my Micro
in short bursts.
Isn't it good to know that warm weather is just around the corner and
boats are being built.......
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
<proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> Let me just stipulate that a) this is a great idea b) the micro isGee Thomas,I never thought you'd come around to seeing the
> the best imagineable design ever to be drawn.
light,especially your point B :-)
Seriously, a strongback may indeed be over complicating things for
some, while for others, it could be a Godsend. I like to see it as
just another nifty"tool" in my arsenal of
techniques/methods/tools "box" and use it where appropriate and will
do the most good.For me,it was most useful while setting up my Micro
in short bursts.
Isn't it good to know that warm weather is just around the corner and
boats are being built.......
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor"
<proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
in addition to the ease of building.
The strongback frame is just used as a means to hold the bulkheads in
position while the chine logs and topsides are attached. Certainly
not necessary, but nice to have if one is working part time and
alone.
Building a strongback and setting up the bulkheads could probably be
accomplished in one day if one had to. Very simple framing.
I am sure I would use one even for an OLDSHOE as well.
Cheers, Nels
<proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> Let me just stipulate that a) this is a great idea b) the micro isI find that LONG MICRO has several other features that meet my needs,
> the best imagineable design ever to be drawn.
>
> But,
>
> There comes a point were why not just build a real boat.
in addition to the ease of building.
The strongback frame is just used as a means to hold the bulkheads in
position while the chine logs and topsides are attached. Certainly
not necessary, but nice to have if one is working part time and
alone.
Building a strongback and setting up the bulkheads could probably be
accomplished in one day if one had to. Very simple framing.
I am sure I would use one even for an OLDSHOE as well.
Cheers, Nels
Let me just stipulate that a) this is a great idea b) the micro is
the best imagineable design ever to be drawn.
But,
There comes a point were why not just build a real boat. At what
point is the difference between a strikingly executed long micro like
the one shown, and a real boat, about one saturday of work cutting
out bulkheads and slaping on bilge strips or a few strakes, or
whatever your preference.
I've built about 9 hulls without strongbacks, and only regularly
build strip boats on strongbacks. I can't ever remember spending
even half an hour leveling them, and I don't think there is any twist
or other uneveness in my boats. The more this process is complicated
the more it becomes equivalent in time and money to any other kind of
boat being built. I've built Bolger boxes that really worked better
than alternative fancy desings. But I also banked the speed and cost
advantages to building them.
the best imagineable design ever to be drawn.
But,
There comes a point were why not just build a real boat. At what
point is the difference between a strikingly executed long micro like
the one shown, and a real boat, about one saturday of work cutting
out bulkheads and slaping on bilge strips or a few strakes, or
whatever your preference.
I've built about 9 hulls without strongbacks, and only regularly
build strip boats on strongbacks. I can't ever remember spending
even half an hour leveling them, and I don't think there is any twist
or other uneveness in my boats. The more this process is complicated
the more it becomes equivalent in time and money to any other kind of
boat being built. I've built Bolger boxes that really worked better
than alternative fancy desings. But I also banked the speed and cost
advantages to building them.
Jason, set your strongback up on legs. Use clamps to hold your legs
temporarily until the whole thing is level then fasten the legs. It is
also a good idea to put a dab of epoxy glue next to the leg so it
doesn't slide down your slope. It is almost impossible to measure too
many times. Concerning your wire baseline, set it up so it can be
taken down and put back in the exact same place. You are going to step
on the wire a number of times and it has to go back in the original
alignment. I used stranded picture hanging wire. Single strand gets
broken a lot.
Bob Chamberland
temporarily until the whole thing is level then fasten the legs. It is
also a good idea to put a dab of epoxy glue next to the leg so it
doesn't slide down your slope. It is almost impossible to measure too
many times. Concerning your wire baseline, set it up so it can be
taken down and put back in the exact same place. You are going to step
on the wire a number of times and it has to go back in the original
alignment. I used stranded picture hanging wire. Single strand gets
broken a lot.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...> wrote:
> Peter-
> I have faith in the side panel offsets and my ability to mark them.
> However, if i spend quite a bit of time getting everything perfect
> as far as bulkheads and frames are square and at the proper height
> (going to be tough the concrete pad in my garage has a 15ish degree
> slope) and i nstall my chine/shear logs properly.....that should
> produce a fair cure and would be ideal to just trim it off with my
> router....wouldn't it be a waste of time to do all that measuring
> twice?....I think i'm going to loft it for visualization purposes,
> but i'm just wondering if i'm missing something?
> Thanks
> Jason
>
> I already bought a ton of assorted ss and bronze fastners i'm set no
> questions here :)
>
> If i ever start this thing(friday!) i'll be too busy to ask all
> these questions
>
> Nels-i emailed the aussie too but it bounced.....hope he's out
> sailing that beauty.
Peter-
I have faith in the side panel offsets and my ability to mark them.
However, if i spend quite a bit of time getting everything perfect
as far as bulkheads and frames are square and at the proper height
(going to be tough the concrete pad in my garage has a 15ish degree
slope) and i nstall my chine/shear logs properly.....that should
produce a fair cure and would be ideal to just trim it off with my
router....wouldn't it be a waste of time to do all that measuring
twice?....I think i'm going to loft it for visualization purposes,
but i'm just wondering if i'm missing something?
Thanks
Jason
I already bought a ton of assorted ss and bronze fastners i'm set no
questions here :)
If i ever start this thing(friday!) i'll be too busy to ask all
these questions
Nels-i emailed the aussie too but it bounced.....hope he's out
sailing that beauty.
I have faith in the side panel offsets and my ability to mark them.
However, if i spend quite a bit of time getting everything perfect
as far as bulkheads and frames are square and at the proper height
(going to be tough the concrete pad in my garage has a 15ish degree
slope) and i nstall my chine/shear logs properly.....that should
produce a fair cure and would be ideal to just trim it off with my
router....wouldn't it be a waste of time to do all that measuring
twice?....I think i'm going to loft it for visualization purposes,
but i'm just wondering if i'm missing something?
Thanks
Jason
I already bought a ton of assorted ss and bronze fastners i'm set no
questions here :)
If i ever start this thing(friday!) i'll be too busy to ask all
these questions
Nels-i emailed the aussie too but it bounced.....hope he's out
sailing that beauty.
-As I was writing the response below the terrible thought came to me
"Did I level my wire?" and of course the answer is no. Unfortunately
all the molds for my "Camp Skiff" will have to be reset. Fortunately I
hadn't started cutting the sides and bottom. I could build it as is.
It would be a slightly different boat but only as to the angle of the
transom and stem. DON'T FORGET TO RUN YOUR LEVELS!!!!!!!!!!!!
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, cha62759@t... wrote:
"Did I level my wire?" and of course the answer is no. Unfortunately
all the molds for my "Camp Skiff" will have to be reset. Fortunately I
hadn't started cutting the sides and bottom. I could build it as is.
It would be a slightly different boat but only as to the angle of the
transom and stem. DON'T FORGET TO RUN YOUR LEVELS!!!!!!!!!!!!
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, cha62759@t... wrote:
> ERRATA: The wire has to be ABSOLUTELY LEVEL. The rest of the
> strongback has to be REASONABLY LEVEL.
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, cha62759@t... wrote:
> > String a wire just above your strongback timbers as a centerline
> > reference. Your frames should have the waterline or some such as a
> > baseline. Locate your first frame high enough so you can work on the
> > inside. Clamp a batten vertically along the center of the frame. Mark
> > the waterline on the batten and where the batten intersects with the
> > wire. Use this batten on each frame. Set it on the centerline and with
> > the waterline and then line it up with the wire. Use a level
> > vertically along the batten so that the frame is level. If you can get
> > hold of a copy of the Gougeons on Boat Building this process is laid
> > out very understandably. Most of the boatbuilding books have some
> > similar process but this one is the easiest I've found.
> > Bob Chamberland-
> >
ERRATA: The wire has to be ABSOLUTELY LEVEL. The rest of the
strongback has to be REASONABLY LEVEL.
strongback has to be REASONABLY LEVEL.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, cha62759@t... wrote:
> String a wire just above your strongback timbers as a centerline
> reference. Your frames should have the waterline or some such as a
> baseline. Locate your first frame high enough so you can work on the
> inside. Clamp a batten vertically along the center of the frame. Mark
> the waterline on the batten and where the batten intersects with the
> wire. Use this batten on each frame. Set it on the centerline and with
> the waterline and then line it up with the wire. Use a level
> vertically along the batten so that the frame is level. If you can get
> hold of a copy of the Gougeons on Boat Building this process is laid
> out very understandably. Most of the boatbuilding books have some
> similar process but this one is the easiest I've found.
> Bob Chamberland-
>
>
> -- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...> wrote:
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
> > wrote:
> > > Peter or anyone else-
> > > Maybe i'm just a dummy, but, how do i get my frames to the correct
> > > elevations above the strongback's base timbers?
> >
> >
> >
> > Use your plans.Draw your own baseline at a height you feel
> > comfortable with.Measure the elevations with your scale ruler.Hint:
> > turn the plans upside down and visualize things thus.
> >
> >
> > > I'm trying to set a record today to see if i can ask more questions
> > > than anyone ever has in a 24hr. period.
> > > Jason
> >
> >
> > Yup,I'm just waitin' fer the questions about fasteners ta begin :-D
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Peter Lenihan,ex-micro builder and a royal pain in the ass for new
> > Micro builders :-)
String a wire just above your strongback timbers as a centerline
reference. Your frames should have the waterline or some such as a
baseline. Locate your first frame high enough so you can work on the
inside. Clamp a batten vertically along the center of the frame. Mark
the waterline on the batten and where the batten intersects with the
wire. Use this batten on each frame. Set it on the centerline and with
the waterline and then line it up with the wire. Use a level
vertically along the batten so that the frame is level. If you can get
hold of a copy of the Gougeons on Boat Building this process is laid
out very understandably. Most of the boatbuilding books have some
similar process but this one is the easiest I've found.
Bob Chamberland-
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...> wrote:
reference. Your frames should have the waterline or some such as a
baseline. Locate your first frame high enough so you can work on the
inside. Clamp a batten vertically along the center of the frame. Mark
the waterline on the batten and where the batten intersects with the
wire. Use this batten on each frame. Set it on the centerline and with
the waterline and then line it up with the wire. Use a level
vertically along the batten so that the frame is level. If you can get
hold of a copy of the Gougeons on Boat Building this process is laid
out very understandably. Most of the boatbuilding books have some
similar process but this one is the easiest I've found.
Bob Chamberland-
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...> wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
> wrote:
> > Peter or anyone else-
> > Maybe i'm just a dummy, but, how do i get my frames to the correct
> > elevations above the strongback's base timbers?
>
>
>
> Use your plans.Draw your own baseline at a height you feel
> comfortable with.Measure the elevations with your scale ruler.Hint:
> turn the plans upside down and visualize things thus.
>
>
> > I'm trying to set a record today to see if i can ask more questions
> > than anyone ever has in a 24hr. period.
> > Jason
>
>
> Yup,I'm just waitin' fer the questions about fasteners ta begin :-D
>
>
>
>
>
> Peter Lenihan,ex-micro builder and a royal pain in the ass for new
> Micro builders :-)
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...> >
Yesterday I crawled in under the winter cover through the stern
opening and lolled around inside LESTAT for awhile:-) Gee that
opening seems to have shrunk over the winter!
The wind was a-blowing, rocking the hull a bit and the cover was
making noises so that when I closed my eyes, all that was missing was
the sound of the water. I noticed the keelson is indeed a heavy 1X6
with sturdy wooden pads on top of that - running from the forward to
aft bulkhead and the keel has five heavy bolts. It certainly is
reassuring to just look at those bolts.
Not one Quebec spider survived the winter it seems, but there was a
very angry fly buzzing around. Since he may have been a dangerous
Eastern Killer Horsefly I decided it was not safe for the
Saskatchewan environment to release him. He looked big and mean. Sure
enough it took all my strength and fighting skill as a former member
of the Canadian Forces to bring him down finally.
Cheers, Nels
PS I am ex- airforce which explains why the fly almost won:-)
> Peter Lenihan,ex-micro builder and a royal pain in the ass for newPeter,
> Micro builders :-)
Yesterday I crawled in under the winter cover through the stern
opening and lolled around inside LESTAT for awhile:-) Gee that
opening seems to have shrunk over the winter!
The wind was a-blowing, rocking the hull a bit and the cover was
making noises so that when I closed my eyes, all that was missing was
the sound of the water. I noticed the keelson is indeed a heavy 1X6
with sturdy wooden pads on top of that - running from the forward to
aft bulkhead and the keel has five heavy bolts. It certainly is
reassuring to just look at those bolts.
Not one Quebec spider survived the winter it seems, but there was a
very angry fly buzzing around. Since he may have been a dangerous
Eastern Killer Horsefly I decided it was not safe for the
Saskatchewan environment to release him. He looked big and mean. Sure
enough it took all my strength and fighting skill as a former member
of the Canadian Forces to bring him down finally.
Cheers, Nels
PS I am ex- airforce which explains why the fly almost won:-)
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
Peter will likely respond but I want to add that I plan to follow the
directions at that website you mention. I sent Andrew Pryor an email
but it came back, so Andrew - if you are out there - I want to get in
contact with you!
Here is how I would do it:
1. First of all you have to get your strongback perfectly level in
all planes, and Andrew shows how - either with shims or adjustable
bolts.
2. Then install your biggest bulkhead and level it and make sure it
is absolutely vertical and a right angles to the strongback
centerline. Building a flat-bottomed boat is really an advantage here!
Then you have to install a taughtline dead level down the centerline
of the keel location and just kissing the centerline of that
bulkhead. Or perhaps an inch above.
The remaining bulkheads are located from the elevattions on the plan
sheet that gives you the expanded topsides panel dimensions. Having a
boat with no flare is also an advantage! Don't forget to add the inch
if you did earlier! Also check diagonal measurements between the
bulkheads. You should get exactly the same measurement on both
diagonals.
Then run a fairing stick down the keel line center to make sure it is
a sweet and fair line.
Do the same with the chine logs and make sure they are level in
relationship from port to starboard.
I have a notion to trim the panels the same way as Andrew as I have a
Porter Cable panel trimmer kit. That way you cut the panels oversized
a bit, and install them permanentely then trim them flush afterwards.
I would never use oak in boatbuilding. It is simply to hard to rip
using light handtools in my opinion. Fir, pine and even cedar have
all worked for me.
I like sealing bright work with epoxy and then uv varnish over top.
But the less brightwork the better. I love the cetol idea:-)
Cheers, Nels
wrote:
> Peter or anyone else-Hi Jason,
> Maybe i'm just a dummy, but, how do i get my frames to the correct
> elevations above the strongback's base timbers?
Peter will likely respond but I want to add that I plan to follow the
directions at that website you mention. I sent Andrew Pryor an email
but it came back, so Andrew - if you are out there - I want to get in
contact with you!
Here is how I would do it:
1. First of all you have to get your strongback perfectly level in
all planes, and Andrew shows how - either with shims or adjustable
bolts.
2. Then install your biggest bulkhead and level it and make sure it
is absolutely vertical and a right angles to the strongback
centerline. Building a flat-bottomed boat is really an advantage here!
Then you have to install a taughtline dead level down the centerline
of the keel location and just kissing the centerline of that
bulkhead. Or perhaps an inch above.
The remaining bulkheads are located from the elevattions on the plan
sheet that gives you the expanded topsides panel dimensions. Having a
boat with no flare is also an advantage! Don't forget to add the inch
if you did earlier! Also check diagonal measurements between the
bulkheads. You should get exactly the same measurement on both
diagonals.
Then run a fairing stick down the keel line center to make sure it is
a sweet and fair line.
Do the same with the chine logs and make sure they are level in
relationship from port to starboard.
I have a notion to trim the panels the same way as Andrew as I have a
Porter Cable panel trimmer kit. That way you cut the panels oversized
a bit, and install them permanentely then trim them flush afterwards.
I would never use oak in boatbuilding. It is simply to hard to rip
using light handtools in my opinion. Fir, pine and even cedar have
all worked for me.
I like sealing bright work with epoxy and then uv varnish over top.
But the less brightwork the better. I love the cetol idea:-)
Cheers, Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
comfortable with.Measure the elevations with your scale ruler.Hint:
turn the plans upside down and visualize things thus.
Peter Lenihan,ex-micro builder and a royal pain in the ass for new
Micro builders :-)
wrote:
> Peter or anyone else-Use your plans.Draw your own baseline at a height you feel
> Maybe i'm just a dummy, but, how do i get my frames to the correct
> elevations above the strongback's base timbers?
comfortable with.Measure the elevations with your scale ruler.Hint:
turn the plans upside down and visualize things thus.
> I'm trying to set a record today to see if i can ask more questionsYup,I'm just waitin' fer the questions about fasteners ta begin :-D
> than anyone ever has in a 24hr. period.
> Jason
Peter Lenihan,ex-micro builder and a royal pain in the ass for new
Micro builders :-)
Peter or anyone else-
Maybe i'm just a dummy, but, how do i get my frames to the correct
elevations above the strongback's base timbers?
I'm staring at the offsets trying to interpret bulkhead locations
from the base line.....or is it from the true shape?...i'm thinking
base line as the boat will be 3d on the strongback not flat.
Help...this is hurting my brain :)
I'm trying to set a record today to see if i can ask more questions
than anyone ever has in a 24hr. period.
Jason
Maybe i'm just a dummy, but, how do i get my frames to the correct
elevations above the strongback's base timbers?
I'm staring at the offsets trying to interpret bulkhead locations
from the base line.....or is it from the true shape?...i'm thinking
base line as the boat will be 3d on the strongback not flat.
Help...this is hurting my brain :)
I'm trying to set a record today to see if i can ask more questions
than anyone ever has in a 24hr. period.
Jason
> For the solo builder,a strongback is worth at least two other setsof
> arms and its weight in gold.A few of its advantages are: it allowsthe
> the solo builder to carefully aligne his work before permanent
> installment,provides a steady platform on which to mount/assemble
> his"box" while keeping it perfectly true(it is all too easy,with a
> box, to build in some twist otherwise!),is good practice,allows
> solo builder to work at a more leisurely pace thus avoiding(wehope!)
> any errors from rushing a critical part etc........and
> The expansions given for the side panels of the Micro are
> tried,proven and accurate.If you doubt your ability to accurately
> trace out a curve described by the measurements provided,go back
> measure them again and allow yourself a 1/4" marginfor"error".After
> cutting out the side panels,offer them up to your strongbackout"exact"
> supported bulkheads,temporarily fasten with screws,trace
> shape with pencil,remove side panels and cut to the line.Offer upwithout
> side panels one more time,check to see that all is sweet and
> fair,remove,add epoxy,re-install panels using your original screws
> holes as guides for perfect repostioning of the side panels
> fear of a lot of slipping and sliding around :-)
> Later on,when hull has been righted,wheels can be added to your
> strong back and permit you to roll the hull in,out and around your
> garage.
>
>
> Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
arms and its weight in gold.A few of its advantages are: it allows
the solo builder to carefully aligne his work before permanent
installment,provides a steady platform on which to mount/assemble
his"box" while keeping it perfectly true(it is all too easy,with a
box, to build in some twist otherwise!),is good practice,allows the
solo builder to work at a more leisurely pace thus avoiding(we hope!)
any errors from rushing a critical part etc........
The expansions given for the side panels of the Micro are
tried,proven and accurate.If you doubt your ability to accurately
trace out a curve described by the measurements provided,go back and
measure them again and allow yourself a 1/4" margin for"error".After
cutting out the side panels,offer them up to your strongback
supported bulkheads,temporarily fasten with screws,trace out"exact"
shape with pencil,remove side panels and cut to the line.Offer up
side panels one more time,check to see that all is sweet and
fair,remove,add epoxy,re-install panels using your original screws
holes as guides for perfect repostioning of the side panels without
fear of a lot of slipping and sliding around :-)
Later on,when hull has been righted,wheels can be added to your
strong back and permit you to roll the hull in,out and around your
garage.
Peter Lenihan
wrote:
> Trying to figure out how to manhandle this micro thing around in myFor the solo builder,a strongback is worth at least two other sets of
> tight garage and saw this page:
>
>http://members.austar.net.au/~rivalduke/id28.htm
>
> The guy built his long micro on a strongback attached the chines to
> the bulkheads attached rough cut side panels and then just ran a
> router down the chine log to perfectly trim the side panels.....no
> lofting required for the sides or bottom.
> Would it be more trouble than it's worth?
>
> Jason Stancil
arms and its weight in gold.A few of its advantages are: it allows
the solo builder to carefully aligne his work before permanent
installment,provides a steady platform on which to mount/assemble
his"box" while keeping it perfectly true(it is all too easy,with a
box, to build in some twist otherwise!),is good practice,allows the
solo builder to work at a more leisurely pace thus avoiding(we hope!)
any errors from rushing a critical part etc........
The expansions given for the side panels of the Micro are
tried,proven and accurate.If you doubt your ability to accurately
trace out a curve described by the measurements provided,go back and
measure them again and allow yourself a 1/4" margin for"error".After
cutting out the side panels,offer them up to your strongback
supported bulkheads,temporarily fasten with screws,trace out"exact"
shape with pencil,remove side panels and cut to the line.Offer up
side panels one more time,check to see that all is sweet and
fair,remove,add epoxy,re-install panels using your original screws
holes as guides for perfect repostioning of the side panels without
fear of a lot of slipping and sliding around :-)
Later on,when hull has been righted,wheels can be added to your
strong back and permit you to roll the hull in,out and around your
garage.
Peter Lenihan
Trying to figure out how to manhandle this micro thing around in my
tight garage and saw this page:
http://members.austar.net.au/~rivalduke/id28.htm
The guy built his long micro on a strongback attached the chines to
the bulkheads attached rough cut side panels and then just ran a
router down the chine log to perfectly trim the side panels.....no
lofting required for the sides or bottom.
Would it be more trouble than it's worth?
Jason Stancil
tight garage and saw this page:
http://members.austar.net.au/~rivalduke/id28.htm
The guy built his long micro on a strongback attached the chines to
the bulkheads attached rough cut side panels and then just ran a
router down the chine log to perfectly trim the side panels.....no
lofting required for the sides or bottom.
Would it be more trouble than it's worth?
Jason Stancil