Re: scarfing micro's side panels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
assembled butt blocked panels curve nicely. In extreme bends, you
can get flat spots, but that isn't going to be solved by a half
Payson, since you retain the butt block inside. If you literaly did
as you suggest and run a power plane down the seam, you would get a
trench without transition for the wood fiber, and would essentialy be
cutting through the fibers that provide continuity. Not sure how
that would be an improvement over the existing butt block.
Real scarphs are a great joint, though not required here. They
aren't always as perfect as imagined since they can created alignment
problems, panel length problems, and sometimes the butt block is a
needed piece of structure.
wrote:
> The side panels are lofted and cut out, but i still haven't scarfedoozing
> them.....i have the but straps cut and ready to glue and nail into
> place.....but i'm thinking after i do i'll flip the panel run the
> power plan down the outside seam and lay a piece of fiberglass tape
> into the recess. Overkill? I want this hull as fair as possible
> should i just leave it with the butt strap and a bit of epoxy
> between the two panels?....will wax paper peel away from the curedYou're not likely to increase the fairness this way. Properly
> epoxy or will it try to bond?
> 3d by monday or bust!
> Thanks,
> Jason
assembled butt blocked panels curve nicely. In extreme bends, you
can get flat spots, but that isn't going to be solved by a half
Payson, since you retain the butt block inside. If you literaly did
as you suggest and run a power plane down the seam, you would get a
trench without transition for the wood fiber, and would essentialy be
cutting through the fibers that provide continuity. Not sure how
that would be an improvement over the existing butt block.
Real scarphs are a great joint, though not required here. They
aren't always as perfect as imagined since they can created alignment
problems, panel length problems, and sometimes the butt block is a
needed piece of structure.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
I've decided to buttstrap the panels with two layers of 3/8" on the
inside, epoxied and held with SS screws....after the boat is wraped
on the bulkheads and frames, if i can see any gap i'll plane it down
and lay a 4" wide strip of biaxel tape in there.....or maybe some
microballons?
If somebody does'nt like this idea speak up! I'm heading for the
garage to do the deed in one more beer.
Jason
> Your method will work, but I am wondering why all the extra work.I
> built my Micro as described with the butt blocks fastened from thesmooth
> outside with copper clench nails. These nails sink into the ply
> when clinched and therefore were easy to putty over to make a
> exterior surface.Tonight is the night.
I've decided to buttstrap the panels with two layers of 3/8" on the
inside, epoxied and held with SS screws....after the boat is wraped
on the bulkheads and frames, if i can see any gap i'll plane it down
and lay a 4" wide strip of biaxel tape in there.....or maybe some
microballons?
If somebody does'nt like this idea speak up! I'm heading for the
garage to do the deed in one more beer.
Jason
Your method will work, but I am wondering why all the extra work. I
built my Micro as described with the butt blocks fastened from the
outside with copper clench nails. These nails sink into the ply
when clinched and therefore were easy to putty over to make a smooth
exterior surface.
I am sure that your boat will look great whatever manner you choose.
David Jost
"doing a new pointy skiff next week"
built my Micro as described with the butt blocks fastened from the
outside with copper clench nails. These nails sink into the ply
when clinched and therefore were easy to putty over to make a smooth
exterior surface.
I am sure that your boat will look great whatever manner you choose.
David Jost
"doing a new pointy skiff next week"
Jason,
Wax paper works just fine. It releases from epoxy and is easy to handle. The real limitation with it is size; you might do better on larger panels by using sheet plastic.
James
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Wax paper works just fine. It releases from epoxy and is easy to handle. The real limitation with it is size; you might do better on larger panels by using sheet plastic.
James
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jason:
I once built a Tennessee with butt blocks and only epoxy in the "oozing between the two panels", but I had to go back later and tape over the joint, as it had opened a tiny amount. It was no big deal, but water could have got in there and I didn't want that. Since that time, I have started using the "Payson" joint for joining ply panels. At first, I cut a cove in the surface of the plys so that the tape would not make a raised area, but I have found that if you fair over the tape when it is put directly on the surface of the ply, you will not be able to see it later, after the hull is painted. This method is easy, and does not leave that ugly butt block on the inside of the boat.
Chuck
The side panels are lofted and cut out, but i still haven't scarfed
them.....i have the but straps cut and ready to glue and nail into
place.....but i'm thinking after i do i'll flip the panel run the
power plan down the outside seam and lay a piece of fiberglass tape
into the recess. Overkill? I want this hull as fair as possible
should i just leave it with the butt strap and a bit of epoxy oozing
between the two panels?....will wax paper peel away from the cured
epoxy or will it try to bond?
3d by monday or bust!
Thanks,
Jason
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I once built a Tennessee with butt blocks and only epoxy in the "oozing between the two panels", but I had to go back later and tape over the joint, as it had opened a tiny amount. It was no big deal, but water could have got in there and I didn't want that. Since that time, I have started using the "Payson" joint for joining ply panels. At first, I cut a cove in the surface of the plys so that the tape would not make a raised area, but I have found that if you fair over the tape when it is put directly on the surface of the ply, you will not be able to see it later, after the hull is painted. This method is easy, and does not leave that ugly butt block on the inside of the boat.
Chuck
The side panels are lofted and cut out, but i still haven't scarfed
them.....i have the but straps cut and ready to glue and nail into
place.....but i'm thinking after i do i'll flip the panel run the
power plan down the outside seam and lay a piece of fiberglass tape
into the recess. Overkill? I want this hull as fair as possible
should i just leave it with the butt strap and a bit of epoxy oozing
between the two panels?....will wax paper peel away from the cured
epoxy or will it try to bond?
3d by monday or bust!
Thanks,
Jason
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote: "after i do i'll flip the panel run the power plan down the
outside seam and lay a piece of fiberglass tape into the recess."
That's what I did on the exterior of my Micro (pics at
http:www.brucesboats.com and it came out very fair.
I worked on top of plastic sheets and had zero sticking and a smooth
finish to boot. Split open garbage bags would work as well.
Bruce Hector
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KingstonMessabout/
wrote: "after i do i'll flip the panel run the power plan down the
outside seam and lay a piece of fiberglass tape into the recess."
That's what I did on the exterior of my Micro (pics at
http:www.brucesboats.com and it came out very fair.
I worked on top of plastic sheets and had zero sticking and a smooth
finish to boot. Split open garbage bags would work as well.
Bruce Hector
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KingstonMessabout/
PS...thanks peter, for steering me towards the high gread MDO
(olympic panel's signal 3/8" 5 ply). Sooooo smooth and cuts
beautifully. I have not found a single void in any of the veneers so
far.
Jason Stancil
(olympic panel's signal 3/8" 5 ply). Sooooo smooth and cuts
beautifully. I have not found a single void in any of the veneers so
far.
Jason Stancil
The side panels are lofted and cut out, but i still haven't scarfed
them.....i have the but straps cut and ready to glue and nail into
place.....but i'm thinking after i do i'll flip the panel run the
power plan down the outside seam and lay a piece of fiberglass tape
into the recess. Overkill? I want this hull as fair as possible
should i just leave it with the butt strap and a bit of epoxy oozing
between the two panels?....will wax paper peel away from the cured
epoxy or will it try to bond?
3d by monday or bust!
Thanks,
Jason
them.....i have the but straps cut and ready to glue and nail into
place.....but i'm thinking after i do i'll flip the panel run the
power plan down the outside seam and lay a piece of fiberglass tape
into the recess. Overkill? I want this hull as fair as possible
should i just leave it with the butt strap and a bit of epoxy oozing
between the two panels?....will wax paper peel away from the cured
epoxy or will it try to bond?
3d by monday or bust!
Thanks,
Jason