Re: any reason to glass?
This is good advice. I suspect the boat will be lighter because I
won't be using it to sail, so I won't be putting in the centreboard
trunk and centreboard, for instance.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor"
<proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
won't be using it to sail, so I won't be putting in the centreboard
trunk and centreboard, for instance.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor"
<proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> With meranti you shouldn't experience much checking anyway, it isplans
> supposed to be marine grade and suitable for imersion.
>
> That design is a real heavy little boat. Weight has vertain
> advantages, and if you buiklt her much lighter you might want to
> consider a complete redesign. For instance a boat build in cedar
> strip with curves could be built very much lighter, and many
> dimensions could be changed to optimize rowing sailing or both.
>
> A novel idea is to follow the instructions that came with the
> (assuming they are complete). If he calls for a certain species oflike
> ply, and certain glass scantlings, it's always possible as a last
> resort to follow the instructions.
>
> In my experience if you need glass to hold chines together, the
> overwrap of the boatcloth isn't enough.
>
> Of course it's perfectly legitimate to make whatever changes you
> also. For instance if the boat is to serve as a dinning roomtable
> then you could use minimal paint and so forth. If yo want to useit
> as a working fishing boat, then some more serious sheathing likesay
> dynel would be a good idea. Chines usualy require several layersof
> tape to get a professional job. @-3 inside and out in narrowingmay
> strips is the proven ticket (you have interior chine logs so that
> part is covered). One can get by on the over the knee test with
> light cloth, but it doesn't hold up to hard use (which of course
> not be required). 4-6 over everything eliminates a lot ofI
> maintenance.
>
> I have a dingy that has been sitting in the weather for 7 years.
> glassed every part inside and out excluding the interior sides andover
> the front and back transomes. Of course those areas and the
> unglassed skeg are the only ones requiring attention. I painted
> the glass in latex, and that has held up pretty well. I may mixthe
> latex with a bonding agent when I recoat. I guess I could havethe
> gotten by with paint only if I had indoor storage, though given
> fact I needed glass on the chines it wasn't worth the few hours I
> would have saved not to have glassed the whole thing.
Why not just paint? I don't think the epoxy would stop any checking.
White latex housepaint can hold up well. If you want to use 1/4" ply,
you can probably find designs that use it from Michalak or Bolger. If
you're using 3/8", and weight isn't absolutely critical, perhaps you
should use MDO, which is almost like glassed anyway. (See archives for
continual discussion of MDO)
White latex housepaint can hold up well. If you want to use 1/4" ply,
you can probably find designs that use it from Michalak or Bolger. If
you're using 3/8", and weight isn't absolutely critical, perhaps you
should use MDO, which is almost like glassed anyway. (See archives for
continual discussion of MDO)
>MPierre wrote:
>
>I am building a rowboat (A Chesapeake Marine Design Bay SKiff 15).
>Although the plan calls for 3/8 ply, I was planning on using 1/4
>inch and glassing it. The designer, however, says that the 1/4 inch
>will be too flexible, not stiff enough, since he originally tried
>the same thing.
>
>So I will use the 3/8 inch ply. Is there any reason to glass the
>boat? Or would 3 coats of epoxy do the job?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Pierre
>
With meranti you shouldn't experience much checking anyway, it is
supposed to be marine grade and suitable for imersion.
That design is a real heavy little boat. Weight has vertain
advantages, and if you buiklt her much lighter you might want to
consider a complete redesign. For instance a boat build in cedar
strip with curves could be built very much lighter, and many
dimensions could be changed to optimize rowing sailing or both.
A novel idea is to follow the instructions that came with the plans
(assuming they are complete). If he calls for a certain species of
ply, and certain glass scantlings, it's always possible as a last
resort to follow the instructions.
In my experience if you need glass to hold chines together, the
overwrap of the boatcloth isn't enough.
Of course it's perfectly legitimate to make whatever changes you like
also. For instance if the boat is to serve as a dinning room table
then you could use minimal paint and so forth. If yo want to use it
as a working fishing boat, then some more serious sheathing like say
dynel would be a good idea. Chines usualy require several layers of
tape to get a professional job. @-3 inside and out in narrowing
strips is the proven ticket (you have interior chine logs so that
part is covered). One can get by on the over the knee test with
light cloth, but it doesn't hold up to hard use (which of course may
not be required). 4-6 over everything eliminates a lot of
maintenance.
I have a dingy that has been sitting in the weather for 7 years. I
glassed every part inside and out excluding the interior sides and
the front and back transomes. Of course those areas and the
unglassed skeg are the only ones requiring attention. I painted over
the glass in latex, and that has held up pretty well. I may mix the
latex with a bonding agent when I recoat. I guess I could have
gotten by with paint only if I had indoor storage, though given the
fact I needed glass on the chines it wasn't worth the few hours I
would have saved not to have glassed the whole thing.
supposed to be marine grade and suitable for imersion.
That design is a real heavy little boat. Weight has vertain
advantages, and if you buiklt her much lighter you might want to
consider a complete redesign. For instance a boat build in cedar
strip with curves could be built very much lighter, and many
dimensions could be changed to optimize rowing sailing or both.
A novel idea is to follow the instructions that came with the plans
(assuming they are complete). If he calls for a certain species of
ply, and certain glass scantlings, it's always possible as a last
resort to follow the instructions.
In my experience if you need glass to hold chines together, the
overwrap of the boatcloth isn't enough.
Of course it's perfectly legitimate to make whatever changes you like
also. For instance if the boat is to serve as a dinning room table
then you could use minimal paint and so forth. If yo want to use it
as a working fishing boat, then some more serious sheathing like say
dynel would be a good idea. Chines usualy require several layers of
tape to get a professional job. @-3 inside and out in narrowing
strips is the proven ticket (you have interior chine logs so that
part is covered). One can get by on the over the knee test with
light cloth, but it doesn't hold up to hard use (which of course may
not be required). 4-6 over everything eliminates a lot of
maintenance.
I have a dingy that has been sitting in the weather for 7 years. I
glassed every part inside and out excluding the interior sides and
the front and back transomes. Of course those areas and the
unglassed skeg are the only ones requiring attention. I painted over
the glass in latex, and that has held up pretty well. I may mix the
latex with a bonding agent when I recoat. I guess I could have
gotten by with paint only if I had indoor storage, though given the
fact I needed glass on the chines it wasn't worth the few hours I
would have saved not to have glassed the whole thing.
Thanks. That's good advice, to glass the bottom against abrasion -
possibly also the floor? where people will be stepping?
I am planning on using meranti mahogany - phillipine...
Any comments?
Thanks.
Pierre
possibly also the floor? where people will be stepping?
I am planning on using meranti mahogany - phillipine...
Any comments?
Thanks.
Pierre
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, cha62759@t... wrote:
> If you are using fir plywood you will need to glass if you want to
> control the checking.Otherwise use epoxy for glue, glass the
bottom to
> protect against abrasion and paint. One coat of epoxy as a sealer
> makes a nice paint job but it's not pleasant to sand. Another
point of
> view (which I don't necessarily subscribe too) says epoxy is a
waste
> except for glue and glassing. 3 coats of epoxy wont do the same
thing
> as glassing.
> Bob Chamberland
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Pierre" <myvoj@y...> wrote:
> > I am building a rowboat (A Chesapeake Marine Design Bay SKiff
15).
> > Although the plan calls for 3/8 ply, I was planning on using 1/4
> > inch and glassing it. The designer, however, says that the 1/4
inch
> > will be too flexible, not stiff enough, since he originally
tried
> > the same thing.
> >
> > So I will use the 3/8 inch ply. Is there any reason to glass the
> > boat? Or would 3 coats of epoxy do the job?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Pierre
If you are using fir plywood you will need to glass if you want to
control the checking.Otherwise use epoxy for glue, glass the bottom to
protect against abrasion and paint. One coat of epoxy as a sealer
makes a nice paint job but it's not pleasant to sand. Another point of
view (which I don't necessarily subscribe too) says epoxy is a waste
except for glue and glassing. 3 coats of epoxy wont do the same thing
as glassing.
Bob Chamberland
control the checking.Otherwise use epoxy for glue, glass the bottom to
protect against abrasion and paint. One coat of epoxy as a sealer
makes a nice paint job but it's not pleasant to sand. Another point of
view (which I don't necessarily subscribe too) says epoxy is a waste
except for glue and glassing. 3 coats of epoxy wont do the same thing
as glassing.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Pierre" <myvoj@y...> wrote:
> I am building a rowboat (A Chesapeake Marine Design Bay SKiff 15).
> Although the plan calls for 3/8 ply, I was planning on using 1/4
> inch and glassing it. The designer, however, says that the 1/4 inch
> will be too flexible, not stiff enough, since he originally tried
> the same thing.
>
> So I will use the 3/8 inch ply. Is there any reason to glass the
> boat? Or would 3 coats of epoxy do the job?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Pierre
My impression is that the glass is to protect the epoxy so that sharp things
don't penetrate and let water get thru. I'd put a layer on the bottom and
tapes along the chines as a minimum; or, if you're doing both the bottom and
sides, the natural doubling at the chines would make the tapes unnecessary.
Glass won't really make plywood much stiffer since stiff is from thickness
and you're not adding much of that.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
don't penetrate and let water get thru. I'd put a layer on the bottom and
tapes along the chines as a minimum; or, if you're doing both the bottom and
sides, the natural doubling at the chines would make the tapes unnecessary.
Glass won't really make plywood much stiffer since stiff is from thickness
and you're not adding much of that.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pierre" <myvoj@...>
> I am building a rowboat (A Chesapeake Marine Design Bay SKiff 15).
> Although the plan calls for 3/8 ply, I was planning on using 1/4
> inch and glassing it. The designer, however, says that the 1/4 inch
> will be too flexible, not stiff enough, since he originally tried
> the same thing.
>
> So I will use the 3/8 inch ply. Is there any reason to glass the
> boat? Or would 3 coats of epoxy do the job?
I am building a rowboat (A Chesapeake Marine Design Bay SKiff 15).
Although the plan calls for 3/8 ply, I was planning on using 1/4
inch and glassing it. The designer, however, says that the 1/4 inch
will be too flexible, not stiff enough, since he originally tried
the same thing.
So I will use the 3/8 inch ply. Is there any reason to glass the
boat? Or would 3 coats of epoxy do the job?
Thanks.
Pierre
Although the plan calls for 3/8 ply, I was planning on using 1/4
inch and glassing it. The designer, however, says that the 1/4 inch
will be too flexible, not stiff enough, since he originally tried
the same thing.
So I will use the 3/8 inch ply. Is there any reason to glass the
boat? Or would 3 coats of epoxy do the job?
Thanks.
Pierre