Re: sealed floatation chambers and rot?
Jason, if you properly seal all the inside surfaces of your chambers
with epoxy, it is hard to see how you could have a rot problem.
My Elegant Punt had a full length seat as per plan, but with sides
down to the bottom, for permanent sealed floatation. This boat until
it 'disappeared', sat outside in all weather without shelter for 10
years. Never had any problem with the chamber.
Oink has 3 air chambers, 2 at the stern, one at the bow.
I have also owned several small racing boats with covers as you
describe. There is no reason for these if you don't want to use the
space in my opinion. I have never known them to leak.
People who advocate large blocks of polystyrene for floatation, must
also remember that you need a large hole to get them in and out too!
A boat with permanent ply chambers will be structurally a lot
stronger.
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
with epoxy, it is hard to see how you could have a rot problem.
My Elegant Punt had a full length seat as per plan, but with sides
down to the bottom, for permanent sealed floatation. This boat until
it 'disappeared', sat outside in all weather without shelter for 10
years. Never had any problem with the chamber.
Oink has 3 air chambers, 2 at the stern, one at the bow.
I have also owned several small racing boats with covers as you
describe. There is no reason for these if you don't want to use the
space in my opinion. I have never known them to leak.
People who advocate large blocks of polystyrene for floatation, must
also remember that you need a large hole to get them in and out too!
A boat with permanent ply chambers will be structurally a lot
stronger.
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> I was measuring some ply to figure how to build in the floatationtype
> chambers in the bow and stern wells of my micro navigator. I got to
> thinking about rot and i'm kinda nervious about just sealing up a
> block of foam inside a wood box that sits in the middle of a
> flooding well. What do folks think about putting a little bomar
> hatch on these 4 compartments. I would feel better being able toand
> vent these areas every now and again. But i also wonder if those
> hatches would actually allow more water in through drips and leaks.
> I plan on putting a couple of coats of epoxy on all the surfaces
> edges of the floatation chambers(inside and out)......should i beat
> all worried about rot?
>
> Thanks
> Jason
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
problem by not installing any floatation:-) Since Lestat has a lot
more wood than the original plans it also has a lot more floatation.
I plan to add some under the coach roof, between the beams and under
the top of the hold. This will serve double duty as insulation and
condensation prevention as well.
Also I plan to carry a foam or inflatable mattress in the cargo hold
which can be moved into the main cabin at night if I want a double
bed for any reason. Foam for cold weather, inflatable for warm.
Perhaps if you are undecided on this, contact the boss at PCB&F.
Cheers, Nels
wrote:
> I plan on putting a couple of coats of epoxy on all the surfacesand
> edges of the floatation chambers(inside and out)......should i beat
> all worried about rot?Peter Lenihan and several other builders, avoided this potential
>
> Thanks
> Jason
problem by not installing any floatation:-) Since Lestat has a lot
more wood than the original plans it also has a lot more floatation.
I plan to add some under the coach roof, between the beams and under
the top of the hold. This will serve double duty as insulation and
condensation prevention as well.
Also I plan to carry a foam or inflatable mattress in the cargo hold
which can be moved into the main cabin at night if I want a double
bed for any reason. Foam for cold weather, inflatable for warm.
Perhaps if you are undecided on this, contact the boss at PCB&F.
Cheers, Nels
Jason,
When I built my Gypsy and my Chebacco I incorporated watertight
flotation compartments with Bomar hatches for access and inspection.
I did not put any foam in the compartments figuring the whole boat
would have to come apart before all the compartments would fill with
water. On the Gypsy I used round pressed-in hatches that were quite
satisfactory. The Chebacco has hinged hatches, two of which have
failed, the hinges breaking. I would probably use better quality if I
had it to do over again.
Paul
When I built my Gypsy and my Chebacco I incorporated watertight
flotation compartments with Bomar hatches for access and inspection.
I did not put any foam in the compartments figuring the whole boat
would have to come apart before all the compartments would fill with
water. On the Gypsy I used round pressed-in hatches that were quite
satisfactory. The Chebacco has hinged hatches, two of which have
failed, the hinges breaking. I would probably use better quality if I
had it to do over again.
Paul
I'm not familiar with where these chambers are or if they are exposed
to outside "wash". Assuming they are not exposed why seal them up at
all. All you need is to hold the foam in place. If you have an
essentially sealed chamber with an inspection hatch that you peek into
once in a while you haven't solved anything. Decay can very easily
commence between "peeks". Seal your chambers from outside and leave as
much open on the inside so that air circulates. Just make sure that
the wood is well protected especially end grain. Everybody knows the
mantra "agreeable temperature, water vapor, oxygen" are needed for
decay organisms. You can't do much about the temperature but a sealed
chamber encourage the optimum temp for rot, water vapor will pass
through epoxy but not at all readily and air molecules cannot.
Bob Chamberland
to outside "wash". Assuming they are not exposed why seal them up at
all. All you need is to hold the foam in place. If you have an
essentially sealed chamber with an inspection hatch that you peek into
once in a while you haven't solved anything. Decay can very easily
commence between "peeks". Seal your chambers from outside and leave as
much open on the inside so that air circulates. Just make sure that
the wood is well protected especially end grain. Everybody knows the
mantra "agreeable temperature, water vapor, oxygen" are needed for
decay organisms. You can't do much about the temperature but a sealed
chamber encourage the optimum temp for rot, water vapor will pass
through epoxy but not at all readily and air molecules cannot.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...> wrote:
> I was measuring some ply to figure how to build in the floatation
> chambers in the bow and stern wells of my micro navigator. I got to
> thinking about rot and i'm kinda nervious about just sealing up a
> block of foam inside a wood box that sits in the middle of a
> flooding well. What do folks think about putting a little bomar type
> hatch on these 4 compartments. I would feel better being able to
> vent these areas every now and again. But i also wonder if those
> hatches would actually allow more water in through drips and leaks.
> I plan on putting a couple of coats of epoxy on all the surfaces and
> edges of the floatation chambers(inside and out)......should i be at
> all worried about rot?
>
> Thanks
> Jason
I was measuring some ply to figure how to build in the floatation
chambers in the bow and stern wells of my micro navigator. I got to
thinking about rot and i'm kinda nervious about just sealing up a
block of foam inside a wood box that sits in the middle of a
flooding well. What do folks think about putting a little bomar type
hatch on these 4 compartments. I would feel better being able to
vent these areas every now and again. But i also wonder if those
hatches would actually allow more water in through drips and leaks.
I plan on putting a couple of coats of epoxy on all the surfaces and
edges of the floatation chambers(inside and out)......should i be at
all worried about rot?
Thanks
Jason
chambers in the bow and stern wells of my micro navigator. I got to
thinking about rot and i'm kinda nervious about just sealing up a
block of foam inside a wood box that sits in the middle of a
flooding well. What do folks think about putting a little bomar type
hatch on these 4 compartments. I would feel better being able to
vent these areas every now and again. But i also wonder if those
hatches would actually allow more water in through drips and leaks.
I plan on putting a couple of coats of epoxy on all the surfaces and
edges of the floatation chambers(inside and out)......should i be at
all worried about rot?
Thanks
Jason