Re: [bolger] Re: HI all, Request for help with lexan window install
Actually, you don't need to heat it at all. It can be bent in a sheet metal
brake. I've also bent some strips in a vise with a hammer after cushioning
the vise jaws and making provision for a moderate bend radius.
Roger
brake. I've also bent some strips in a vise with a hammer after cushioning
the vise jaws and making provision for a moderate bend radius.
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@...>
>
> BTW, if you heat it up enough (considerably hotter than plexi needs to
> do the same thing) you can bend the stuff into some nice shapes.
Lexan is nice stuff, and easy to work if you don't get greedy. If you
use too high of a feed rate, it can melt and grab your blade. Does a
nice job breaking a band saw blade. It's very abusable stuff, unlike
plexi, although I guess it can still scratch. I'd drill the holes
oversize to account for expansion in the heat, plus you don't have to be
as accurate. Don't know the coefficient of thermal expansion, but that's
easy to look up on manufacturer's web site. I really don't like
RTVsilicone very much. I suspect you will never get paint to stick to
anything it touches. If I was doing it, I think I would try to use some
kind of gasket. Maybe straight around the edges with holes inset and
then little gasket washers around the fasteners. Or maybe just another
sort of goo. But although I've played with Lexan, I haven't installed
Lexan windows.
BTW, if you heat it up enough (considerably hotter than plexi needs to
do the same thing) you can bend the stuff into some nice shapes.
use too high of a feed rate, it can melt and grab your blade. Does a
nice job breaking a band saw blade. It's very abusable stuff, unlike
plexi, although I guess it can still scratch. I'd drill the holes
oversize to account for expansion in the heat, plus you don't have to be
as accurate. Don't know the coefficient of thermal expansion, but that's
easy to look up on manufacturer's web site. I really don't like
RTVsilicone very much. I suspect you will never get paint to stick to
anything it touches. If I was doing it, I think I would try to use some
kind of gasket. Maybe straight around the edges with holes inset and
then little gasket washers around the fasteners. Or maybe just another
sort of goo. But although I've played with Lexan, I haven't installed
Lexan windows.
BTW, if you heat it up enough (considerably hotter than plexi needs to
do the same thing) you can bend the stuff into some nice shapes.
>Dave Nolan wrote:
>
>Fan of Bolger though I seldom post here.
>
>I have a Tolman skiff that I just built a t top and windshield for.
>It's a 5/8th plywood frame glassed and epoxied. I have 3/16th Lexan
>for windows. I would like to know the best way to cut and install
>it.
>
>Windows are roughly 18-20 across, by 22 inches high. I plan to
>screw it in and use silicon to seal. Any certain procedures for
>drilling, screwing, or type of special silicone. dDes this sound OK.
>
>Thanks in Advance.
>
>DAve Nolan / Brick NJ (Tolman Skiff builder)
>
I used 3/8" Plexiglas to replace the fixed windows on my boat. Made them
1-1/4" wider than the openings and bolted them on every 2-1/2". Drill the
holes oversize (5/16" for 1/4" fasteners) to allow for differing expansion
rates between cabin and plastic. I took a standard drill and dulled to
cutting edges to keep from digging in.
Cut to size with a saber saw. Radiuses edge with a routers, then belt
sanded edges, then finer sandpaper until I hit 600 grit. Finished polishing
edge with jewelers rouge.
Left protective paper on both sides except for the inside edges where it
would contact the edge of the cabin. Masked off the cabin side with blue
tape, Put window in place and traced around edges. Took window back off and
cut the blue tape away where the window would go.
Sanded the exposed area of the window around the edges where it would mount
to the cabin side with 80 grit. Gave this area two coats of paint matching
the cabin side. Taped off the edges and outside of the window with more blue
tape.
Place fasteners in the holes in the window (1/4'20 pan head SS machine
screws with 1/4" washers). Put 1/8" thick rubber washers on fasteners (get
at Lowe's or HD). Apply plenty of 3M101 or LifeSeal sealant. Screw fasteners
in snuggly but don't over tighten. The rubber washers prevent you from
squeezing out all the sealant, a BAD thing.
Clean up with tongue depressors cut square. Remove tape and then protective
paper. No mess, no fuss.
See www.captnpuley.com for CD of this process.
Also used a "buried Tee-Nut" system, but that's another story
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Member, Boating Writers International
pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
www.smallcraftadvisor.com
www.captnpauley.com
1-1/4" wider than the openings and bolted them on every 2-1/2". Drill the
holes oversize (5/16" for 1/4" fasteners) to allow for differing expansion
rates between cabin and plastic. I took a standard drill and dulled to
cutting edges to keep from digging in.
Cut to size with a saber saw. Radiuses edge with a routers, then belt
sanded edges, then finer sandpaper until I hit 600 grit. Finished polishing
edge with jewelers rouge.
Left protective paper on both sides except for the inside edges where it
would contact the edge of the cabin. Masked off the cabin side with blue
tape, Put window in place and traced around edges. Took window back off and
cut the blue tape away where the window would go.
Sanded the exposed area of the window around the edges where it would mount
to the cabin side with 80 grit. Gave this area two coats of paint matching
the cabin side. Taped off the edges and outside of the window with more blue
tape.
Place fasteners in the holes in the window (1/4'20 pan head SS machine
screws with 1/4" washers). Put 1/8" thick rubber washers on fasteners (get
at Lowe's or HD). Apply plenty of 3M101 or LifeSeal sealant. Screw fasteners
in snuggly but don't over tighten. The rubber washers prevent you from
squeezing out all the sealant, a BAD thing.
Clean up with tongue depressors cut square. Remove tape and then protective
paper. No mess, no fuss.
See www.captnpuley.com for CD of this process.
Also used a "buried Tee-Nut" system, but that's another story
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Member, Boating Writers International
pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
www.smallcraftadvisor.com
www.captnpauley.com
--- widebody22:
Lexan, also known as polycarbonate,
drills and saws easily.
Don't confuse Lexan with the cheaper
acrylic 'Plexiglass' which cracks easily.
I used silicon sealant on my polycarbonate
windows, and it is watertight. I recommend
using lots of masking tape to control the mess
when applying the sealant. I also cut out with
a sissors a hundred thin cardboard 'coving'
tools for working the sealant bead. I used them
for just a few inches each and tossed them away.
I can't say I was totally happy with the results
but the mess could have been *far* worse.
> I have 3/16th Lexan for windows.Be careful of scratching it.
Lexan, also known as polycarbonate,
drills and saws easily.
Don't confuse Lexan with the cheaper
acrylic 'Plexiglass' which cracks easily.
I used silicon sealant on my polycarbonate
windows, and it is watertight. I recommend
using lots of masking tape to control the mess
when applying the sealant. I also cut out with
a sissors a hundred thin cardboard 'coving'
tools for working the sealant bead. I used them
for just a few inches each and tossed them away.
I can't say I was totally happy with the results
but the mess could have been *far* worse.
Lexan you can work pretty much like wood -- saws, hammers, files; but 'ware
heat. (When GE first brought it out they distributed 6" dia. lens shaped
pieces and challenged anyone to break one. Very few winners!)
Lucite (plexiglass) is a very different story -- cracks and shatters if you
look at it cross-eyed.
Roger
mailto:derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
From: "widebody22" <DavidTanya@...>
heat. (When GE first brought it out they distributed 6" dia. lens shaped
pieces and challenged anyone to break one. Very few winners!)
Lucite (plexiglass) is a very different story -- cracks and shatters if you
look at it cross-eyed.
Roger
mailto:derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
From: "widebody22" <DavidTanya@...>
> I have a Tolman skiff that I just built a t top and windshield for.
> It's a 5/8th plywood frame glassed and epoxied. I have 3/16th Lexan
> for windows. I would like to know the best way to cut and install
> it.
>
> Windows are roughly 18-20 across, by 22 inches high. I plan to
> screw it in and use silicon to seal. Any certain procedures for
> drilling, screwing, or type of special silicone. dDes this sound OK.
When i have worked with lexan before i learned the hard way to not
use wood or metal drill bits. You need a bit that does not tap as it
turns......another option the not worth it with as many holes as you
are drilling is to run your drill in reverse with a wood bit, works
in a pinch.
Jason
use wood or metal drill bits. You need a bit that does not tap as it
turns......another option the not worth it with as many holes as you
are drilling is to run your drill in reverse with a wood bit, works
in a pinch.
Jason
Fan of Bolger though I seldom post here.
I have a Tolman skiff that I just built a t top and windshield for.
It's a 5/8th plywood frame glassed and epoxied. I have 3/16th Lexan
for windows. I would like to know the best way to cut and install
it.
Windows are roughly 18-20 across, by 22 inches high. I plan to
screw it in and use silicon to seal. Any certain procedures for
drilling, screwing, or type of special silicone. dDes this sound OK.
Thanks in Advance.
DAve Nolan / Brick NJ (Tolman Skiff builder)
I have a Tolman skiff that I just built a t top and windshield for.
It's a 5/8th plywood frame glassed and epoxied. I have 3/16th Lexan
for windows. I would like to know the best way to cut and install
it.
Windows are roughly 18-20 across, by 22 inches high. I plan to
screw it in and use silicon to seal. Any certain procedures for
drilling, screwing, or type of special silicone. dDes this sound OK.
Thanks in Advance.
DAve Nolan / Brick NJ (Tolman Skiff builder)