Re: Need help, built a submarine!
a Bolger sub, cool idea. (actually cold up here in
Beantown "where's Nomah when we need him?")
Wow...that's a tough one. I doubt it's going to sink that fast.
Bring a bucket. Or, build a wooden hand pump like the one in the
last issue of Woodent Float.
However, if wet feet bother you, I would be tempted to sand off the
paint with an 8" grinder (that's a hoagy for you boys in PA) and
then put on a layer of 6oz glass set in epoxy. I have been tempted
to grind off the chines and convert mine to stitch and glue
posthumously since the first leak appeared in the chine a couple of
years ago, after 15 years it doesn't owe me nothin'. I think that
it might be best to go with interior chines as the exterior ones
really don't save that much labor. That would lend to glassing the
whole thing easily.
Another approach would be to dismantle the bottom entirely, and put
a new one on. Now we are getting labor intensive.
A new Pointy Skiff with lumberyard materials would run about $250
all set up and painted.
We slapped on a fresh coat of hunter green industrial grade latex
paint last week, and hope for our first row Friday. i will update
you on the leaks then. June Bug will be the next vice.
Good Luck
David Jost
Beantown "where's Nomah when we need him?")
Wow...that's a tough one. I doubt it's going to sink that fast.
Bring a bucket. Or, build a wooden hand pump like the one in the
last issue of Woodent Float.
However, if wet feet bother you, I would be tempted to sand off the
paint with an 8" grinder (that's a hoagy for you boys in PA) and
then put on a layer of 6oz glass set in epoxy. I have been tempted
to grind off the chines and convert mine to stitch and glue
posthumously since the first leak appeared in the chine a couple of
years ago, after 15 years it doesn't owe me nothin'. I think that
it might be best to go with interior chines as the exterior ones
really don't save that much labor. That would lend to glassing the
whole thing easily.
Another approach would be to dismantle the bottom entirely, and put
a new one on. Now we are getting labor intensive.
A new Pointy Skiff with lumberyard materials would run about $250
all set up and painted.
We slapped on a fresh coat of hunter green industrial grade latex
paint last week, and hope for our first row Friday. i will update
you on the leaks then. June Bug will be the next vice.
Good Luck
David Jost
I suppose there are probably special carbide blades that eat nails, but
I have at least one carbide blade that has had most of its teeth removed
by nails.So if you're trying this trick be sure to use the right kind of
blade. OTOH, maybe a cheapie would last long enough to do the job.
Sounds like a great way to do it.
I have at least one carbide blade that has had most of its teeth removed
by nails.So if you're trying this trick be sure to use the right kind of
blade. OTOH, maybe a cheapie would last long enough to do the job.
Sounds like a great way to do it.
>Roger Derby wrote:
>Carbide tip saw blades go right thru nails. Put a cheap one in your
>circular saw. Set the width for 3/8" and the depth to the chine log molding
>and cut the bottom loose. Messy but quick. Compensate for bobbles with
>filled epoxy or bedding compound.
>
>Roger
>derbyrm@...
>derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
>
--- Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
and would expect that one $8 carbide blade
would get you all away around the
bottom, going slow. Then you would throw away
the ruined blade. Next time, use silicon
bronze nails like Dynamite does, they
saw much easier.
Wear eye protection!
> I suppose there are probablyI have done this kind of thing before
> special carbide blades that eat nails
and would expect that one $8 carbide blade
would get you all away around the
bottom, going slow. Then you would throw away
the ruined blade. Next time, use silicon
bronze nails like Dynamite does, they
saw much easier.
Wear eye protection!
http://www.rqriley.com/plans.html45 bucks us$ for plans of that
particular beastie, it's a nice start, but not a real submarine.
Bruce Hector wrote:
http://www.skaar.101main.net
http://www.PetitionOnline.com/spcdvd/
http://www.petitiononline.com/impjapan/petition-sign.html?
moderator ofwildsteam@yahoogroups.com
DOM and proud!!!
particular beastie, it's a nice start, but not a real submarine.
Bruce Hector wrote:
> Peter,--
>
> I do actually have plans for a submarine....
>
> It's the set from Popular Mechanics via Riley Projects with pontoons
> that stay on the surface with the batteries and air pumps while the
> passenger pod "dives" to a max depth of about 6 feet. Cool.
>
> Anyone want them?
http://www.skaar.101main.net
http://www.PetitionOnline.com/spcdvd/
http://www.petitiononline.com/impjapan/petition-sign.html?
moderator ofwildsteam@yahoogroups.com
DOM and proud!!!
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...>
wrote: "awefully tempted to invoke the assistance of Le Baron
I do actually have plans for a submarine....
It's the set from Popular Mechanics via Riley Projects with pontoons
that stay on the surface with the batteries and air pumps while the
passenger pod "dives" to a max depth of about 6 feet. Cool.
Anyone want them?
Bruce Hector
Nursing a cold fitfor an Irishman over a big bottle of brabdy mixed
with Buckley's Cough Syrup, yum......!
wrote: "awefully tempted to invoke the assistance of Le Baron
> de Kingston,aka Bad Boy Bruce, for his ultimate three sheets to thePeter,
> wind,guns to go and dam the torpedoes approach to small boat
> building/rescuing,from along the shores of the St.Lawrence.......
I do actually have plans for a submarine....
It's the set from Popular Mechanics via Riley Projects with pontoons
that stay on the surface with the batteries and air pumps while the
passenger pod "dives" to a max depth of about 6 feet. Cool.
Anyone want them?
Bruce Hector
Nursing a cold fitfor an Irishman over a big bottle of brabdy mixed
with Buckley's Cough Syrup, yum......!
Did you store it upright and get some water (or snow) in it? I managed
to trash a very nice boat that way. The thawing and freezing can do a
number on the wood. Or maybe it's not really exterior ply. If it turns
out that the glue in the plywood is ok, mabye you can just glass?
BTW, you may find that after an hour or so the leaks are much less,
though I don't know how this works out long term.
to trash a very nice boat that way. The thawing and freezing can do a
number on the wood. Or maybe it's not really exterior ply. If it turns
out that the glue in the plywood is ok, mabye you can just glass?
BTW, you may find that after an hour or so the leaks are much less,
though I don't know how this works out long term.
>Randy Beach wrote:
>
>I finished a pointy skiff last summer and it worked great but this
>year I have notice all kinds of cracks along the bottom. When I
>place it in the water I have leaks coming up through the wood. I
>used exterior 3/8 fir plywood and finished the bottom with a sealer
>and and flat exterior white paint. Should I cut off the bottom and
>build in a new one, lay another piece of 1/4 marine grade ply over
>old bottom and glass the whole bottom and go up the sides a bit
>(should have done that to begin with)? Any Idea's would be great. I
>am sure that it is the Fir plywood that is the problem and not over
>stressing but I was not able to find a source of any other marine
>plywood in Anchorage Alaska.
>
>Randy
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...>
wrote:
more of a concern in Georgia than north of 60. But the freeze/thaw
cycle will be very hard on wet plywood, especially any fresh water
left in the bilges.
However with the 24 hour sunshine, it should be quite simple to get
it all dried out before the repairs are done. Then if the bottom is
glassed and the boat stored upside down - it should be fine.
Cheers, Nels
wrote:
> But then Anchorage may have some peculiar weather patterns thatand
> only a fellow steeped in meteorology,like Nels, would know about
> John Bells' suggestion may be best........? I still think we needI've never been to Alaska, but I would suggest that rot would be much
> David Josts' words of experience to tell the final tale :-)
>
more of a concern in Georgia than north of 60. But the freeze/thaw
cycle will be very hard on wet plywood, especially any fresh water
left in the bilges.
However with the 24 hour sunshine, it should be quite simple to get
it all dried out before the repairs are done. Then if the bottom is
glassed and the boat stored upside down - it should be fine.
Cheers, Nels
Carbide tip saw blades go right thru nails. Put a cheap one in your
circular saw. Set the width for 3/8" and the depth to the chine log molding
and cut the bottom loose. Messy but quick. Compensate for bobbles with
filled epoxy or bedding compound.
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
circular saw. Set the width for 3/8" and the depth to the chine log molding
and cut the bottom loose. Messy but quick. Compensate for bobbles with
filled epoxy or bedding compound.
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...>
<snip>
> If it is not too much trouble to simply remove the
> bottom plywood,that is,you did not use ring nails into the chine
> logs, then certainly the best route would be to start with fresh dry
> bottom plywood.Perhaps some MDO :-) or 1/2"BC Fir followed by a layer
> of glass(10oz.).This does not have to cover the sides of the hull but
> bringing it up to at least over-lap the chine would be nice.
> If ring nails were used to secure the bottom plywood and you
> wish to preserve the chine logs then cut out the bottom ply along the
> inside profile of the side panels.This will leave you with a 3/8"
> layer of ply over your chine logs. Use a right angle grinder with say
> a 45 weight aluminium oxide paper to quickly sand off the remaining
> plywood and nails.Wear eye protection.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John Bell" <smallboatdesigner@m...>
wrote:
Careful with taking on the cavalier stance of John Bell from
the glorious sunny state of Georgia,which knows no bitter cold
freezing temperatures like up in Alaska :-) That water soaked 3/8"
ply is just going to keep falling apart after each freeze up and
result in the fiberglass becoming"un-glued". Of course,a sponge too
is a workable bandage stopgap for your problem but it will only delay
the sad day when you finally put your foot right through the rotted
out soft plywood bottom.Don't know how warm you'll feel while singing
Georgia On My Mind from the top of your lungs as your toes go blue....
But then Anchorage may have some peculiar weather patterns that
only a fellow steeped in meteorology,like Nels, would know about and
John Bells' suggestion may be best........? I still think we need
David Josts' words of experience to tell the final tale :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,awefully tempted to invoke the assistance of Le Baron
de Kingston,aka Bad Boy Bruce, for his ultimate three sheets to the
wind,guns to go and dam the torpedoes approach to small boat
building/rescuing,from along the shores of the St.Lawrence.......
wrote:
> My Windsprint would leak a bit through the checks in her 1/4" firbottom.
> After a while in the water the wood would swell enough and leakswould stop.
>layer of
> My advice would be to grind off the paint on the bottom and slap a
> glass over it. Either that or carry a sponge.Randy,
Careful with taking on the cavalier stance of John Bell from
the glorious sunny state of Georgia,which knows no bitter cold
freezing temperatures like up in Alaska :-) That water soaked 3/8"
ply is just going to keep falling apart after each freeze up and
result in the fiberglass becoming"un-glued". Of course,a sponge too
is a workable bandage stopgap for your problem but it will only delay
the sad day when you finally put your foot right through the rotted
out soft plywood bottom.Don't know how warm you'll feel while singing
Georgia On My Mind from the top of your lungs as your toes go blue....
But then Anchorage may have some peculiar weather patterns that
only a fellow steeped in meteorology,like Nels, would know about and
John Bells' suggestion may be best........? I still think we need
David Josts' words of experience to tell the final tale :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,awefully tempted to invoke the assistance of Le Baron
de Kingston,aka Bad Boy Bruce, for his ultimate three sheets to the
wind,guns to go and dam the torpedoes approach to small boat
building/rescuing,from along the shores of the St.Lawrence.......
My Windsprint would leak a bit through the checks in her 1/4" fir bottom.
After a while in the water the wood would swell enough and leaks would stop.
My advice would be to grind off the paint on the bottom and slap a layer of
glass over it. Either that or carry a sponge.
After a while in the water the wood would swell enough and leaks would stop.
My advice would be to grind off the paint on the bottom and slap a layer of
glass over it. Either that or carry a sponge.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Beach" <rbeach@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2004 1:15 PM
Subject: [bolger] Need help, built a submarine!
> I finished a pointy skiff last summer and it worked great but this
> year I have notice all kinds of cracks along the bottom. When I
> place it in the water I have leaks coming up through the wood. I
> used exterior 3/8 fir plywood and finished the bottom with a sealer
> and and flat exterior white paint. Should I cut off the bottom and
> build in a new one, lay another piece of 1/4 marine grade ply over
> old bottom and glass the whole bottom and go up the sides a bit
> (should have done that to begin with)? Any Idea's would be great. I
> am sure that it is the Fir plywood that is the problem and not over
> stressing but I was not able to find a source of any other marine
> plywood in Anchorage Alaska.
>
> Randy
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Randy Beach" <rbeach@b...> wrote:
I
> am sure that it is the Fir plywood that is the problem and not over
> stressing but I was not able to find a source of any other marine
> plywood in Anchorage Alaska.
>
> Randy
Hi Randy,
Are you certain the water is coming in through the plywood checks and
not the chine joints? How is the interior finished? How much is
coming in?
Glassing the bottom to the waterline will stop the leaking, but I am
not certain how much sanding to do first. Peter Lenihan is the
sanding expert!
Cheers, Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Randy Beach" <rbeach@b...> wrote:
If water is seeping up through the 3/8th exterior ply,I fear
that laying another layer of 1/4" over this mess will just lock in a
festering problem. If it is not too much trouble to simply remove the
bottom plywood,that is,you did not use ring nails into the chine
logs, then certainly the best route would be to start with fresh dry
bottom plywood.Perhaps some MDO :-) or 1/2"BC Fir followed by a layer
of glass(10oz.).This does not have to cover the sides of the hull but
bringing it up to at least over-lap the chine would be nice.
If ring nails were used to secure the bottom plywood and you
wish to preserve the chine logs then cut out the bottom ply along the
inside profile of the side panels.This will leave you with a 3/8"
layer of ply over your chine logs. Use a right angle grinder with say
a 45 weight aluminium oxide paper to quickly sand off the remaining
plywood and nails.Wear eye protection.Once the bottom perimeter is
all sweet and clean,you may also wish to grind in some hollow into
your chine log prior to bedding your new plywood bottom down.
Good luck and never fear,if you built it,you can fix it! Just
ask David Jost,of this group,about his Pointy Skiffs' on going
rejuvination.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> I finished a pointy skiff last summer and it worked great but thisI
> year I have notice all kinds of cracks along the bottom. When I
> place it in the water I have leaks coming up through the wood. I
> used exterior 3/8 fir plywood and finished the bottom with a sealer
> and and flat exterior white paint. Should I cut off the bottom and
> build in a new one, lay another piece of 1/4 marine grade ply over
> old bottom and glass the whole bottom and go up the sides a bit
> (should have done that to begin with)? Any Idea's would be great.
> am sure that it is the Fir plywood that is the problem and not overRandy,
> stressing but I was not able to find a source of any other marine
> plywood in Anchorage Alaska.
>
> Randy
If water is seeping up through the 3/8th exterior ply,I fear
that laying another layer of 1/4" over this mess will just lock in a
festering problem. If it is not too much trouble to simply remove the
bottom plywood,that is,you did not use ring nails into the chine
logs, then certainly the best route would be to start with fresh dry
bottom plywood.Perhaps some MDO :-) or 1/2"BC Fir followed by a layer
of glass(10oz.).This does not have to cover the sides of the hull but
bringing it up to at least over-lap the chine would be nice.
If ring nails were used to secure the bottom plywood and you
wish to preserve the chine logs then cut out the bottom ply along the
inside profile of the side panels.This will leave you with a 3/8"
layer of ply over your chine logs. Use a right angle grinder with say
a 45 weight aluminium oxide paper to quickly sand off the remaining
plywood and nails.Wear eye protection.Once the bottom perimeter is
all sweet and clean,you may also wish to grind in some hollow into
your chine log prior to bedding your new plywood bottom down.
Good luck and never fear,if you built it,you can fix it! Just
ask David Jost,of this group,about his Pointy Skiffs' on going
rejuvination.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
I finished a pointy skiff last summer and it worked great but this
year I have notice all kinds of cracks along the bottom. When I
place it in the water I have leaks coming up through the wood. I
used exterior 3/8 fir plywood and finished the bottom with a sealer
and and flat exterior white paint. Should I cut off the bottom and
build in a new one, lay another piece of 1/4 marine grade ply over
old bottom and glass the whole bottom and go up the sides a bit
(should have done that to begin with)? Any Idea's would be great. I
am sure that it is the Fir plywood that is the problem and not over
stressing but I was not able to find a source of any other marine
plywood in Anchorage Alaska.
Randy
year I have notice all kinds of cracks along the bottom. When I
place it in the water I have leaks coming up through the wood. I
used exterior 3/8 fir plywood and finished the bottom with a sealer
and and flat exterior white paint. Should I cut off the bottom and
build in a new one, lay another piece of 1/4 marine grade ply over
old bottom and glass the whole bottom and go up the sides a bit
(should have done that to begin with)? Any Idea's would be great. I
am sure that it is the Fir plywood that is the problem and not over
stressing but I was not able to find a source of any other marine
plywood in Anchorage Alaska.
Randy