[bolger] Re: Tapering mast
On Mon, 13 Mar 2000, edward haile wrote:
pleasant and controllable.
> This reminds me of something I heard years ago to the effect that woodI do not know. I know that the process is a *lot* more
> shaped by a plane is stronger than wood shaped by a saw. What do you
> think?
pleasant and controllable.
Chris,
This reminds me of something I heard years ago to the effect that wood
shaped by a plane is stronger than wood shaped by a saw. What do you think?
Ed Haile
______________________________________________________
This reminds me of something I heard years ago to the effect that wood
shaped by a plane is stronger than wood shaped by a saw. What do you think?
Ed Haile
______________________________________________________
My mast was 22.5', 1" at point and 2.5". I used a hand held circular
saw for parts less than 2". I cut the thick part with my table saw
and no fence - just feeding the big stick by hand (there was only about
6 feet of that). It was pretty coarse but then I slicked it off with a
17" hand jointing plane that I bought at an antique store a few years
ago. A regular smoothing plane would do the trick also and I am sure a
power plane would work.
saw for parts less than 2". I cut the thick part with my table saw
and no fence - just feeding the big stick by hand (there was only about
6 feet of that). It was pretty coarse but then I slicked it off with a
17" hand jointing plane that I bought at an antique store a few years
ago. A regular smoothing plane would do the trick also and I am sure a
power plane would work.
Ouch!
You can knock me out, drag me down,
But stay off of my Makita power plane"
apologies to Elvis.
This is the best tool ever. Be careful near the end of the mast
because it will dig in. I used a well sharpened low angle block plane
that worked very well, and my 5 year old loved the shavings, but the
speed and accuracy of the power plane makes it a winner in my book. No
spar builder in the year 2000 should be without one. I did the sprits
for micro by hand, but the mizzen and main needed more planing than I
was willing to do.
The spar guage as outlined by Payson in his book works great and took
about an hour to build. Including finding the glue/nails/wood.
chris crandall <crandal-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3670
You can knock me out, drag me down,
But stay off of my Makita power plane"
apologies to Elvis.
This is the best tool ever. Be careful near the end of the mast
because it will dig in. I used a well sharpened low angle block plane
that worked very well, and my 5 year old loved the shavings, but the
speed and accuracy of the power plane makes it a winner in my book. No
spar builder in the year 2000 should be without one. I did the sprits
for micro by hand, but the mizzen and main needed more planing than I
was willing to do.
The spar guage as outlined by Payson in his book works great and took
about an hour to build. Including finding the glue/nails/wood.
chris crandall <crandal-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3670
> On Sun, 12 Mar 2000, DGO wrote:the
> > Tapering the mast looks tricky.
>
> It's really not. I tried lots of things, and it wasn't until I tried
> last thing that I got it right:It was
>
> A low angle block plane.
>
> I used a band saw and other thing, and had a lot of trouble.
> Then, I got the hand plane out, and I rerally started enjoying it.
> fun, the shavings were attractive, the smell and sound was a delight,and
> the block plane is self-smoothing, you get smooth long tapers. Itdoesn't
> matter if they are perfect, but no saw will get as long and straight adoesn't
> line as that low angle block plane.
>
> I would rough out the cuts, leaving *plenty* of wood, so that it
> get close, then cut down to the line with the plane.
>
> You *do not* need a power plane, and they suck, compared to the simple
> hand-crafted beauty of cutting out a mast with the hand plane.
>
> It take very little time, too.
>
> Chris Crandallcrandall@...(785) 864-4131
> Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045
> I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.
>
>
On Sun, 12 Mar 2000, DGO wrote:
last thing that I got it right:
A low angle block plane.
I used a band saw and other thing, and had a lot of trouble.
Then, I got the hand plane out, and I rerally started enjoying it. It was
fun, the shavings were attractive, the smell and sound was a delight, and
the block plane is self-smoothing, you get smooth long tapers. It doesn't
matter if they are perfect, but no saw will get as long and straight a
line as that low angle block plane.
I would rough out the cuts, leaving *plenty* of wood, so that it doesn't
get close, then cut down to the line with the plane.
You *do not* need a power plane, and they suck, compared to the simple
hand-crafted beauty of cutting out a mast with the hand plane.
It take very little time, too.
Chris Crandallcrandall@...(785) 864-4131
Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045
I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.
> Tapering the mast looks tricky.It's really not. I tried lots of things, and it wasn't until I tried the
last thing that I got it right:
A low angle block plane.
I used a band saw and other thing, and had a lot of trouble.
Then, I got the hand plane out, and I rerally started enjoying it. It was
fun, the shavings were attractive, the smell and sound was a delight, and
the block plane is self-smoothing, you get smooth long tapers. It doesn't
matter if they are perfect, but no saw will get as long and straight a
line as that low angle block plane.
I would rough out the cuts, leaving *plenty* of wood, so that it doesn't
get close, then cut down to the line with the plane.
You *do not* need a power plane, and they suck, compared to the simple
hand-crafted beauty of cutting out a mast with the hand plane.
It take very little time, too.
Chris Crandallcrandall@...(785) 864-4131
Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045
I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.
I used a circular saw to cut the taper on my mast/sprits/and mizzen. I
cut way outside the lines and then faired the taper with a power plane.
I recommend that you purchase the best saw blade you can.
David Jost
"dgo" <oswal-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3650
cut way outside the lines and then faired the taper with a power plane.
I recommend that you purchase the best saw blade you can.
David Jost
"dgo" <oswal-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3650
> Tapering the mast looks tricky.up
>
> The mast goes from 3/4 to 1 3/4 over 12 feet. I am temped to just take
> the circular saw to the line, but that means locking the blade guard
> at the start of the cut.
>
> Any other recommedations? I am doing this pretty much solo. Tools
> available are:
>
> hand saws/chisels/hand planes. (cut into the lines/chisel off
> waste/plane smooth)
>
> Angle grinder (You know, they make a chainsaw blade for these? Talk
> about a good way to loose fingers...)
>
>
> Router
>
> Jigsaw
>
> Circular Saw
>
> Bench-top table saw.
>
>
> Thanks for your ideas,
>
> DGO
>
>
I'm not real clear on the size of the table on the bench top table saw,
but I used a tapering jig on a real live table saw to make some
successfully tapered table legs. Worked nicely. First you have to find
or make some stock (not too soft) which fits in the groove in the table
without much slop. You glue this to the bottom of a piece of 1/2" ply,
maybe 4' long and wide enuf to overlap the blade. It wouldn't be a bad
idea to add a little weight to the jig. Run it through the saw with the
narrow piece on the bottom in the table's groove so that you have an
edge that starts just where the blade stops cutting. Now add some kind
of clamping mechanism to the top. You clamp your mast to the jig (if
you're patient, you could glue it down with some brown craft paper in
between with white glue, takes about 15 mins to dry enuf to use, and
you can pry it apart afterwards). If you shellac or otherwise seal the
wood you could probably use double stick tape. Clamp the mast so the
cut line is right over the trimmed edge of the plywood. Cut a ways,
then shut down and shift the mast along the jig to make the next part
of the cut. I didn't have to shift anything for the table leg. Should
be safe and well controlled. You might want some kind of roller or rest
for the ends of the mast. Glad you asked because now I think I will try
this myself when the time comes. Will have to borrow a saw, tho. I'm
not sure if this method is quicker than just cutting with a jigsaw (do
you mean a saber saw, that is hand held?) or circular saw. However, I
would wager it is a lot less tense, especially if you take your time.
Does require a fairly straight blank to start with. Hope this is all
clear. Good luck.
"dgo" <oswal-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3650
but I used a tapering jig on a real live table saw to make some
successfully tapered table legs. Worked nicely. First you have to find
or make some stock (not too soft) which fits in the groove in the table
without much slop. You glue this to the bottom of a piece of 1/2" ply,
maybe 4' long and wide enuf to overlap the blade. It wouldn't be a bad
idea to add a little weight to the jig. Run it through the saw with the
narrow piece on the bottom in the table's groove so that you have an
edge that starts just where the blade stops cutting. Now add some kind
of clamping mechanism to the top. You clamp your mast to the jig (if
you're patient, you could glue it down with some brown craft paper in
between with white glue, takes about 15 mins to dry enuf to use, and
you can pry it apart afterwards). If you shellac or otherwise seal the
wood you could probably use double stick tape. Clamp the mast so the
cut line is right over the trimmed edge of the plywood. Cut a ways,
then shut down and shift the mast along the jig to make the next part
of the cut. I didn't have to shift anything for the table leg. Should
be safe and well controlled. You might want some kind of roller or rest
for the ends of the mast. Glad you asked because now I think I will try
this myself when the time comes. Will have to borrow a saw, tho. I'm
not sure if this method is quicker than just cutting with a jigsaw (do
you mean a saber saw, that is hand held?) or circular saw. However, I
would wager it is a lot less tense, especially if you take your time.
Does require a fairly straight blank to start with. Hope this is all
clear. Good luck.
"dgo" <oswal-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=3650
> Tapering the mast looks tricky.up
>
> The mast goes from 3/4 to 1 3/4 over 12 feet. I am temped to just take
> the circular saw to the line, but that means locking the blade guard
> at the start of the cut.
>
> snip
> Bench-top table saw.
>
>
> Thanks for your ideas,
>
> DGO
>
>
Tapering the mast looks tricky.
The mast goes from 3/4 to 1 3/4 over 12 feet. I am temped to just take
the circular saw to the line, but that means locking the blade guard up
at the start of the cut.
Any other recommedations? I am doing this pretty much solo. Tools
available are:
hand saws/chisels/hand planes. (cut into the lines/chisel off
waste/plane smooth)
Angle grinder (You know, they make a chainsaw blade for these? Talk
about a good way to loose fingers...)
Router
Jigsaw
Circular Saw
Bench-top table saw.
Thanks for your ideas,
DGO
The mast goes from 3/4 to 1 3/4 over 12 feet. I am temped to just take
the circular saw to the line, but that means locking the blade guard up
at the start of the cut.
Any other recommedations? I am doing this pretty much solo. Tools
available are:
hand saws/chisels/hand planes. (cut into the lines/chisel off
waste/plane smooth)
Angle grinder (You know, they make a chainsaw blade for these? Talk
about a good way to loose fingers...)
Router
Jigsaw
Circular Saw
Bench-top table saw.
Thanks for your ideas,
DGO