Re: Micro outboard stuff
Hey, Thanks everyone for your input. Looks like the skilsaw will
come out tonight...
M
come out tonight...
M
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "strika62" <strika62@y...> wrote:
> I think I've seen posts in the past about this but I can't
find 'em...
> Anyway: The transom cap that lies over the motor mount on the
Micro
> (as designed) is not high enough to allow my outboard to tilt up
all
> the way, so I'm forced to sail with the prop down ("click, click,
> click, click...") or take the motor off the mount altogether
> (Grunt!). Anybody got any ideas for how to adjust that cap so
she'll
> tilt up all the way???
>
> Thanks
> M
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
Perhaps a full length curved
> bronze rod across the transom would allow passage of the motor and
> ensure no sheeting past either quarter. Although the mizzen mast
> would interfere on port tack.
For a photo of a bronze traveller check out the files section,under
MICRO,Lenihan's LESTAT.......it worked for me :-)
http://f6.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/AEO4QF2yECU-
ErednZjVLFFAKXpl_1_xhXr6ylL7fpJzxe05r8IRamCfFDoVL_8_OU4ijOyLzA1jEha5Y
uiPe9ulS4IqQxZ_uFuh1rEDyDJTCzVw9XRc/Micro/Lenihans%27%20%20%22LESTAT%
22%20/Stern.jpg
I guess I might have elaborated. As you say, the boom never comes in
further than the corner of the transom. If you're sheeting from the
windward side, the sheet holds it at the leeward corner with a more
horizontal pull and allows the boom to rise for more fullness in the sail.
I've had good luck with "travelers" made from 1x19 SS wire rope with a
plastic covering, loosely strung between strap eyes on the corners of the
transom. The tiller goes underneath. The sheet terminates in a snap hook
which can be allowed to slide in high winds or secured to a corner.
The "performance" improvement may be small, but it feels good to do it
right. Our students used to race Optimist Prams which have even less claim
to speed than a Micro. Also, if there's another Micro in the area, you may
psych him out.
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
further than the corner of the transom. If you're sheeting from the
windward side, the sheet holds it at the leeward corner with a more
horizontal pull and allows the boom to rise for more fullness in the sail.
I've had good luck with "travelers" made from 1x19 SS wire rope with a
plastic covering, loosely strung between strap eyes on the corners of the
transom. The tiller goes underneath. The sheet terminates in a snap hook
which can be allowed to slide in high winds or secured to a corner.
The "performance" improvement may be small, but it feels good to do it
right. Our students used to race Optimist Prams which have even less claim
to speed than a Micro. Also, if there's another Micro in the area, you may
psych him out.
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "dnjost" <djost@...>
> roger,
> correct you are!
> Hence the thought of putting a traveler on the boat to get some of
> this effect. Although tightening the snotter works really well on
> this boat to depower the sail. I do remember that it was not good to
> sheet in past the quarters on the boat. Perhaps a full length curved
> bronze rod across the transom would allow passage of the motor and
> ensure no sheeting past either quarter. Although the mizzen mast
> would interfere on port tack.
>
> Seems kind of strange to talk about performance sailing on a Micro.
> Not sure Bolger would approve unless we could use the motors.
>
> David Jost
My goodness, right Roger, this is shocking, my memory failed me....the
block was not fixed on the centreline. I had a rope horse/traveller
fixed to each side of the bulkhead, and a double mainsheet block
runner on the rope. I never bothered with traveller ropes to position
it athwartships...didn't seem to make much difference.
DonB
block was not fixed on the centreline. I had a rope horse/traveller
fixed to each side of the bulkhead, and a double mainsheet block
runner on the rope. I never bothered with traveller ropes to position
it athwartships...didn't seem to make much difference.
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> When beating:
> High wind ==> sheet on the leeward side (flattens sail)
> Low wind ==> sheet on the windward side (belly'd sail)
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@s...
> derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dnjost" <djost@m...>
>
>
> > If I remember correctly, I had the mainsheet block located there on
> > the center line to get the best sheeting angle I could.
> > However, I doubt that sheeting slightly off center would make a
> > difference, and thought that perhaps a bronze rod traveller across
> > the stern would work better at times.
roger,
correct you are!
Hence the thought of putting a traveler on the boat to get some of
this effect. Although tightening the snotter works really well on
this boat to depower the sail. I do remember that it was not good to
sheet in past the quarters on the boat. Perhaps a full length curved
bronze rod across the transom would allow passage of the motor and
ensure no sheeting past either quarter. Although the mizzen mast
would interfere on port tack.
Seems kind of strange to talk about performance sailing on a Micro.
Not sure Bolger would approve unless we could use the motors.
David Jost
correct you are!
Hence the thought of putting a traveler on the boat to get some of
this effect. Although tightening the snotter works really well on
this boat to depower the sail. I do remember that it was not good to
sheet in past the quarters on the boat. Perhaps a full length curved
bronze rod across the transom would allow passage of the motor and
ensure no sheeting past either quarter. Although the mizzen mast
would interfere on port tack.
Seems kind of strange to talk about performance sailing on a Micro.
Not sure Bolger would approve unless we could use the motors.
David Jost
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> When beating:
> High wind ==> sheet on the leeward side (flattens sail)
> Low wind ==> sheet on the windward side (belly'd sail)
>
When beating:
High wind ==> sheet on the leeward side (flattens sail)
Low wind ==> sheet on the windward side (belly'd sail)
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
High wind ==> sheet on the leeward side (flattens sail)
Low wind ==> sheet on the windward side (belly'd sail)
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "dnjost" <djost@...>
> If I remember correctly, I had the mainsheet block located there on
> the center line to get the best sheeting angle I could.
> However, I doubt that sheeting slightly off center would make a
> difference, and thought that perhaps a bronze rod traveller across
> the stern would work better at times.
I sheeted via a swivel block fixed to the top of the rudder post
bulkhead (centre rear of cockpit deck), and it worked perfectly well
there.
The stern top crossbeam is doing very little work. The motor is
supported by the motorboard, which is a strong full width item, and
the mizzen on the micro is so squitty that its loads are very light,
though I did put braces across to the rudder bulkhead just in case.
I remember being terribly pissed off, after finishing the boat
completely, then my little 4hp Yamaha went clonk against the beam.
2 minutes of red mist action with a handsaw beat it!
DonB
http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
bulkhead (centre rear of cockpit deck), and it worked perfectly well
there.
The stern top crossbeam is doing very little work. The motor is
supported by the motorboard, which is a strong full width item, and
the mizzen on the micro is so squitty that its loads are very light,
though I did put braces across to the rudder bulkhead just in case.
I remember being terribly pissed off, after finishing the boat
completely, then my little 4hp Yamaha went clonk against the beam.
2 minutes of red mist action with a handsaw beat it!
DonB
http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
> Bruce,
>
> If I remember correctly, I had the mainsheet block located there on
> the center line to get the best sheeting angle I could.
> However, I doubt that sheeting slightly off center would make a
> difference, and thought that perhaps a bronze rod traveller across
> the stern would work better at times.
>
> David Jost
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> > Removing (omitting) the top board across the top of the
> > motor well opening is also an option. That board serves
> > no purpose that I can see.
> >
Bruce,
If I remember correctly, I had the mainsheet block located there on
the center line to get the best sheeting angle I could.
However, I doubt that sheeting slightly off center would make a
difference, and thought that perhaps a bronze rod traveller across
the stern would work better at times.
David Jost
If I remember correctly, I had the mainsheet block located there on
the center line to get the best sheeting angle I could.
However, I doubt that sheeting slightly off center would make a
difference, and thought that perhaps a bronze rod traveller across
the stern would work better at times.
David Jost
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> Removing (omitting) the top board across the top of the
> motor well opening is also an option. That board serves
> no purpose that I can see.
>
Also very handy if you would otherwise be becalmed and don't care to use
the engine.
the engine.
>DonB wrote:
>
>Or, less elegant to be sure.....chop it off! I did this, and put in 2
>diagonal stays down to the bulkhead. Very strong, and makes getting
>aboard a breeze (witout outboard in place).
>seehttp://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
>DonB
>
Removing (omitting) the top board across the top of the
motor well opening is also an option. That board serves
no purpose that I can see.
motor well opening is also an option. That board serves
no purpose that I can see.
On Thu, 27 May 2004 20:28:35 -0700, Derek Waters <dgw@...> wrote:
>
> A couple of three-eights boards can be laminated on the boat without
> steaming, to give a three quarter inch thick, very sturdy arched result.
> I'll put a picture in the photos section of Bolger3.
>
>http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger3/lst?.dir=/Micro+Gaffer&.src=gr&
> .view=t
>
> cheers
> Derek
>
>
A couple of three-eights boards can be laminated on the boat without
steaming, to give a three quarter inch thick, very sturdy arched result.
I'll put a picture in the photos section of Bolger3.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger3/lst?.dir=/Micro+Gaffer&.src=gr&
.view=t
cheers
Derek
steaming, to give a three quarter inch thick, very sturdy arched result.
I'll put a picture in the photos section of Bolger3.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger3/lst?.dir=/Micro+Gaffer&.src=gr&
.view=t
cheers
Derek
Or, less elegant to be sure.....chop it off! I did this, and put in 2
diagonal stays down to the bulkhead. Very strong, and makes getting
aboard a breeze (witout outboard in place).
seehttp://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
DonB
diagonal stays down to the bulkhead. Very strong, and makes getting
aboard a breeze (witout outboard in place).
seehttp://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "strika62" <strika62@y...> wrote:
> I think I've seen posts in the past about this but I can't find 'em...
> Anyway: The transom cap that lies over the motor mount on the Micro
> (as designed) is not high enough to allow my outboard to tilt up all
> the way, so I'm forced to sail with the prop down ("click, click,
> click, click...") or take the motor off the mount altogether
> (Grunt!). Anybody got any ideas for how to adjust that cap so she'll
> tilt up all the way???
>
> Thanks
> M
you have a few choices here.
1. build a port and starboard lift of sorts to raise the board high
enough to raise the engine.
2. purchase a 1974 evinrude or johnson as they fit the opening
perfectly.
3. the ultimately elegant solution would be to steam the board long
enough to bend it to the proper dimension.
If I were to do it again I would choose option #3. Setting up a
steaming apparatus is actually quite easy and the curvature on the
transom would look handsome!
Happy Sailing
David Jost
"former Micro builder/owner"
1. build a port and starboard lift of sorts to raise the board high
enough to raise the engine.
2. purchase a 1974 evinrude or johnson as they fit the opening
perfectly.
3. the ultimately elegant solution would be to steam the board long
enough to bend it to the proper dimension.
If I were to do it again I would choose option #3. Setting up a
steaming apparatus is actually quite easy and the curvature on the
transom would look handsome!
Happy Sailing
David Jost
"former Micro builder/owner"
I think I've seen posts in the past about this but I can't find 'em...
Anyway: The transom cap that lies over the motor mount on the Micro
(as designed) is not high enough to allow my outboard to tilt up all
the way, so I'm forced to sail with the prop down ("click, click,
click, click...") or take the motor off the mount altogether
(Grunt!). Anybody got any ideas for how to adjust that cap so she'll
tilt up all the way???
Thanks
M
Anyway: The transom cap that lies over the motor mount on the Micro
(as designed) is not high enough to allow my outboard to tilt up all
the way, so I'm forced to sail with the prop down ("click, click,
click, click...") or take the motor off the mount altogether
(Grunt!). Anybody got any ideas for how to adjust that cap so she'll
tilt up all the way???
Thanks
M