Re: [bolger] Re: micro hull with a hair of oilcanning......
On Jason Stancil wrote:
Putting the lead ballast in place, and sheathing it with
plywood per PCB's building key worked great. It seems
a lot easer to fit the wood to the lead, than the lead to
the wood [IMO].
in a matter of hours.
while the hull was lying on its side on my shop floor.
To keep the hull from rocking back and forth,
I used some cinderblocks and wedges.
on all six sides of the cabin. The sill was made from strips that I
ripped from 2x6 Home Depo DFir, which I laminated up to be about
1 1/2" wide. I recall that across the front deck, for the front windows,
the curve was in two directions, so I built the lower sill/rail from
3/4" x 3/4" strips laminated together. I didn't do much planing, but
rather I did lots of shaping with my belt sander and 40 grit belts.
>I was actually schemeing filling in the voids with deadwood andI don't see the purpose of the deadwood, nor a pocket.
>inserting the lead into the pocket on down the road towards
>completion
Putting the lead ballast in place, and sheathing it with
plywood per PCB's building key worked great. It seems
a lot easer to fit the wood to the lead, than the lead to
the wood [IMO].
> Riddle me this: How long do i need to let the glass cure before iLet the epoxy cure until it is hard, that should happen
> set her back on her belly?
in a matter of hours.
> I'm thinking of building a little cradle, out of some studs i haveI installed the floor beams, and the berth sides
> laying around, accross the bulkheads so the belly can hang loose and
> bow out a little while i get the floor board supports in......Did
> your's sit on the floor the whole time you finished it or did you
> prop it up a bit.
while the hull was lying on its side on my shop floor.
To keep the hull from rocking back and forth,
I used some cinderblocks and wedges.
> One more question: Did you shape the foot of your cabin structure orI build a sill and attached the lower rails of the window openings
> could you make that curve with that big stick?......Since i'm too
> cheap to buy some nice okume for the cabin (ala' oink) i'm trying to
> figure how thin of stips of doug fir i need to cut for the curves
> and lamination......i don't do well planing lumber to fit. But i
> hate to make it ultra tedious.
on all six sides of the cabin. The sill was made from strips that I
ripped from 2x6 Home Depo DFir, which I laminated up to be about
1 1/2" wide. I recall that across the front deck, for the front windows,
the curve was in two directions, so I built the lower sill/rail from
3/4" x 3/4" strips laminated together. I didn't do much planing, but
rather I did lots of shaping with my belt sander and 40 grit belts.
Bruce-
I was actually schemeing filling in the voids with deadwood and
inserting the lead into the pocket on down the road towards
completion (i've seen where a few others have had success with this
method).
However, you've got me convinced to wait.....did'nt take much as i'm
not looking forward to it.
Riddle me this: How long do i need to let the glass cure before i
set her back on her belly? Hate to screw it up, looks nice and fair.
Actually surprised myself. But i've got this weekend free to work,
but ican't do much till i roll her back over.
I'm thinking of building a little cradle, out of some studs i have
laying around, accross the bulkheads so the belly can hang loose and
bow out a little while i get the floor board supports in......Did
your's sit on the floor the whole time you finished it or did you
prop it up a bit.
I did my first bit of micro balloon fairing today at lunch.....that
stuff does sand easy, but it took alot to thicken the epoxy. Glad i
waited so long to figure this out or i would have been alot sloppier
in assembly. I should be able to "hide" all my little boo-boos.
One more question: Did you shape the foot of your cabin structure or
could you make that curve with that big stick?......Since i'm too
cheap to buy some nice okume for the cabin (ala' oink) i'm trying to
figure how thin of stips of doug fir i need to cut for the curves
and lamination......i don't do well planing lumber to fit. But i
hate to make it ultra tedious.
Jason
I was actually schemeing filling in the voids with deadwood and
inserting the lead into the pocket on down the road towards
completion (i've seen where a few others have had success with this
method).
However, you've got me convinced to wait.....did'nt take much as i'm
not looking forward to it.
Riddle me this: How long do i need to let the glass cure before i
set her back on her belly? Hate to screw it up, looks nice and fair.
Actually surprised myself. But i've got this weekend free to work,
but ican't do much till i roll her back over.
I'm thinking of building a little cradle, out of some studs i have
laying around, accross the bulkheads so the belly can hang loose and
bow out a little while i get the floor board supports in......Did
your's sit on the floor the whole time you finished it or did you
prop it up a bit.
I did my first bit of micro balloon fairing today at lunch.....that
stuff does sand easy, but it took alot to thicken the epoxy. Glad i
waited so long to figure this out or i would have been alot sloppier
in assembly. I should be able to "hide" all my little boo-boos.
One more question: Did you shape the foot of your cabin structure or
could you make that curve with that big stick?......Since i'm too
cheap to buy some nice okume for the cabin (ala' oink) i'm trying to
figure how thin of stips of doug fir i need to cut for the curves
and lamination......i don't do well planing lumber to fit. But i
hate to make it ultra tedious.
Jason
The floor board supports and berth sides provide important added
reinforcment to the bottom to control the oil canning.
I can't think of any reason the fin keel needs glassing of seams;
and if you want to glass the seams, I can't think of much reason
these would need to be neat and pretty, hidden below the boat.
More or less, it is a good idea to build the boat in the order
outlined in Bolger's building key.
You first attach the batten, then you second attach the ballast
using plywood keel sheathing.
Read PCB note 14:
"14. Keel batten 1 1/2" square, carefully glued to bottom; 1/4" or
3/8" bolts through each butt strap; 1 1/2" large guage screws from
inside of bottom on about 3" spacing and staggerd as much as
possible. Batten extends from bow to vertical sternpost."
I found it easiest to install the batten with the boat lying on
it's side. It is easier to drill holes and thread the bolts
through the butt straps if you can access them while the
hull is lying on it's side.
I also installed the floor & berth supports with the
hull lying on it's side.
Read PCB notes 25 & 26 of the building key:
"25. Lead Ballast casting to diagram, touched up to fit actual curve
of keel batten. No fastenings to keel batten; it's secured by keel
sheathing see #26"
I used a skill saw with a carbide blade to touch up the curve of the lead
casting. Manuvering the casting on a dolly, I rolled it into place,
marked the shape of the cutline, rolled it out, cut it to shape, and then
rolled it back into position before nailing on the plywood sheathing.
The dolly was improvised, just a piece of 3/4" plywood with vertical
braces to cradle the lead casting. I used scape steel pipe sections
as rollers. Tipping the lead casting from it's side to vertical was not
easy, I needed to make an 8' home made lever arm of 2x4" to get
enough purchase to control the beast. Once vertical, and on the
dolly, moving it around was easy.
"26. Keel sheathing plywood shaped to fit profile of ballast casting
and faired out forwared and to sternpost as shown. Butt in way of
ballast keel as marked, and pieced out at forward end and top after
corner as necessary to fit economically on plywood sheets as shown.
Epoxy glue and 1" ring nails or screws to keel batten, blocking, and
ballast keel on about 3" spacing around edges and checkerboard
elsewhere to have no nail more than 6" from the next. Voids forward
and abaft ballast casting are free-flooding with 1/2" vents and drains
at corners."
I used the 'Simpson hanger' galvanized short fat nails they sell at Home Depot
instead of ring nails. It was hard swinging a hammer, lying on my side under
the hull, but I got it done easy enough.
Personally, I would fear the challange of flipping a flimsy plywood box
with 400 lbs of lead on the top, more than I would fear the challange
of hanging and fastening 400 pounds of lead below such a box.
Be aware that you have about a thousand+ trips up and down
in and out of the hull ahead of you. After you raise hull
up on the fin keel each of these steps will be 12" higher.
That is like climbing a ladder a quarter mile high, up and down.
I am really happy that I delayed the installing of the fin keel
until after finishing the inside of the cabin.
On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 15:26:54 -0000, Jason Stancil
<jasonstancil@...> wrote:
reinforcment to the bottom to control the oil canning.
I can't think of any reason the fin keel needs glassing of seams;
and if you want to glass the seams, I can't think of much reason
these would need to be neat and pretty, hidden below the boat.
More or less, it is a good idea to build the boat in the order
outlined in Bolger's building key.
You first attach the batten, then you second attach the ballast
using plywood keel sheathing.
Read PCB note 14:
"14. Keel batten 1 1/2" square, carefully glued to bottom; 1/4" or
3/8" bolts through each butt strap; 1 1/2" large guage screws from
inside of bottom on about 3" spacing and staggerd as much as
possible. Batten extends from bow to vertical sternpost."
I found it easiest to install the batten with the boat lying on
it's side. It is easier to drill holes and thread the bolts
through the butt straps if you can access them while the
hull is lying on it's side.
I also installed the floor & berth supports with the
hull lying on it's side.
Read PCB notes 25 & 26 of the building key:
"25. Lead Ballast casting to diagram, touched up to fit actual curve
of keel batten. No fastenings to keel batten; it's secured by keel
sheathing see #26"
I used a skill saw with a carbide blade to touch up the curve of the lead
casting. Manuvering the casting on a dolly, I rolled it into place,
marked the shape of the cutline, rolled it out, cut it to shape, and then
rolled it back into position before nailing on the plywood sheathing.
The dolly was improvised, just a piece of 3/4" plywood with vertical
braces to cradle the lead casting. I used scape steel pipe sections
as rollers. Tipping the lead casting from it's side to vertical was not
easy, I needed to make an 8' home made lever arm of 2x4" to get
enough purchase to control the beast. Once vertical, and on the
dolly, moving it around was easy.
"26. Keel sheathing plywood shaped to fit profile of ballast casting
and faired out forwared and to sternpost as shown. Butt in way of
ballast keel as marked, and pieced out at forward end and top after
corner as necessary to fit economically on plywood sheets as shown.
Epoxy glue and 1" ring nails or screws to keel batten, blocking, and
ballast keel on about 3" spacing around edges and checkerboard
elsewhere to have no nail more than 6" from the next. Voids forward
and abaft ballast casting are free-flooding with 1/2" vents and drains
at corners."
I used the 'Simpson hanger' galvanized short fat nails they sell at Home Depot
instead of ring nails. It was hard swinging a hammer, lying on my side under
the hull, but I got it done easy enough.
Personally, I would fear the challange of flipping a flimsy plywood box
with 400 lbs of lead on the top, more than I would fear the challange
of hanging and fastening 400 pounds of lead below such a box.
Be aware that you have about a thousand+ trips up and down
in and out of the hull ahead of you. After you raise hull
up on the fin keel each of these steps will be 12" higher.
That is like climbing a ladder a quarter mile high, up and down.
I am really happy that I delayed the installing of the fin keel
until after finishing the inside of the cabin.
On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 15:26:54 -0000, Jason Stancil
<jasonstancil@...> wrote:
>
> Last night i was measuring out where the keel batton will go. I
> noticed there is a slight bit of "sag" in the center of the hull. I
> noticed because the scraps from routing off the second layer of the
> bottom don't quite fit the hull bttom.......they should be the same
> curvature....then again i had a couple of beers while lofting :)
>
> I have'nt installed the floor board braces yet and i beleive this is
> the reason. Has anyone else had this problem?
>
> I kinda want to hang the keel while it is upside down so it will be
> easier to glass the seams......as opposed to me being under the boat
> with goo dripping all over me. It's heavy enough now that this will
> be the last time i flip it. So this is my last chance.
>
> Should i squeeze under it and support the inside with some posts
> while i attach the keel and batton. Or should i wait till i have the
> inside completely framed.
>
> I know i'll have to latter in and out once i install the keel. So be
> it. I want to get the keel out of the way......it's causing me
> anxiety thinking about it.
>
> Thanks,
> Jason
>
> PS dynel draps beautifully over sharp chines.......6 oz biaxel tape
> sucks!
Last night i was measuring out where the keel batton will go. I
noticed there is a slight bit of "sag" in the center of the hull. I
noticed because the scraps from routing off the second layer of the
bottom don't quite fit the hull bttom.......they should be the same
curvature....then again i had a couple of beers while lofting :)
I have'nt installed the floor board braces yet and i beleive this is
the reason. Has anyone else had this problem?
I kinda want to hang the keel while it is upside down so it will be
easier to glass the seams......as opposed to me being under the boat
with goo dripping all over me. It's heavy enough now that this will
be the last time i flip it. So this is my last chance.
Should i squeeze under it and support the inside with some posts
while i attach the keel and batton. Or should i wait till i have the
inside completely framed.
I know i'll have to latter in and out once i install the keel. So be
it. I want to get the keel out of the way......it's causing me
anxiety thinking about it.
Thanks,
Jason
PS dynel draps beautifully over sharp chines.......6 oz biaxel tape
sucks!
noticed there is a slight bit of "sag" in the center of the hull. I
noticed because the scraps from routing off the second layer of the
bottom don't quite fit the hull bttom.......they should be the same
curvature....then again i had a couple of beers while lofting :)
I have'nt installed the floor board braces yet and i beleive this is
the reason. Has anyone else had this problem?
I kinda want to hang the keel while it is upside down so it will be
easier to glass the seams......as opposed to me being under the boat
with goo dripping all over me. It's heavy enough now that this will
be the last time i flip it. So this is my last chance.
Should i squeeze under it and support the inside with some posts
while i attach the keel and batton. Or should i wait till i have the
inside completely framed.
I know i'll have to latter in and out once i install the keel. So be
it. I want to get the keel out of the way......it's causing me
anxiety thinking about it.
Thanks,
Jason
PS dynel draps beautifully over sharp chines.......6 oz biaxel tape
sucks!