Re: Epoxy fillet sans glass
If I want a strong - No Tape - fillet, I use milled fiberglass as
the filler (1/32th stuff) Make up a stiff mixture to look like snot
green colored peanutbutter and fillet BIG. Stuff is realively cheap
and very strong.
Dave
the filler (1/32th stuff) Make up a stiff mixture to look like snot
green colored peanutbutter and fillet BIG. Stuff is realively cheap
and very strong.
Dave
>> I haven't gotten the knack yet for finishing the glass taped seamDoug --
>> for that nice smooth finish. The edges of the tape give me fits.
To get a smooth, easily sandable fillet with glass, smear in the
thickened epoxy fillet with your mixing stick or tennis ball or
whatever, lay on the glass, paint over with a thin layer of epoxy,
thickened or not -- then lay on a film of that heavy-duty vinyl you
can get in the WalMart sewing section. Roll it out a bit, smooth it
over, work the feather edge out to nothing, let it cure. Peel it up.
Voila. Easily sanded with fine grit only, and ready for paint.
You can buy the vinyl in huge batches cheap ($2.50 for a yard, 54"
wide) and cut it into foot-wide strips to lay over fillets.
All best,
Garth
i have been joining 3/4" MDO bulkheads to the insides of my GRP hull and
have been wondering if the 3/8 cove of thickened epoxy is enough. Your mail
has made me think it probably is. I did put glass tape on one side of the
bulkhead but got doing other things and never got back to doing more taping.
I guess more is better, but is it necessary?
Grant
on 6/8/04 11:15 AM, Doug Day atdaysatnight@...wrote:
have been wondering if the 3/8 cove of thickened epoxy is enough. Your mail
has made me think it probably is. I did put glass tape on one side of the
bulkhead but got doing other things and never got back to doing more taping.
I guess more is better, but is it necessary?
Grant
on 6/8/04 11:15 AM, Doug Day atdaysatnight@...wrote:
> Last year I had some excess epoxy thickened with carbosil from a
> batch I mixed up. I used it to glue some 1/4" ply together at a 90
> degree angle to make a T. Radius of the fillet was about 1/2" on
> both sides - whatever the rounded end of the mixing stick I was
> using - and no glass tape. It's still in my garage and strong as
> can be. I've jumped up and down on it and done everything but drive
> my car over it and it's still together.
>
> I am curious if this can be used on seams in the boat. Not on long
> ply seams and such but say for bulkheads and frames where they
> attach to the sides or each other. I haven't gotten the knack yet
> for finishing the glass taped seam for that nice smooth finish. The
> edges of the tape give me fits. The test piece seam is very smooth
> and it would not take much to get it to a nice "finished" condition.
>
> I am just curious if anyone does this and what their experience has
> been.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doug
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
I filleted all my bulkhead joints and the chine log corners in my
micro. There are a ton (literally) of bronze ring nails and ss
screws in place so i did'nt do it for stregth but to keep moisture
out of these spots.......if it pops up that will make matters
worse.....we'll see. I used epoxy ultra thickened with maple flour.
Seems to be solid for now. I'll have to wait and see what the
pounding does to it. The boat is 3/8 on the side with oversize sheer
clamps and rubrails, 3/4 on the bottom, with excesive navigator
framing, with 6 oz of dynel on the bottom and 12 oz on the chines. I
don't think the flexing will be too bad. I actually beat on it with
a mallet yesterday to see how solid it felt......I better watch it
or the thing will sit on her lines before i get my body on board.
Jason
micro. There are a ton (literally) of bronze ring nails and ss
screws in place so i did'nt do it for stregth but to keep moisture
out of these spots.......if it pops up that will make matters
worse.....we'll see. I used epoxy ultra thickened with maple flour.
Seems to be solid for now. I'll have to wait and see what the
pounding does to it. The boat is 3/8 on the side with oversize sheer
clamps and rubrails, 3/4 on the bottom, with excesive navigator
framing, with 6 oz of dynel on the bottom and 12 oz on the chines. I
don't think the flexing will be too bad. I actually beat on it with
a mallet yesterday to see how solid it felt......I better watch it
or the thing will sit on her lines before i get my body on board.
Jason
Use a high fiber filler like wood flour or cotton for the fillet thickener. This will help with the cracking and add good strength.
I personally am doing as Chuck does by using epoxy at the bulkhead joint and leave in the fasteners if at all possible. Then a simple fillet of epoxy for added strength. I also add a fillet of caulking before painting to help water proof if the fillet cracks. The caulking makes the joint nice and smooth so the sanding of the fillet is mostly optional. A good 50 year warranty caulk should last a number of years on a boat.
Jeff
I personally am doing as Chuck does by using epoxy at the bulkhead joint and leave in the fasteners if at all possible. Then a simple fillet of epoxy for added strength. I also add a fillet of caulking before painting to help water proof if the fillet cracks. The caulking makes the joint nice and smooth so the sanding of the fillet is mostly optional. A good 50 year warranty caulk should last a number of years on a boat.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Derby
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Epoxy fillet sans glass
My two cents, but I'm not happy with my technique.
The layers of glass do make several orders of magnitude improvement in
strength.
Getting the glass to lie down on the fillet is tough. Too often it pulls up
and leaves voids underneath -- I don't know if this is my putting tension on
it or some shrinkage or ??? Lots of dabbing with a stiff brush soaked in
epoxy helps, but in the corners, ycch! It's easier if the fillet is still
sticky (not fully cured).
The selvege edge of the tape is a pain. Cutting it off, or cutting the
strip from a wider piece of fiberglass makes fairing much easier, but the
cobwebs of glass strands are a mess. The fairing issue is particularly bad
if one follows the recommended technique of putting the narrowest strip down
first and covering it with wider ones. Too often, I've ground thru the top
strips, making them useless for strength. Personally, I like putting the
widest down first.
Any suggestions are welcome!
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Day" <daysatnight@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:15 AM
Subject: [bolger] Epoxy fillet sans glass
> Last year I had some excess epoxy thickened with carbosil from a
> batch I mixed up. I used it to glue some 1/4" ply together at a 90
> degree angle to make a T. Radius of the fillet was about 1/2" on
> both sides - whatever the rounded end of the mixing stick I was
> using - and no glass tape. It's still in my garage and strong as
> can be. I've jumped up and down on it and done everything but drive
> my car over it and it's still together.
>
> I am curious if this can be used on seams in the boat. Not on long
> ply seams and such but say for bulkheads and frames where they
> attach to the sides or each other. I haven't gotten the knack yet
> for finishing the glass taped seam for that nice smooth finish. The
> edges of the tape give me fits. The test piece seam is very smooth
> and it would not take much to get it to a nice "finished" condition.
>
> I am just curious if anyone does this and what their experience has
> been.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doug
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My two cents, but I'm not happy with my technique.
The layers of glass do make several orders of magnitude improvement in
strength.
Getting the glass to lie down on the fillet is tough. Too often it pulls up
and leaves voids underneath -- I don't know if this is my putting tension on
it or some shrinkage or ??? Lots of dabbing with a stiff brush soaked in
epoxy helps, but in the corners, ycch! It's easier if the fillet is still
sticky (not fully cured).
The selvege edge of the tape is a pain. Cutting it off, or cutting the
strip from a wider piece of fiberglass makes fairing much easier, but the
cobwebs of glass strands are a mess. The fairing issue is particularly bad
if one follows the recommended technique of putting the narrowest strip down
first and covering it with wider ones. Too often, I've ground thru the top
strips, making them useless for strength. Personally, I like putting the
widest down first.
Any suggestions are welcome!
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
The layers of glass do make several orders of magnitude improvement in
strength.
Getting the glass to lie down on the fillet is tough. Too often it pulls up
and leaves voids underneath -- I don't know if this is my putting tension on
it or some shrinkage or ??? Lots of dabbing with a stiff brush soaked in
epoxy helps, but in the corners, ycch! It's easier if the fillet is still
sticky (not fully cured).
The selvege edge of the tape is a pain. Cutting it off, or cutting the
strip from a wider piece of fiberglass makes fairing much easier, but the
cobwebs of glass strands are a mess. The fairing issue is particularly bad
if one follows the recommended technique of putting the narrowest strip down
first and covering it with wider ones. Too often, I've ground thru the top
strips, making them useless for strength. Personally, I like putting the
widest down first.
Any suggestions are welcome!
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Day" <daysatnight@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:15 AM
Subject: [bolger] Epoxy fillet sans glass
> Last year I had some excess epoxy thickened with carbosil from a
> batch I mixed up. I used it to glue some 1/4" ply together at a 90
> degree angle to make a T. Radius of the fillet was about 1/2" on
> both sides - whatever the rounded end of the mixing stick I was
> using - and no glass tape. It's still in my garage and strong as
> can be. I've jumped up and down on it and done everything but drive
> my car over it and it's still together.
>
> I am curious if this can be used on seams in the boat. Not on long
> ply seams and such but say for bulkheads and frames where they
> attach to the sides or each other. I haven't gotten the knack yet
> for finishing the glass taped seam for that nice smooth finish. The
> edges of the tape give me fits. The test piece seam is very smooth
> and it would not take much to get it to a nice "finished" condition.
>
> I am just curious if anyone does this and what their experience has
> been.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doug
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
I put a fillet on the inside chines of my AF4 to seal and protect that
rot-prone area. I found that as the bottom worked, the fillet separated and
cracked in a few places. I'd say that filled epoxy may be too brittle to
work well without glass reinforcement. If I ever do it again, I'll glass
over any fillets.
JB
rot-prone area. I found that as the bottom worked, the fillet separated and
cracked in a few places. I'd say that filled epoxy may be too brittle to
work well without glass reinforcement. If I ever do it again, I'll glass
over any fillets.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Day" <daysatnight@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:15 AM
Subject: [bolger] Epoxy fillet sans glass
> Last year I had some excess epoxy thickened with carbosil from a
> batch I mixed up. I used it to glue some 1/4" ply together at a 90
> degree angle to make a T. Radius of the fillet was about 1/2" on
> both sides - whatever the rounded end of the mixing stick I was
> using - and no glass tape. It's still in my garage and strong as
> can be. I've jumped up and down on it and done everything but drive
> my car over it and it's still together.
>
> I am curious if this can be used on seams in the boat. Not on long
> ply seams and such but say for bulkheads and frames where they
> attach to the sides or each other. I haven't gotten the knack yet
> for finishing the glass taped seam for that nice smooth finish. The
> edges of the tape give me fits. The test piece seam is very smooth
> and it would not take much to get it to a nice "finished" condition.
>
> I am just curious if anyone does this and what their experience has
> been.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doug
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Last year I had some excess epoxy thickened with carbosil from a
batch I mixed up. I used it to glue some 1/4" ply together at a 90
degree angle to make a T. Radius of the fillet was about 1/2" on
both sides - whatever the rounded end of the mixing stick I was
using - and no glass tape. It's still in my garage and strong as
can be. I've jumped up and down on it and done everything but drive
my car over it and it's still together.
I am curious if this can be used on seams in the boat. Not on long
ply seams and such but say for bulkheads and frames where they
attach to the sides or each other. I haven't gotten the knack yet
for finishing the glass taped seam for that nice smooth finish. The
edges of the tape give me fits. The test piece seam is very smooth
and it would not take much to get it to a nice "finished" condition.
I am just curious if anyone does this and what their experience has
been.
Thanks,
Doug
batch I mixed up. I used it to glue some 1/4" ply together at a 90
degree angle to make a T. Radius of the fillet was about 1/2" on
both sides - whatever the rounded end of the mixing stick I was
using - and no glass tape. It's still in my garage and strong as
can be. I've jumped up and down on it and done everything but drive
my car over it and it's still together.
I am curious if this can be used on seams in the boat. Not on long
ply seams and such but say for bulkheads and frames where they
attach to the sides or each other. I haven't gotten the knack yet
for finishing the glass taped seam for that nice smooth finish. The
edges of the tape give me fits. The test piece seam is very smooth
and it would not take much to get it to a nice "finished" condition.
I am just curious if anyone does this and what their experience has
been.
Thanks,
Doug