Re: steam bending?
Thanks Bruce!
I'm sure glad you built yours first and can walk me through it :)
That .gif link explains your gaff yard i've been eyeballing......i
couldn't quite figure what you had done. That cutting trick will do
my pilot house beams and yard nicely. I found some clear 2x2 by 4
foot red oak stock on closeout for cheap at a local store and i
figured they would make some nice rails or something so i bought a
bunch for less than fir. Don't think i can cut a curve into them
though.....my table saw can hardly rip that stuff. Maybe i'll use
them for the hatch rails and and the straight hand rails on the
pilot house top. Already ripped two up into .5" strips and laminated
it for my forward hatch, looks really nice, i'll do the same for the
sliding hatch.
I coperpoxyied (the homemade copper flake kind) the bottom today
nice color and flow. I gave up fairing the bottom and sanding the
glass, that crap cuts right through tyvek overalls and itches like
mad, figure it will be under water and i won't have to look at it
anyhow. How much slower can a medium/heavy displacement 15 foot
pocket cruiser get anyhow :)
I'll thicken up the second coat hopefully it won't brush mark too
bad. So happy i'll be done with the bottom by nightfall! I want to
get those bunks finished and get the decks on so i can get her in
the yard. Staring at the bottom for 3 weeks has been kind of
depressing. Considering how much i've got done and need to do to the
inside.
Jason
I'm sure glad you built yours first and can walk me through it :)
That .gif link explains your gaff yard i've been eyeballing......i
couldn't quite figure what you had done. That cutting trick will do
my pilot house beams and yard nicely. I found some clear 2x2 by 4
foot red oak stock on closeout for cheap at a local store and i
figured they would make some nice rails or something so i bought a
bunch for less than fir. Don't think i can cut a curve into them
though.....my table saw can hardly rip that stuff. Maybe i'll use
them for the hatch rails and and the straight hand rails on the
pilot house top. Already ripped two up into .5" strips and laminated
it for my forward hatch, looks really nice, i'll do the same for the
sliding hatch.
I coperpoxyied (the homemade copper flake kind) the bottom today
nice color and flow. I gave up fairing the bottom and sanding the
glass, that crap cuts right through tyvek overalls and itches like
mad, figure it will be under water and i won't have to look at it
anyhow. How much slower can a medium/heavy displacement 15 foot
pocket cruiser get anyhow :)
I'll thicken up the second coat hopefully it won't brush mark too
bad. So happy i'll be done with the bottom by nightfall! I want to
get those bunks finished and get the decks on so i can get her in
the yard. Staring at the bottom for 3 weeks has been kind of
depressing. Considering how much i've got done and need to do to the
inside.
Jason
rec.woodworking has a steam bending FAQ.
http://www.rtpnet.org/robroy/baidarka/bending.html
The MAIB article you point to describes steam bending
1/2" thick material. Wood gets much harder to
bend at thicker dimensions.
On my Micro Navigator, the only wood I needed to
steam bend was the tight radius wood trim at
the 'round' corners of the cabin windows. I bent these
out of semi-green clear D.Fir 1/2" square stock. It went
very badly, but epoxy goop covers up my mistakes.
Other curved members, deck beams, roof beam,
deck rails, I just cut on a curve using my Skilsaw.
A Skilsaw can cut a curve of up to an inch a foot
pretty easily, and that is all you need for the
deck and roof beams. If you are worried about
wastage of wood when cutting a curved beam,
[or, if you need several beams of matching radius]
you can use this trick:
http://hallman.org/CurvedBeam.gif
Cut a board once down the middle at the desired
radius, exchange the top for the bottom and epoxy
glue back together, using a Skilsaw [or jig saw] with a
ripping guide set to the desired beam width, rip
in to multiple idential beams.
Another good option is to laminate and glue up beams
on a curve from strips, which is what I did for one of my
deck beams.
On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 14:08:33 -0000, Jason Stancil
<jasonstancil@...> wrote:
http://www.rtpnet.org/robroy/baidarka/bending.html
The MAIB article you point to describes steam bending
1/2" thick material. Wood gets much harder to
bend at thicker dimensions.
On my Micro Navigator, the only wood I needed to
steam bend was the tight radius wood trim at
the 'round' corners of the cabin windows. I bent these
out of semi-green clear D.Fir 1/2" square stock. It went
very badly, but epoxy goop covers up my mistakes.
Other curved members, deck beams, roof beam,
deck rails, I just cut on a curve using my Skilsaw.
A Skilsaw can cut a curve of up to an inch a foot
pretty easily, and that is all you need for the
deck and roof beams. If you are worried about
wastage of wood when cutting a curved beam,
[or, if you need several beams of matching radius]
you can use this trick:
http://hallman.org/CurvedBeam.gif
Cut a board once down the middle at the desired
radius, exchange the top for the bottom and epoxy
glue back together, using a Skilsaw [or jig saw] with a
ripping guide set to the desired beam width, rip
in to multiple idential beams.
Another good option is to laminate and glue up beams
on a curve from strips, which is what I did for one of my
deck beams.
On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 14:08:33 -0000, Jason Stancil
<jasonstancil@...> wrote:
>
> Hey folks,
>
> question 432 in the micro building building process. I want to put
> some hand rails on my bow and stern decks and i'd like to match the
> curve of the sides. Let's talk about steam bending.
>
> I read this article in MAIB:
>http://www.messingaboutinboats.com/archives/mbissuefebruary01.html
> Either it's a bit nebulous or i'm a dummy. Can anyone clairify?
>
> How much past the desired curve do you bend (oak).....how much
> memory does the wood retain?....bounce back after steam bending?
>
> I'd like to try it and if it works do the same for my gallows and
> pilot house roof beams.
>
> I carved the bow and stern deck beams out of a huge conglomeration
> of stock and they are well, huge. It could hold a damn elephant
> upthere. Problem is it intrudes into living space a bit much. Got to
> do something different for the cabin beams.
>
> Anyone?
>
> Thanks,
> Jason
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
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Hey folks,
question 432 in the micro building building process. I want to put
some hand rails on my bow and stern decks and i'd like to match the
curve of the sides. Let's talk about steam bending.
I read this article in MAIB:
http://www.messingaboutinboats.com/archives/mbissuefebruary01.html
Either it's a bit nebulous or i'm a dummy. Can anyone clairify?
How much past the desired curve do you bend (oak).....how much
memory does the wood retain?....bounce back after steam bending?
I'd like to try it and if it works do the same for my gallows and
pilot house roof beams.
I carved the bow and stern deck beams out of a huge conglomeration
of stock and they are well, huge. It could hold a damn elephant
upthere. Problem is it intrudes into living space a bit much. Got to
do something different for the cabin beams.
Anyone?
Thanks,
Jason
question 432 in the micro building building process. I want to put
some hand rails on my bow and stern decks and i'd like to match the
curve of the sides. Let's talk about steam bending.
I read this article in MAIB:
http://www.messingaboutinboats.com/archives/mbissuefebruary01.html
Either it's a bit nebulous or i'm a dummy. Can anyone clairify?
How much past the desired curve do you bend (oak).....how much
memory does the wood retain?....bounce back after steam bending?
I'd like to try it and if it works do the same for my gallows and
pilot house roof beams.
I carved the bow and stern deck beams out of a huge conglomeration
of stock and they are well, huge. It could hold a damn elephant
upthere. Problem is it intrudes into living space a bit much. Got to
do something different for the cabin beams.
Anyone?
Thanks,
Jason