Re: Natural alternatives to Fibreglass cloth?

Just buy the darn fiberglass and be done with it!
It'll be much easier to deal with, as strong, and your boat will be
back in the water in no time!
It is summer after all... at least here on Cape Cod...!
Cheers!
:-)

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Justin Meddock" <jmeddock@n...>
wrote:
> Not really natural, but I have a couple of old delaminating
> Mylar/Kevlar sails laying around. I was thinking of pulling the
mylar off
> and using the kevlar cloth for FG repair work.
>
> Justin
Standard concrete like that in your driveway and most structural
concrete is 3000 psi minimum in 28 days. You can buy harder mixes,
up to 6000 psi, if you need it to resist higher point loading like
bulldozer cleats or vibrating machines. There are different types of
cement and many different admixtures.

Structural steel, ASTM A36, has a minimum yield point of 36,000 psi.
Most structural shapes are also available in a high strength steel
that is 50,000 psi minimum.

Charles

but strength
> figures for epoxy under 10kpsi. I think with ferro cement, the
cement
> might be able to take more of the compression load, as you
describe,
> and as I recall portland cement is ok in compression and terrible
in
> tension. I also seem to recall epoxy has some strength in both
tension
> and compression, but nothing like what you see with glass added.
?
The fiber provides compression strength too. The epoxy (or polyester
resin) just holds it in place so it doesn't buckle. And maybe some local
strength across the fibers. I seem to recall typical figures for
strength of laminates in the tens of thousands of psi, but strength
figures for epoxy under 10kpsi. I think with ferro cement, the cement
might be able to take more of the compression load, as you describe,
and as I recall portland cement is ok in compression and terrible in
tension. I also seem to recall epoxy has some strength in both tension
and compression, but nothing like what you see with glass added.

>donschultz8275 wrote:
>snip
>Actually you have it almost entirely backwards. The resin holds the
>shape and resists some compression loads, while the fibers provide
>the strength in most every tension load.
>
>This is always true, even in ferro/cement construction. The steel is
>the strength. The cement does little more than keep the water out.
>
>It is also true that the fibers MUST resist tension loads as even a
>little stretch will crack, crumble, and otherwise wreck the resin.
>
>
snip
BTW, what was that aircraft that turned into a bag?
You probably want to test the bond between epoxy and the salvaged Kevlar
real well before you invest too much labor.

I understand that most fibers for our work are coated with something to
encourage the epoxy to "wet" them. The sail material might be coated
differently. (One can't imagine the many different kinds of glass until
he's visited the Corning Glass Museum in Corning, New York.)

Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm

----- Original Message -----
From: "Justin Meddock" <jmeddock@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 7:21 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Natural alternatives to Fibreglass cloth?


> Not really natural, but I have a couple of old delaminating
> Mylar/Kevlar sails laying around. I was thinking of pulling the mylar off
> and using the kevlar cloth for FG repair work.
Not really natural, but I have a couple of old delaminating
Mylar/Kevlar sails laying around. I was thinking of pulling the mylar off
and using the kevlar cloth for FG repair work.

Justin
Thanks Lincoln,

I did not think of it that way, the cloth absorbing could actually make the
hull a hell of a lot heavier. Not good!! hey?

Thanks for the answers I appreciate the kindness.

Whenever in stunning Cape Town - South Africa, you know my number!!

Regards
Marius

Marius Lubbe
Creative MindsR HQ
Cape Town, South Africa
Phone: 082 785 7763
w <http://www.minds.co.za> ww.minds.co.za


_____

From: Lincoln Ross [mailto:lincolnr@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2004 11:31 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] RE: Re: Natural alternatives to Fibreglass cloth?


>
>
>Marius Lubbe wrote:
>Hi Guys,
>snip
>I take the point of the writer who said that natural fibres will suck up
>more epoxy and make the work heavier. That makes a lot of sense, and would
>be valid if you constructed a whole boat of just glass and resin. We
however
>a looking for the most durable, easiest to work and most affordable
solution
>for a single thin skin, that will also not check, (I believe its because
the
>fibres repel the resin, somewhat)!
>
Actually, for small boats of 1/4" (6mm) plywood, the fabric and epoxy
weight can be very significant. Particularly if you have to pick the
boat up. I seem to recall using most of a gallon on a dinghy. Probably 7
or 8 lbs. of epoxy and some additional weight of fabric. I'm not sure,
but I think the total weight of that boat is 60 lbs or less, so a large
fraction is in the coating and in the tapes. . I used 1 oz glass for the
coating, but it's not all that easy to use. Sure is cheap, tho.

>
>My thoughts are (and please I not a scientist) that it seems to me that the
>resin is the thing that actually does the power thing, whereas the glass,
or
>cloth or whatever seems to be the matrix that hold it all in shape and give
>it some bulk all over a large area in a uniform kind of way. My thinking
was
>impregnated natural fibre would be stronger than glass strands which is (it
>seems to me at least) a weak material. For example: If they made a cheap
>stainless steel cloth would that not be a fantastic almost bullet-proof
base
>cloth?
>
Glass fibers are very different from glass in your window. They are VERY
strong, comparable to carbon fiber (but not as stiff), 500,000 psi for
e glass (s glass is even stronger) according to a quick web search.
Glass fibers are pretty floppy compared to carbon, though. Also, any
such composite (including carbon, kevlar, etc.) will be much weaker than
the individual fibers. My guess is that on really thin coatings (less
epoxy, mind you), the glass helps to prevent checking with its superior
strength. I also guess that a coating with natural fibers would have to
be thicker to do the same job.

>
>You must please excuse my ignorance, but I am sure you will bear with my
>thinking somewhat out of the box. Actually it started with the book
Backyard
>boatbuilding which suggest using anything that gets a boat together and
>floating. I am not looking to do that, but am wondering whether we are
>conditioned by DuPont & co.to use the glass, without thinking about it. BTW
>what was invented first ? the glass or the epoxy? Was glass fibres invented
>first and then they started looking for a binding agent, to make it useful
>as a construction material?
>
Well, I don't think anyone has a monopoly anymore, if they ever did, and
glass is as cheap as any other fabric I've seen, or maybe cheaper. I
believe glass cloth and epoxy were invented seperately. I recall hearing
that lots of circuit boards were made out of glass cloth for WW2 and
afterwards all this surplus material was lying around.... I have the
impression that glass cloth was used with polyester resin first.

>
>I read somewhere about glass fibre boats not standing well up to knocks and
>cracking and crazing. Have you seen the little statuettes and models molded
>of resin. They look like they can stand being fired from a cannon, but
still
>is not too heavy!
>
>
I'll bet these boats were made with polyester resin, which is not as
resilient as epoxy. And even then, in my experience polyester resin and
glass can stand up to some pretty hard knocks. I suspect those "resin"
models are something else entirely. THere are about a gazillion plastics
available these days. Epoxy would probably be too slow to make any money
out of those expensive molds.

>Hope this is not starting to bore you, but I think we should explore all
the
>alternatives.
>
>Regards
>Marius
>




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Listen guys,

I want to thank you for sharing, I am learning quickly. Thanks to everyone,
there are too many to name, but I am grateful, and hope to be able to ask
some more "dumb" questions in the future, and being treated in the same kind
and respectful way!

Kind regards
Marius

Marius Lubbe
Creative MindsR HQ
Cape Town, South Africa
Phone: 082 785 7763

_____

From: donschultz8275 [mailto:donschultz@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 12:27 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Natural alternatives to Fibreglass cloth?


........My thoughts are (and please I not a scientist) that it seems
to me that the resin is the thing that actually does the power thing,
whereas the glass, or cloth or whatever seems to be the matrix that
hold it all in shape and give it some bulk all over a large area in a
uniform kind of way............


Actually you have it almost entirely backwards. The resin holds the
shape and resists some compression loads, while the fibers provide
the strength in most every tension load.

This is always true, even in ferro/cement construction. The steel is
the strength. The cement does little more than keep the water out.

It is also true that the fibers MUST resist tension loads as even a
little stretch will crack, crumble, and otherwise wreck the resin.

30 years ago there was a homebuilt aircraft which became popular
using a polyester varient fabric and epoxy w' foam as a internal
mold. If overstressed, the the epoxy broke up and the plane became a
cloth bag as it fell to earth.



Bolger rules!!!
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
........My thoughts are (and please I not a scientist) that it seems
to me that the resin is the thing that actually does the power thing,
whereas the glass, or cloth or whatever seems to be the matrix that
hold it all in shape and give it some bulk all over a large area in a
uniform kind of way............


Actually you have it almost entirely backwards. The resin holds the
shape and resists some compression loads, while the fibers provide
the strength in most every tension load.

This is always true, even in ferro/cement construction. The steel is
the strength. The cement does little more than keep the water out.

It is also true that the fibers MUST resist tension loads as even a
little stretch will crack, crumble, and otherwise wreck the resin.

30 years ago there was a homebuilt aircraft which became popular
using a polyester varient fabric and epoxy w' foam as a internal
mold. If overstressed, the the epoxy broke up and the plane became a
cloth bag as it fell to earth.
>
>
>Marius Lubbe wrote:
>Hi Guys,
>snip
>I take the point of the writer who said that natural fibres will suck up
>more epoxy and make the work heavier. That makes a lot of sense, and would
>be valid if you constructed a whole boat of just glass and resin. We however
>a looking for the most durable, easiest to work and most affordable solution
>for a single thin skin, that will also not check, (I believe its because the
>fibres repel the resin, somewhat)!
>
Actually, for small boats of 1/4" (6mm) plywood, the fabric and epoxy
weight can be very significant. Particularly if you have to pick the
boat up. I seem to recall using most of a gallon on a dinghy. Probably 7
or 8 lbs. of epoxy and some additional weight of fabric. I'm not sure,
but I think the total weight of that boat is 60 lbs or less, so a large
fraction is in the coating and in the tapes. . I used 1 oz glass for the
coating, but it's not all that easy to use. Sure is cheap, tho.

>
>My thoughts are (and please I not a scientist) that it seems to me that the
>resin is the thing that actually does the power thing, whereas the glass, or
>cloth or whatever seems to be the matrix that hold it all in shape and give
>it some bulk all over a large area in a uniform kind of way. My thinking was
>impregnated natural fibre would be stronger than glass strands which is (it
>seems to me at least) a weak material. For example: If they made a cheap
>stainless steel cloth would that not be a fantastic almost bullet-proof base
>cloth?
>
Glass fibers are very different from glass in your window. They are VERY
strong, comparable to carbon fiber (but not as stiff), 500,000 psi for
e glass (s glass is even stronger) according to a quick web search.
Glass fibers are pretty floppy compared to carbon, though. Also, any
such composite (including carbon, kevlar, etc.) will be much weaker than
the individual fibers. My guess is that on really thin coatings (less
epoxy, mind you), the glass helps to prevent checking with its superior
strength. I also guess that a coating with natural fibers would have to
be thicker to do the same job.

>
>You must please excuse my ignorance, but I am sure you will bear with my
>thinking somewhat out of the box. Actually it started with the book Backyard
>boatbuilding which suggest using anything that gets a boat together and
>floating. I am not looking to do that, but am wondering whether we are
>conditioned by DuPont & co.to use the glass, without thinking about it. BTW
>what was invented first ? the glass or the epoxy? Was glass fibres invented
>first and then they started looking for a binding agent, to make it useful
>as a construction material?
>
Well, I don't think anyone has a monopoly anymore, if they ever did, and
glass is as cheap as any other fabric I've seen, or maybe cheaper. I
believe glass cloth and epoxy were invented seperately. I recall hearing
that lots of circuit boards were made out of glass cloth for WW2 and
afterwards all this surplus material was lying around.... I have the
impression that glass cloth was used with polyester resin first.

>
>I read somewhere about glass fibre boats not standing well up to knocks and
>cracking and crazing. Have you seen the little statuettes and models molded
>of resin. They look like they can stand being fired from a cannon, but still
>is not too heavy!
>
>
I'll bet these boats were made with polyester resin, which is not as
resilient as epoxy. And even then, in my experience polyester resin and
glass can stand up to some pretty hard knocks. I suspect those "resin"
models are something else entirely. THere are about a gazillion plastics
available these days. Epoxy would probably be too slow to make any money
out of those expensive molds.

>Hope this is not starting to bore you, but I think we should explore all the
>alternatives.
>
>Regards
>Marius
>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@...>

> Actually, for small boats of 1/4" (6mm) plywood, the
> fabric and epoxy weight can be very significant.

Amen! I overdid it on Dadink and it came out at 100 lbs instead of the 80
lbs it was supposed to. Glassing the inside was a mistake.

> I have the impression that glass cloth was used with
> polyester resin first.

I think it was probably phenolic (which may be the same thing) and the
initial boards used paper, then linen, then fiberglass. I've got some
circuit components from the WW I era, and most steps in between. Anybody in
the market for a few dozen vacuum tube shields?

Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
Yes, and it absorbs epoxy like a sponge! I like most of xynole's
properties, but unless you are very careful in wetting it out it will turn
into a heavy and expensive coating.

David

_____

From: chodges31711 [mailto:chodges@...]
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 9:27 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Natural alternatives to Fibreglass cloth?


>
> 1. What is the reason for using a glass - based cloth?
>
> why not something that will accept proper impregnation like silk or
cotton
> or other natural fibre.

You can use a polyester like Xynole. It is not a natural fiber but it
does not itch like glass. That alone makes it easier to work with.

Charles



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- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Guys,

This has been very interesting; especially those replies that says we use
glass because its better......???

I take the point of the writer who said that natural fibres will suck up
more epoxy and make the work heavier. That makes a lot of sense, and would
be valid if you constructed a whole boat of just glass and resin. We however
a looking for the most durable, easiest to work and most affordable solution
for a single thin skin, that will also not check, (I believe its because the
fibres repel the resin, somewhat)!

My thoughts are (and please I not a scientist) that it seems to me that the
resin is the thing that actually does the power thing, whereas the glass, or
cloth or whatever seems to be the matrix that hold it all in shape and give
it some bulk all over a large area in a uniform kind of way. My thinking was
impregnated natural fibre would be stronger than glass strands which is (it
seems to me at least) a weak material. For example: If they made a cheap
stainless steel cloth would that not be a fantastic almost bullet-proof base
cloth?

You must please excuse my ignorance, but I am sure you will bear with my
thinking somewhat out of the box. Actually it started with the book Backyard
boatbuilding which suggest using anything that gets a boat together and
floating. I am not looking to do that, but am wondering whether we are
conditioned by DuPont & co.to use the glass, without thinking about it. BTW
what was invented first ? the glass or the epoxy? Was glass fibres invented
first and then they started looking for a binding agent, to make it useful
as a construction material?

I read somewhere about glass fibre boats not standing well up to knocks and
cracking and crazing. Have you seen the little statuettes and models molded
of resin. They look like they can stand being fired from a cannon, but still
is not too heavy!

Hope this is not starting to bore you, but I think we should explore all the
alternatives.

Regards
Marius


_____

From: Lincoln Ross [mailto:lincolnr@...]
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 9:28 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Natural alternatives to Fibreglass cloth?


Glass fibers are extremely strong, fairly elastic, and don't break down
easily. If the proper type is used (especially don't use mat), they wet
out just fine with epoxy. I'm sure "natural" fibers are MUCH weaker. I
have used very small amounts of glass cloth with nitrocellulose dope
with good results, but I'd guess this is weaker than epoxy. In my
experience, 1 oz. glass and epoxy are enough to prevent checking and are
very light when applied carefully..

Some people have reported successful use of flour. You want something
very fine and smooth, like white wheat flour. I'm guessing mechanical
properties are much worse than fumed silica, but maybe enough if the
fillet is glassed over.

>Marius Lubbe - Creative MindsR HQ
>Dear Friends,
>
>I am a novice in these things and therefore ask that you bear with me if my
>thoughts seem weird.
>
>1. What is the reason for using a glass - based cloth?
>
>why not something that will accept proper impregnation like silk or cotton
>or other natural fibre.
>
>
>2. In the same area of thought. can one use something like corn flour or
>some other plant flour as a thickening agent for epoxy fillets, if not why?
>
>Thanks
>Marius
>




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- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> 1. What is the reason for using a glass - based cloth?
>
> why not something that will accept proper impregnation like silk or
cotton
> or other natural fibre.

You can use a polyester like Xynole. It is not a natural fiber but it
does not itch like glass. That alone makes it easier to work with.

Charles
Sure, but glass is a fluid, and in a few thousand years, your hull shape
will be quite pear shaped.

Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm

----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard Stephenson" <stephensonhw@...>


> And glass would be unattractive to micro-organisms (e.g. bacteria,
> fungi), whereas certain kinds might like to eat plant material or
> silk. Glass is also more-or-less unaffected by most chemicals.
>
> Same possible problem with using wood flour to thicken epoxy, both
> chemical and biological. Limestone could be attacked by acids,
> possibly even mildly acidic rainwater/ Think of how limestone caves
> are formed.
>
> Howard

> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Marius Lubbe - Creative MindsR HQ" <marius@c...>
> >
> > > 1. What is the reason for using a glass - based cloth?
> >
> > Strength! Glass which is free of impurities and small fractures is
> one of
> > the strongest materials on earth. With fibers, the flaws have
> already
> > broken. The combination of incredibly strong glass fibers with the
> elastic
> > nature of the cured epoxy is what makes the result better than
> either
> > element alone.
> >
> > > why not something that will accept proper impregnation like silk
> or cotton
> > > or other natural fibre.
> >
> > Pretty weak stuff. Why add something that won't make the final
> product
> > better? Fiberglass cloth from an epoxy vendor is coated to promote
> the
> > bond.
> >
> > > 2. In the same area of thought. can one use something like corn
> flour or
> > > some other plant flour as a thickening agent for epoxy fillets,
> if not
> > why?
> >
> > Wood flour would seem to fall into this category, and it is my
> favorite
> > filler. Other fillers offer different characteristics; e.g. lime
> for a hard
> > coating, silica thickener for colorless coating, silicon carbide for
> > incredible hardness, ...
> >
> > One purpose for a filler is to provide thixotropic properties.
> Unthickened
> > epoxy runs and runs and runs. (A model railroader cast a fine lake
> of
> > unthickened epoxy. The next morning, all of the epoxy was on the
> floor.
> > He'd left a pinhole in the lake bed.) Not all additives provide
> this.
> >
> > Quoting from System Three's "The Epoxy Book:"
> > SECTION VI C
> > USING FILLERS WITH EPOXY RESIN
> > System Three epoxy properly mixed is intended for both coating and
> > fiberglassing. When used "right out of the jug", the mixture is
> said to be
> > "unfilled" and it is too thin to be used as a gap filling adhesive
> or for
> > fairing and filleting compounds. For these applications certain
> fillers are
> > added. These materials change the flow and density characteristics
> of the
> > epoxy system.
> >
> > All fillers sold for use with System Three epoxy products are solid
> > materials, falling into four general classes: thixotropic agents,
> bulking
> > agents, fibrous fillers, and pigments. There is some overlapping as
> to
> > function of certain fillers. For example, plastic minifibers is
> both fibrous
> > and acts also as a thixotropic agent.
> > Silica thickener (Cab-O-Sil), plastic minifibers and wood flourare
> > thixotropic agents. They turn the epoxy into a thixotropic fluid.
> Most
> > people are not familiar with the term "thixotropic" though everyone
> is
> > familiar with the properties of these fluids. They flow under
> shear stress
> > but do not flow once the stress is removed. Ketchup and latex house
> paints
> > are thixotropic fluids. Adding these agents to the mixed resin and
> hardener
> > produces a fluid which will easily flow under the spreading stress
> of a
> > putty knife. Once the stress is removed the thickened epoxy retains
> shape.
> > In short, these fillers make the epoxy non-sagging, being added to
> restrict
> > drainage and make gap filling adhesives.
> >
> > Phenolic microballoons, quartz microspheres, and wood flour are
> bulking
> > agents. They "bulk out" the epoxy making a lightweight putty like
> mix.
> > Although all these thicken the epoxy, only wood flour will make it
> > thixotropic. Attempting to add sufficient microballoons or
> microspheres to
> > make a non-sagging fairing putty will result in one that spreads
> poorly.
> > These materials should be used along with a thixotropic agent.
> Silica
> > thickener is the best choice because it produces the smoothest
> compound.
> >
> > Chopped glass strands, milled glass fibers, and plastic minifibers
> are
> > fibrous materials that can be incorporated into structural
> filleting putties
> > to improve tensile strength, and are listed above in descending
> order of
> > tensile strength improvement.
> >
> > +++++++++++++++++++++++
> > Lots of good stuff in this free publication, and it applies to most
> epoxy
> > vendor's products.
> >
> > Roger
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
And glass would be unattractive to micro-organisms (e.g. bacteria,
fungi), whereas certain kinds might like to eat plant material or
silk. Glass is also more-or-less unaffected by most chemicals.

Same possible problem with using wood flour to thicken epoxy, both
chemical and biological. Limestone could be attacked by acids,
possibly even mildly acidic rainwater/ Think of how limestone caves
are formed.

Howard

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marius Lubbe - Creative MindsR HQ" <marius@c...>
>
> > 1. What is the reason for using a glass - based cloth?
>
> Strength! Glass which is free of impurities and small fractures is
one of
> the strongest materials on earth. With fibers, the flaws have
already
> broken. The combination of incredibly strong glass fibers with the
elastic
> nature of the cured epoxy is what makes the result better than
either
> element alone.
>
> > why not something that will accept proper impregnation like silk
or cotton
> > or other natural fibre.
>
> Pretty weak stuff. Why add something that won't make the final
product
> better? Fiberglass cloth from an epoxy vendor is coated to promote
the
> bond.
>
> > 2. In the same area of thought. can one use something like corn
flour or
> > some other plant flour as a thickening agent for epoxy fillets,
if not
> why?
>
> Wood flour would seem to fall into this category, and it is my
favorite
> filler. Other fillers offer different characteristics; e.g. lime
for a hard
> coating, silica thickener for colorless coating, silicon carbide for
> incredible hardness, ...
>
> One purpose for a filler is to provide thixotropic properties.
Unthickened
> epoxy runs and runs and runs. (A model railroader cast a fine lake
of
> unthickened epoxy. The next morning, all of the epoxy was on the
floor.
> He'd left a pinhole in the lake bed.) Not all additives provide
this.
>
> Quoting from System Three's "The Epoxy Book:"
> SECTION VI C
> USING FILLERS WITH EPOXY RESIN
> System Three epoxy properly mixed is intended for both coating and
> fiberglassing. When used "right out of the jug", the mixture is
said to be
> "unfilled" and it is too thin to be used as a gap filling adhesive
or for
> fairing and filleting compounds. For these applications certain
fillers are
> added. These materials change the flow and density characteristics
of the
> epoxy system.
>
> All fillers sold for use with System Three epoxy products are solid
> materials, falling into four general classes: thixotropic agents,
bulking
> agents, fibrous fillers, and pigments. There is some overlapping as
to
> function of certain fillers. For example, plastic minifibers is
both fibrous
> and acts also as a thixotropic agent.
> Silica thickener (Cab-O-Sil), plastic minifibers and wood flourare
> thixotropic agents. They turn the epoxy into a thixotropic fluid.
Most
> people are not familiar with the term "thixotropic" though everyone
is
> familiar with the properties of these fluids. They flow under
shear stress
> but do not flow once the stress is removed. Ketchup and latex house
paints
> are thixotropic fluids. Adding these agents to the mixed resin and
hardener
> produces a fluid which will easily flow under the spreading stress
of a
> putty knife. Once the stress is removed the thickened epoxy retains
shape.
> In short, these fillers make the epoxy non-sagging, being added to
restrict
> drainage and make gap filling adhesives.
>
> Phenolic microballoons, quartz microspheres, and wood flour are
bulking
> agents. They "bulk out" the epoxy making a lightweight putty like
mix.
> Although all these thicken the epoxy, only wood flour will make it
> thixotropic. Attempting to add sufficient microballoons or
microspheres to
> make a non-sagging fairing putty will result in one that spreads
poorly.
> These materials should be used along with a thixotropic agent.
Silica
> thickener is the best choice because it produces the smoothest
compound.
>
> Chopped glass strands, milled glass fibers, and plastic minifibers
are
> fibrous materials that can be incorporated into structural
filleting putties
> to improve tensile strength, and are listed above in descending
order of
> tensile strength improvement.
>
> +++++++++++++++++++++++
> Lots of good stuff in this free publication, and it applies to most
epoxy
> vendor's products.
>
> Roger
I'm not sure what your source is, but I don't believe this figure. I
just did a quick web search and got a figure of 200,000 psi. Then the
same site says it's several times that of steel. Not true. If you take a
piece of fine music wire, you can expect it to be stronger than that.
(Small Parts claims min. 220kpsi on their music wire). I recall Kevlar
and glass fibers are even stronger than that. And spider silk is very
stretchy, so the epoxy may fail first. THere are reasons we use glass
cloth on boats. (Kevlar, besides being expensive, is lousy in compression)

>snip Something like 200+ times(total guess i read this a
>while back) stronger than steel
>
>Glad to see biodegradable fishing line but kind of a scary way to go
>about it.
>
>Jason
>
Glass fibers are extremely strong, fairly elastic, and don't break down
easily. If the proper type is used (especially don't use mat), they wet
out just fine with epoxy. I'm sure "natural" fibers are MUCH weaker. I
have used very small amounts of glass cloth with nitrocellulose dope
with good results, but I'd guess this is weaker than epoxy. In my
experience, 1 oz. glass and epoxy are enough to prevent checking and are
very light when applied carefully..

Some people have reported successful use of flour. You want something
very fine and smooth, like white wheat flour. I'm guessing mechanical
properties are much worse than fumed silica, but maybe enough if the
fillet is glassed over.

>Marius Lubbe - Creative MindsR HQ
>Dear Friends,
>
>I am a novice in these things and therefore ask that you bear with me if my
>thoughts seem weird.
>
>1. What is the reason for using a glass - based cloth?
>
>why not something that will accept proper impregnation like silk or cotton
>or other natural fibre.
>
>
>2. In the same area of thought. can one use something like corn flour or
>some other plant flour as a thickening agent for epoxy fillets, if not why?
>
>Thanks
>Marius
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> They have put a spider gene in goats, so as the silk is produced in
> the goat's mammary glands. When the goat is milked the "silk"
> somehow precipitates into strands out of the milk.

Kind of brings a whole new meaning to belly button lint...8^0

Scott Calman
> They have put a spider gene in goats,..

The cow idea was too close for comfort.

But, if they put it in a fish, maybe it could net itself!
I guess my first question would be why not use fiberglass cloth as it is a
proven effective product. Aside from the fact that fibers can be irritating
if used carelessly it works well in boat building. To get away from the
itch dynel fabric is an excellent but more expensive alternative. Strong,
reliable and no itch.
Grant in Vermont about two weeks away from launching my repro 1929 cabin
cruiser (I hope)

on 6/28/04 6:12 AM, Marius Lubbe - Creative MindsR HQ at
marius@...wrote:

> Dear Friends,
>
> I am a novice in these things and therefore ask that you bear with me if my
> thoughts seem weird.
>
> 1. What is the reason for using a glass - based cloth?
>
> why not something that will accept proper impregnation like silk or cotton
> or other natural fibre.
>
>
> 2. In the same area of thought. can one use something like corn flour or
> some other plant flour as a thickening agent for epoxy fillets, if not why?
>
> Thanks
> Marius
>
> Marius Lubbe
> Creative MindsR HQ
> Cape Town, South Africa
> Phone: 082 785 7763
> www.minds.co.za
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
They have put a spider gene in goats, so as the silk is produced in
the goat's mammary glands. When the goat is milked the "silk"
somehow precipitates into strands out of the milk. Folks are looking
at develping this stuff for biodegradible fishing line and as a
suture material. Something like 200+ times(total guess i read this a
while back) stronger than steel

Glad to see biodegradable fishing line but kind of a scary way to go
about it.

Jason
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@y...>
wrote:
> > Don't you need some kind of special tree to encourage/optimize
> silk worm
> > production?
>
> Mulberry bushes, IIRC from elementary school.
>
> There was an annoucement lately about artifical silk production. I
> forget if it was straight chemical or if, more likely, it had to
do
> with putting a silkworm gene in a spider (or some other, more
> tractable animal). I hope they don't put it in a cow!
>
> Peter
> Don't you need some kind of special tree to encourage/optimize
silk worm
> production?

Mulberry bushes, IIRC from elementary school.

There was an annoucement lately about artifical silk production. I
forget if it was straight chemical or if, more likely, it had to do
with putting a silkworm gene in a spider (or some other, more
tractable animal). I hope they don't put it in a cow!

Peter
Silk does ring a bell, but I've no idea where to look further After pricing
vinyl for smoothing, I'm going to experiment further with Peel-Ply ... but
that's the approach we don't want for reinforcing..

Spider webs do well too, and here in Southern Indiana we have many, many,
very industrious spiders drifting around on their one strand parachutes.
You may be onto something here.

Don't you need some kind of special tree to encourage/optimize silk worm
production?

Roger (Dow-Corning doesn't have the only effective spinerets.)
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm

----- Original Message -----
From: "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@...>


> > > 1. What is the reason for using a glass - based cloth?
> > Strength!
>
> They do say that silk is very strong. However, the has to be a match
> between the tensile and compressive strength coefficients between
> the fiber and the resin. And I don't know if it would wet out
> properly, or if there is chemical compatibility.
> > 1. What is the reason for using a glass - based cloth?
> Strength!


They do say that silk is very strong. However, the has to be a match
between the tensile and compressive strength coefficients between
the fiber and the resin. And I don't know if it would wet out
properly, or if there is chemical compatibility.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marius Lubbe - Creative MindsR HQ" <marius@...>

> 1. What is the reason for using a glass - based cloth?

Strength! Glass which is free of impurities and small fractures is one of
the strongest materials on earth. With fibers, the flaws have already
broken. The combination of incredibly strong glass fibers with the elastic
nature of the cured epoxy is what makes the result better than either
element alone.

> why not something that will accept proper impregnation like silk or cotton
> or other natural fibre.

Pretty weak stuff. Why add something that won't make the final product
better? Fiberglass cloth from an epoxy vendor is coated to promote the
bond.

> 2. In the same area of thought. can one use something like corn flour or
> some other plant flour as a thickening agent for epoxy fillets, if not
why?

Wood flour would seem to fall into this category, and it is my favorite
filler. Other fillers offer different characteristics; e.g. lime for a hard
coating, silica thickener for colorless coating, silicon carbide for
incredible hardness, ...

One purpose for a filler is to provide thixotropic properties. Unthickened
epoxy runs and runs and runs. (A model railroader cast a fine lake of
unthickened epoxy. The next morning, all of the epoxy was on the floor.
He'd left a pinhole in the lake bed.) Not all additives provide this.

Quoting from System Three's "The Epoxy Book:"
SECTION VI C
USING FILLERS WITH EPOXY RESIN
System Three epoxy properly mixed is intended for both coating and
fiberglassing. When used "right out of the jug", the mixture is said to be
"unfilled" and it is too thin to be used as a gap filling adhesive or for
fairing and filleting compounds. For these applications certain fillers are
added. These materials change the flow and density characteristics of the
epoxy system.

All fillers sold for use with System Three epoxy products are solid
materials, falling into four general classes: thixotropic agents, bulking
agents, fibrous fillers, and pigments. There is some overlapping as to
function of certain fillers. For example, plastic minifibers is both fibrous
and acts also as a thixotropic agent.
Silica thickener (Cab-O-Sil), plastic minifibers and wood flourare
thixotropic agents. They turn the epoxy into a thixotropic fluid. Most
people are not familiar with the term "thixotropic" though everyone is
familiar with the properties of these fluids. They flow under shear stress
but do not flow once the stress is removed. Ketchup and latex house paints
are thixotropic fluids. Adding these agents to the mixed resin and hardener
produces a fluid which will easily flow under the spreading stress of a
putty knife. Once the stress is removed the thickened epoxy retains shape.
In short, these fillers make the epoxy non-sagging, being added to restrict
drainage and make gap filling adhesives.

Phenolic microballoons, quartz microspheres, and wood flour are bulking
agents. They "bulk out" the epoxy making a lightweight putty like mix.
Although all these thicken the epoxy, only wood flour will make it
thixotropic. Attempting to add sufficient microballoons or microspheres to
make a non-sagging fairing putty will result in one that spreads poorly.
These materials should be used along with a thixotropic agent. Silica
thickener is the best choice because it produces the smoothest compound.

Chopped glass strands, milled glass fibers, and plastic minifibers are
fibrous materials that can be incorporated into structural filleting putties
to improve tensile strength, and are listed above in descending order of
tensile strength improvement.

+++++++++++++++++++++++
Lots of good stuff in this free publication, and it applies to most epoxy
vendor's products.

Roger
>1. What is the reason for using a glass - based cloth?
>
>why not something that will accept proper impregnation like silk or cotton
>or other natural fibre.

Strength, I imagine. You could use any cloth. Burlap, for example.

Note that epoxy is heavier than the cloth, so you want something that will
fill with epoxy without soaking it up. Soaking the cloth only means more
weight and more $ spent for epoxy.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________

-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
>2. In the same area of thought. can one use something like corn flour or
>some other plant flour as a thickening agent for epoxy fillets, if not why?

Any flour will work. Cornstarch, powdered limestone, wood flour.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________

-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
Dear Friends,

I am a novice in these things and therefore ask that you bear with me if my
thoughts seem weird.

1. What is the reason for using a glass - based cloth?

why not something that will accept proper impregnation like silk or cotton
or other natural fibre.


2. In the same area of thought. can one use something like corn flour or
some other plant flour as a thickening agent for epoxy fillets, if not why?

Thanks
Marius

Marius Lubbe
Creative MindsR HQ
Cape Town, South Africa
Phone: 082 785 7763
www.minds.co.za


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]