Re: Treating Plywood for checking
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, grant corson <corson@a...> wrote:
in automotive paint reducers. I mention xylene specifically because it
seems to have the least ill effects on epoxy strength.
Many other solvents work just as well if all you want to do is make a
penetrating epoxy. Methyl or denatured alcohol, acetone or just about
any automotive paint reducer will work fine. I use acrylic enamel
reducer because I have several gallons stashed away.
Those of you who were on some of the old egroups boat lists remember a
product called CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealant). It had such a
religous following that to suggest the possibility of making it
yourself got you verbally assaulted. Turns out it was just generic
epoxy with about 40% solvent added. The guy made a killing for a few
years. Can't blame him for that but the CPES cult was reminiscent of
Wharram catamaran groupies. Weird!
Doug
> Doug, I never heard of xylene, is that something available at ahardware
> store? Sounds greatXylene is available at most paint stores. It is one of the ingredients
in automotive paint reducers. I mention xylene specifically because it
seems to have the least ill effects on epoxy strength.
Many other solvents work just as well if all you want to do is make a
penetrating epoxy. Methyl or denatured alcohol, acetone or just about
any automotive paint reducer will work fine. I use acrylic enamel
reducer because I have several gallons stashed away.
Those of you who were on some of the old egroups boat lists remember a
product called CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealant). It had such a
religous following that to suggest the possibility of making it
yourself got you verbally assaulted. Turns out it was just generic
epoxy with about 40% solvent added. The guy made a killing for a few
years. Can't blame him for that but the CPES cult was reminiscent of
Wharram catamaran groupies. Weird!
Doug
It is a paint thinner or vehicle for certain industrial enamels. A
paint store should have it.
paint store should have it.
> Doug, I never heard of xylene, is that something available at ahardware
> store? Sounds great
> Grant
Doug, I never heard of xylene, is that something available at a hardware
store? Sounds great
Grant
on 6/28/04 4:03 PM, doug6949 atprototype@...wrote:
store? Sounds great
Grant
on 6/28/04 4:03 PM, doug6949 atprototype@...wrote:
> By thinning epoxy with xylene you can get wood to suck it up like a
> sponge. I recently did this with some shelves for a kitchen cabinet.
> They look like oil rubbed natural wood but are hard like plastic.
>
> Using 30-40% xylene, the epoxy becomes as thin as water. If you use a
> very slow hardener at low working temperature it is possible to soak
> the wood for several hours.
>
> Doug
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Chris Crandall <crandall@u...> wrote:
> SNIP
>>
>> The second is to fill up the pores of the wood, discouraging
> entrance of
>> solid water or humidity. This is done with some kind of coating,
> and
>> apparently Penetrol is one possibility. The classic method is a
> series of
>> coatings, starting with linseed oil (unboiled!) and solvent, then
> more
>> linseed oil, and finishing your last coat with boild linseed oil.
>> This is what I recommend.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Plain old de-natured alcohol will work as well. At least with the RAKA epoxy, it only takes about 10% to maybe 15% alcohol to get it thin like water.
Jeff
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: doug6949
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 2:03 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Treating Plywood for checking
By thinning epoxy with xylene you can get wood to suck it up like a
sponge. I recently did this with some shelves for a kitchen cabinet.
They look like oil rubbed natural wood but are hard like plastic.
Using 30-40% xylene, the epoxy becomes as thin as water. If you use a
very slow hardener at low working temperature it is possible to soak
the wood for several hours.
Doug
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Chris Crandall <crandall@u...> wrote:
SNIP
>
> The second is to fill up the pores of the wood, discouraging
entrance of
> solid water or humidity. This is done with some kind of coating,
and
> apparently Penetrol is one possibility. The classic method is a
series of
> coatings, starting with linseed oil (unboiled!) and solvent, then
more
> linseed oil, and finishing your last coat with boild linseed oil.
> This is what I recommend.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
By thinning epoxy with xylene you can get wood to suck it up like a
sponge. I recently did this with some shelves for a kitchen cabinet.
They look like oil rubbed natural wood but are hard like plastic.
Using 30-40% xylene, the epoxy becomes as thin as water. If you use a
very slow hardener at low working temperature it is possible to soak
the wood for several hours.
Doug
sponge. I recently did this with some shelves for a kitchen cabinet.
They look like oil rubbed natural wood but are hard like plastic.
Using 30-40% xylene, the epoxy becomes as thin as water. If you use a
very slow hardener at low working temperature it is possible to soak
the wood for several hours.
Doug
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Chris Crandall <crandall@u...> wrote:
SNIP
>
> The second is to fill up the pores of the wood, discouraging
entrance of
> solid water or humidity. This is done with some kind of coating,
and
> apparently Penetrol is one possibility. The classic method is a
series of
> coatings, starting with linseed oil (unboiled!) and solvent, then
more
> linseed oil, and finishing your last coat with boild linseed oil.
> This is what I recommend.
First of all, it's douglas fir plywood that is the big checker. Checking
comes from differential expansion or earlywood/latewood due to moisture
cycling. It's bad enough to pull the woodgrain apart.
There are two good ways to stop it, and both of them deal with suppressing
moisture cycling.
The first is to encapsulate the wood. This is the obvious epoxy solution,
and it works best with fiberglass (which keeps enough epoxy on the
surface, acting as a scrim, among other pathways). Pure epoxy works, in a
fashion, but less effectively than with glass.
The second is to fill up the pores of the wood, discouraging entrance of
solid water or humidity. This is done with some kind of coating, and
apparently Penetrol is one possibility. The classic method is a series of
coatings, starting with linseed oil (unboiled!) and solvent, then more
linseed oil, and finishing your last coat with boild linseed oil.
This is what I recommend.
Can you mix linseed oil or penetrol with epoxy? Yes, but only if you do
it the right way.
If you are using epoxy as a glue, and/or are taping the chines or joints,
then you *must* first do all your epoxy work. Then, when finished with
this, you may then flood all exposed surfaces with plenty of linseed oil,
etc. After this, you may then finish your wood in an appropriate fashion,
including varnish (but why varnish rotary-cut DF--yuck!), or priming and
painting (a light color is recommended to keep the heat cycling of the
wood down).
Chris Crandallcrandall@...(785) 864-4131
Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045
I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.
comes from differential expansion or earlywood/latewood due to moisture
cycling. It's bad enough to pull the woodgrain apart.
There are two good ways to stop it, and both of them deal with suppressing
moisture cycling.
The first is to encapsulate the wood. This is the obvious epoxy solution,
and it works best with fiberglass (which keeps enough epoxy on the
surface, acting as a scrim, among other pathways). Pure epoxy works, in a
fashion, but less effectively than with glass.
The second is to fill up the pores of the wood, discouraging entrance of
solid water or humidity. This is done with some kind of coating, and
apparently Penetrol is one possibility. The classic method is a series of
coatings, starting with linseed oil (unboiled!) and solvent, then more
linseed oil, and finishing your last coat with boild linseed oil.
This is what I recommend.
Can you mix linseed oil or penetrol with epoxy? Yes, but only if you do
it the right way.
If you are using epoxy as a glue, and/or are taping the chines or joints,
then you *must* first do all your epoxy work. Then, when finished with
this, you may then flood all exposed surfaces with plenty of linseed oil,
etc. After this, you may then finish your wood in an appropriate fashion,
including varnish (but why varnish rotary-cut DF--yuck!), or priming and
painting (a light color is recommended to keep the heat cycling of the
wood down).
Chris Crandallcrandall@...(785) 864-4131
Department of Psychology University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045
I have data convincingly disconfirming the Duhem-Quine hypothesis.