Re: MDO - The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "William_Benham"
<william_benham@y...> wrote:
"Guardian" is Olympic's bottom-of-the-line MDO;
"Two-step," which I believe used to be called
"Crezon," is the next step up- the improvements
being mainly in that the faces recieve extra
sanding. The cores of these two are about the same.
"Signal" is the best, with better veneers/cores,
but Signal is only available down to 1/2", I
believe, while Guardian and Two-Step are availble
down to 5/16"
All of the above are made "single-sided" and also
"two-sided," but don't hold your breath while
looking for a lumber yard that stocks the thin
sheets in double-sided.
Interestingly, Olympic's web site specifically
mentions that Guardian has been used for "boat hulls."
Back before Olympic bought them out, predecessor
Simpson used to advertise that Crezon (Two-step) was
sometimes used for "boat hulls."
Max
<william_benham@y...> wrote:
>by
> Hi List,
>
> I picked up some MDO from a local wholesaler for a boat building
> project I'm getting ready for (an instant boat style cat-yawl scow
> Conrad Natzio). The only unprimed MDO in 3/8" they had on handwas
> Olympic Guardian, with the overlay on a single side. The overlay(some
> side looks good, but the back is C grade with bunches of knots
> open/missing), splits, etc. I'm thinking that I'll probably haveto
> fill all the holes and the put a layer of 4 oz. glass and epoxy onit
> to make it look halfway decent. The condition of the back veneerlook
> sorta makes me worry about voids in the core, although the edges
> good void wise.glass.
>
> So, did I buy the wrong stuff? If so, what should I have been
> looking for?
>
> Is there something else I can do to make that C face look better,
> other than glass it? The reason I wanted to try the MDO was so I
> could get a good finish without having to resort to epoxy and
>Not all MDO is created equal:
> I'd appreciate any feedback.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
"Guardian" is Olympic's bottom-of-the-line MDO;
"Two-step," which I believe used to be called
"Crezon," is the next step up- the improvements
being mainly in that the faces recieve extra
sanding. The cores of these two are about the same.
"Signal" is the best, with better veneers/cores,
but Signal is only available down to 1/2", I
believe, while Guardian and Two-Step are availble
down to 5/16"
All of the above are made "single-sided" and also
"two-sided," but don't hold your breath while
looking for a lumber yard that stocks the thin
sheets in double-sided.
Interestingly, Olympic's web site specifically
mentions that Guardian has been used for "boat hulls."
Back before Olympic bought them out, predecessor
Simpson used to advertise that Crezon (Two-step) was
sometimes used for "boat hulls."
Max
Well, what you bought doesn't gybe with my experience. About five years ago
I bought several sheets of 1/2" and 3/4", paying about $46 USD per 1/2"
sheet, and I was delighted with the stuff. It was about half the price of
BS1088 Okume and it was fine, double-sided material.
As I understand it, fiberglass is to make the epoxy better stand up to
abuse. If the C side isn't going to see high traffic, simple filling with
thickened epoxy might do. Then again, is the core fir? If so, the glass
might be needed to prevent checking.
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
I bought several sheets of 1/2" and 3/4", paying about $46 USD per 1/2"
sheet, and I was delighted with the stuff. It was about half the price of
BS1088 Okume and it was fine, double-sided material.
As I understand it, fiberglass is to make the epoxy better stand up to
abuse. If the C side isn't going to see high traffic, simple filling with
thickened epoxy might do. Then again, is the core fir? If so, the glass
might be needed to prevent checking.
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "William_Benham" <william_benham@...>
> I picked up some MDO from a local wholesaler for a boat building
> project I'm getting ready for (an instant boat style cat-yawl scow by
> Conrad Natzio). The only unprimed MDO in 3/8" they had on hand was
> Olympic Guardian, with the overlay on a single side. The overlay
> side looks good, but the back is C grade with bunches of knots (some
> open/missing), splits, etc. I'm thinking that I'll probably have to
> fill all the holes and the put a layer of 4 oz. glass and epoxy on it
> to make it look halfway decent. The condition of the back veneer
> sorta makes me worry about voids in the core, although the edges look
> good void wise.
>
> So, did I buy the wrong stuff? If so, what should I have been
> looking for?
>
> Is there something else I can do to make that C face look better,
> other than glass it? The reason I wanted to try the MDO was so I
> could get a good finish without having to resort to epoxy and glass.
I used the two sided olympic 3/8" MDO on my micro and i saw nary a
void while cutting. Good cores throughout. However i did have three
spots where the overlay was slightly bubbled (delaminating?). I
worked around two of them and the third didn't get noticed untill it
was the rear port quarter of the hull.....this really pissed me off
and i swear next time it will be marine fir and okumme all around.
Long story short i ground out a 12" diameter spot.....good bit
larger than the problem area. That face under there was hideous and
knotty but solid. I then laid dynel in the hollow then coated with
micro ballons, looks good now but it may show through the paint.
Jason
void while cutting. Good cores throughout. However i did have three
spots where the overlay was slightly bubbled (delaminating?). I
worked around two of them and the third didn't get noticed untill it
was the rear port quarter of the hull.....this really pissed me off
and i swear next time it will be marine fir and okumme all around.
Long story short i ground out a 12" diameter spot.....good bit
larger than the problem area. That face under there was hideous and
knotty but solid. I then laid dynel in the hollow then coated with
micro ballons, looks good now but it may show through the paint.
Jason
My local lumberyard (not a chain) carries 2 sided MDO which is
pretty nice stuff. Also amazingly void free.
Steve H
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "William_Benham"
<william_benham@y...> wrote:
pretty nice stuff. Also amazingly void free.
Steve H
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "William_Benham"
<william_benham@y...> wrote:
>by
> Hi List,
>
> I picked up some MDO from a local wholesaler for a boat building
> project I'm getting ready for (an instant boat style cat-yawl scow
> Conrad Natzio). The only unprimed MDO in 3/8" they had on handwas
> Olympic Guardian, with the overlay on a single side. The overlay(some
> side looks good, but the back is C grade with bunches of knots
> open/missing), splits, etc. I'm thinking that I'll probably haveto
> fill all the holes and the put a layer of 4 oz. glass and epoxy onit
> to make it look halfway decent. The condition of the back veneerlook
> sorta makes me worry about voids in the core, although the edges
> good void wise.glass.
>
> So, did I buy the wrong stuff? If so, what should I have been
> looking for?
>
> Is there something else I can do to make that C face look better,
> other than glass it? The reason I wanted to try the MDO was so I
> could get a good finish without having to resort to epoxy and
>
> I'd appreciate any feedback.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
Bill,
I've used that stuff for a bottom and, yes, the C side looks scary; I filled
the open knots with thickened epoxy (this was the exterior face) and glassed
over it with xynole and epoxy. So far, it's been bulletproof. I never
found a void in any of the cuts I made.
David
_____
From: William_Benham [mailto:william_benham@...]
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2004 4:32 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] MDO - The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly?
Hi List,
I picked up some MDO from a local wholesaler for a boat building
project I'm getting ready for (an instant boat style cat-yawl scow by
Conrad Natzio). The only unprimed MDO in 3/8" they had on hand was
Olympic Guardian, with the overlay on a single side. The overlay
side looks good, but the back is C grade with bunches of knots (some
open/missing), splits, etc. I'm thinking that I'll probably have to
fill all the holes and the put a layer of 4 oz. glass and epoxy on it
to make it look halfway decent. The condition of the back veneer
sorta makes me worry about voids in the core, although the edges look
good void wise.
So, did I buy the wrong stuff? If so, what should I have been
looking for?
Is there something else I can do to make that C face look better,
other than glass it? The reason I wanted to try the MDO was so I
could get a good finish without having to resort to epoxy and glass.
I'd appreciate any feedback.
Thanks,
Bill
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I've used that stuff for a bottom and, yes, the C side looks scary; I filled
the open knots with thickened epoxy (this was the exterior face) and glassed
over it with xynole and epoxy. So far, it's been bulletproof. I never
found a void in any of the cuts I made.
David
_____
From: William_Benham [mailto:william_benham@...]
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2004 4:32 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] MDO - The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly?
Hi List,
I picked up some MDO from a local wholesaler for a boat building
project I'm getting ready for (an instant boat style cat-yawl scow by
Conrad Natzio). The only unprimed MDO in 3/8" they had on hand was
Olympic Guardian, with the overlay on a single side. The overlay
side looks good, but the back is C grade with bunches of knots (some
open/missing), splits, etc. I'm thinking that I'll probably have to
fill all the holes and the put a layer of 4 oz. glass and epoxy on it
to make it look halfway decent. The condition of the back veneer
sorta makes me worry about voids in the core, although the edges look
good void wise.
So, did I buy the wrong stuff? If so, what should I have been
looking for?
Is there something else I can do to make that C face look better,
other than glass it? The reason I wanted to try the MDO was so I
could get a good finish without having to resort to epoxy and glass.
I'd appreciate any feedback.
Thanks,
Bill
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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*http://www.sodaclubusa.com/referrer.asp?redirect=rv_boat_camp.asp&referrer=
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi List,
I picked up some MDO from a local wholesaler for a boat building
project I'm getting ready for (an instant boat style cat-yawl scow by
Conrad Natzio). The only unprimed MDO in 3/8" they had on hand was
Olympic Guardian, with the overlay on a single side. The overlay
side looks good, but the back is C grade with bunches of knots (some
open/missing), splits, etc. I'm thinking that I'll probably have to
fill all the holes and the put a layer of 4 oz. glass and epoxy on it
to make it look halfway decent. The condition of the back veneer
sorta makes me worry about voids in the core, although the edges look
good void wise.
So, did I buy the wrong stuff? If so, what should I have been
looking for?
Is there something else I can do to make that C face look better,
other than glass it? The reason I wanted to try the MDO was so I
could get a good finish without having to resort to epoxy and glass.
I'd appreciate any feedback.
Thanks,
Bill
I picked up some MDO from a local wholesaler for a boat building
project I'm getting ready for (an instant boat style cat-yawl scow by
Conrad Natzio). The only unprimed MDO in 3/8" they had on hand was
Olympic Guardian, with the overlay on a single side. The overlay
side looks good, but the back is C grade with bunches of knots (some
open/missing), splits, etc. I'm thinking that I'll probably have to
fill all the holes and the put a layer of 4 oz. glass and epoxy on it
to make it look halfway decent. The condition of the back veneer
sorta makes me worry about voids in the core, although the edges look
good void wise.
So, did I buy the wrong stuff? If so, what should I have been
looking for?
Is there something else I can do to make that C face look better,
other than glass it? The reason I wanted to try the MDO was so I
could get a good finish without having to resort to epoxy and glass.
I'd appreciate any feedback.
Thanks,
Bill