Re: Chebacco CB pivot
My two bits worth -- my plans didn't give me any guidance on this, so
I worked out my own design and dimensions. I used a 1/2 inch bronze
pin, with 1/2 inch bronze tubing for bushings set in the board and
the case sides . Gluing the bushings in place also sealed the grain
in the case sides.
To keep the water out of the boat, I cut the pin so it was flush with
the outsides of the case, or maye a hair shorter, then tacked 3"
diameter (or thereabout)1/4 inch plywood caps over the ends. I used
copper ring nails for tacks, cutting them short so they wouldn't go
all the way through the case sides, and bedding the caps with 3M 5200.
5200 is permanent, but when it's time to take the caps off, I'll pare
them and the 5200 away with a chisel and make new ones.
There are no leaks around the pin, and making the caps and putting
them on only took a few minutes and no special parts. The flush pin
and plywood caps would work with your pin and plates as well. It's
been working okay on my boat for 5 years now.
Jamie Orr
I worked out my own design and dimensions. I used a 1/2 inch bronze
pin, with 1/2 inch bronze tubing for bushings set in the board and
the case sides . Gluing the bushings in place also sealed the grain
in the case sides.
To keep the water out of the boat, I cut the pin so it was flush with
the outsides of the case, or maye a hair shorter, then tacked 3"
diameter (or thereabout)1/4 inch plywood caps over the ends. I used
copper ring nails for tacks, cutting them short so they wouldn't go
all the way through the case sides, and bedding the caps with 3M 5200.
5200 is permanent, but when it's time to take the caps off, I'll pare
them and the 5200 away with a chisel and make new ones.
There are no leaks around the pin, and making the caps and putting
them on only took a few minutes and no special parts. The flush pin
and plywood caps would work with your pin and plates as well. It's
been working okay on my boat for 5 years now.
Jamie Orr
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> The plans call for four plates of SS with a 1" pivot, 2 on the CB
and 2 on
> the case. The center is on the LWL. Any suggestions on keeping
the water
> outside?
>
> I looked at the idea of using thru-hulls for pivots with caps, but
a host of
> questions popped up; e.g.
> - loading on the Marelon or equivalent,
> - inside seems ridged for wrenching which reduces the contact area,
> - how high is the button on the non-flush (couldn't find flush for
a 1" ID),
> - availablity of screw-on caps for the ends,
> - tripping potential for the parts on the sole, etc.
> Can't remember who's web site I found the idea on, but it did look
good.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@s...
>http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
Not. The pin will be enclosed entirely.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> So, when you're all done, will you be able to see the end of the
pin, or
> not?
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@s...
> derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "seagulloutb" <dickburnham1@a...>
>
> > My Chebacco, still in the barn, has the s/s pivot coming through
the
> > trunk and extends proud probably 1" each side. The plan, when I
> > finally get to it, will be to epoxy a small 1/4" ply plate to the
> > trunk, then put some sort of tight fitting rubber washer over the
> > pivot pin, snug it up to the 1/4" ply, then make a wood cover that
> > will enclose the pin/washer. It will be screwed to the 1/4"
ply. I
> > suppose some bedding compound would be good at the joint.
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> > > The plans call for four plates of SS with a 1" pivot, 2 on the
CB
> > > and 2 on the case. The center is on the LWL. Any suggestions
> > > on keeping the water outside?
> > >
> > > I looked at the idea of using thru-hulls for pivots with caps,
but
> > > a host of questions popped up; e.g.
> > > - loading on the Marelon or equivalent,
> > > - inside seems ridged for wrenching which reduces the contact
area,
> > > - how high is the button on the non-flush (couldn't find flush
for
> > > a 1" ID),
> > > - availablity of screw-on caps for the ends,
> > > - tripping potential for the parts on the sole, etc.
> > > Can't remember who's web site I found the idea on, but it did
look
> > > good.
> > >
> > > Suggestions?
That would work, Put an O-ring on the shaft, chamfer the plate it abuts,
put a retaining washer and some sort of holding device. I'll go with that.
Roger (building the CB case now to avoid a set of bend-overs)
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
put a retaining washer and some sort of holding device. I'll go with that.
Roger (building the CB case now to avoid a set of bend-overs)
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "seagulloutb" <dickburnham1@...>
> My Chebacco, still in the barn, has the s/s pivot coming through the
> trunk and extends proud probably 1" each side. The plan, when I
> finally get to it, will be to epoxy a small 1/4" ply plate to the
> trunk, then put some sort of tight fitting rubber washer over the
> pivot pin, snug it up to the 1/4" ply, then make a wood cover that
> will enclose the pin/washer. It will be screwed to the 1/4" ply. I
> suppose some bedding compound would be good at the joint.
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> > The plans call for four plates of SS with a 1" pivot, 2 on the CB
> > and 2 on the case. The center is on the LWL. Any suggestions
> > on keeping the water outside?
> >
> > I looked at the idea of using thru-hulls for pivots with caps, but
> > a host of questions popped up; e.g.
> > - loading on the Marelon or equivalent,
> > - inside seems ridged for wrenching which reduces the contact area,
> > - how high is the button on the non-flush (couldn't find flush for
> > a 1" ID),
> > - availablity of screw-on caps for the ends,
> > - tripping potential for the parts on the sole, etc.
> > Can't remember who's web site I found the idea on, but it did look
> > good.
> >
> > Suggestions?
So, when you're all done, will you be able to see the end of the pin, or
not?
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
not?
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "seagulloutb" <dickburnham1@...>
> My Chebacco, still in the barn, has the s/s pivot coming through the
> trunk and extends proud probably 1" each side. The plan, when I
> finally get to it, will be to epoxy a small 1/4" ply plate to the
> trunk, then put some sort of tight fitting rubber washer over the
> pivot pin, snug it up to the 1/4" ply, then make a wood cover that
> will enclose the pin/washer. It will be screwed to the 1/4" ply. I
> suppose some bedding compound would be good at the joint.
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> > The plans call for four plates of SS with a 1" pivot, 2 on the CB
> > and 2 on the case. The center is on the LWL. Any suggestions
> > on keeping the water outside?
> >
> > I looked at the idea of using thru-hulls for pivots with caps, but
> > a host of questions popped up; e.g.
> > - loading on the Marelon or equivalent,
> > - inside seems ridged for wrenching which reduces the contact area,
> > - how high is the button on the non-flush (couldn't find flush for
> > a 1" ID),
> > - availablity of screw-on caps for the ends,
> > - tripping potential for the parts on the sole, etc.
> > Can't remember who's web site I found the idea on, but it did look
> > good.
> >
> > Suggestions?
Hi Roger,
My Chebacco, still in the barn, has the s/s pivot coming through the
trunk and extends proud probably 1" each side. The plan, when I
finally get to it, will be to epoxy a small 1/4" ply plate to the
trunk, then put some sort of tight fitting rubber washer over the
pivot pin, snug it up to the 1/4" ply, then make a wood cover that
will enclose the pin/washer. It will be screwed to the 1/4" ply. I
suppose some bedding compound would be good at the joint.
My Chebacco, still in the barn, has the s/s pivot coming through the
trunk and extends proud probably 1" each side. The plan, when I
finally get to it, will be to epoxy a small 1/4" ply plate to the
trunk, then put some sort of tight fitting rubber washer over the
pivot pin, snug it up to the 1/4" ply, then make a wood cover that
will enclose the pin/washer. It will be screwed to the 1/4" ply. I
suppose some bedding compound would be good at the joint.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> The plans call for four plates of SS with a 1" pivot, 2 on the CB
and 2 on
> the case. The center is on the LWL. Any suggestions on keeping
the water
> outside?
>
> I looked at the idea of using thru-hulls for pivots with caps, but
a host of
> questions popped up; e.g.
> - loading on the Marelon or equivalent,
> - inside seems ridged for wrenching which reduces the contact area,
> - how high is the button on the non-flush (couldn't find flush for
a 1" ID),
> - availablity of screw-on caps for the ends,
> - tripping potential for the parts on the sole, etc.
> Can't remember who's web site I found the idea on, but it did look
good.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@s...
>http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
The plans call for four plates of SS with a 1" pivot, 2 on the CB and 2 on
the case. The center is on the LWL. Any suggestions on keeping the water
outside?
I looked at the idea of using thru-hulls for pivots with caps, but a host of
questions popped up; e.g.
- loading on the Marelon or equivalent,
- inside seems ridged for wrenching which reduces the contact area,
- how high is the button on the non-flush (couldn't find flush for a 1" ID),
- availablity of screw-on caps for the ends,
- tripping potential for the parts on the sole, etc.
Can't remember who's web site I found the idea on, but it did look good.
Suggestions?
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
the case. The center is on the LWL. Any suggestions on keeping the water
outside?
I looked at the idea of using thru-hulls for pivots with caps, but a host of
questions popped up; e.g.
- loading on the Marelon or equivalent,
- inside seems ridged for wrenching which reduces the contact area,
- how high is the button on the non-flush (couldn't find flush for a 1" ID),
- availablity of screw-on caps for the ends,
- tripping potential for the parts on the sole, etc.
Can't remember who's web site I found the idea on, but it did look good.
Suggestions?
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm