Re: Navigator pilot house top....Don B. and Bruce?
Thanks for the photo url Bruce.
Yes, you have put a lot of thought and effort into that roof, and
clever to get all that hardware and solar panels tucked away so
neatly.
I'll store this up for future reference.
DonB
Yes, you have put a lot of thought and effort into that roof, and
clever to get all that hardware and solar panels tucked away so
neatly.
I'll store this up for future reference.
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> > I think your sandwich solution is the best Bruce. I must have
missed
> > previously that you used this method. I assume it stops most of
the
> > ceiling condensation?
> > DonB
>
> I didn't take many photos of this phase of my construction, but...
>
>http://community.webshots.com/photo/121069753/121101317VxIqxO
>http://community.webshots.com/photo/121069753/121101294UFkYvI
>
> ...shows two photos, and yes, there is no condensation.
[Insulation
> is important on the sides of the boat to stop condensation too.]
>
> I also used the space between the ceiling and roof to run the wires
> for the photovoltaic panels, installed five ceiling lights, and
speaker
> wires for the sound system. The pivot bolts for the pivoting cams
> for stowing the lines and halyards have 'backing blocks' installed
in
> this space too.
>
> Conceptually, fitting and building the intersection of the conical
shape
> of the six-sided-slot-hatched overhanging roof onto the curved beam
> and the seven curved top rails of the trapezoidally shaped windows;
>
> I hurt my brain with all that head scratching!
>
> Add in: The sliding hatch & rails, the hatch opening trim,
> the waterproofing, the skylights, and the fairleads, boom
> gallows, etc..
>
> Indeed; building the ceiling/roof was a lot of hard work!
> I think your sandwich solution is the best Bruce. I must have missedI didn't take many photos of this phase of my construction, but...
> previously that you used this method. I assume it stops most of the
> ceiling condensation?
> DonB
http://community.webshots.com/photo/121069753/121101317VxIqxO
http://community.webshots.com/photo/121069753/121101294UFkYvI
...shows two photos, and yes, there is no condensation. [Insulation
is important on the sides of the boat to stop condensation too.]
I also used the space between the ceiling and roof to run the wires
for the photovoltaic panels, installed five ceiling lights, and speaker
wires for the sound system. The pivot bolts for the pivoting cams
for stowing the lines and halyards have 'backing blocks' installed in
this space too.
Conceptually, fitting and building the intersection of the conical shape
of the six-sided-slot-hatched overhanging roof onto the curved beam
and the seven curved top rails of the trapezoidally shaped windows;
I hurt my brain with all that head scratching!
Add in: The sliding hatch & rails, the hatch opening trim,
the waterproofing, the skylights, and the fairleads, boom
gallows, etc..
Indeed; building the ceiling/roof was a lot of hard work!
I think your sandwich solution is the best Bruce. I must have missed
previously that you used this method. I assume it stops most of the
ceiling condensation?
DonB
previously that you used this method. I assume it stops most of the
ceiling condensation?
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> I used 1/4" plywood for my ceiling, sandwiched with a layer of 3/4"
> styrofoam, and another layer of 1/4" for the roof. I have the one
> roof beam crosswise at about station 8 [connected to the port and
> starboard window posts]. This roof beam is sawn on a curve. My roof
> is *plenty* strong to stand on.
I used 1/4" plywood for my ceiling, sandwiched with a layer of 3/4"
styrofoam, and another layer of 1/4" for the roof. I have the one
roof beam crosswise at about station 8 [connected to the port and
starboard window posts]. This roof beam is sawn on a curve. My roof
is *plenty* strong to stand on.
styrofoam, and another layer of 1/4" for the roof. I have the one
roof beam crosswise at about station 8 [connected to the port and
starboard window posts]. This roof beam is sawn on a curve. My roof
is *plenty* strong to stand on.
Hi Jason, I used 6mm ply for the cabintop with beams (see my website
http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/)Strong enough.
This was a mistake....I am just under 6ft, and bump my head. Also the
beams are messy to paint and clean around. If I were doing it again,
I would use 2 layers of 6mm ply, glued together in place for great
strength and stiffness, and comfort! And no beams other than the
hatch rails.
As for floorboards, my hull is to plan, using a 6mm ply bottom. So I
have floorboards. (actually I have more epoxied steel punching
ballast there, so the floorboards are also to tidy it up).I envy you
your strong hull Jason! I don't think you need floorboards at all.
The only reason would be for comfort if you got water sloshing
around...but hardly an issue. I certainly would not bother if I had
your setup.
By the way, I could not get into the photos you posted. Could you
give your password?
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/)Strong enough.
This was a mistake....I am just under 6ft, and bump my head. Also the
beams are messy to paint and clean around. If I were doing it again,
I would use 2 layers of 6mm ply, glued together in place for great
strength and stiffness, and comfort! And no beams other than the
hatch rails.
As for floorboards, my hull is to plan, using a 6mm ply bottom. So I
have floorboards. (actually I have more epoxied steel punching
ballast there, so the floorboards are also to tidy it up).I envy you
your strong hull Jason! I don't think you need floorboards at all.
The only reason would be for comfort if you got water sloshing
around...but hardly an issue. I certainly would not bother if I had
your setup.
By the way, I could not get into the photos you posted. Could you
give your password?
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> Hey guys-quite
>
> How thick a ply did you folks use on your cabin tops?
> I'm over 6' 2" tall and i don't wan't to wear a hard hat down below
> so i'm trying to minimize the roof beams. So far i have (2) 1.75 x
> by 1.75 longitudinal beams both off set 12" from
> centerline.....these will be developed into the companionway hatch
> rails.
>
> Did you guys make your cabin tops strong enough to stand on? I have
> 3" of side decks and i don't plan on throwing a party up there or
> anything but sooner or later i'll be up there howling at the
> moon......not to mention raising/striking the mast hurah for the
> tabernacle!
>
> Also debating on the floor boards don do you have them in oink?
> Structurally my boat is shall we say stout so i'm not sure the
> boards will do much for stiffening up the boat(.75" bottom and
> a bit of glass and epoxy) and bolger wrote something about headroom
> with and without floorboards in the navigator write up, leading me
> to think they are an option. Would be nice to be able to stand up
> straight mid-ship under the closed hatch.......maybe i'll make the
> hatch a little higher(?)
>
> Bruce i don't think you'll need to cut your yuloh....I rigged my
> yuloh up today and to clear the outboard i couldn't do an aft deck
> pivit. Instead i cut an H shaped board out of some oak and centered
> the pivit on that. You pull the board out from under the bunk lean
> out the companionway and the "H" slot's legs drop down and settle
> between the two stern post which are massive 2"x6" (tapered at the
> top) laminated white oak epoxed and through bolted with (4) 1/4" ss
> bolts. The whole rig is solid. And quick to mount and strike. I'll
> have the yuloh up on the tabernacle gallows in it's only little
> notch.....the curve fits the hull shape perfectly so it won't stick
> out like a ramming rod either. Now all i have to do is figure out
> how to scull with it :)
>
> Incase that makes no sense:
>http://www.alaska.net/~mzeiger/MJprogress04.html
>
> kinda like that but instead of the transom it mounts to the stern
> posts. I'll getsome batteries next time i go to the store and take
> more pictures to post.
>
> Jason
> Launching by october 1st even if it ain't finished......still
> looking for polycarbonate
Hey guys-
How thick a ply did you folks use on your cabin tops?
I'm over 6' 2" tall and i don't wan't to wear a hard hat down below
so i'm trying to minimize the roof beams. So far i have (2) 1.75 x
by 1.75 longitudinal beams both off set 12" from
centerline.....these will be developed into the companionway hatch
rails.
Did you guys make your cabin tops strong enough to stand on? I have
3" of side decks and i don't plan on throwing a party up there or
anything but sooner or later i'll be up there howling at the
moon......not to mention raising/striking the mast hurah for the
tabernacle!
Also debating on the floor boards don do you have them in oink?
Structurally my boat is shall we say stout so i'm not sure the
boards will do much for stiffening up the boat(.75" bottom and quite
a bit of glass and epoxy) and bolger wrote something about headroom
with and without floorboards in the navigator write up, leading me
to think they are an option. Would be nice to be able to stand up
straight mid-ship under the closed hatch.......maybe i'll make the
hatch a little higher(?)
Bruce i don't think you'll need to cut your yuloh....I rigged my
yuloh up today and to clear the outboard i couldn't do an aft deck
pivit. Instead i cut an H shaped board out of some oak and centered
the pivit on that. You pull the board out from under the bunk lean
out the companionway and the "H" slot's legs drop down and settle
between the two stern post which are massive 2"x6" (tapered at the
top) laminated white oak epoxed and through bolted with (4) 1/4" ss
bolts. The whole rig is solid. And quick to mount and strike. I'll
have the yuloh up on the tabernacle gallows in it's only little
notch.....the curve fits the hull shape perfectly so it won't stick
out like a ramming rod either. Now all i have to do is figure out
how to scull with it :)
Incase that makes no sense:
http://www.alaska.net/~mzeiger/MJprogress04.html
kinda like that but instead of the transom it mounts to the stern
posts. I'll getsome batteries next time i go to the store and take
more pictures to post.
Jason
Launching by october 1st even if it ain't finished......still
looking for polycarbonate
How thick a ply did you folks use on your cabin tops?
I'm over 6' 2" tall and i don't wan't to wear a hard hat down below
so i'm trying to minimize the roof beams. So far i have (2) 1.75 x
by 1.75 longitudinal beams both off set 12" from
centerline.....these will be developed into the companionway hatch
rails.
Did you guys make your cabin tops strong enough to stand on? I have
3" of side decks and i don't plan on throwing a party up there or
anything but sooner or later i'll be up there howling at the
moon......not to mention raising/striking the mast hurah for the
tabernacle!
Also debating on the floor boards don do you have them in oink?
Structurally my boat is shall we say stout so i'm not sure the
boards will do much for stiffening up the boat(.75" bottom and quite
a bit of glass and epoxy) and bolger wrote something about headroom
with and without floorboards in the navigator write up, leading me
to think they are an option. Would be nice to be able to stand up
straight mid-ship under the closed hatch.......maybe i'll make the
hatch a little higher(?)
Bruce i don't think you'll need to cut your yuloh....I rigged my
yuloh up today and to clear the outboard i couldn't do an aft deck
pivit. Instead i cut an H shaped board out of some oak and centered
the pivit on that. You pull the board out from under the bunk lean
out the companionway and the "H" slot's legs drop down and settle
between the two stern post which are massive 2"x6" (tapered at the
top) laminated white oak epoxed and through bolted with (4) 1/4" ss
bolts. The whole rig is solid. And quick to mount and strike. I'll
have the yuloh up on the tabernacle gallows in it's only little
notch.....the curve fits the hull shape perfectly so it won't stick
out like a ramming rod either. Now all i have to do is figure out
how to scull with it :)
Incase that makes no sense:
http://www.alaska.net/~mzeiger/MJprogress04.html
kinda like that but instead of the transom it mounts to the stern
posts. I'll getsome batteries next time i go to the store and take
more pictures to post.
Jason
Launching by october 1st even if it ain't finished......still
looking for polycarbonate