Re: [bolger] Suggestions for home-built tiller extension and universal joint?
>>Make the "U-Joint" out of stretched bungee which adds friction.
>> Any suggestions for a "better" solution?
--
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Mouradian" <r_mouradian@y...>
wrote:
put it through and tied a knot in the end . very effective.
My present one is an extendale aluminium mop handle. It iis real
flsh with a press fitting to make it removable. the other end has a
boat hook fitted to it. I sealed the inside to make it a floating
one. The swivel joint is a swivel shackle with one end flared out and
screwed to the tiller.
Cheers paul
wrote:
> I would like to add an extension to my wooden tiller and I amseen
> wondering what other people have used for a connection. I have
> some expensive carbon-fiber rods and universal joints, but I wouldaluminium tube then drilled the tiller with the right sized hole ,
> prefer to do something cheap.
>
> I have glued a piece of thik marine rope into the end of an
put it through and tied a knot in the end . very effective.
My present one is an extendale aluminium mop handle. It iis real
flsh with a press fitting to make it removable. the other end has a
boat hook fitted to it. I sealed the inside to make it a floating
one. The swivel joint is a swivel shackle with one end flared out and
screwed to the tiller.
Cheers paul
-For the extension use an appropriate length of wood the same cross
section as your tiller end. For U joint use an appropriate size
flexible tubing held in place with a number of turns of small stuff or
hose clamps. You will want to tape the hose clamps, those ends cut.
You will also want to inspect it often.
Bob Chamberland
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Mouradian" <r_mouradian@y...> wrote:
section as your tiller end. For U joint use an appropriate size
flexible tubing held in place with a number of turns of small stuff or
hose clamps. You will want to tape the hose clamps, those ends cut.
You will also want to inspect it often.
Bob Chamberland
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Mouradian" <r_mouradian@y...> wrote:
> I would like to add an extension to my wooden tiller and I am
> wondering what other people have used for a connection. I have seen
> some expensive carbon-fiber rods and universal joints, but I would
> prefer to do something cheap.
>
> My first attempt was to just drill a hole through the tiller and
> another "stick" then run a rope through both and put stopper knots on
> both sides. That is cheap and easy and gives plenty of flex. It is
> fine for tacking when the joint is at a sharp angle, but it seems a
> little too loose when the tiller is pointed more or less forward.
>
> Any suggestions for a "better" solution?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rob
The Sunfish replaces your rope with a loose fitting SS bolt and self-locking
nut -- adjustable play. Bush with nylon or epoxy in the holes.
For gripping, epoxy a sail hoop to the end of your stick (adds 2" without
adding non-standard parts).
Works fine. (Yes, it's a bit sloppy, maybe 1/4", when the angle is 180° but
so what? You can steer by adjusting the heel and if you heel to windward,
it raises the sail a few inches toward the fairer wind aloft.)
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
nut -- adjustable play. Bush with nylon or epoxy in the holes.
For gripping, epoxy a sail hoop to the end of your stick (adds 2" without
adding non-standard parts).
Works fine. (Yes, it's a bit sloppy, maybe 1/4", when the angle is 180° but
so what? You can steer by adjusting the heel and if you heel to windward,
it raises the sail a few inches toward the fairer wind aloft.)
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Mouradian" <r_mouradian@...>
> My first attempt was to just drill a hole through the tiller and
> another "stick" then run a rope through both and put stopper knots on
> both sides. That is cheap and easy and gives plenty of flex. It is
> fine for tacking when the joint is at a sharp angle, but it seems a
> little too loose when the tiller is pointed more or less forward.
>
> Any suggestions for a "better" solution?
I too have been trying to figure out a good, cheap tiller extension
connection. Any tips or diagrams would be greatly appreciated!
YIBB,
David
connection. Any tips or diagrams would be greatly appreciated!
YIBB,
David
On Tuesday, August 3, 2004, at 10:43 AM, Rob Mouradian wrote:
> I would like to add an extension to my wooden tiller and I am
> wondering what other people have used for a connection. I have seen
> some expensive carbon-fiber rods and universal joints, but I would
> prefer to do something cheap.
>
> My first attempt was to just drill a hole through the tiller and
> another "stick" then run a rope through both and put stopper knots on
> both sides. That is cheap and easy and gives plenty of flex. It is
> fine for tacking when the joint is at a sharp angle, but it seems a
> little too loose when the tiller is pointed more or less forward.
>
> Any suggestions for a "better" solution?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rob
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> Any suggestions for a "better" solution?This worked very well for me.
I made two wooden parts. The first was the actual tiller extension
which was very light, only about 1/2" square section and 24" long. I
would have made it sturdier, except that's the stock I had on hand.
It worked fine.
The second part was a sort of squared-off U shape. The opening in
the U was a working fit for the width of the extension. The U (lying
flat on the tiller) was pivoted on a vertical bolt thru the base of
the U and down thru the tiller. The extension was pivoted on a
horizontal bolt thru the arms of the U.
Of course, you want the grain of the U to run along the arms.
Clear? Anyway, good little universal joint, and worked like a charm.
18' Rhodes Mariner.
Total cost? Stock was on hand. I may have bought the bolts. Varnish
was on-hand. Maybe $0.50.
Peter
I would like to add an extension to my wooden tiller and I am
wondering what other people have used for a connection. I have seen
some expensive carbon-fiber rods and universal joints, but I would
prefer to do something cheap.
My first attempt was to just drill a hole through the tiller and
another "stick" then run a rope through both and put stopper knots on
both sides. That is cheap and easy and gives plenty of flex. It is
fine for tacking when the joint is at a sharp angle, but it seems a
little too loose when the tiller is pointed more or less forward.
Any suggestions for a "better" solution?
Thanks
Rob
wondering what other people have used for a connection. I have seen
some expensive carbon-fiber rods and universal joints, but I would
prefer to do something cheap.
My first attempt was to just drill a hole through the tiller and
another "stick" then run a rope through both and put stopper knots on
both sides. That is cheap and easy and gives plenty of flex. It is
fine for tacking when the joint is at a sharp angle, but it seems a
little too loose when the tiller is pointed more or less forward.
Any suggestions for a "better" solution?
Thanks
Rob
I seem to recall making a figure 8 lashing, with some turns around the
gap in between the tiller and the extension. Worked ok, but not as
refined as the commercial units. Not loose, but maybe a little
resistance to swinging around. I don't remember the exact details, but
it was cheap and easy and it worked. The extension was just a dowel of
appropriate size (not very large). This was on a very small boat.
gap in between the tiller and the extension. Worked ok, but not as
refined as the commercial units. Not loose, but maybe a little
resistance to swinging around. I don't remember the exact details, but
it was cheap and easy and it worked. The extension was just a dowel of
appropriate size (not very large). This was on a very small boat.
>Rob Mouradian wrote:
>I would like to add an extension to my wooden tiller and I am
>wondering what other people have used for a connection. I have seen
>some expensive carbon-fiber rods and universal joints, but I would
>prefer to do something cheap.
>
>My first attempt was to just drill a hole through the tiller and
>another "stick" then run a rope through both and put stopper knots on
>both sides. That is cheap and easy and gives plenty of flex. It is
>fine for tacking when the joint is at a sharp angle, but it seems a
>little too loose when the tiller is pointed more or less forward.
>
>Any suggestions for a "better" solution?
>
>Thanks
>
>Rob
>
>
>
>______________________
>
I have used a golf club with the head cut off (bought from Goodwill store,
$3)
connected with a short length of surgical tubing.
Justin
$3)
connected with a short length of surgical tubing.
Justin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Mouradian" <r_mouradian@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2004 10:43 AM
Subject: [bolger] Suggestions for home-built tiller extension and universal
joint?
> I would like to add an extension to my wooden tiller and I am
> wondering what other people have used for a connection. I have seen
> some expensive carbon-fiber rods and universal joints, but I would
> prefer to do something cheap.
>
> My first attempt was to just drill a hole through the tiller and
> another "stick" then run a rope through both and put stopper knots on
> both sides. That is cheap and easy and gives plenty of flex. It is
> fine for tacking when the joint is at a sharp angle, but it seems a
> little too loose when the tiller is pointed more or less forward.
>
> Any suggestions for a "better" solution?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rob
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>