Re: [bolger] Re: Chebacco Rigging
Yes I've double backed them, but I also attached the blocks over and to
the forward bulkhead. This should take any constant strain off the cabin
top joint. Probably unnecessary but it seemed logical. Also yes I agree
to put backing plates on all the cleats.
the forward bulkhead. This should take any constant strain off the cabin
top joint. Probably unnecessary but it seemed logical. Also yes I agree
to put backing plates on all the cleats.
>
> Ed, Have you placed 1/2" plywood mounting pads under the roof
> where you'll put cleats? This supposedly distributes stresses
> and minimizes pull-out. Not having gotten that far, it is my
> plan. I've also thought of something akin to a pin-rail on the
> bulkhead from which to simply organize and hang coiled line. -
> thoughts? -- Dick B.
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, <eheins@c...> wrote:
> > Thanks I would be interested in the lines on the cuddy roof.
> I am > struggling with that aspect at the moment. I've mounted
> some blocks near
> > the mast and attached to the bulkhead to keep the strain off the
> cabin
> > top, but not real sure what to do with the lines from this
> stage. Several
> > options, none that are just real exciting as of yet.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hooray, Bill Samson's come back to Bolgerland! Hi
> Bill! Ed
> > > -- has Bill has answered your questions and you're at
> peace? If
> > > there are still questions on rigging, I have sketches
> by the fellow
> > > out west on how he rigged his boat, and recently some
> comments on the
> > > placing of lines on the cuddy roof. Let me
> know if any of this
> > > is needed. Incidentally, as a small note to
> you and Bill, I > > spend most days on our Chebacco's cuddy
> roof (taaa daaa), now fitting
> > > on those wedge shaped pieces for the sliding
> hatch. Deck all
> > > on. Upcoming big projects: xynole cladding of
> deck and cuddy
> > > roof, building hollow masts, etc. Bill, do
> you miss your > > Chebacco? You can always build
> another, or is it heavy deep > > draft boat time for you on that
> stormy Scottish coast? Ed -- just came
> > > back from Burlington, VT, checking out the lake for
> Chebacco > > cruising.... -- Dick Burnham and the
> Chebacco "Stealing
> > > Horses"
> > >
> > > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Will
> Samson" > > willsamson@y... wrote: > Hi Ed,
> > > >
> > > > I didn't bother with hoops on the mast and just did
> a line running
> > > back and forth which worked fine.
> The outhaul was just a
> > > bit of line running through the eyelet, round the end
> of the boom > > three or four times and pulled pretty
> tight.
> > > >
> > > > The gaff connection is, as you say, in two
> parts. The > > 'throat' part goes through holes
> in the gaff jaws and is tied in a
> > > bowline, or alternatively, the loop through the jaws is
> spliced off
> > > and the
> > > throat halyard is shackled onto it. The line on the
> gaff itself
> > > has to be as tight as hell! The peak halyard
> can be fixed to
> > > this by a shackle or a rope with a thimble on it to run
> up and down
> > > the line. >
> > > > No sexy spar stowing widgets were devised . . . >
> > >
> > > > The boom is heavy so no downhaul is needed as long
> as the weight
> > > of the boom is on the sail. Likewise no
> kicking strap or vang is
> > > needed. >
> > > > Look forward to the launching pics!
> > > >
> > > > Cheers,
> > > >
> > > > Bill Samson
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed] > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> horses -
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> Fred' posts
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> away -
> > > Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax:
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Ed, Have you placed 1/2" plywood mounting pads under the roof where
you'll put cleats? This supposedly distributes stresses and
minimizes pull-out. Not having gotten that far, it is my plan. I've
also thought of something akin to a pin-rail on the bulkhead from
which to simply organize and hang coiled line. - thoughts? -- Dick
B.
you'll put cleats? This supposedly distributes stresses and
minimizes pull-out. Not having gotten that far, it is my plan. I've
also thought of something akin to a pin-rail on the bulkhead from
which to simply organize and hang coiled line. - thoughts? -- Dick
B.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, <eheins@c...> wrote:
> Thanks I would be interested in the lines on the cuddy roof. I am
> struggling with that aspect at the moment. I've mounted some
blocks near
> the mast and attached to the bulkhead to keep the strain off the
cabin
> top, but not real sure what to do with the lines from this stage.
Several
> options, none that are just real exciting as of yet.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hooray, Bill Samson's come back to Bolgerland! Hi Bill!
Ed
> > -- has Bill has answered your questions and you're at peace?
If
> > there are still questions on rigging, I have sketches by the
fellow
> > out west on how he rigged his boat, and recently some comments
on the
> > placing of lines on the cuddy roof. Let me know if any of
this
> > is needed. Incidentally, as a small note to you and Bill, I
> > spend most days on our Chebacco's cuddy roof (taaa daaa), now
fitting
> > on those wedge shaped pieces for the sliding hatch. Deck
all
> > on. Upcoming big projects: xynole cladding of deck and
cuddy
> > roof, building hollow masts, etc. Bill, do you miss your
> > Chebacco? You can always build another, or is it heavy deep
> > draft boat time for you on that stormy Scottish coast? Ed --
just came
> > back from Burlington, VT, checking out the lake for Chebacco
> > cruising.... -- Dick Burnham and the Chebacco
"Stealing
> > Horses"
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Will Samson"
> > willsamson@y... wrote: > Hi Ed,
> > >
> > > I didn't bother with hoops on the mast and just did a line
running
> > back and forth which worked fine. The outhaul was
just a
> > bit of line running through the eyelet, round the end of the boom
> > three or four times and pulled pretty tight.
> > >
> > > The gaff connection is, as you say, in two parts. The
> > 'throat' part goes through holes in the gaff jaws and is tied in
a
> > bowline, or alternatively, the loop through the jaws is spliced
off
> > and the
> > throat halyard is shackled onto it. The line on the gaff
itself
> > has to be as tight as hell! The peak halyard can be fixed
to
> > this by a shackle or a rope with a thimble on it to run up and
down
> > the line. >
> > > No sexy spar stowing widgets were devised . . .
> > >
> > > The boom is heavy so no downhaul is needed as long as the
weight
> > of the boom is on the sail. Likewise no kicking strap or
vang is
> > needed. >
> > > Look forward to the launching pics!
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > Bill Samson
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses -
> > stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
away -
> > Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax:
> > (978) 282-1349 - Unsubscribe: bolger-
unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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For the rigging plans, line lengths, sizes, blocks, etc. I have two
drawings that say it all. Then, for the layout on the roof of the
cuddy (and Bill is spot-on with respect to the fairleads), I have the
comments of Ian Mc__ who answered my query on the "Spartalk" portion
of Brian Toss's website. These would be 3 things (actually, I think
Ian's response runs to 2 pages) that I can provide interested
Chebacco-istas. What I can do is scan these items and send them to
you directly. I have no idea how to post them here. (Come to think
of it I think Bill Samson posted the sketches a few years ago in a
CN, if you find those in the CN archives, great, otherwise I'll send
them). Please email me at burnharch <at> hotmail <dot> com so that I
can gather all and send each just once.
Ian's organization of the lines on the cuddy roof have a great sense
to it -- something so obvious that I would never have thought of it.
Jib (we're using the optional jib) outhaul outboard to port, jib
halyard next. Gaff throat outboard to s'bd, gaff peak next. Other
things go fro there. Ian goes on at some length over his improvement
of a topping lift into something he describes as "Lazy Ians"---. The
layout suggests to me that you'd learn soon just which cleat to jump
for without thinking.
For discussion, I just ordered a bulkhead compass. Danforth 3 3/4"
with night light (12v). Will mount on port side unless someone knows
better.
drawings that say it all. Then, for the layout on the roof of the
cuddy (and Bill is spot-on with respect to the fairleads), I have the
comments of Ian Mc__ who answered my query on the "Spartalk" portion
of Brian Toss's website. These would be 3 things (actually, I think
Ian's response runs to 2 pages) that I can provide interested
Chebacco-istas. What I can do is scan these items and send them to
you directly. I have no idea how to post them here. (Come to think
of it I think Bill Samson posted the sketches a few years ago in a
CN, if you find those in the CN archives, great, otherwise I'll send
them). Please email me at burnharch <at> hotmail <dot> com so that I
can gather all and send each just once.
Ian's organization of the lines on the cuddy roof have a great sense
to it -- something so obvious that I would never have thought of it.
Jib (we're using the optional jib) outhaul outboard to port, jib
halyard next. Gaff throat outboard to s'bd, gaff peak next. Other
things go fro there. Ian goes on at some length over his improvement
of a topping lift into something he describes as "Lazy Ians"---. The
layout suggests to me that you'd learn soon just which cleat to jump
for without thinking.
For discussion, I just ordered a bulkhead compass. Danforth 3 3/4"
with night light (12v). Will mount on port side unless someone knows
better.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, <eheins@c...> wrote:
> Thanks I would be interested in the lines on the cuddy roof. I am
> struggling with that aspect at the moment. I've mounted some
blocks near
> the mast and attached to the bulkhead to keep the strain off the
cabin
> top, but not real sure what to do with the lines from this stage.
Several
> options, none that are just real exciting as of yet.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hooray, Bill Samson's come back to Bolgerland! Hi Bill!
Ed
> > -- has Bill has answered your questions and you're at peace?
If
> > there are still questions on rigging, I have sketches by the
fellow
> > out west on how he rigged his boat, and recently some comments
on the
> > placing of lines on the cuddy roof. Let me know if any of
this
> > is needed. Incidentally, as a small note to you and Bill, I
> > spend most days on our Chebacco's cuddy roof (taaa daaa), now
fitting
> > on those wedge shaped pieces for the sliding hatch. Deck
all
> > on. Upcoming big projects: xynole cladding of deck and
cuddy
> > roof, building hollow masts, etc. Bill, do you miss your
> > Chebacco? You can always build another, or is it heavy deep
> > draft boat time for you on that stormy Scottish coast? Ed --
just came
> > back from Burlington, VT, checking out the lake for Chebacco
> > cruising.... -- Dick Burnham and the Chebacco
"Stealing
> > Horses"
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Will Samson"
> > willsamson@y... wrote: > Hi Ed,
> > >
> > > I didn't bother with hoops on the mast and just did a line
running
> > back and forth which worked fine. The outhaul was
just a
> > bit of line running through the eyelet, round the end of the boom
> > three or four times and pulled pretty tight.
> > >
> > > The gaff connection is, as you say, in two parts. The
> > 'throat' part goes through holes in the gaff jaws and is tied in
a
> > bowline, or alternatively, the loop through the jaws is spliced
off
> > and the
> > throat halyard is shackled onto it. The line on the gaff
itself
> > has to be as tight as hell! The peak halyard can be fixed
to
> > this by a shackle or a rope with a thimble on it to run up and
down
> > the line. >
> > > No sexy spar stowing widgets were devised . . .
> > >
> > > The boom is heavy so no downhaul is needed as long as the
weight
> > of the boom is on the sail. Likewise no kicking strap or
vang is
> > needed. >
> > > Look forward to the launching pics!
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > Bill Samson
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses -
> > stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
away -
> > Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax:
> > (978) 282-1349 - Unsubscribe: bolger-
unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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----- Original Message -----
From:eheins@...
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2004 9:35 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Chebacco Rigging
Thanks I would be interested in the lines on the cuddy roof. I am
struggling with that aspect at the moment. I've mounted some blocks near
the mast and attached to the bulkhead to keep the strain off the cabin
top, but not real sure what to do with the lines from this stage. Several
options, none that are just real exciting as of yet.
Ed,
Lines from these blocks alongside the mast will foul your hatch rails on the way to your cleats if you've done them to plan. What I did was to mount some plastic fairleads on the cabin top alongside the forard ends of the hatch rails to lead the lines around them, then back to cleats at the cockpit end of the cabin roof.
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Heins
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2004 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Chebacco Rigging
Bill! Great to hear from you! So I'm to understand that the peak halyard can slide where it will along the bridle? I had temporarily tied a loop into it and was somewhat unhappy with the less than nautical look of that arrangememt. I've just spliced a thimble into the peak halyard so if it can run along the bridle, so much the better!
That's right. The throat halyard takes the weight and the peak one slides up and down the bridle. So when you're not reefed the halyard comes off the bottom of the bridle (near enough) and with two reefs in, it's near the top.
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Did you rig a multi-part tackle,
use a wire whip to a tackle, or just muscle it up?
I just muscled it up. If you give it a good yank from all the way down, the momentum carries it up. You've got to be ready to cleat it at that point of course!
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
use a wire whip to a tackle, or just muscle it up?
I just muscled it up. If you give it a good yank from all the way down, the momentum carries it up. You've got to be ready to cleat it at that point of course!
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bill, do you miss your Chebacco? You can always build
another, or is it heavy deep draft boat time for you on that stormy
Scottish coast? Ed -- just came back from Burlington, VT, checking
out the lake for Chebacco cruising.... -- Dick Burnham and the
Chebacco "Stealing Horses"
Hi Dick!
Yes - I miss it sometimes, but I don't miss worrying about it on its mooring out in the estuary in the terrible weather we've been getting this past year or three. Richard, who bought it, has given me a standing invitation to go sailing with him any time I'm in the vicinity - so in some ways I get the best of both worlds.
Most of my watery time is spent in a kayak these days - so there's a token bit of exercise involved. The other nice thing about a kayak is you can toss it on the car roof and forget about it - no trailers and searches for decent ramps.
Nearly finished building a 10' Peach Pie pram dinghy from the drawing board (actually the computer) of Chuck Merrell. Should hit the water under sail before the end of the season.
Looking forward to your launch pics!
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
another, or is it heavy deep draft boat time for you on that stormy
Scottish coast? Ed -- just came back from Burlington, VT, checking
out the lake for Chebacco cruising.... -- Dick Burnham and the
Chebacco "Stealing Horses"
Hi Dick!
Yes - I miss it sometimes, but I don't miss worrying about it on its mooring out in the estuary in the terrible weather we've been getting this past year or three. Richard, who bought it, has given me a standing invitation to go sailing with him any time I'm in the vicinity - so in some ways I get the best of both worlds.
Most of my watery time is spent in a kayak these days - so there's a token bit of exercise involved. The other nice thing about a kayak is you can toss it on the car roof and forget about it - no trailers and searches for decent ramps.
Nearly finished building a 10' Peach Pie pram dinghy from the drawing board (actually the computer) of Chuck Merrell. Should hit the water under sail before the end of the season.
Looking forward to your launch pics!
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thanks I would be interested in the lines on the cuddy roof. I am
struggling with that aspect at the moment. I've mounted some blocks near
the mast and attached to the bulkhead to keep the strain off the cabin
top, but not real sure what to do with the lines from this stage. Several
options, none that are just real exciting as of yet.
struggling with that aspect at the moment. I've mounted some blocks near
the mast and attached to the bulkhead to keep the strain off the cabin
top, but not real sure what to do with the lines from this stage. Several
options, none that are just real exciting as of yet.
>
>
>
>
> Hooray, Bill Samson's come back to Bolgerland! Hi Bill! Ed
> -- has Bill has answered your questions and you're at peace? If
> there are still questions on rigging, I have sketches by the fellow
> out west on how he rigged his boat, and recently some comments on the
> placing of lines on the cuddy roof. Let me know if any of this
> is needed. Incidentally, as a small note to you and Bill, I
> spend most days on our Chebacco's cuddy roof (taaa daaa), now fitting
> on those wedge shaped pieces for the sliding hatch. Deck all
> on. Upcoming big projects: xynole cladding of deck and cuddy
> roof, building hollow masts, etc. Bill, do you miss your
> Chebacco? You can always build another, or is it heavy deep
> draft boat time for you on that stormy Scottish coast? Ed -- just came
> back from Burlington, VT, checking out the lake for Chebacco
> cruising.... -- Dick Burnham and the Chebacco "Stealing
> Horses"
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Will Samson"
> <willsamson@y...> wrote: > Hi Ed,
> >
> > I didn't bother with hoops on the mast and just did a line running
> back and forth which worked fine. The outhaul was just a
> bit of line running through the eyelet, round the end of the boom
> three or four times and pulled pretty tight.
> >
> > The gaff connection is, as you say, in two parts. The
> 'throat' part goes through holes in the gaff jaws and is tied in a
> bowline, or alternatively, the loop through the jaws is spliced off
> and the
> throat halyard is shackled onto it. The line on the gaff itself
> has to be as tight as hell! The peak halyard can be fixed to
> this by a shackle or a rope with a thimble on it to run up and down
> the line. >
> > No sexy spar stowing widgets were devised . . .
> >
> > The boom is heavy so no downhaul is needed as long as the weight
> of the boom is on the sail. Likewise no kicking strap or vang is
> needed. >
> > Look forward to the launching pics!
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Bill Samson
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses -
> stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away -
> Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349 - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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> I put a small block on the board (Cut a small half moon in the trailing
> edge for mounting the block.) that has seemed to work well on the
> cradle>
>
>
> Did you rig a multi-part tackle,
> use a wire whip to a tackle, or just muscle it up?
>
> I just muscled it up. If you give it a good yank from all the way
> down, the momentum carries it up. You've got to be ready to cleat
> it at that point of course!
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
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> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses -
> stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
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> Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349 - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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Dick, Ive bought the Chebacco Samantha, and Im puzzling out the
running rigging. It sounds like those sketches might help me too.
Please... Bill Kreamer
-----Original Message-----
From: seagulloutb [mailto:dickburnham1@...]
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2004 7:09
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Chebacco Rigging
Hooray, Bill Samson's come back to Bolgerland! Hi Bill! Ed -- has
Bill has answered your questions and you're at peace? If there are
still questions on rigging, I have sketches by the fellow out west on
how he rigged his boat, and recently some comments on the placing of
lines on the cuddy roof. Let me know if any of this is needed.
Incidentally, as a small note to you and Bill, I spend most days on
our Chebacco's cuddy roof (taaa daaa), now fitting on those wedge
shaped pieces for the sliding hatch. Deck all on. Upcoming big
projects: xynole cladding of deck and cuddy roof, building hollow
masts, etc. Bill, do you miss your Chebacco? You can always build
another, or is it heavy deep draft boat time for you on that stormy
Scottish coast? Ed -- just came back from Burlington, VT, checking
out the lake for Chebacco cruising.... -- Dick Burnham and the
Chebacco "Stealing Horses"
running rigging. It sounds like those sketches might help me too.
Please... Bill Kreamer
-----Original Message-----
From: seagulloutb [mailto:dickburnham1@...]
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2004 7:09
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Chebacco Rigging
Hooray, Bill Samson's come back to Bolgerland! Hi Bill! Ed -- has
Bill has answered your questions and you're at peace? If there are
still questions on rigging, I have sketches by the fellow out west on
how he rigged his boat, and recently some comments on the placing of
lines on the cuddy roof. Let me know if any of this is needed.
Incidentally, as a small note to you and Bill, I spend most days on
our Chebacco's cuddy roof (taaa daaa), now fitting on those wedge
shaped pieces for the sliding hatch. Deck all on. Upcoming big
projects: xynole cladding of deck and cuddy roof, building hollow
masts, etc. Bill, do you miss your Chebacco? You can always build
another, or is it heavy deep draft boat time for you on that stormy
Scottish coast? Ed -- just came back from Burlington, VT, checking
out the lake for Chebacco cruising.... -- Dick Burnham and the
Chebacco "Stealing Horses"
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Will Samson" <willsamson@y...> wrote:
> Hi Ed,
>
> I didn't bother with hoops on the mast and just did a line running
back and forth which worked fine. The outhaul was just a bit of
line running through the eyelet, round the end of the boom three or
four times and pulled pretty tight.
>
> The gaff connection is, as you say, in two parts. The 'throat'
part goes through holes in the gaff jaws and is tied in a bowline, or
alternatively, the loop through the jaws is spliced off and the
throat halyard is shackled onto it. The line on the gaff itself has
to be as tight as hell! The peak halyard can be fixed to this by a
shackle or a rope with a thimble on it to run up and down the line.
>
> No sexy spar stowing widgets were devised . . .
>
> The boom is heavy so no downhaul is needed as long as the weight of
the boom is on the sail. Likewise no kicking strap or vang is needed.
>
> Look forward to the launching pics!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bill Samson
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bill, and Ed,
Rigging a gaffer is dealt with in the "Odds & Ends on Sail" column in the
Duckworksmagazine.
If you Google my name, Alvan Eames, it will lead you right to it.
Rigging a gaffer is dealt with in the "Odds & Ends on Sail" column in the
Duckworksmagazine.
If you Google my name, Alvan Eames, it will lead you right to it.
> full 159 lbs of lead rather than stopping at 106), sort out the rudderI suggest making the bearings out of piece of UHWM plastic.
> cartridge and tiller (where does one find appropriate bearings
> anyway?), and pick a launch date!
Cut two square or rectangular blocks to fit the hole in the
rudder cartridge, and bore holes to fit the rudder stock.
UHMW like:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3833626424
Rudder bearings: What about running a length of copper pipe down through the
cassette sized to fit your rudder stock?
cassette sized to fit your rudder stock?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
helm sorted out. The plans call for metal bearings of some sort at
the top and bottom of the rudder cartridge, to hold the rudder post in
place, but I have no idea where to obtain the right sort of part.
If driving is an issue after your surgery, we can bring the boat to
Kingston either that weekend, the weekend of the canceled Messabout,
or the weekend after -- we'd love to go sailing in the islands before
the weather fails, and having a powered chase boat on hand would help
for photography and safety drills. Plus, the trailer and Aztek both
need Rust Check.
Last night's adventure involved moving the spars up to my seventh
floor balcony at midnight so that I can work on getting them sorted
out here in Toronto. The masts didn't fit up the fire stairs, but
luckily, I had a 110 foot spool of line on hand.... :-)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
wrote:
>Labour Day Weekend looks like the most likely time, if I can get the
> Any date on the launching, I'd love to drive down.
helm sorted out. The plans call for metal bearings of some sort at
the top and bottom of the rudder cartridge, to hold the rudder post in
place, but I have no idea where to obtain the right sort of part.
If driving is an issue after your surgery, we can bring the boat to
Kingston either that weekend, the weekend of the canceled Messabout,
or the weekend after -- we'd love to go sailing in the islands before
the weather fails, and having a powered chase boat on hand would help
for photography and safety drills. Plus, the trailer and Aztek both
need Rust Check.
Last night's adventure involved moving the spars up to my seventh
floor balcony at midnight so that I can work on getting them sorted
out here in Toronto. The masts didn't fit up the fire stairs, but
luckily, I had a 110 foot spool of line on hand.... :-)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
While the experts are paying attention, please talk to me about the
centerboard lanyard. I estimate the last couple of inches of retraction
will require an eighty pound pull ignoring any binding or friction (on the
trailer so I can also ignore flotation). Did you rig a multi-part tackle,
use a wire whip to a tackle, or just muscle it up?
Also, where would the lanyard secure on the "Cruising Conversion?" (I
considered the "polished brass pipe to the overhead" route, but there must
be a simpler way.)
Thanks,
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
centerboard lanyard. I estimate the last couple of inches of retraction
will require an eighty pound pull ignoring any binding or friction (on the
trailer so I can also ignore flotation). Did you rig a multi-part tackle,
use a wire whip to a tackle, or just muscle it up?
Also, where would the lanyard secure on the "Cruising Conversion?" (I
considered the "polished brass pipe to the overhead" route, but there must
be a simpler way.)
Thanks,
Roger
derbyrm@...
derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
Hooray, Bill Samson's come back to Bolgerland! Hi Bill! Ed -- has
Bill has answered your questions and you're at peace? If there are
still questions on rigging, I have sketches by the fellow out west on
how he rigged his boat, and recently some comments on the placing of
lines on the cuddy roof. Let me know if any of this is needed.
Incidentally, as a small note to you and Bill, I spend most days on
our Chebacco's cuddy roof (taaa daaa), now fitting on those wedge
shaped pieces for the sliding hatch. Deck all on. Upcoming big
projects: xynole cladding of deck and cuddy roof, building hollow
masts, etc. Bill, do you miss your Chebacco? You can always build
another, or is it heavy deep draft boat time for you on that stormy
Scottish coast? Ed -- just came back from Burlington, VT, checking
out the lake for Chebacco cruising.... -- Dick Burnham and the
Chebacco "Stealing Horses"
Bill has answered your questions and you're at peace? If there are
still questions on rigging, I have sketches by the fellow out west on
how he rigged his boat, and recently some comments on the placing of
lines on the cuddy roof. Let me know if any of this is needed.
Incidentally, as a small note to you and Bill, I spend most days on
our Chebacco's cuddy roof (taaa daaa), now fitting on those wedge
shaped pieces for the sliding hatch. Deck all on. Upcoming big
projects: xynole cladding of deck and cuddy roof, building hollow
masts, etc. Bill, do you miss your Chebacco? You can always build
another, or is it heavy deep draft boat time for you on that stormy
Scottish coast? Ed -- just came back from Burlington, VT, checking
out the lake for Chebacco cruising.... -- Dick Burnham and the
Chebacco "Stealing Horses"
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Will Samson" <willsamson@y...> wrote:
> Hi Ed,
>
> I didn't bother with hoops on the mast and just did a line running
back and forth which worked fine. The outhaul was just a bit of
line running through the eyelet, round the end of the boom three or
four times and pulled pretty tight.
>
> The gaff connection is, as you say, in two parts. The 'throat'
part goes through holes in the gaff jaws and is tied in a bowline, or
alternatively, the loop through the jaws is spliced off and the
throat halyard is shackled onto it. The line on the gaff itself has
to be as tight as hell! The peak halyard can be fixed to this by a
shackle or a rope with a thimble on it to run up and down the line.
>
> No sexy spar stowing widgets were devised . . .
>
> The boom is heavy so no downhaul is needed as long as the weight of
the boom is on the sail. Likewise no kicking strap or vang is needed.
>
> Look forward to the launching pics!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bill Samson
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Lacing works fine, but if you want to go with hoops, suggest you cut 1/2 " slices odd an appropriate diameter PVC pipe, sanding the edges. A lot cheaper and stronger than steam bent oak...
John T
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: Will Samson
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2004 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Chebacco Rigging
Hi Ed,
I didn't bother with hoops on the mast and just did a line running back and forth which worked fine. The outhaul was just a bit of line running through the eyelet, round the end of the boom three or four times and pulled pretty tight.
The gaff connection is, as you say, in two parts. The 'throat' part goes through holes in the gaff jaws and is tied in a bowline, or alternatively, the loop through the jaws is spliced off and the throat halyard is shackled onto it. The line on the gaff itself has to be as tight as hell! The peak halyard can be fixed to this by a shackle or a rope with a thimble on it to run up and down the line.
No sexy spar stowing widgets were devised . . .
The boom is heavy so no downhaul is needed as long as the weight of the boom is on the sail. Likewise no kicking strap or vang is needed.
Look forward to the launching pics!
Cheers,
Bill Samson
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bill! Great to hear from you! So I'm to understand that the peak halyard can slide where it will along the bridle? I had temporarily tied a loop into it and was somewhat unhappy with the less than nautical look of that arrangememt. I've just spliced a thimble into the peak halyard so if it can run along the bridle, so much the better!
I will be launching this month or be damned! By the way I've been playing the latest Jimmy Buffett CD with "Boats to Build" as the second track. I think I've found my launching tunes.
Ed
I will be launching this month or be damned! By the way I've been playing the latest Jimmy Buffett CD with "Boats to Build" as the second track. I think I've found my launching tunes.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Will Samson
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2004 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Chebacco Rigging
Hi Ed,
I didn't bother with hoops on the mast and just did a line running back and forth which worked fine. The outhaul was just a bit of line running through the eyelet, round the end of the boom three or four times and pulled pretty tight.
The gaff connection is, as you say, in two parts. The 'throat' part goes through holes in the gaff jaws and is tied in a bowline, or alternatively, the loop through the jaws is spliced off and the throat halyard is shackled onto it. The line on the gaff itself has to be as tight as hell! The peak halyard can be fixed to this by a shackle or a rope with a thimble on it to run up and down the line.
No sexy spar stowing widgets were devised . . .
The boom is heavy so no downhaul is needed as long as the weight of the boom is on the sail. Likewise no kicking strap or vang is needed.
Look forward to the launching pics!
Cheers,
Bill Samson
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Ed,
I didn't bother with hoops on the mast and just did a line running back and forth which worked fine. The outhaul was just a bit of line running through the eyelet, round the end of the boom three or four times and pulled pretty tight.
The gaff connection is, as you say, in two parts. The 'throat' part goes through holes in the gaff jaws and is tied in a bowline, or alternatively, the loop through the jaws is spliced off and the throat halyard is shackled onto it. The line on the gaff itself has to be as tight as hell! The peak halyard can be fixed to this by a shackle or a rope with a thimble on it to run up and down the line.
No sexy spar stowing widgets were devised . . .
The boom is heavy so no downhaul is needed as long as the weight of the boom is on the sail. Likewise no kicking strap or vang is needed.
Look forward to the launching pics!
Cheers,
Bill Samson
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I didn't bother with hoops on the mast and just did a line running back and forth which worked fine. The outhaul was just a bit of line running through the eyelet, round the end of the boom three or four times and pulled pretty tight.
The gaff connection is, as you say, in two parts. The 'throat' part goes through holes in the gaff jaws and is tied in a bowline, or alternatively, the loop through the jaws is spliced off and the throat halyard is shackled onto it. The line on the gaff itself has to be as tight as hell! The peak halyard can be fixed to this by a shackle or a rope with a thimble on it to run up and down the line.
No sexy spar stowing widgets were devised . . .
The boom is heavy so no downhaul is needed as long as the weight of the boom is on the sail. Likewise no kicking strap or vang is needed.
Look forward to the launching pics!
Cheers,
Bill Samson
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> For lack of better term, the line that provides the"Bridle" I think.
> attachment point for the
> gaff (attached at two places on the gaff with aloop
> somewhere about 24" from the gaff jaws).
All this talk about lacing schooner sails on spars has made me question
the Chebacco Rig. I'm planning on using mast hoops on the throat, and
using a single line with a running hitch along the gaff and boom. I've
not added any hardware for an outhaul yet so what's the Chebacco consensus
on how y'all have rigged that?
Also I'm wondering about the running rigging connection on the gaff. For
lack of better term, the line that provides tha attachment point for the
gaff (attached at two places on the gaff with aloop somewhere about 24" from the gaff jaws). I've put strap eyes on the
bottomside of the gaff and just planning on tieing this off with bowlines.
Any other ideas among the group?
Any sexy Chebacco spar stowing / carrying widgets you've designed for
travelling?
Finally the downhaul and throat halyard connection at the jaws. I'm
planning just running the bitter end through the eyes and putting a
bowline in that as well, anybody got a success or horror story to tell
about that?
Anyway Launching pics are imminent assuming I get about 3 days to finish
the odds & ends.
Ed & "Boudicea"
the Chebacco Rig. I'm planning on using mast hoops on the throat, and
using a single line with a running hitch along the gaff and boom. I've
not added any hardware for an outhaul yet so what's the Chebacco consensus
on how y'all have rigged that?
Also I'm wondering about the running rigging connection on the gaff. For
lack of better term, the line that provides tha attachment point for the
gaff (attached at two places on the gaff with aloop somewhere about 24" from the gaff jaws). I've put strap eyes on the
bottomside of the gaff and just planning on tieing this off with bowlines.
Any other ideas among the group?
Any sexy Chebacco spar stowing / carrying widgets you've designed for
travelling?
Finally the downhaul and throat halyard connection at the jaws. I'm
planning just running the bitter end through the eyes and putting a
bowline in that as well, anybody got a success or horror story to tell
about that?
Anyway Launching pics are imminent assuming I get about 3 days to finish
the odds & ends.
Ed & "Boudicea"
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Davis" <futabachan@y...> wrote:
Don't wait to finish the roll, drop it at WallyMart today and post
asap. I can't wait.
Any date on the launching, I'd love to drive down.
Bruce.
> Launch date is fast approaching!Sounds very cool Sue.
Don't wait to finish the roll, drop it at WallyMart today and post
asap. I can't wait.
Any date on the launching, I'd love to drive down.
Bruce.
> The plans don't specify how; am INo. There would be, at most, one hole at each end: one to hold the
> supposed to drill holes in the spars to pass the lacings through?
tack in place, and one for the outhaul. In fact, Bolger often shows
a toggle of some sort to tie to rather than a hole.
As for the other cringles, most any low-tech solution will do.
Individual short lengths of light stuff are good, though it can be
irritating getting them all to have the same amount of slack. Using
one long piece is also good. Think of half-hitching your way down
the spar, catching the cringles in the hitches.
Once, I caught myself wondering if shower curtain rings would be
strong enough.
The sail does not have to be held tight to the spars. Most any
method that results in a smooth curve is find. A catboat sailmaker
once suggested that having the luff fall a couple of inches behind
the mast was fine since the fat mast causes some much turbulence.
Peter
Launch date is fast approaching!
Over the weekend, in addition to refitting the Gull to use the
bored-through rowlocks that the plans specify, I also rewired the
lights on the converted Y-Flyer trailer for my "His and Her" schooner,
built and installed new bunks, and moved the boat off the front porch
and onto the trailer. Getting her off the porch let me put the masts
up for the first time, and the spars on the masts... and she now looks
like a boat.
Wow, what a beautiful design. I can see why PCB copied her for the
I60, and I'm thrilled that the bigger project will be after the same
pattern.
By a happy accident, the Y-Flyer trailer is just perfect for her --
the aft third of the keel trunk sits over the axle, which balances her
nicely, and makes her easy to manhandle but with just enough positive
tongue weight to keep her on the hitch. There's also just barely
enough room for my fiancee and I to sleep in the forward sleeping
compartment, although one can only sleep on one's side in the way of
the hatch.
I added flotation foam to the underside of the deck, and reinforced
the hull with xynole (double below the waterline, triple on the
chines), which has added enough weight to make shifting her a
four-person proposition rather than a two-person one. Given that the
original design was constrained by the desire to let the hulls be
picked up and shifted by a couple, and stacked on one trailer, there
are lots of places where scaling her up just a little now that I'm no
longer bound by those constraints would have been nice: specifically,
room for two to sleep comfortably on their sides, and enough room for
two to sit in the aft cockpit and still comfortably work the controls.
But as she is, she'll be great for an Insolent 60 trainer, or for one
to go walkabout for several weeks, two to get away for the weekend, or
three to go out for the afternoon.
I meant to put the sails up this weekend, but didn't have time, and
couldn't quite figure out how to secure them to the gaffs and booms,
or to lace them around the mast. The plans don't specify how; am I
supposed to drill holes in the spars to pass the lacings through?
Remaining tasks: finish the rigging, add shims to the bottoms of the
masts to get them to sit properly, pour the lead for the keel (since
the original design reverted to using an A-frame rather than shifting
the keel by hand, I'm planning to fill the available space with the
full 159 lbs of lead rather than stopping at 106), sort out the rudder
cartridge and tiller (where does one find appropriate bearings
anyway?), and pick a launch date!
I took some photos of the _Shrike_ with her spars up. I haven't
finished the roll yet, but I'll post the results to bolger3 when I get
the roll developed.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
Over the weekend, in addition to refitting the Gull to use the
bored-through rowlocks that the plans specify, I also rewired the
lights on the converted Y-Flyer trailer for my "His and Her" schooner,
built and installed new bunks, and moved the boat off the front porch
and onto the trailer. Getting her off the porch let me put the masts
up for the first time, and the spars on the masts... and she now looks
like a boat.
Wow, what a beautiful design. I can see why PCB copied her for the
I60, and I'm thrilled that the bigger project will be after the same
pattern.
By a happy accident, the Y-Flyer trailer is just perfect for her --
the aft third of the keel trunk sits over the axle, which balances her
nicely, and makes her easy to manhandle but with just enough positive
tongue weight to keep her on the hitch. There's also just barely
enough room for my fiancee and I to sleep in the forward sleeping
compartment, although one can only sleep on one's side in the way of
the hatch.
I added flotation foam to the underside of the deck, and reinforced
the hull with xynole (double below the waterline, triple on the
chines), which has added enough weight to make shifting her a
four-person proposition rather than a two-person one. Given that the
original design was constrained by the desire to let the hulls be
picked up and shifted by a couple, and stacked on one trailer, there
are lots of places where scaling her up just a little now that I'm no
longer bound by those constraints would have been nice: specifically,
room for two to sleep comfortably on their sides, and enough room for
two to sit in the aft cockpit and still comfortably work the controls.
But as she is, she'll be great for an Insolent 60 trainer, or for one
to go walkabout for several weeks, two to get away for the weekend, or
three to go out for the afternoon.
I meant to put the sails up this weekend, but didn't have time, and
couldn't quite figure out how to secure them to the gaffs and booms,
or to lace them around the mast. The plans don't specify how; am I
supposed to drill holes in the spars to pass the lacings through?
Remaining tasks: finish the rigging, add shims to the bottoms of the
masts to get them to sit properly, pour the lead for the keel (since
the original design reverted to using an A-frame rather than shifting
the keel by hand, I'm planning to fill the available space with the
full 159 lbs of lead rather than stopping at 106), sort out the rudder
cartridge and tiller (where does one find appropriate bearings
anyway?), and pick a launch date!
I took some photos of the _Shrike_ with her spars up. I haven't
finished the roll yet, but I'll post the results to bolger3 when I get
the roll developed.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>