Re: Latex v. marine paint?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...> wrote:
*********
>
> My can doesn't say a thing about epoxy......only fiberglass.....but
> that could be vinalester, polyester resin or several other types.(?)
Hmm, come to think of it, I could have seen "fiberglass" and mentally
translated it to "epoxy." Still, it seems to have stuck just fine to
an assortment of epoxied floatables, including a nine-year-old Frosty.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
> At the very least, the directions on the back of the can say that***********************
> it'll work just fine over epoxy if you sand the epoxy enough....
>
My can doesn't say a thing about epoxy......only fiberglass.....but
that could be vinalester, polyester resin or several other types.(?)
Jason
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...> wrote:
I've used Interlux extensively, and all my boats are epoxy-coated; the
only trouble I've had so far has been on the inside of my Gull, where
I had a patch of improperly cured epoxy.
At the very least, the directions on the back of the can say that
it'll work just fine over epoxy if you sand the epoxy enough....
--
Susan Davis <sue@...>
>Does Interlux do their own tech support, or do they contract it out?
> I already bought a gallon of interlux primer and was set, till i
> spoke to the tech people and they told me it's a no go on top of
> epoxy!
I've used Interlux extensively, and all my boats are epoxy-coated; the
only trouble I've had so far has been on the inside of my Gull, where
I had a patch of improperly cured epoxy.
At the very least, the directions on the back of the can say that
it'll work just fine over epoxy if you sand the epoxy enough....
--
Susan Davis <sue@...>
John, I agree with your paper assessment. Too often I see people
trying to economize by using paper too long to the point of ruining
their sanders pad.
Don
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John B. Trussell"
<John.Trussell@w...> wrote:
laboring with dull or clogged sandpaper is expensive, so change
paper often.
trying to economize by using paper too long to the point of ruining
their sanders pad.
Don
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John B. Trussell"
<John.Trussell@w...> wrote:
> I buy sandpaper by the sleeve, change it often, and rely on arandom orbital sander for the big work. Sand paper is cheap,
laboring with dull or clogged sandpaper is expensive, so change
paper often.
>into
> Sanding is my least favorite part of boatbuilding!
>
> John T
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jason Stancil
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, August 20, 2004 5:08 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Latex v. marine paint?
>
>
> I'm about convinced to put my money in latex and the savings
> the running rigging.if
>
> I was looking for a specific brand name that has had success. Is
> this bullseye 123 pretty common? I think i've seen it at lowes
> it's a white can with red lettering(?)mart
>
> The other brand that has been recomended was red devil from k
> but it has since been dicontinued.horses
>
> I'd like to get it primed so i never have to sand
> again.......yeah!!!!
>
>
> Thanks for everyones help.
> Jason
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snipaway
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Well my enamel paint job looks better than anything I have seen on a
house, and much better than the latex paint job I did with equal care
on the same boat,
DonB
house, and much better than the latex paint job I did with equal care
on the same boat,
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> No. Not all paints stick well to epoxy. I tried 3 or 4 before I used
> that latex primer I mentioned before. The others didn't stick well at
> all, but I can't remember which ones didn't stick except that two were
> grey and aluminum oil based. I'd say the house paint looks at least as
> good as it does on a house, so if that's good enough, use it. It does
> not look like crap unless you are one of those people who let the paint
> dry a month and then buff until you can see your face, and if you have
> livestock that eat paint pigments....
> My enamel paint job looked worse than the house paint.
>
> >dbaldnz wrote:
> >If you want to use latex on epoxy, it will stick fine like any paint,
> >providing you properly degrease the surface and sand the gloss off.
It just looks like crap in comparison with an enamel job.snip
> >
> >
I buy sandpaper by the sleeve, change it often, and rely on a random orbital sander for the big work. Sand paper is cheap, laboring with dull or clogged sandpaper is expensive, so change paper often.
Sanding is my least favorite part of boatbuilding!
John T
Sanding is my least favorite part of boatbuilding!
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Stancil
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2004 5:08 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Latex v. marine paint?
I'm about convinced to put my money in latex and the savings into
the running rigging.
I was looking for a specific brand name that has had success. Is
this bullseye 123 pretty common? I think i've seen it at lowes if
it's a white can with red lettering(?)
The other brand that has been recomended was red devil from k mart
but it has since been dicontinued.
I'd like to get it primed so i never have to sand
again.......yeah!!!!
Thanks for everyones help.
Jason
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> this bullseye 123 pretty common? I think i've seen it at lowes ifI am not into fancy paint jobs like some people,
> it's a white can with red lettering(?)
but that Bullseye 1-2-3 is really opaque with
excellent adhesion. I like it a lot.
I have even used it once with success to cover
up a sticky mess goof, where I mixed
epoxy wrong.
It is also called Zinsser.
In their literature System Three says, in effect, "We used to recommend
paint brands that were compatible with our epoxy, but between the EPA and
the NTSB and the imports and 'improvements' we couldn't keep up. Test it
yourself or buy from System Three." (Or West System or ... )
On the dinghy I used Sherman-Williams primer and Porch & Deck Enamel. I
didn't do the proper prep work and it was many months before I could look at
it hard without peeling off a patch. Now, eight years later, it's tough and
rugged. (And much too white and bright!)
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
paint brands that were compatible with our epoxy, but between the EPA and
the NTSB and the imports and 'improvements' we couldn't keep up. Test it
yourself or buy from System Three." (Or West System or ... )
On the dinghy I used Sherman-Williams primer and Porch & Deck Enamel. I
didn't do the proper prep work and it was many months before I could look at
it hard without peeling off a patch. Now, eight years later, it's tough and
rugged. (And much too white and bright!)
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@...>
> I was looking for a specific brand name that has had success. Is
> this bullseye 123 pretty common? I think i've seen it at lowes if
> it's a white can with red lettering(?)
>
> The other brand that has been recomended was red devil from k mart
> but it has since been dicontinued.
I'm about convinced to put my money in latex and the savings into
the running rigging.
I was looking for a specific brand name that has had success. Is
this bullseye 123 pretty common? I think i've seen it at lowes if
it's a white can with red lettering(?)
The other brand that has been recomended was red devil from k mart
but it has since been dicontinued.
I'd like to get it primed so i never have to sand
again.......yeah!!!!
Thanks for everyones help.
Jason
the running rigging.
I was looking for a specific brand name that has had success. Is
this bullseye 123 pretty common? I think i've seen it at lowes if
it's a white can with red lettering(?)
The other brand that has been recomended was red devil from k mart
but it has since been dicontinued.
I'd like to get it primed so i never have to sand
again.......yeah!!!!
Thanks for everyones help.
Jason
By the way Yes they are now probably covering their arses. I spent a
lot of time with Interlux tech support and they were supportive. The
bottom line is wash off amine blush religiously and before sanding.
After washing, sand. Gougeons brothers have done testing of latex
paints over epoxy I think. They have tested epoxy over stains, and I
believe they have done some testing of Bullseye123.
Bob Chamberland
lot of time with Interlux tech support and they were supportive. The
bottom line is wash off amine blush religiously and before sanding.
After washing, sand. Gougeons brothers have done testing of latex
paints over epoxy I think. They have tested epoxy over stains, and I
believe they have done some testing of Bullseye123.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...> wrote:
> I've used Interthane Plus, Brightside, Easypoxy, and Sears
> > Latex. All over epoxy. All were successful.
> ******************************
> That's wierd. I've got a can of brightside primer in the basement
> and i called the # on the side of the can as it had no directions
> for use over epoxy................they told me it won't work. Are
> they just covering their arse's? you just sand and apply with 303
> brushing thinner as the can suggests?
> Thanks,
> Jason
I should probably mention that I've had failures enough to have a nice
bit of experience.
My last experience with Brightside was the finishing of my Bobcat. The
bottom is VC17, topsides dark blue Brightside and the deck is Sears
housepaint. The topsides are a typical brush applied paint job. I used
Brightside primer and the topsides are totally successful. The deck is
another story. Originally I used Brightside primer over the epoxy
coated deck. Then I finished with "tan" Brightside enamel. The boat
was outside. When I went out the next morning the deck had a nice
little blister under every drop of condensation. These were pinhead
sized. The verdict was first that the primer takes longer to dry
thoroughly secondly the directions on the can say to sand to
"translucense". This means to sand almost all of the primer off then
finish coat. Instead I sanded everything off, primed with Bullseye123
and finished with Sears housepaint. There have been no problems.
I have a Nereia pram that has been sittin out in the yard upside down
for years except when it was not in the water. It is totally epoxy
coated. It was finished with Brightside primer directly over the epoxy
and finished with Brightside. There a plenty of scuff marks and other
wear but there has been abslolutely no problems with adhesion.
When I refinished my Hawkeye I sanded all of the paint down to the
Interthane barrier coat and took most of that off too. I primed with
Bullseye123 and finished with Sears "best" housepaint on the deck and
topsides. The cockpit is Douglasfir marine ply and was badly checked.
I removed all paint down to the epoxy, and then glassed it. I washed
thoroughly and finished with Bullseye 123 and Sears porch paint. It
took a long time to dry thoroughly and until it was dry it would
scrape easily but it is sound enough now.
Tech support at Interlux told me that Brightside primer has micro
balloons and that they will attract moisture, especially if the primer
is not sanded to "translucence".
Latex is not without problems especially when used on decks. The
flatter the paint the worse it scuffs. That is why I will go to the
next level of gloss with my Camp Skiff now under construction. But in
any case it's a cinch to refinish.
Bob Chamberland
bit of experience.
My last experience with Brightside was the finishing of my Bobcat. The
bottom is VC17, topsides dark blue Brightside and the deck is Sears
housepaint. The topsides are a typical brush applied paint job. I used
Brightside primer and the topsides are totally successful. The deck is
another story. Originally I used Brightside primer over the epoxy
coated deck. Then I finished with "tan" Brightside enamel. The boat
was outside. When I went out the next morning the deck had a nice
little blister under every drop of condensation. These were pinhead
sized. The verdict was first that the primer takes longer to dry
thoroughly secondly the directions on the can say to sand to
"translucense". This means to sand almost all of the primer off then
finish coat. Instead I sanded everything off, primed with Bullseye123
and finished with Sears housepaint. There have been no problems.
I have a Nereia pram that has been sittin out in the yard upside down
for years except when it was not in the water. It is totally epoxy
coated. It was finished with Brightside primer directly over the epoxy
and finished with Brightside. There a plenty of scuff marks and other
wear but there has been abslolutely no problems with adhesion.
When I refinished my Hawkeye I sanded all of the paint down to the
Interthane barrier coat and took most of that off too. I primed with
Bullseye123 and finished with Sears "best" housepaint on the deck and
topsides. The cockpit is Douglasfir marine ply and was badly checked.
I removed all paint down to the epoxy, and then glassed it. I washed
thoroughly and finished with Bullseye 123 and Sears porch paint. It
took a long time to dry thoroughly and until it was dry it would
scrape easily but it is sound enough now.
Tech support at Interlux told me that Brightside primer has micro
balloons and that they will attract moisture, especially if the primer
is not sanded to "translucence".
Latex is not without problems especially when used on decks. The
flatter the paint the worse it scuffs. That is why I will go to the
next level of gloss with my Camp Skiff now under construction. But in
any case it's a cinch to refinish.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...> wrote:
> I've used Interthane Plus, Brightside, Easypoxy, and Sears
> > Latex. All over epoxy. All were successful.
> ******************************
> That's wierd. I've got a can of brightside primer in the basement
> and i called the # on the side of the can as it had no directions
> for use over epoxy................they told me it won't work. Are
> they just covering their arse's? you just sand and apply with 303
> brushing thinner as the can suggests?
> Thanks,
> Jason
No. Not all paints stick well to epoxy. I tried 3 or 4 before I used
that latex primer I mentioned before. The others didn't stick well at
all, but I can't remember which ones didn't stick except that two were
grey and aluminum oil based. I'd say the house paint looks at least as
good as it does on a house, so if that's good enough, use it. It does
not look like crap unless you are one of those people who let the paint
dry a month and then buff until you can see your face, and if you have
livestock that eat paint pigments....
My enamel paint job looked worse than the house paint.
that latex primer I mentioned before. The others didn't stick well at
all, but I can't remember which ones didn't stick except that two were
grey and aluminum oil based. I'd say the house paint looks at least as
good as it does on a house, so if that's good enough, use it. It does
not look like crap unless you are one of those people who let the paint
dry a month and then buff until you can see your face, and if you have
livestock that eat paint pigments....
My enamel paint job looked worse than the house paint.
>dbaldnz wrote:
>If you want to use latex on epoxy, it will stick fine like any paint,
>providing you properly degrease the surface and sand the gloss off. It just looks like crap in comparison with an enamel job.snip
>
>
I've had very good luck on boats stored outside for a couple of years so
far with California Paints Troubleshooter acrylic latex primer over
epoxy. Assuming you wash off the blush, and maybe scuff up, though I
don't know if that's really necessary, it sticks tenaciously and dries
pretty hard and quickly for a latex paint. After a few days I'd need a
chisel to get it off the epoxy. Then of course I put something else over
it, oil based aluminum paint in one case and a cheapo latex exterior in
the other. Sometimes the other paints scratch off and leave just the
primer. I was very impressed with this paint. I tested the aluminum
paint directly on the epoxy and it was lousy, but it was very slow
drying so maybe I didn't wait long enough. I would guess that a lot of
other acrylic latex paints would stick ok, and I wonder if maybe the
primer isn't necessary. But I don't have experience with that.
far with California Paints Troubleshooter acrylic latex primer over
epoxy. Assuming you wash off the blush, and maybe scuff up, though I
don't know if that's really necessary, it sticks tenaciously and dries
pretty hard and quickly for a latex paint. After a few days I'd need a
chisel to get it off the epoxy. Then of course I put something else over
it, oil based aluminum paint in one case and a cheapo latex exterior in
the other. Sometimes the other paints scratch off and leave just the
primer. I was very impressed with this paint. I tested the aluminum
paint directly on the epoxy and it was lousy, but it was very slow
drying so maybe I didn't wait long enough. I would guess that a lot of
other acrylic latex paints would stick ok, and I wonder if maybe the
primer isn't necessary. But I don't have experience with that.
>Jason Stancil wrote:
>snip
>I've used latex on bare plywood and it did ok and i've used single
>part urathane marine paint on 2 glass boats. I've used neither over
>epoxy. Doe's anyone make a exterior latex that will stick to epoxy?
>Recomendations? I'm going to be rolling the stuff on above the
>waterline and brushing the hard to reach spots. The bottom paint
>(homemade coperpoxy) is done.
>snip
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
Brightside polyurethane over it. And it is still holding after 10
years or more.
Your mail is in the mail:-)
Cheers, Nels
wrote:
> I've used Interthane Plus, Brightside, Easypoxy, and SearsI am sure that Peter Lenihan used the same primer on Lestat, and used
> > Latex. All over epoxy. All were successful.
> ******************************
> That's wierd. I've got a can of brightside primer in the basement
> and i called the # on the side of the can as it had no directions
> for use over epoxy................they told me it won't work. Are
> they just covering their arse's? you just sand and apply with 303
> brushing thinner as the can suggests?
> Thanks,
> Jason
Brightside polyurethane over it. And it is still holding after 10
years or more.
Your mail is in the mail:-)
Cheers, Nels
I've used Interthane Plus, Brightside, Easypoxy, and Sears
That's wierd. I've got a can of brightside primer in the basement
and i called the # on the side of the can as it had no directions
for use over epoxy................they told me it won't work. Are
they just covering their arse's? you just sand and apply with 303
brushing thinner as the can suggests?
Thanks,
Jason
> Latex. All over epoxy. All were successful.******************************
That's wierd. I've got a can of brightside primer in the basement
and i called the # on the side of the can as it had no directions
for use over epoxy................they told me it won't work. Are
they just covering their arse's? you just sand and apply with 303
brushing thinner as the can suggests?
Thanks,
Jason
Hi Jason, I've used Interthane Plus, Brightside, Easypoxy, and Sears
Latex. All over epoxy. All were successful.
Interthane plus (white) was the best looking and most durable finish
of them all. However when it came to repair it meant a $30 can of
paint for touchup. That hurts. Brightside and Easypoxy faded and the
gloss wasn't as brilliant as I-plus. I was going to use Kirby for my
Hawkeye refinish but opted instead to try latex. The essential visual
difference betweeen I-plus and Latex is the gloss. If you want a
durable HI GLOSS finish then you want I-plus. However if you want a
semi-gloss similar to Kirby then latex will do the job. I used the
"best" Sears latex house paint. They offer 4 ranges of gloss. I chose
the next from flat. With my current project I will use the next
glossier from that. Buy the best latex. It's still cheap compared to
marine finishes. Gloss can be a devil if you haven't done a meticulous
prep job. Semi gloss will not show the nicks and prep mistakes near as
much. Latex is a good durable finish and the color pallette is almost
unlimited. My Hawkeye has the epoxy intercoat-Interthane 404 I think
it was, but well sanded for the latex job and primed with Bullseye
123. Above all read the directions on the can. And secondly any of
these paints take a lot longer to cure fully than you might expect.
You absolutely have to clean off every trace of amine blush and it
should have been done before sanding.
Bob Chamberland
Latex. All over epoxy. All were successful.
Interthane plus (white) was the best looking and most durable finish
of them all. However when it came to repair it meant a $30 can of
paint for touchup. That hurts. Brightside and Easypoxy faded and the
gloss wasn't as brilliant as I-plus. I was going to use Kirby for my
Hawkeye refinish but opted instead to try latex. The essential visual
difference betweeen I-plus and Latex is the gloss. If you want a
durable HI GLOSS finish then you want I-plus. However if you want a
semi-gloss similar to Kirby then latex will do the job. I used the
"best" Sears latex house paint. They offer 4 ranges of gloss. I chose
the next from flat. With my current project I will use the next
glossier from that. Buy the best latex. It's still cheap compared to
marine finishes. Gloss can be a devil if you haven't done a meticulous
prep job. Semi gloss will not show the nicks and prep mistakes near as
much. Latex is a good durable finish and the color pallette is almost
unlimited. My Hawkeye has the epoxy intercoat-Interthane 404 I think
it was, but well sanded for the latex job and primed with Bullseye
123. Above all read the directions on the can. And secondly any of
these paints take a lot longer to cure fully than you might expect.
You absolutely have to clean off every trace of amine blush and it
should have been done before sanding.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...> wrote:
> I've got the exterior of my micro about as good as i'm going to get
> it without another 40 hrs. of sanding. So as i fiddle with the
> little stuff i need to start thinking paint.
>
> I've used latex on bare plywood and it did ok and i've used single
> part urathane marine paint on 2 glass boats. I've used neither over
> epoxy. Doe's anyone make a exterior latex that will stick to epoxy?
> Recomendations? I'm going to be rolling the stuff on above the
> waterline and brushing the hard to reach spots. The bottom paint
> (homemade coperpoxy) is done.
>
> I already bought a gallon of interlux primer and was set, till i
> spoke to the tech people and they told me it's a no go on top of
> epoxy! The west marine folks i bought it from said they would refund
> my money.
>
> As my finacial resources are tight and my level of finish (20' job)
> is set, i'm now looking at cheapo porch paint.
>
> Thanks,
> Jason
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:
Jason -
I used a semi-gloss oil based paint from Kirby Paint Co. In New
Bedford. I was very happy with the results. It stuck to the epoxy
glass very well, was easy to apply, and the finish was first class.
The semi-gloss does not show the imperfections as much as a gloss
coat.
I would use a non-skid for the cockpit and deck next time...
David Jost
If you want to use latex on epoxy, it will stick fine like any paint,
providing you properly degrease the surface and sand the gloss off.
It just looks like crap in comparison with an enamel job. I did Oink
with latex on epoxy(the blue color), and when I had finished, I sanded
it all off again.(nothing to do with epoxy) There is no comparison in
standard of finish. Depends what you want,
DonB
http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
providing you properly degrease the surface and sand the gloss off.
It just looks like crap in comparison with an enamel job. I did Oink
with latex on epoxy(the blue color), and when I had finished, I sanded
it all off again.(nothing to do with epoxy) There is no comparison in
standard of finish. Depends what you want,
DonB
http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...> wrote:
> I've got the exterior of my micro about as good as i'm going to get
> it without another 40 hrs. of sanding. So as i fiddle with the
> little stuff i need to start thinking paint.
>
> I've used latex on bare plywood and it did ok and i've used single
> part urathane marine paint on 2 glass boats. I've used neither over
> epoxy. Doe's anyone make a exterior latex that will stick to epoxy?
> Recomendations? I'm going to be rolling the stuff on above the
> waterline and brushing the hard to reach spots. The bottom paint
> (homemade coperpoxy) is done.
>
> I already bought a gallon of interlux primer and was set, till i
> spoke to the tech people and they told me it's a no go on top of
> epoxy! The west marine folks i bought it from said they would refund
> my money.
>
> As my finacial resources are tight and my level of finish (20' job)
> is set, i'm now looking at cheapo porch paint.
>
> Thanks,
> Jason
Jason--I built a plywood dinghy about 5 years ago using epoxy over okume. I sanded it well and painted it with Homequarters latex primer and HQ latex exterior semi-gloss. The boat has been used a lot and lives under a tarp on a trailer. Every now and again, the tarp dies and I find a fair amount of water in the boat. So far, the paint is holding up and I don't have any rot problems. There are other solutions and they may work better, but the paint products I used work for me.
John T
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Stancil
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2004 5:51 PM
Subject: [bolger] Latex v. marine paint?
I've got the exterior of my micro about as good as i'm going to get
it without another 40 hrs. of sanding. So as i fiddle with the
little stuff i need to start thinking paint.
I've used latex on bare plywood and it did ok and i've used single
part urathane marine paint on 2 glass boats. I've used neither over
epoxy. Doe's anyone make a exterior latex that will stick to epoxy?
Recomendations? I'm going to be rolling the stuff on above the
waterline and brushing the hard to reach spots. The bottom paint
(homemade coperpoxy) is done.
I already bought a gallon of interlux primer and was set, till i
spoke to the tech people and they told me it's a no go on top of
epoxy! The west marine folks i bought it from said they would refund
my money.
As my finacial resources are tight and my level of finish (20' job)
is set, i'm now looking at cheapo porch paint.
Thanks,
Jason
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I've got the exterior of my micro about as good as i'm going to get
it without another 40 hrs. of sanding. So as i fiddle with the
little stuff i need to start thinking paint.
I've used latex on bare plywood and it did ok and i've used single
part urathane marine paint on 2 glass boats. I've used neither over
epoxy. Doe's anyone make a exterior latex that will stick to epoxy?
Recomendations? I'm going to be rolling the stuff on above the
waterline and brushing the hard to reach spots. The bottom paint
(homemade coperpoxy) is done.
I already bought a gallon of interlux primer and was set, till i
spoke to the tech people and they told me it's a no go on top of
epoxy! The west marine folks i bought it from said they would refund
my money.
As my finacial resources are tight and my level of finish (20' job)
is set, i'm now looking at cheapo porch paint.
Thanks,
Jason
it without another 40 hrs. of sanding. So as i fiddle with the
little stuff i need to start thinking paint.
I've used latex on bare plywood and it did ok and i've used single
part urathane marine paint on 2 glass boats. I've used neither over
epoxy. Doe's anyone make a exterior latex that will stick to epoxy?
Recomendations? I'm going to be rolling the stuff on above the
waterline and brushing the hard to reach spots. The bottom paint
(homemade coperpoxy) is done.
I already bought a gallon of interlux primer and was set, till i
spoke to the tech people and they told me it's a no go on top of
epoxy! The west marine folks i bought it from said they would refund
my money.
As my finacial resources are tight and my level of finish (20' job)
is set, i'm now looking at cheapo porch paint.
Thanks,
Jason