Re: Paint below waterline - epoxy sanding-scraping
Another cheap solution is to turn an old rusty hand saw into a
number of cabinet scrapers. break off a chunk of saw, and then
sharpen the rough edge with a file, then run a round chunk of steel
over the edge to create a burr. It works very well and is free.
Happy building
David Jost
number of cabinet scrapers. break off a chunk of saw, and then
sharpen the rough edge with a file, then run a round chunk of steel
over the edge to create a burr. It works very well and is free.
Happy building
David Jost
Amazing eh?
The xynole or dynel gives you the abrasion resistance,
the graphite's job is a lubricant.. Your boat will
slip off or over the rocks before the xynole gives..
Or at least I hope it does....
A dozen years ago a friend made a pair of test panels
of 1/2" ply about 18" square. One covered with 6 oz
glass cloth and three coats of epoxy and one
xynole/graphite but only two coats epoxy. He glued a
cinderblock to the top iof each and with a rope tied
to them we drug them down the paved street with my
pickup. After going around the block the glassed
plywood looked horrible while the xynole/graphite was
ok. Not perfect, but good enough that I'm a convert. I
wish I took photos... Maybe someone out there could do
a more scientific test?
Rick
--- GarthAB <garth@...> wrote:
The xynole or dynel gives you the abrasion resistance,
the graphite's job is a lubricant.. Your boat will
slip off or over the rocks before the xynole gives..
Or at least I hope it does....
A dozen years ago a friend made a pair of test panels
of 1/2" ply about 18" square. One covered with 6 oz
glass cloth and three coats of epoxy and one
xynole/graphite but only two coats epoxy. He glued a
cinderblock to the top iof each and with a rope tied
to them we drug them down the paved street with my
pickup. After going around the block the glassed
plywood looked horrible while the xynole/graphite was
ok. Not perfect, but good enough that I'm a convert. I
wish I took photos... Maybe someone out there could do
a more scientific test?
Rick
--- GarthAB <garth@...> wrote:
> I had heard so much about the abrasion-resistant
> properties of
> graphite that when I took my belt sander with some
> 50-grit paper to
> my boat yesterday, I feared it would simply bounce
> off. But a nice
> new belt took the stuff off like magic.
I've also had good luck with a Sandvik carbide scraper--about $20 last time I looked. This tool works well for knocking down the ridge on the edges of fg tape and removing runs or puddles.
John T
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Magen
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 8:08 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Paint below waterline - epoxy sanding-scraping
Garth & Linc,
I definitely agree that heavy sanding of epoxy is a toil. However, if
you have to remove a LOT of 'humps, bumps, & errors' - the 'Green Stage'
{while it's a bit 'soft'} is almost a joy . . . with the RIGHT tool !!
This may not help you THIS time, but for future endeavors . . . Get a
couple of Stanley 'Surform' tools. They come in several variations, with
the same principle. I have all of them - they are certainly cheap
enough. The 'working part' looks like a section of a 'cheese grater'. It
is held in a handle that functions as a Flat File, 'Rat Tail' file,
Bench Plane{flat or scrubbing}, or a Block Plane.
When the epoxy is at the stage that it almost instantly clogs sandpaper,
or 'balls up' - this is when these 'blades' really shine. They produce
'strands' like you see when grating hard cheese. And work QUICK. Also
clean easily. After you're done with the epoxy - use it on a chunk of
soft pine scrap, or scrub it with a cheap wire brush. In addition, while
the 'blade' part can be sharpened with a regular file - it is easily
replaceable in the different 'holders'.
While these tools are cheap, there is another - similar - brand/type
that is made of Stainless Steel and very expensive. While we are talking
about epoxy, these tools are also extremely useful for shaping wood -
their original use.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
> Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 09:58:42 -0400
> From: Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@...>
> Subject: Re: Paint below waterline?
>
> If it's been only a few days, get out there and scrape the bumps off
> while you can. . . .Sanding after scraping is much
> less work.
SNIP
In a pinch, you can remove the blade from a hand plane and scrape with
> that, assuming you can sharpen it easily. THe corallary is that
sanding
> within a few days is messy and frustrating with the epoxy still a
little
> soft.
>
> >GarthAB wrote:
> >SNIP
> >
> >Postscript to this is that I really bollixed the bottom finish.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I had heard so much about the abrasion-resistant properties of
graphite that when I took my belt sander with some 50-grit paper to
my boat yesterday, I feared it would simply bounce off. But a nice
new belt took the stuff off like magic. A few more disgusting hours
of spewing black filth all over myself, and it should be all set.
But let this be a lesson -- never run aground on a pile of 50-grit
sandpaper. . . .
All best,
Garth
graphite that when I took my belt sander with some 50-grit paper to
my boat yesterday, I feared it would simply bounce off. But a nice
new belt took the stuff off like magic. A few more disgusting hours
of spewing black filth all over myself, and it should be all set.
But let this be a lesson -- never run aground on a pile of 50-grit
sandpaper. . . .
All best,
Garth
Garth & Linc,
I definitely agree that heavy sanding of epoxy is a toil. However, if
you have to remove a LOT of 'humps, bumps, & errors' - the 'Green Stage'
{while it's a bit 'soft'} is almost a joy . . . with the RIGHT tool !!
This may not help you THIS time, but for future endeavors . . . Get a
couple of Stanley 'Surform' tools. They come in several variations, with
the same principle. I have all of them - they are certainly cheap
enough. The 'working part' looks like a section of a 'cheese grater'. It
is held in a handle that functions as a Flat File, 'Rat Tail' file,
Bench Plane{flat or scrubbing}, or a Block Plane.
When the epoxy is at the stage that it almost instantly clogs sandpaper,
or 'balls up' - this is when these 'blades' really shine. They produce
'strands' like you see when grating hard cheese. And work QUICK. Also
clean easily. After you're done with the epoxy - use it on a chunk of
soft pine scrap, or scrub it with a cheap wire brush. In addition, while
the 'blade' part can be sharpened with a regular file - it is easily
replaceable in the different 'holders'.
While these tools are cheap, there is another - similar - brand/type
that is made of Stainless Steel and very expensive. While we are talking
about epoxy, these tools are also extremely useful for shaping wood -
their original use.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
In a pinch, you can remove the blade from a hand plane and scrape with
I definitely agree that heavy sanding of epoxy is a toil. However, if
you have to remove a LOT of 'humps, bumps, & errors' - the 'Green Stage'
{while it's a bit 'soft'} is almost a joy . . . with the RIGHT tool !!
This may not help you THIS time, but for future endeavors . . . Get a
couple of Stanley 'Surform' tools. They come in several variations, with
the same principle. I have all of them - they are certainly cheap
enough. The 'working part' looks like a section of a 'cheese grater'. It
is held in a handle that functions as a Flat File, 'Rat Tail' file,
Bench Plane{flat or scrubbing}, or a Block Plane.
When the epoxy is at the stage that it almost instantly clogs sandpaper,
or 'balls up' - this is when these 'blades' really shine. They produce
'strands' like you see when grating hard cheese. And work QUICK. Also
clean easily. After you're done with the epoxy - use it on a chunk of
soft pine scrap, or scrub it with a cheap wire brush. In addition, while
the 'blade' part can be sharpened with a regular file - it is easily
replaceable in the different 'holders'.
While these tools are cheap, there is another - similar - brand/type
that is made of Stainless Steel and very expensive. While we are talking
about epoxy, these tools are also extremely useful for shaping wood -
their original use.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
> Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 09:58:42 -0400SNIP
> From: Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@...>
> Subject: Re: Paint below waterline?
>
> If it's been only a few days, get out there and scrape the bumps off
> while you can. . . .Sanding after scraping is much
> less work.
In a pinch, you can remove the blade from a hand plane and scrape with
> that, assuming you can sharpen it easily. THe corallary is thatsanding
> within a few days is messy and frustrating with the epoxy still alittle
> soft.
>
> >GarthAB wrote:
> >SNIP
> >
> >Postscript to this is that I really bollixed the bottom finish.